A20 LEE My New Daily..

[chargedupstorm 0]

Didn't want to let out who my friend with an R32 with a turbo kit on order was But yes its Guy!

 

Friend I'd prefer to say fellow portly squire acquaintance ;-)

[biggerbigben 0]

Didn't want to let out who my friend with an R32 with a turbo kit on order was But yes its Guy!

 

Friend I'd prefer to say fellow portly squire acquaintance ;-)

 

:lol: very good!

[A20 LEE 0]

The thing is about the HGP stuff is that its good quality to a degree but don't you think its so over priced?! I say get a turbo on yours sharpish as you will love it but do your research first. Would you get dubsport to do it for you or will you tackle the install yourself? Also I wonder how the 4x4 is handling the power on that 480bhp C and how much time it spends at dubsport! As I said before I'm a big fan of VR6's and I wouldn't be suprised if my 20vt engine is changed soon :wink: Oh and yes I would love a ride in yours when its done Lee, obviously I'll come up in mine and I'll take you out to experience some 4x4 action :D

 

The advantage with the HGP kit is install time is 2 1/2 days compared to 3 weeks. I'm certainly going to take plenty of time with the engine build as i've got fed up of rushing to finish the car for the next show and i don't feel i have too any more as there nothing more i can accomplish with it. The turbo conversion is straight forward, dubsport will be doing most of the conversion but i'll be sorting the hoses, stainless piping (don't want samco and jubilee clips everywhere), possible making my own manifold if i don't go for the HGP and all the prep which i've already started.

 

Dubsport haven't had any problems i've heard about with the 4x4. Sure you've seen the bronze mk2 at just about every dragstrip show this year and its running 458bhp. Seems bulletproof if it can handle that kind of abuse every other weekend. Dubsport so seem to get alot of flack but all there cars are still running on the scene and their as wild as it gets mechanically.

[A20 LEE 0]

The 480 bhp car lives at Dubsport as opposed to it keep coming back in with problems,as it was for sale but it now has a new owner who intends to use it as his daily driver.Its now on 15" Schmidt TH line splits and road legal slicks.

 

Oh right, so its currently living at dubsport until its fixed then the new owner hopes to use it daily.. ?? 15" wheels with that camber at the rear must look interesting :)

 

Now sold to Nick Hosker, owner of the Mk1 VR6T for a sickening low price.

[A20 LEE 0]

I've had trouble communicating with EIP, but at least they no longer seem to bounce all UK originated e-mails as suspected SPAM which is good news and saves on the phone bills.

I dealt with Mike in the end so far have nothing to complain about, that is providing I see my kit in the next 2 weeks! - Ordered over a month ago.

 

Compared to the HGP/HPA kit the EIP turbo kit is far neater on the R32 anyway.. not to mention the saving of over £2k.

Interesting to see what you are going for Lee, i toyed with turbo'ing the Corrado as it was already up for more forced induction with the forged pistons. But now that the engine side of things are very reliable I opted for R32 fun! ;-)

 

As soon as I've got the kit installed and running on their map (have to send my ECU to the states for bench mapping) I'll probably be visiting AmD for a reliable map and detailed figures.

 

:shock: , VR6S and an R32T. You a very lucky man Guy!! Did you fit the rear VF engine mount? H8RRA complained about the vibration and Jeff at Dubsport mentioned that a VF/VT rear mount makes it feel like theres something wrong with the car.

[chargedupstorm 0]

Shocked , VR6S and an R32T. You a very lucky man Guy!! Did you fit the rear VF engine mount? H8RRA complained about the vibration and Jeff at Dubsport mentioned that a VF/VT rear mount makes it feel like theres something wrong with the car.

 

Thanks I guess without problems I will be a lucky chap ;-)

 

No i've only got the front VF mount now, reverted the rear and gearbox mounts back to OEM items because of the what Jeff mentioned.

[biggerbigben 0]

The thing is about the HGP stuff is that its good quality to a degree but don't you think its so over priced?! I say get a turbo on yours sharpish as you will love it but do your research first. Would you get dubsport to do it for you or will you tackle the install yourself? Also I wonder how the 4x4 is handling the power on that 480bhp C and how much time it spends at dubsport! As I said before I'm a big fan of VR6's and I wouldn't be suprised if my 20vt engine is changed soon :wink: Oh and yes I would love a ride in yours when its done Lee, obviously I'll come up in mine and I'll take you out to experience some 4x4 action :D

 

The advantage with the HGP kit is install time is 2 1/2 days compared to 3 weeks. I'm certainly going to take plenty of time with the engine build as i've got fed up of rushing to finish the car for the next show and i don't feel i have too any more as there nothing more i can accomplish with it. The turbo conversion is straight forward, dubsport will be doing most of the conversion but i'll be sorting the hoses, stainless piping (don't want samco and jubilee clips everywhere), possible making my own manifold if i don't go for the HGP and all the prep which i've already started.

 

Dubsport haven't had any problems i've heard about with the 4x4. Sure you've seen the bronze mk2 at just about every dragstrip show this year and its running 458bhp. Seems bulletproof if it can handle that kind of abuse every other weekend. Dubsport so seem to get alot of flack but all there cars are still running on the scene and their as wild as it gets mechanically.

 

I know Carl very well (the chap who owns the bronze mk2), I speak to him most weeks and although the 4x4 is holding up at the mo he has had his fair share of problems! Think he is on his 3rd rear diff and the dog box has been rebuilt once I think, maybe a few other bits?? So I'm sure if the 4x4 C has had problems they wouldn't be blagging about it too much :)

 

With regards to your conversion... go for it! what sort of power are you looking for? i.e. will you be using a spacer or replacing the pistons etc ??

 

B

[A20 LEE 0]

 

With regards to your conversion... go for it! what sort of power are you looking for? i.e. will you be using a spacer or replacing the pistons etc ??

 

B

 

Power isn't really the aim, but the DS kit is rated at 325bhp/377lbft with a spacer plate. I asked about pistons but Jeff didn't think they were worth the additional expense as i'm not aiming for massive bhp. I want more torque but the quality of the install and reliablity are my main goals. I'm changing jobs soon and will get the use of a Mitsubishi Animal so i don't have to worry about the C being off the road and can turn it into a proper showcar which is what i've alway wanted to do with it.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

325bhp with 377 pounds of torque is a potential 170-180mph car with the right gearing :-)

 

377 pounds is borderline pushing the drivetrain over the edge. There are CV cage and driveshaft strengthening options available.

 

So long as the spacer is good quality, you should be OK. My preferred method would be to machine blank small end bearings 1mm offset to drop the C&R to 8.5:1 and use a standard steel head gasket from VW. I used that method on my 16V Turbo to good effect, did about 50,000 trouble free miles in it before I sold it on. That of course does mean an engine out job, but it's a good oppurtunity to do the chains and rehone the bores, clean up the head, relap the valves in etc etc. If a job is worth doing, do it properly.

 

I think your approach is a good one, sensible, usable power and torque with the reliability. Focus on keeping the motor cool. Fit a Neuspeed rad switch (lower trigger temps), wire up speed 3 to a dash switch to combat heat soak after a hard thrape, sling some Redline water wetter in and enjoy.

 

You will of course be needing that Sprinter IC and Aquamist.

 

Get your engine mounts sorted, if not already done and some ATB goodness (bolts the diff in the process, the achilles heel of the 020 and 02A) and you'll have a daily useable, tractable car.

[H8RRA 0]

Shocked , VR6S and an R32T. You a very lucky man Guy!! Did you fit the rear VF engine mount? H8RRA complained about the vibration and Jeff at Dubsport mentioned that a VF/VT rear mount makes it feel like theres something wrong with the car.

 

Thanks I guess without problems I will be a lucky chap ;-)

 

No i've only got the front VF mount now, reverted the rear and gearbox mounts back to OEM items because of the what Jeff mentioned.

went backto oem and would not refit a rear mount - the difference is ludicrous

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Fit a Vibratechnics rear (fast road) Paul.

 

Mind you, it's not so critical with you as you cut your carbon canister hole out, a rear does make a worthy difference though and the rubber Vibra doesn't affect refinement at all.

 

I have VT front and rear and the CC hole is standard size with no fouling. I might try the competition insert when the front lets go.

[H8RRA 0]

my canister hole is unmolested, kev - you saying i've got a baggy hole!?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

:-) Nosky said you hogged out your CC hole? If you have a tight hole I stand corrected :-)

[A20 LEE 0]

325bhp with 377 pounds of torque is a potential 170-180mph car with the right gearing :-)

 

377 pounds is borderline pushing the drivetrain over the edge. There are CV cage and driveshaft strengthening options available.

 

So long as the spacer is good quality, you should be OK. My preferred method would be to machine blank small end bearings 1mm offset to drop the C&R to 8.5:1 and use a standard steel head gasket from VW. I used that method on my 16V Turbo to good effect, did about 50,000 trouble free miles in it before I sold it on. That of course does mean an engine out job, but it's a good oppurtunity to do the chains and rehone the bores, clean up the head, relap the valves in etc etc. If a job is worth doing, do it properly.

 

I think your approach is a good one, sensible, usable power and torque with the reliability. Focus on keeping the motor cool. Fit a Neuspeed rad switch (lower trigger temps), wire up speed 3 to a dash switch to combat heat soak after a hard thrape, sling some Redline water wetter in and enjoy.

 

You will of course be needing that Sprinter IC and Aquamist.

 

Get your engine mounts sorted, if not already done and some ATB goodness (bolts the diff in the process, the achilles heel of the 020 and 02A) and you'll have a daily useable, tractable car.

 

Thanks for the advise Kev, really need input like this. Noticed some really nice CV joints on page 18 of the Oct 05' issue of PVW(http://www.driveshaft.co.uk) . There £146.88 each but i'll try to get a better deal. I'll speak with Jeff about the various methods of lowering the compression, like to go for pistons and rods but it could get ridiciously expensive with the prep i'm putting to the conversion already. The engine is coming out, then the body goes to Jason and the motor and gearbox go to Jeff. Prep will be everything on this, currently collecting brand new wishbones, trackrods, hubs etc as i didn't fancy powdercoating secondhand parts. Even ordered a new radiator crossmember for a bargain £205+vat from GPC, dealers wanted £465.30!!

 

Engine mounts are polished VF allround thinking about changing the rear but i'll try it first. The gearbox will be rebuilt with a diff and thinking about a higher final drive to get more use out of the first two gears which are pretty useless with 375lbft. Seen nice intercooler in demon tweeks, Jeff wants to fit a EV0 7 but it requires extra holes in the bumper which i don't want. Intercooler will be bought early as i want to weld brackets to the rad cross member and brackets for the oil cooler so it can be re-powdercoated before fitted. Not sure how long the build is going to take but i'm in no hurry.

[A20 LEE 0]

Shocked , VR6S and an R32T. You a very lucky man Guy!! Did you fit the rear VF engine mount? H8RRA complained about the vibration and Jeff at Dubsport mentioned that a VF/VT rear mount makes it feel like theres something wrong with the car.

 

Thanks I guess without problems I will be a lucky chap ;-)

 

No i've only got the front VF mount now, reverted the rear and gearbox mounts back to OEM items because of the what Jeff mentioned.

went backto oem and would not refit a rear mount - the difference is ludicrous

 

I'm going to look into getting a softer rubber insert for my rear mount as the VF mounts are easy to strip down.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

325bhp with 377 pounds of torque is a potential 170-180mph car with the right gearing :-)

 

377 pounds is borderline pushing the drivetrain over the edge. There are CV cage and driveshaft strengthening options available.

 

So long as the spacer is good quality, you should be OK. My preferred method would be to machine blank small end bearings 1mm offset to drop the C&R to 8.5:1 and use a standard steel head gasket from VW. I used that method on my 16V Turbo to good effect, did about 50,000 trouble free miles in it before I sold it on. That of course does mean an engine out job, but it's a good oppurtunity to do the chains and rehone the bores, clean up the head, relap the valves in etc etc. If a job is worth doing, do it properly.

 

I think your approach is a good one, sensible, usable power and torque with the reliability. Focus on keeping the motor cool. Fit a Neuspeed rad switch (lower trigger temps), wire up speed 3 to a dash switch to combat heat soak after a hard thrape, sling some Redline water wetter in and enjoy.

 

You will of course be needing that Sprinter IC and Aquamist.

 

Get your engine mounts sorted, if not already done and some ATB goodness (bolts the diff in the process, the achilles heel of the 020 and 02A) and you'll have a daily useable, tractable car.

 

Thanks for the advise Kev, really need input like this. Noticed some really nice CV joints on page 18 of the Oct 05' issue of PVW(http://www.driveshaft.co.uk) . There £146.88 each but i'll try to get a better deal. I'll speak with Jeff about the various methods of lowering the compression, like to go for pistons and rods but it could get ridiciously expensive with the prep i'm putting to the conversion already. The engine is coming out, then the body goes to Jason and the motor and gearbox go to Jeff. Prep will be everything on this, currently collecting brand new wishbones, trackrods, hubs etc as i didn't fancy powdercoating secondhand parts. Even ordered a new radiator crossmember for a bargain £205+vat from GPC, dealers wanted £465.30!!

 

Engine mounts are polished VF allround thinking about changing the rear but i'll try it first. The gearbox will be rebuilt with a diff and thinking about a higher final drive to get more use out of the first two gears which are pretty useless with 375lbft. Seen nice intercooler in demon tweeks, Jeff wants to fit a EV0 7 but it requires extra holes in the bumper which i don't want. Intercooler will be bought early as i want to weld brackets to the rad cross member and brackets for the oil cooler so it can be re-powdercoated before fitted. Not sure how long the build is going to take but i'm in no hurry.

 

No worries Lee, I like talking forced induction when I've had a few :lol:

 

What ever you decide to do, I know it will be a good result as you don't feck about. The only reason I suggested offset bushing the rods is because you don't want to go mad with the output. I don't know for sure, but I'm fairly confident the standard pistons can handle what you have in mind and you're not going to raise the rev limit either I assume?. Plus that method is a whole lot cheaper than forged pistons.

For 400+, you'd need to investigate forged pistons, steel rods (or stress relieved standard ones), total seal rings and possibly even things like knifed edged cranks etc. You'll probably need raceware or ARP head and conrod bolts, too.

 

I'm sure Jeff will tell you all this anyway.

 

Longer gearing.... I'm not sure what the options are there. Speak to Vince at Stealth to see if he knows of a Final Drive that's higher than the standard 3.39. Maybe a mixture of diesel and VR6 ratios will suit you, or even an entire O2J PD diesel 6 speed box? With the latter you'll know it will handle the torque OK ;-)

[A20 LEE 0]

 

No worries Lee, I like talking forced induction when I've had a few :lol:

 

What ever you decide to do, I know it will be a good result as you don't feck about. The only reason I suggested offset bushing the rods is because you don't want to go mad with the output. I don't know for sure, but I'm fairly confident the standard pistons can handle what you have in mind and you're not going to raise the rev limit either I assume?. Plus that method is a whole lot cheaper than forged pistons.

For 400+, you'd need to investigate forged pistons, steel rods (or stress relieved standard ones), total seal rings and possibly even things like knifed edged cranks etc. You'll probably need raceware or ARP head and conrod bolts, too.

 

I'm sure Jeff will tell you all this anyway.

 

Longer gearing.... I'm not sure what the options are there. Speak to Vince at Stealth to see if he knows of a Final Drive that's higher than the standard 3.39. Maybe a mixture of diesel and VR6 ratios will suit you, or even an entire O2J PD diesel 6 speed box? With the latter you'll know it will handle the torque OK ;-)

 

Doubt i'll feel the need to up the rev limit, turbo cars do there best work in the mid range. Think i'll be fitting total seal piston rings as thats what Ian did with B16 DUB with new bottom end bearings and think he mentioned fitting strengthened conrod bolts too. Will the PD diesel gearbox bolt onto the VR lump? Planned to get a secondhand VR box to rebuild but if the diesel 6 speed will fit i'll definately fit it.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I was going to go 3.0 JE forged myself with my charger as I planned to take the boost out 15psi but Vince said forged pistons and total seal rings don't last that well (about 80K) and increase oil consumption, not to mention a diesel clatter when cold until they expand....but Guy Hartley can advise better on that as I think he's got the JE forgeds in his.

 

I tend to take what Vince says as read as most of the time, he's usually right, but not always ;-)

 

As far as I know, the 02A and O2J boxes themselves are the same physically, so it would just be a case of fitting the O2J to your VR bell housing, but again, this is definitely Vince's arena. I don't know of anybody else with his gearbox knowledge and skill. The man used to build VW gearboxes full time when he worked for Gemini.

 

Yeah Jeff is right, ARP or Raceware conrod bolts are a good idea with a turbo as the forces exerted on the pistons and rods are MUCH higher than standard.

Headbolts from the same people are advisable too, but at least you can reuse them if you do any further work as they are very high tensile.

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Can I come meet you Lee?

You're my hero!

[A20 LEE 0]

Can I come meet you Lee?

You're my hero!

 

:help: :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

LOL....an internationally renowned VR and with a turbo?! Can it get any better?

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Can I come meet you Lee?

You're my hero!

 

:help: :lol:[/quote:44216]

:lol:

 

dont worry Lee, youre quite safe...or are you :norty:

 

(haha sorry had to use that icon ^ ^ :D )

[A20 LEE 0]

Can it get any better?

 

gunna try,

 

this arrived today, see below. Brand new rad cross member, so big shout to GPC for a brilliant price of £250 delivered (£465 dealers). Still not cheap but worth it i think on a 13 year old car. Question is, should i seam weld it??

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Nah, it's not structural like the subframe and crossmember.

 

All of the C's frontal strength is in the inner wings and subframe. Everything forward of the engine just kind of 'hangs' there.

 

I've heard seam welding the wishbones can help....but I doubt you'd notice it on a daily run, it's just one of the things the hardcore track day people do. Shame Porsche 944 wishbones don't fit the C as they're alloy and don't flex at all...and a lot lighter.

[A20 LEE 0]

Nah, it's not structural like the subframe and crossmember.

 

All of the C's frontal strength is in the inner wings and subframe. Everything forward of the engine just kind of 'hangs' there.

 

I've heard seam welding the wishbones can help....but I doubt you'd notice it on a daily run, it's just one of the things the hardcore track day people do. Shame Porsche 944 wishbones don't fit the C as they're alloy and don't flex at all...and a lot lighter.

 

The rad x member is actually two pieces of 1.5mm thick steel spot welded together. Looks pretty meaty when you look down at it in the enginebay. Can can see why it rots, its very light though.

 

The wishbones are seam welded from the factory!! Had a good look at them and can't see a way to improve them other than machining a new bracket out of stainless to hold the bottom ball joint. Started to strip one of the new wishbones down to bare metal so i'll photograph them for you and post pics, maybe you have a couple of suggestions. Did consider boxing in the holes and indents, grinding them back then polishing and chroming them but thats ridicious. Even for me.