VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 10, 2013 WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT'S AWSOME!!!! ah there you go, well done :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 12, 2013 (edited) 2 steps forward 1 step back checked out the hot oil situation and it seems that the oil (or at least the oil temp sender) is getting too hot, driven at a steady 70mph temp is around 106 degrees,EDIT, after a run to hitchin and back, it was more like 120 degrees at 70mph, driven hard it got up to 130 before I noticed and backed off, I bought a new temp sender and plotted the resistance vs temp from 50 degrees to 100 degrees, then measured the resistance of the sender in the car after a run, the displaygave the correct reading for the resistance of the sender, I then removed old sender and fitted new sender, then carried out same resistance vs temp test that I did on new sender and THE RESULTS WERE THE SAME. So I'm thinking the coolant is not circulating through the oil cooler, either a blockage, incorrect hose connection (I've checked and double checked) or water pump failure, thoughts please gentlemen as I've got it booked into AMD on Tuesday for a remap and I don't think it will like the punishment on the dyno Edited July 12, 2013 by J.C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted July 14, 2013 Have you followed the same coolant system as the 12v, made and mods to the coolant system? Blocked cooler? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 15, 2013 Same coolant system as 12v, only issues are auxiliary pump not working (didn't effect my 12v oil temp) going to get one today, bought as a conversion, previous owner reports to no oil temp issues, coolant outlet 24v aux pump blocked ---------- Post added at 6:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 5:39 AM ---------- Same coolant system as 12v, only issues are auxiliary pump not working (didn't effect my 12v oil temp) going to get one today, bought as a conversion, previous owner reports to no oil temp issues, coolant outlet 24v aux pump blocked Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 15, 2013 Spoke to AMD in Essex re. oil temp, what the guy said is that it is more likely to be heatsoak from the engine giving a false reading at the filter, and that if the sump oil is reading 90 degrees then the oil in the engine will be 90 degrees or less, I've ordered a sump plug with 10mm thread for temp sender and blank off the port on the filter, I'm aslso going to order a laser non contact thermometer and start shooting coolant hoses in the bay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 24, 2013 Hi, Just thought I'd give an update on how things are going, went to AMD last Tuesday and after a day at west `thurrock shopping centre and cinema I picked the car up, To be honest it doesn't feel that much different, the figures topped out at 201 BHP and the tech said it was due to the heat, but looking at the grapth there seems to be a definate "turn" in the power at EXACTLY 5500 rpm (same rpm as the rev limit when vss isn't connected) so I'm wondering if something is causing the ECU to limit the power, I'm also having a problem getting used to the drive by wire throttle and clutch switch system, I have parkinsons which mainly effects my left side so I tend to not take my foot off the clutch pedal which I believe causes the ecu to behave weirdly (Kangerooing, revving between gears) I remember someone was in conversation wit a programmer to delete the clutch pedal switch, any updates??? overall I'm impressed with the low down tourque, I'm missing the 12V roar, air con is my main focus at the moment Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted July 25, 2013 Good to meet you at national day mate,I wasn't quite with it due to the :drinking: the previous evening :D I remember asking you your name from on here but couldn't put the pieces together.From what i have been able to gather from the 24v conversion's that have been done and are using factory management (DBW etc) they do have their problem's.The only thing i can suggest is to ask Kev Haywire (kev bacon) as he ran both factory and aftermarket management on his R32 conversion and is really clued up on it plus he lives in Essex not too far from you.Keep going you will get there :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 25, 2013 Clump1, You must have been drunk, because either you were at BUG JAM!!! or it wasn't me that you met:bonk: It's going well, it's just that I like to set my car up to my requirements and having never owned a DBW car before, I'm going to have to play with it a bit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted July 25, 2013 Sorry pal there must be another J.C. on here he said he was from Crawley. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 25, 2013 still haven't connected up the clutch switch or brake switch, although I have installed the clutch switch just not wired up, I think the reason im not feeling this revs "hanging" is because I modified the length of the throttle pedal { my pedal arms longer then stock making movement less sensitive, in theory} to suit as mines on a plate bolted with the servo bolts, although with the vss connected up I have noticed the power/torque does feel slightly down compared to when its not connected, I recon that will change though when the clutch/brake switch is wired in, I think that with the vss connected the ECU is realising its missing the clutch/brake switch, on the plus side my pedal hasn't died once ! so pretty stocked about that... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted July 25, 2013 Have I missed something? I dont have a clutch switch on my conversion. Are you guys saying its needed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 25, 2013 It's not needed if it's been coded out of the ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 25, 2013 It's not needed if it's been coded out of the ECU. if it hasn't been coded out would the ecu recognise this as a fault? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 25, 2013 I'm lead to believe that the ecu monitors the clutch switch if there hasn't been any input for a specific amount of time then it assumes it's not working and adjusts the map accordingly. You can code the ecu with vcds to tell it that it has an auto box fitted, it wouldn't look for a clutch switch. Not sure what the knock on effect is though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 25, 2013 It would indeed. It may not fault code it as "Clutch switch" exactly, but maybe a related sender or some such. I remember when I first installed my MK5 ECU and powered the motor up for the first time (after Stealth deimmobed it), I had a fault code list as long as my arm :D Then it was just a case of getting myself to Stealth (with a 5000rpm limit - no vehicle speed signal) and we shifted all of the codes one by one. Didn't have to install any brake or clutch switches and the ECU never coded them after Vince did his stuff. As mentioned previously, the only R32 hardware I had to leave in place was the SAI relay, evap solenoid and something else I can't remember at the moment. All pretty minor stuff :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 25, 2013 I'm lead to believe that the ecu monitors the clutch switch if there hasn't been any input for a specific amount of time then it assumes it's not working and adjusts the map accordingly. You can code the ecu with vcds to tell it that it has an auto box fitted, it wouldn't look for a clutch switch. Not sure what the knock on effect is though. Sean, was it you who was talking to a programmer about deleting the clutch switch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 25, 2013 Afraid not, not sure who that was. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted July 26, 2013 (edited) Just to note, you do not need to connect the clutch and brake if your donor vehicle was dsg! Edited July 26, 2013 by KipVR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) Guys, still got this issue and need ideas. Worried the last post was lost pages ago! Juddering slowing down in gear, passing through 2000 rpm there is a distinctive judder. I know it's engine related as when I clear the codes on my ECU the problem goes away for a little while. Any indications from this? New MAF, New Lambdas, low miler engine, fuel pressure good and no vacuum feed, no vacuum leaks. Edited July 30, 2013 by Fanjita Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taks 10 Posted July 30, 2013 Can you remind us of the faults you clear down? I got mine working.... the sound made it all worth it :-) [video=youtube_share;mUoMcymmDTA] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 30, 2013 Nothing out of the ordinary, 7 codes IIRC and all but one are related to other modules that are present in a MKV but not mine and acceptable. One says something about a coolant temp sensor? There's a rad one that the 3.2 won't use if I use my original fan controller, is this where that fault is from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 30, 2013 Lol, that over run sounds like popcorn popping! It could be complaining about the ECT sensor. Need to see the codes really! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 30, 2013 scanned the ecu this evening before wiring up the clutch and brake switch, one fault found 16990 p0606 -004 {ecm processor ?} no signal/communication intermittent, im guessing this is because of no brake & clutch switch. just need to swap over the actual brake switch and plug it in and reconnect the battery + test drive which I will hopefully do tomo if its not raining, now I had that fault {or one exactly like it} when my pedal went funny. also since re routing my pedal wires + changing the pedal wiring plug my pedal hasn't given me any problems what so ever, so all is good with that :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted August 3, 2013 I need to sit down and read all of this properly! Should have my engine in a couple of weeks time once the guys have time to get it all out of the donor car. Mark from swict is going to sort the looms, ECU and a cheeky remap while he's on with it. Can't wait!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted August 3, 2013 The rest is pretty easy, spanner engine out, spanner engine in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites