swiftkid 1 Posted September 7, 2014 I've heard of people doing it, using the vr6 coil pack and something about a shifter light setup to control the vvt as it only needs to switch at a certain rpm, don't know if it's any more complicated than that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted September 8, 2014 Also you'll need a different throttle body as 24v is drive by wire, I think I read somewhere that an Alfa one is what you need Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 8, 2014 It's a real feckin bodge and just smacks of people being too tight to do it properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted September 8, 2014 As already have the obd2 The early 24v's vvt is mainly for emissions? I got a vafc2 already so the flaps would be working Obviously it would get mapped Not quite so tight more so wanting to keep it simple I can use the standard obd2 throttle body which I am quite happy about I had an octavia vrs and detested the electric throttle dbw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted September 8, 2014 The best way of keeping it simple is to do it properly. Doing this way just seems to be a pikey. It's not expensive to have the ecu worked on to get around initial blocks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 8, 2014 Yep, VVT on the AUE engine is just for emissions during warm up, as per 1.8T. You can switch the intake with a Schrick controller. DBW is love or hate. I've driven an R32 engine with an analogue throttle and it's just not the same. Nowhere near as punchy. DBW is a very easy path to Cruise control on older VWs as well. I agree, DBW is nasty on early 1.8Ts, but on the run out engine and on the more powerful TFSI engines, it works well, imo. So whilst it can be done with OBD2, but it won't be the same. OBD2 = sluggish narrowband, ME7 = proper wideband. There's nothing complicated about the AUE install at all, but as no one on here has done OBD2 on a 24V, you're on your own. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted September 8, 2014 Didn't someone on here try to do this already? And although he got it working it was a complete PITA! I could be completely wrong (it was a few years and many drinks ago) but he had big problems with injector firing and control. Although essentially the same block all the sensors/inputs/fuelling ratios/lambda parameters etc etc are different. Not even thinking about the VVT or variable inlet side of things I don't think this is a good idea. If you want my 10p worth I'd get as much as possible from the donor vehicle and just transfer over everything you need. Far far simpler. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted September 8, 2014 I'm not wanting to argue with anyone but just a better understanding I would not think of this route with say the later engines with the vvt on both cams I know how much can be gained with tuning the vvt So with the early 24v engins in mind as long as the fuel and the ignition timing is good I'm presuming it will work? If not what els is there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted September 8, 2014 why wouldn't you use the 24v wiring and ecu? just scared of the wiring aspect? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted September 8, 2014 Thank you for the replies Yes the newer cars do seem to be just as responsive as the cable throttle but it's the actual feel of the pedal too if you know whaT I mean? Maybe just takes some getting used to? Being colour blind does put me off some but my 6yr old daughter helps me with the colours now lol All in all with the total cost of the ecu work and the wiring loom a stand alone would only be a few hundred quid more? So is it much more work with the conversion to have the mk4 abs unit? Will I need to get new abs sensors etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted September 8, 2014 I have an R32 running DTA non drive by wire from what I can gather and it is well punchy I'd let you have a run out in it Kev but you never go to show's. Sorry mate as much as I appreciate your knowledge/R32 I really can't justify a round trip to Essex though I would love to just to meet you seeing as you don't do show's :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted September 9, 2014 Thank you for the replies Yes the newer cars do seem to be just as responsive as the cable throttle but it's the actual feel of the pedal too if you know whaT I mean? Maybe just takes some getting used to? Being colour blind does put me off some but my 6yr old daughter helps me with the colours now lol All in all with the total cost of the ecu work and the wiring loom a stand alone would only be a few hundred quid more? So is it much more work with the conversion to have the mk4 abs unit? Will I need to get new abs sensors etc? I don't think you can run mk4 abs due to the physical size of the servo. You don't need it for the conversion though. I've got the later teves20 mk3 abs system in mine and I like that if you still want to change from stock for whatever reason. Cost wise, United Motorsport did all of my ecu work for £100, no remap though but you don't need to remap it to run well. I did my own wiring for 2 reasons, 1 I knew what I had or hadn't done and 2, I had read and continue to read horror stories of so called professional outfits making pigs ears of something relatively simple. If you are concerned about doing the wiring yourself then ask rub_jonny on club gti. He is a wiring guru! He does have a bit of a waiting list but knows his stuff. Otherwise I think Vince at stealth will do a loom for you. These are the only people I'd trust to do it based on experience. This thread has all the information you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 9, 2014 Didn't someone on here try to do this already? And although he got it working it was a complete PITA! I could be completely wrong (it was a few years and many drinks ago) but he had big problems with injector firing and control. Although essentially the same block all the sensors/inputs/fuelling ratios/lambda parameters etc etc are different. Not even thinking about the VVT or variable inlet side of things I don't think this is a good idea. If you want my 10p worth I'd get as much as possible from the donor vehicle and just transfer over everything you need. Far far simpler. Yep I remember, vaguely. Doug somebody? Had a red leather interior and a couple of bits off an Aston Martin or something? That's a good point you raise there about the cam sensors being different, so sequential won't work and when OBD1/OBD2 can't see the cam sensor, or get a meaningful signal from it, it over fuels like f'ck and retards the ignition a lot. Net result = down 30hp on a 12V engine. I have an R32 running DTA non drive by wire from what I can gather and it is well punchy I'd let you have a run out in it Kev but you never go to show's. Sorry mate as much as I appreciate your knowledge/R32 I really can't justify a round trip to Essex though I would love to just to meet you seeing as you don't do show's :thumbleft: We'll have to agree to disagree on that one fella ;) I had DTA on mine too and ME7 is a LOT punchier with the non-linear throttle :D We do need to meet up though and I am a bit of a VW hermit, agreed :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted September 9, 2014 I wasn't disagreeing with you Kev just saying mine feels punchy. I didn't know you had run it on both ️ it must have been pretty rapid. I'm sure our paths will cross sooner or later Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 9, 2014 Are you running VVT on yours yet? It's even punchier with that switched on :D Yeah defo! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted September 9, 2014 I'll have to ask the bloke up here who remapped it for me. I know that if you go over 4.5k rpm it really comes alive go over 5 and it flies Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) These questions now are just for information now out of interest Would anyone know if the sensors on the early 24v are interchangeable with the obd2 12v I know the coolant temp sensors are near enough same Is there a crank sensor or just the cam position sensor? It's having the widebands which have thrown me towards the mk4 ecu Has anyone had better results with the mfa MPG read out recently? Just in case whilst in the middle of it if on new engine if a sensor if duff to swap or get all new Edited September 9, 2014 by Mk3highline Added last bit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted September 11, 2014 I get a read out but it's approx 25% higher, probably due to injector size, I've heard Vince could remap it correctly These questions now are just for information now out of interest Would anyone know if the sensors on the early 24v are interchangeable with the obd2 12v I know the coolant temp sensors are near enough same Is there a crank sensor or just the cam position sensor? It's having the widebands which have thrown me towards the mk4 ecu Has anyone had better results with the mfa MPG read out recently? Just in case whilst in the middle of it if on new engine if a sensor if duff to swap or get all new Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted September 14, 2014 Well I'm still learning new things about this conversion every day and hopefully when I finally have my car on the road I'll write what I have learn't for anyone looking at doing it. For now I've just see that the oil cooler on the mk4/TT is different from the A3/MK5, bloody typical! For anyone wanting to do the conversion I would strongly advise getting the TT or the mk4, my A3 is a royal pain in the arse and the most awkward engine you can use! The oil cooler pipes point directly at the power steering pipe so fouls on that, mk4/TT however point forwards as opposed to towards drivers side. So my question here is, I plan to swap the oil cooler over, does anyone know if they are interchangeable? I would presume so but it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted September 14, 2014 Don't mean to sound like a smart arse but didn't you know the MK4 R32 engine was the one to use?? regarding your q's sorry unable to help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted September 14, 2014 Yes they are interchangeable. Soldier on. Plenty people have used the A3 block so don't be put off by it. The more hassle you have now, the more you'll appreciate it when it's all built up and running! I still love mine and it's "ONLY" the 2.8 version. NOT that that is a bad thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted September 15, 2014 There are pros and cons to each engine but a hell of a lot of advice is vague and lacks any backup information, I don't think I've read anywhere about the oil cooler being different. I will battle on, I just need to figure out how to fit a hanging pedal, even if I have to make a mongrel one! I do have a 3.2 block ideal for making an r30 Shaun ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted September 15, 2014 There are pros and cons to each engine but a hell of a lot of advice is vague and lacks any backup information, I don't think I've read anywhere about the oil cooler being different. I will battle on, I just need to figure out how to fit a hanging pedal, even if I have to make a mongrel one! think that's the only problem with this thread , its slowly gotten info from across all 24v engines rather then just a certain 3.2 it also includes info of 2.8 24v's aswell even though though its almost the same install theres allways going to be things which are needed and are not!.Check out how I installed my pedal if you need idea's,easy to do and you don't have to remove the pedal box or anything like that , but you will need to be able to weld... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 16, 2014 VW 'amended' the 3.2 engine several times to suit individual applications and emissions targets, ergo it's impossible to produce a definitive guide. There are even half a dozen different ECUs for them as well! We should be grateful there is any information at all imo. When I mapped my BDB with a standalone, there was F'CK ALL info out there about coil dwell times, cam sensor tooth gaps, cam phasing angles and duty cycles, nothing, nada, zilch, square root of jack! If VW hadn't kept the crank teeth gap the same as the 12V, I wouldn't have been able to run it all! Besides, don't you guys like a challenge?!? :) Where's the fun in recipe based conversions??! Real enthusiasts use the grey matter between their ears and figure it out ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty golf 0 Posted September 26, 2014 Sorry to go back in time had fitted an aue lump in my raddo, but it had a dodgy crank and killed the bearings if I was to put a bde in what wiring changes would I need to do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites