Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[clumpy1 11]

As above Dubpower I have one on my R they are best by far IMO

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

My manifold and decat is a dub power one... Not sure if they're still trading but they're good!

 

Regarding mot - if yours is before 95, the emissions are graded by engine using a database. If the exact engine code is not on their database (so originally corrado and abv for the vr) then it's treated as a non-cat vehicle and tested accordingly. Therefore a 24v corrado converted can pass the mot legally with no cats. Hth

 

Correct, except it's 92

[Fanjita 1]

Nope it covers up to 95. There are differences in vehicles mid 92-95 but they're still in this grouping for non engine code matches. Check the mot emissions manual on the gov.uk site.

[E2-SAW 0]

Excellent. Thanks kindly guys. Off to find a dub power manifold and decat now.

 

Do either of you have a video clip of how your exaust now sounds??

[Fanjita 1]

I do indeed, first one poor visuals but good idea of sound in the cabin. Second video, not the best audio (built in gopro mic) but better video. HTH

[Fanjita 1]

[E2-SAW 0]

Brilliant fanjita thanks for that.

 

What does the rest of your exhaust system consisting of?? And what intake?? :)

[Mk3highline 10]

I'm quite impressed listening to the sound of the dubpowers

Still wonder if there are any power gains from the manifold?

I'm looking in to a 6-3-1 but it's no good with the 24v management and space

I've used the most of the 12v downpipe and cat and feel it's restrictions imo

[Fanjita 1]

It's an original 2.25" vr6 magnex exhaust, although I'm tempted to get a 2.5" built for it.

 

Intake is a short runner to a bmc cda on the battery side.

 

Not sure of the gains mk3, I suspect I might have a negative effect on mine owing to the lack of cat.... I hear r32 engines are fussy when it comes to cats

[Mk3highline 10]

Any pics of the short runner intake please

As for the cats, I'm being led to believe that in an exhaust you want minimal back pressure with lot of velocity??

This is an awful vid of mine off iphone

Scorpion vr6 exhaust with a single cat

Air filter is on back above the gearbox away from manifold

[E2-SAW 0]

Emailed dubpower.

 

None in stock and no plans to get any more in. Oh well

[swiftkid 1]

I'm after a new manifold so if you find anything let me know. Difficulty I have is that I have mk5 manifold so can't use United motorsport downpipes, not that I would anyway due to the fact it is beyond impossible to get hold of anyone at that company, but also I don't have flexi in my sports cat so I'll need to have the flexi joint in the manifold which dubpower one isn't

[Fanjita 1]

Any pics of the short runner intake please

As for the cats, I'm being led to believe that in an exhaust you want minimal back pressure with lot of velocity??

This is an awful vid of mine off iphone

Scorpion vr6 exhaust with a single cat

Air filter is on back above the gearbox away from manifold

 

Just a short pipe, nothing really to see. Probably used the wrong term, I still have the standard R32 intake mani and throttle body. Sounds good, a little quiet if I'm being critical though? Could just be the recording quality?

[Mk3highline 10]

Just a short pipe, nothing really to see. Probably used the wrong term, I still have the standard R32 intake mani and throttle body. Sounds good, a little quiet if I'm being critical though? Could just be the recording quality?

 

It is quiet miles quieter than the 12v I do miss the 12v burbling roar lol

Has anyone tried the standard mk5 r32 downpipes there different to the mk4 and seem to be closer to fit the corrado??

Scorpion make downpipes for the mk5 imo the tubes are bit on the larger side

[swiftkid 1]

Yea lol, take a look in my build thread, I have mk5 which are similar angle but not straight fit. Needed to modify a fair bit, I got some flanges made and then welded together with lower section of vr standard with a bit of tweaking

[clumpy1 11]

Emailed dubpower.

 

None in stock and no plans to get any more in. Oh well

 

Give these a try http://www.maxrpm.de/Corrado-TeZet-exhaust-header

[Mk3highline 10]

Yea lol, take a look in my build thread, I have mk5 which are similar angle but not straight fit. Needed to modify a fair bit, I got some flanges made and then welded together with lower section of vr standard with a bit of tweaking

 

That's what my mate did with my downpipe

But did you have the actual downpipes off the a3?

I'm looking in to getting one made cost couple hundred quid max with flexi in to single cat

[swiftkid 1]

No, had a3 manifolds which are same as mk5 and vr6 downpipe.

 

Cool, keep us updated, I will be interested as mine was only intended as a temporary fix

[Mk3highline 10]

I wedged my iPhone between bootlid and bumper

Turdy vids in the dark was bit scared of phone dropping out too

Just to add to the sound clips

One is going slowly over speed bumps

Other is with some throttle

[Mk3highline 10]

Torque graph

 

Runs with and without flaps you can see the torqu with the flaps whic needs sorting

Got a problem with the cam sensor and getting some det

All in all I'm massively surprised

Edited December 12, 2014 by Mk3highline

[Mk3highline 10]

The bhp graphs

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Good results! Torque should be close to your power when it's sorted.

[Mk3highline 10]

it will be good to see when the cam sensor is working as it should.

It is bit rich on WOT

 

I need a little help with some info on the cam sensor and the magnet thing on the end of the cam compared to the 12v cam to compare

If anyone understands what I mean

Also when does the torque drop off normally on the 24v

[Bs6VR6 10]

Hey guys, as some of you are aware I'm currently building my own audi engined 3.2 corrado, progress is sedate but steady but at present I'm starting to get my head around the wiring, only issue is I've made this a far more long winded process due to my initial haste. Basically due to my old shell/car being a total lemon I decided to start afresh with a new shell. This shell being an older 16v, so in my haste and ignorance I ripped ALL of the wiring out with the naive notion of just rewiring using looms from breakers, wire it back to factory, get someone to produce the fly loom for the emerald management and away you go, easy I thought.....

 

So here are the questions, mods feel free to move if you think this is more wiring specific, but as it is directly related to a 24v build I thought this a good place to ask.

 

1. Does anyone have a guide or a link to somewhere that shows a complete wiring layout for the corrado. I have been following the 'central electric 2' guide whilst cross referencing with rubjonnys guide on club gti. Now I have found no issue tracing wires from the colored connectors and have managed to tag and label 70% but my lack of knowledge really come into play with the sheer amount of interconnecting wires and the vast array of single or double connectors, where can I find the info as to where these join or are terminated. I'm aware this probably sounds rather stupid to many of you, but for example the loom that runs to the electric window relay behind the rear door card, the live is ok, but there are 7 other connectors and I can't find the info that tells me where these are connected.obviously finishing with the door looms, but am I missing intermediate looms, I'm sure if I had this info I could figure it out, so please, my ears are open, enlighten me, lol! Further more, if anyone is reading this thinking, you wally that is a piece of **** I could do that in a day, please, come down I have a nice garage a brilliant kettle and financial incentives if anyone fancies a challenge;-)

 

2) This is the one I'm really concerned with. I am going to be running the engine(a 2007 audi TT BUB) on emerald k6 management, I have found a guy called Richard from london who is going to be producing the fly loom, but from what hes explained to me this will involve splicing the emerald fly loom into the original audi engine loom and will only run teh engine itself, all I will have to do my end is splice in an ignition live, earth and rpm tacho feed. However all the remaining engine ancillaries will run from the original fuse to engine loom. This is where I begin to crap myself a bit. I have the loom in front of me and he made it sound so easy, just remove everything that the emerald system will use and leave the rest. However from looking at it, it appears that everything from the 3 clear fuse box connectors runs to the ecu plug then back out into the large circle connector to the old vr6 engine loom. Has anyone got experience of running a 24v on standalone and if so what did they do with regard to this, any info or links would be hugely helpful.

 

I know I'm asking a lot, and I know many of you are probably thinking I shouldn't be attempting this with such little prior knowledge, but before I started this rebuild I knew next to nothing, every step has been a learning curve and I've learned so much along the way. I've always felt I pick things up quickly, I enjoy the challenge, money is tight so cant afford to just farm everything out and if I do it myself the sense of satisfaction is huge, plus you then know your own car inside out, a very handy skill.

 

Any help, advice or pointers would as always be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Hopefully,

 

Max,

Edited December 14, 2014 by Bs6VR6
fat fingers.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

it will be good to see when the cam sensor is working as it should.

It is bit rich on WOT

 

I need a little help with some info on the cam sensor and the magnet thing on the end of the cam compared to the 12v cam to compare

If anyone understands what I mean

Also when does the torque drop off normally on the 24v

 

Yeah I know what you mean.

 

The AUE engine has 4 'teeth' on the cam trigger wheel, which is known as 'quick start'. It means the engine start on any cylinder. The 12V needs to sync to TDC on cyl 1 before it can fire, which is a bit inefficient. All part of EU emissions bollards.

 

Anyway, said trigger is the left one. The 12V ECU won't understand the signal from it. It's more used to a single tooth as seen on the right sprocket. Maybe you can modify the right sprocket to take a 12V magnet disc under the bolt? You will also need to machine a hole into the 24V side casing and space it correctly. About 1mm should do it.

 

The torque starts winding off at 4500rpm ish IIRC.

 

 

 

 

1. Does anyone have a guide or a link to somewhere that shows a complete wiring layout for the corrado. I have been following the 'central electric 2' guide whilst cross referencing with rubjonnys guide on club gti. Now I have found no issue tracing wires from the colored connectors and have managed to tag and label 70% but my lack of knowledge really come into play with the sheer amount of interconnecting wires and the vast array of single or double connectors, where can I find the info as to where these join or are terminated. I'm aware this probably sounds rather stupid to many of you, but for example the loom that runs to the electric window relay behind the rear door card, the live is ok, but there are 7 other connectors and I can't find the info that tells me where these are connected.obviously finishing with the door looms, but am I missing intermediate looms, I'm sure if I had this info I could figure it out, so please, my ears are open, enlighten me, lol! Further more, if anyone is reading this thinking, you wally that is a piece of **** I could do that in a day, please, come down I have a nice garage a brilliant kettle and financial incentives if anyone fancies a challenge;-)

 

Buy yourself a power probe! Invaluable bit of kit for this sort of thing. I'm not sure a complete Corrado wiring diagram exists anywhere other than the official ELSA books / PDFs, but KipVR on here might know. He did all the wiring himself.

 

2) This is the one I'm really concerned with. I am going to be running the engine(a 2007 audi TT BUB) on emerald k6 management, I have found a guy called Richard from london who is going to be producing the fly loom, but from what hes explained to me this will involve splicing the emerald fly loom into the original audi engine loom and will only run teh engine itself, all I will have to do my end is splice in an ignition live, earth and rpm tacho feed. However all the remaining engine ancillaries will run from the original fuse to engine loom. This is where I begin to crap myself a bit. I have the loom in front of me and he made it sound so easy, just remove everything that the emerald system will use and leave the rest. However from looking at it, it appears that everything from the 3 clear fuse box connectors runs to the ecu plug then back out into the large circle connector to the old vr6 engine loom. Has anyone got experience of running a 24v on standalone and if so what did they do with regard to this, any info or links would be hugely helpful.

 

Yep, I do. I ran my Audi 3.2 engine with a DTA S80 and one of their DBW boxes. I think the K6 has DBW built in, which is dead handy.

 

I would not waste your time and money on a custom loom. You will not get better quality than the original loom and you know it's reliable because it worked in the donor car for years. All you need to do is cut off the VAG plugs and connect the wires to the Emerald plugs. Then it's just simply a case of finding a suitable switched live and earth and the rest of the wiring is all Corrado, which I would not rip out personally, again, because it's worked for years. Don't fix what isn't broken ;)

 

To figure out what wire went where, I just had the DTA ECU pin wiring diagram in front of me and I end-to-end tested the stock loom to figure out the wires. It's pretty easy, you just follow the colours back to the plug, cut em off, stick the Emerald pins on them and slot them into the Emerald's plug housing.

 

I ran mine with full intake VVT (exhaust not worth it), stock coils, DBW, intake flap, the lot and it ran really well. None of the annoying ARMD torque management maps that VAG use. Just pulled hard everywhere with zero flat spots.

 

Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time and be methodical and you'll be fine.

 

 

 

 

This is the end result. Standalone bolted into the OEM location (using 12V ECU cradle) and OEM 3.2 loom terminated with standalone plugs. It doesn't get any simpler or neater than that ;)

 

Edited December 14, 2014 by Kevin Bacon