Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

yea try your old vr6 temp sensor, the 24v oil temp sender might not be compatable with the 12v clocks? not sure though, I used 12v stuff on mine also when I fitted my engine I didn't touch the mounts, I looked at what needed to be done to the bonnet and I decided it was easier to cut a 45 degree wedge out of the inner bonnet brace , it actually looks quite neat, it doesn't need much removing as its just the drivers side front corner of the inlet manifold that hits, so were talking a piece not even 5" long, if the bonnet ever needs a repaint then to make it look oem ill weld a plate on the end of the wedge and smooth it/paint it,

 

I had a play with my DBW pedal fault, I opened up the harness and re routed the 6 pedal wires from the main harness and ran them separate from the ecu plug through the accelerator cable hole, also re connected the vss wire back to w-1 as it wasn't rev limited when previously connected, so now I know 100% there is no breaks or crossed wires in the dbw circuit, new dbw pedal in the post so im going to drive it like it is and see if the dbw fault appears and if it does switch to the new pedal!!! and then hopefully carry on where I left off sorting out the rest of the car :)

[J.C 10]

I looked at what needed to be done to the bonnet and I decided it was easier to cut a 45 degree wedge out of the inner bonnet brace , it actually looks quite neat, it doesn't need much removing as its just the drivers side front corner of the inlet manifold that hits, so were talking a piece not even 5" long, if the bonnet ever needs a repaint then to make it look oem ill weld a plate on the end of the wedge and smooth it/paint it,

that sounds like the way to go, have you any photos?

[20vtvw 0]

Answered pm JC ,the oil temps I'm unsure about ,it ran no higher than 102 in mine .

Engine mounts were normal height at rear and about 20mm off the front to clear the bonnet and let the down pipe sit in the correct place..

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

that sounds like the way to go, have you any photos?

 

ill get some for you but it sounds like you need to do exactly as what 20vtvw did otherwise it will mess up your alignment of the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust system,

[Kevin Bacon 5]

also, it's got a good amount of pull lower down the rev range(like I expected) compared to the VR6 but semms to hesitate a bit at around 4K and above, (doesn't pull like the vr6 used to)

 

That's how all of the 24Vs are. What the VR6 used to do above 4000rpm, the 24Vs do it below. It's just a characteristic of variable intakes. 12Vs with a Schrick feel the same and in the old days, 268 cams were used to make the top end feel as lively as the bottom end, but there was still a very noticable dip at 4000rpm.

 

The only thing the AUE doesn't have which BDE 2.8 and the 3.2 does have is variable cam timing to beef up the torque curve after the intake switches plenums, but they do still feel like they flatten off, just not as much. AUE does have variable timing in as much as it's either on or off like the 20VT for emissions during warm up.

Edited June 29, 2013 by Kevin Bacon

[J.C 10]

semi success

lack of top end grunt was due to the connector to the intake flap solenoid was not connected,

when for a blast A LOT better, a few flat spots but prob. once I get filter and remap should be good,

but oil temps still rising too high, coolant is on 90 degrees but oil went to 108 before I backed off, been looking at how it works, correct me if I'm wrong,

the pump draws cooled coolant along the crack pipe via the thermostat, at the same time drawing coolant from the heater matrix bypassing the thermostat, the pump also pulls coolant through the oil cooler from the engine block, where this coolant comes from I dont know, but it seems to me that the coolant's not flowing into the oil cooler, why? blockage or maybe a wrongly connected hose????

The mechanic didn't fit the aux coolant pump, does any one KNOW whether this would have a direct influence on the coolant flow into the oil cooler???

I'm picking up the Aux pump amonst othe rthings tomorrow, will fit it back into system.

 

VW85 you'll be pleased to know that after a few gear changes at 6000 rpm my ECU decided it too didn't want to go over 5500 rpm, so now I'm limitet to 5.5K

GETTING THERE!!!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

the pump draws cooled coolant along the crack pipe via the thermostat, at the same time drawing coolant from the heater matrix bypassing the thermostat, the pump also pulls coolant through the oil cooler from the engine block, where this coolant comes from I dont know, but it seems to me that the coolant's not flowing into the oil cooler, why? blockage or maybe a wrongly connected hose????

The mechanic didn't fit the aux coolant pump, does any one KNOW whether this would have a direct influence on the coolant flow into the oil cooler???

I'm picking up the Aux pump amonst othe rthings tomorrow, will fit it back into system.

 

VW85 you'll be pleased to know that after a few gear changes at 6000 rpm my ECU decided it too didn't want to go over 5500 rpm, so now I'm limitet to 5.5K

GETTING THERE!!!

 

the way I see the cooling system is its similar to a house heating system with flow and return pipes, check for kinks in the pipes,

I don't have an aux water pump as the wiring isn't there for it , instead I used a piece of 22mm copper to join the pipes together, my cooling temps are really good!

from what I belive the aux pump only works after the engine is switched off to help circulate and dissipate the heat quicker? not entirely sure but you deffo don't need an aux pump,

 

yea your need to connect the blue/white vss wire from pin 54 up and then it will lift the rev limit, just make sure its not the blue/white pedal wire which is directly above it ;)

 

well I drove my car for quite some time today with plenty of stop offs and the pedal didn't fail on me once!! still early days but its looking like there was a wiring problem in the harness with the pedal wires, as i didn't strip out the harness completely i will never know! maybe the blue/white vss got crossed with blue/white pedal wire back when the loom was getting made for the swap, i know these wires got made longer so theres a chance it could be that...

Edited June 29, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[J.C 10]

 

yea your need to connect the blue/white vss wire from pin 54 up and then it will lift the rev limit, just make sure its not the blue/white pedal wire which is directly above it ;)

.

I've reconnected the cut wire already, maybe the rev limiter is a general safe mode setting, which is applied when any one or more of a number of faults occur and not a specific outcome of a particular fault/problem

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

I've reconnected the cut wire already, maybe the rev limiter is a general safe mode setting, which is applied when any one or more of a number of faults occur and not a specific outcome of a particular fault/problem

 

where exactly have you reconnected this wire to? back to the same wire that 20vtvw originally snipped? also pretty sure the 2.8 24v don't have safe mode..

Edited June 30, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[J.C 10]

where exactly have you reconnected this wire to? back to the same wire that 20vtvw originally snipped? also pretty sure the 2.8 24v don't have safe mode..

 

I just reloined where Russ (20vtvw) cut it

to be honest, I'm a bit dissapointed with the 24v conversion, I'm thinking of putting new mounts in to get less vibration, running the intake ducting, then shipping it off to DGautotech (or similar) and get them to sort out the overheating oil, poss flap malfunctoon, flat spots, refit my `vr6 box with a TDI 5th gear,

OR source and put a good VR6 12v back in

Plug and play (with)LOL, my arse!!!

sorry, rant over

 

---------- Post added at 7:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:00 PM ----------

 

where exactly have you reconnected this wire to? back to the same wire that 20vtvw originally snipped? also pretty sure the 2.8 24v don't have safe mode..

 

I just reloined where Russ (20vtvw) cut it

to be honest, I'm a bit dissapointed with the 24v conversion, I'm thinking of putting new mounts in to get less vibration, running the intake ducting, then shipping it off to DGautotech (or similar) and get them to sort out the overheating oil, poss flap malfunctoon, flat spots, refit my `vr6 box with a TDI 5th gear,

OR source and put a good VR6 12v back in

Plug and play (with)LOL, my arse!!!

sorry, rant over

[clumpy1 11]

This is why i am glad mine is running DTA i have not got the issues other R32 conversion's have keep at it mate :thumbleft:

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

I just reloined where Russ (20vtvw) cut it

to be honest, I'm a bit dissapointed with the 24v conversion, I'm thinking of putting new mounts in to get less vibration, running the intake ducting, then shipping it off to DGautotech (or similar) and get them to sort out the overheating oil, poss flap malfunctoon, flat spots, refit my `vr6 box with a TDI 5th gear,

OR source and put a good VR6 12v back in

Plug and play (with)LOL, my arse!!!

sorry, rant over

 

its just teething problems though, sadly no conversion like this will ever be plug n play even if the harness does plug straight in to the fusebox, theres allways going to be something to sort out, once I had my conversion up and running I was able to scan the ecu which allowed me to sort out other faults, have you scanned the ecu for logged faults? if not then buy vcds cable and program off ebay, its cheap as chips!! this is something you deffo need when doing this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/181161614441?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2e12dc69

 

with regards to the wire , im 99.9% sure the blue/white wire which 20vtvw cut is infact the blue/white pedal wire and not the blue/white vehicle speed signal wire which he intended to take to the fusebox plug W-1 to remove the vss rev limit { vss wire to w-1 does work 100%} , easy mistake to make as there directly inline with each other, hence why his pedal died as soon as he cut it, to confirm this is true , unplug the bigger ecu plug and remove the black plastic cover, it might have a zip tie around it, once you can see all the wires make sure you have the plug the right way up, the wires should be going out towards the left you can also see the pin out numbers in the corners of plug , there very small! use this picture to confirm by tracing the cut wire back to the plug, just make sure its the right way around and use the numbers on the plug to confirm the rows are correct!

 

once you have confirmed this, take the vss wire and run it to your fusebox plug W-1 or like others have and splice it to the speed sender off the gearbox or keep it out labled , in the main harness this wire wont go anywhere hence why your rev limited at 5.5k every conversion has this wire to deal with, if not then most get remapped and also sorts that fault out , but whats easier connecting a wire up or getting a remap? I don't intend to get a remap so I just connect the wire up ,

 

keep at it m8, im so happy with my 24v ! theres no way I would ever think about swapping back, im sure that once you get all the little niggley faults sorted and running as it should then your be happy...

Edited July 1, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[Kevin Bacon 5]

This is why i am glad mine is running DTA i have not got the issues other R32 conversion's have keep at it mate :thumbleft:

 

+1

 

24Vs are very different when run by standalones :D

[taks 10]

Also make sure the clutch and brake pedal are wired in. It was a common thought that just 12v them was a way to tell the ecu that the were disengaged (which is true) but those particular parameters have a timer on so when the ECU detects no change in either clutch or brake for x amount of time it goes retard (feeling flat) then starts the timer again.

 

I am in contact with a highly regarded ECU engineer who is going to map this out for me eventually but a quick fix of setting this time to infinity did not work. He is on the case though so I will update.

 

---------- Post added at 4:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:03 PM ----------

 

Dear VR Owner 85

Can you add to your diagram:

 

Pin 3 Brake switch to pin 55

Pin 4 Brake switch to pin 56

 

Pin 1 Clutch switch to pin 39

 

Might help people out

 

Thanks

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

Also make sure the clutch and brake pedal are wired in. It was a common thought that just 12v them was a way to tell the ecu that the were disengaged (which is true) but those particular parameters have a timer on so when the ECU detects no change in either clutch or brake for x amount of time it goes retard (feeling flat) then starts the timer again.

 

I am in contact with a highly regarded ECU engineer who is going to map this out for me eventually but a quick fix of setting this time to infinity did not work. He is on the case though so I will update.

 

---------- Post added at 4:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:03 PM ----------

 

Dear VR Owner 85

Can you add to your diagram:

 

Pin 3 Brake switch to pin 55

Pin 4 Brake switch to pin 56

 

Pin 1 Clutch switch to pin 39

 

Might help people out

 

Thanks

 

yea that's cool , my BDE doesn't have any of that wired up though, do you need the brake switch etc wired in on the 3.2's? p.s its the 3rd day running with my re routed pedal wires and re connected vss signal to w-1 and all is 100% ;)

Edited July 1, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[taks 10]

yea that's cool , my BDE doesn't have any of that wired up though, do you need the brake switch etc wired in on the 3.2's? p.s its the 3rd day running with my re routed pedal wires and re connected vss signal to w-1 and all is 100% ;)

 

Wicked!!

I got a feeling the BDE is looking for the clutch and brake switch. When changing gears at hi RPM do the revs momentarily hang on then it slightly over revs?

Get VAG com and check:

Clutch switch operation: Block 66

Engaged :100

Brake switch operation: Block 66

Engaged:011

 

If disengaged there will be a block of 0's

Going through my pics on my phone:

 

brake switch pin3 to ecu is white/yellow (pin 55)

brake witch pin 4 to ecu is red/black (pin 56)

Clutch switch pin 1 to ecu is white/red (pin 39)

 

Actually I am certain it does. I took the plugs out of 4motion at the scrap yard

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

Wicked!!

I got a feeling the BDE is looking for the clutch and brake switch. When changing gears at hi RPM do the revs momentarily hang on then it slightly over revs?

Get VAG com and check:

Clutch switch operation: Block 66

Engaged :100

Brake switch operation: Block 66

Engaged:011

 

If disengaged there will be a block of 0's

Going through my pics on my phone:

 

brake switch pin3 to ecu is white/yellow (pin 55)

brake witch pin 4 to ecu is red/black (pin 56)

Clutch switch pin 1 to ecu is white/red (pin 39)

 

Actually I am certain it does. I took the plugs out of 4motion at the scrap yard

 

no not that I know of, like I say the engines running sweat , but due to our roads in Guernsey I cannot drive it like I stole it , I value my license , our max limit sadly is 35mph!! so I cant really give it a proper drive but the engine pulls very strong from 1st 2nd and 3rd!! and gives me no indication that anything else is wrong, I will check in vcds but not really sure what im looking for , does the engine need to be running ? so basically I might have to hook up a mk4 clutch switch and mk4 brake switch and wire them as above? also if there was a problem with the lack of either clutch or brake switch wouldn't it log faults for these?

Edited July 1, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[J.C 10]

Wicked!!

I got a feeling the BDE is looking for the clutch and brake switch. When changing gears at hi RPM do the revs momentarily hang on then it slightly over revs?

Get VAG com and check:

Clutch switch operation: Block 66

Engaged :100

Brake switch operation: Block 66

Engaged:011

 

If disengaged there will be a block of 0's

Going through my pics on my phone:

 

brake switch pin3 to ecu is white/yellow (pin 55)

brake witch pin 4 to ecu is red/black (pin 56)

Clutch switch pin 1 to ecu is white/red (pin 39)

 

Actually I am certain it does. I took the plugs out of 4motion at the scrap yard

Would this apply to the AUE engine as well,

I've got VCDS lite and lead, But can't seem to get it to communicate with the controller, it was the same with my MK3 golf VR6, worked for a few months then packed up, I think I might have to invest in the paid version, but I use a Mac so will need Boot Camp sorting out first

Does VCDS lite have a time limit?

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

I've got VCDS lite and lead, But can't seem to get it to communicate with the controller, Does VCDS lite have a time limit?

 

when I scan my car I switch ign on and wait for about 30 seconds or until the throttle body beep noise stops and then select mk4 golf from the list and scan , otherwise it comes up with the same as you "cannot communicate" , I also cannot select scan individual moduls i.e "engine" straight off the bat, otherwise it says cannot communicate, I allways have to select mk4 golf and scan through the lot and at the end of the scan I can then go into individual modules and select engine and only then will it scan just the engine,

Edited July 2, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[J.C 10]

when I scan my car I switch ign on and wait for about 30 seconds or until the throttle body beep noise stops and then select mk4 golf from the list and scan , otherwise it comes up with the same as you "cannot communicate" , I also cannot select scan individual moduls i.e "engine" straight off the bat, otherwise it says cannot communicate, I allways have to select my vehicle and scan through the lot and at the end of the scan I can then go into individual modules and select engine and only then will it scan just the engine,

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow

 

I have a spare connector next to the throttle body connector, any idea what it's for?

 

What do people do with the EVAP purge valve, delete?

and secondary air injector pump, delete?

Got to get VAGCOM working!!!!

[J.C 10]

Regarding the VSS and Accelerator pedal wires

The confusion comes with the reading of the colours of the wire(s)

The pedal wire is white/blue

the VSS wire is Blue/white

the first colour being the main (thick stripe)colour and the second colour being the stripe(thin stripe)

and yes 20vtvw did cut the pedal wire,

will sort the rev limit out but first VCDS then engine mounts

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

I bit the bullet and bought the full vcds cable. Works straight out of the box, no waiting or comms errors.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

do you need the brake switch etc wired in on the 3.2's?

 

The ECU needs to see the brake pedal switch to disengage the Haldex but I don't know what your ECU man did to code this out. I believe the ME7 is as simple as changing a byte to tell it has the function or not, but in many cases the ECU still needs to 'see' a respective relay (across the trigger side) for the function or it doesn't like it. For instance, if you don't have the SAI relay connected, you don't get any long term lambda trims.

 

3.2s also need things like chassis angle sensors (Xenon alignment) and steering wheel angle (ESP) coding out.

[J.C 10]

double post,

Edited July 2, 2013 by J.C

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

If the cost of standalone wasn't so high, i'm sure I would be interested long term!