Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's just a green/black wire that goes off to the fuse box mate, which then goes up to the clocks.

 

The only MFA function fed by the ECU is the MPG, but that won't work from the ME7 or Standalone ECUs. Seriously though, you don't want to know the MPG :lol:

[Peebee 0]

Lol too true.

[quicky1980 0]

If you could let me know the resistor size Mat, that would be great.

[Fanjita 1]

Ok guys, cue the stupid question.

 

I have looked at the wiring diagrams and I know pretty much all the sensors I'm using and the old ones I need to keep. I've pulled the old loom out so that it now comes straight out of the bulkhead behind the brake servo and then ive laid it straight out. To preserve the old looms my intentions are to simply cut the plugs with enough wire to solder up a new wire into. I have looked at the options and I think my best choice is to go for the loom about a metre out from the bulkhead?

 

Can I just simply cut out the bits i don't need on the engine side of the bulkhead and then splice into that to save me delving into the fusebox? i would also make things like water and oil sensors more direct and bypass the large multi pin plug originally on the side of the engine. Thoughts?

[1990 0]

I'm not clued up at all with the wiring but as far as I can see the large multi plug on the side of the head is replace by one of the big R32 ECU plugs. You dont need to alter that the section of loom that connects to the engine at all.

 

The bit you need to splice is the bigger section with the lambdas, charcoal filter, MAF etc...

[Fanjita 1]

Thanks matey,

 

I have another question, anyone have any MKV Lambdas for sale? Can swap with mk4 set :)

[quicky1980 0]

I've got some lambdas. Ill get back to you with the part numbers

[Fanjita 1]

Perfect cheers mate!

[quicky1980 0]

Hey mate, I already gave you the details

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?66801-R32-Pre-cat-Lambdas-(pair)

 

:bonk:

[Fanjita 1]

Sorry Sam,

 

Must've forgotten I had received that! As far as I can tell on the forums they appear to be for the earlier R32 lump, can't use them on the BUB (2006) engine :(

[Swompy 0]

How have you guys over come the filter sitting right behind the rad?

 

I had mine rolling roaded today and only got 199bhp and i think sucking in hot air from the rad is the main problem.

 

So whats the best way around it

[Fanjita 1]

How have you guys over come the filter sitting right behind the rad?

 

I had mine rolling roaded today and only got 199bhp and i think sucking in hot air from the rad is the main problem.

 

So whats the best way around it

 

I doubt you'd lose 40+ bhp from just a slightly denser air than expected mate. What ecu you running on what engine? Mk4?

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[Swompy 0]

Its a 2.8 24v from a Bora 4motion, AUE engine code. Standard bhp is 204 on these engines. and I would of thought with a re-map and de-catted exhuast system would get more power and not loose any.

 

Torque is a 219 lbft tho so not all bad.

[Fanjita 1]

Vag-com clear? That does sound a bit of a loss mate, not sure what it could be though.

 

Guys what is the best pedal route to go on my MKv setup? I was led to believe the mkv floor mounted pedal might be a bit better/easier?

 

Does the mkiv 4mo pedal really work with my ecu setup fine kev? Might be easier to mount it on the existing pedal box.

[quicky1980 0]

My engine came as standard with the floor mounted pedals so I fitted one of those. I seem to recal that the firewall mounted ones clash with wires/fusebox/metal.

 

Either should work with the ecu I would have thought as they simply send a signal (resistance?) to the ECU for position. How, I cant say.

[Swompy 0]

My pedal is mounted on the fire wall, it does it in the way of the fuse box cover.

 

Only reason I can think its loosing power is because its sucking in hot air from the rad.

[Fanjita 1]

Cheers guys.

Sam, are you happy with the position of yours? I vaguely recall a few pages back you said you used the old pedal stop as one mounting point?

 

Any chance you could just share a pic for us so I can fit it in a similar fashion? Did you use the plastic mounting plate that's from the stealer?

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[1990 0]

I tired and failed to start it on saturday.

 

It turned over but didn't fire up. I pulled a plug and they were dry. There was a spark. Fuel lines are on the right way.

 

I tested the wiring for the fuel pumps and they seemed to have 1.5v with the key turned and 9.5v with the engine turning over.

 

I didn't get as far as pulling a fuel line off because the garge was closing but there was a small drip in the banjo connection to the pump under the car. I'm going to go back after work one night with some new fuel and see if its flowing through.

 

Any ideas?

 

Also the mk3 VR6 clocks did nothing at all, no clock, milege or lights. The battery has been sat on the floor behind the car for a year but showed 12.4v and does turn the engine over easily enough, its only an 063 though, theres a bigger battery there off a diesel clio that I could try.

 

Which is the fuel pump relay?

 

How exactly is the fuel controlled?

 

I thought that the key triggered the fuel pump relay which allowed the pump to prime and then once the engine is started the pumps gave the fuel rail pressure regulated by the FPR. I then thought the ECU would open the injectors and allow whatever fuel it needed through. Is that right?

 

PhatVR6 asked if I was using the mk4 relay plate, as far as i'm aware i'm not using that and I haven't swapped any relays on my fusebox during the coversion. Do I need to?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Wiring problems seldom get solved on a forum but first things first, what engine / loom are you using? MK4 or MK5? Who did the loom modifications? etc etc?

 

There are two fuel pump triggers on the MK4/MK5. The driver's door switch and the ECU. You need to make sure the ECU output is connected to your fuel pump relay (number 167 in a VR6 relay board).

 

As for the clocks, that could be anything. You'll need to just pick away at it methodically with a meter and do some continuity testing to figure out where the circuits go.

[1990 0]

I'm using mk5 engine with mk4 looms and ECU. The loom was modded to be plug and play by Andy Outhwaite at ACR and he also removed the immobiliser.

 

I didn't hear the pumps in action but they do get the voltage to them. If they get the voltage would that mean the relay is OK?

[Fanjita 1]

Oh dear... It seems my research falls on deaf ears

 

---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 AM ----------

 

Sorry mate don't take that the wrong way, in actual fact I suppose I haven't put my findings out clearly yet. But after numerous phone calls and google searches it would appear very problematic getting a MK4 ECU to run a much newer engine. I have heard of no problems with the fuel pump relay though so this may just be a connection problem.

[quicky1980 0]

Ill get a picture of the pedal position sorted out, i didnt use the floor bracket but thats 'cus I just havent got round to it and the pedal as is, is pretty secure. I did have to cut the carpet though :censored: to make it sit flat and still keep the pedal's clips.

[Fanjita 1]

I'd appreciate it a lot Sam, thanks.

 

I'm hoping a visit from Kev will help me with the small jobs like vacuum hoses and anything that you need to modify when fitting. Plus i get to see the finished article as encouragement to get my arse into gear!

 

I'm just waiting for Mark to finish the loom (bench test today/tomorrow apparently then its back in the post!) very exciting stuff.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

My MK5 loom should also be ready this week, fingers crossed, and then I will be able contribute a bit more to this thread :D

[1990 0]

Oh dear... It seems my research falls on deaf ears

 

Ha Ha!!! Don't worry, i'm not offended by it. The mk4 stuff will run the mk5 engine but I will get the cam fault. I'm happy to suck it and see for the time being but will more than likely get the cam sprockets changed.

 

I'm sure my starting problem is battery/relay/pump related rather than mk4/mk5 compatibility.