The Suspension Discussion Thread

[Guest]

:lol: Leaking! these literally shook themselves to bits! they were appalling, i expect the H&R`s are still going strong on my old Rallye, G64 FBL if anyone sees it ask the owner :wave: its in Leicester somewhere apparantly :grin: and i seen at spring fest last year

[Louis 0]

So is the general conscensus that on standard wheels a drop of up to 40mm is pretty much hassle free?

 

I'm strictly on a budget, the suspension has given up at a very bad point in time so I've gone for the FK AKX kit, cheaper than Boge and I decided probably better quality, although I used Boge in my previous 2 mk2's and I thought they were fine. Anyway the kit comes with 35-40mm lowering springs. Considering that the dampers are harder than the standard units I have on the car currently, I'm assuming all will be ok, I already hate speed bumps anyway so that aspect won't cause me much grief.

 

I don't think the suspension has been changed before, is it advisable to order new top mounts etc for the job? I also read on the euro performance website that Corrados produced after Oct '93 used different axle spring plates (part 1H0 412 341) to what the kit provides, I've tried to find this part on vagcat but can't find the exact same part, does anyone know if it would be reusable when I take my old units out?

 

Is this advisable or should I just get new parts? I can't waste money but also don't want to fit the new kit then have to order some more parts and mess around with it all over again.

[Neil VR6 0]

40mm is fine and to be fair quite a modest drop anyhow. Loads of people run it much lower than that with no ill effects (other than a bit of spoiler scrapage)

 

I don

[Louis 0]

Cheers pal, think I'll order the new bits anyhow just because I have no idea what condition they're in. I did find the boge fine before on the old golfs, a bit hard like you said but good fun. I'll have to wait and see what the FK's are like then, I'm guessing fairly similar to the boge to be honest.

[Serial 0]

Right, I've just had my knackered old FK highsport's replaced with some brand new shiny Koni coilovers -- first impressions are much better ride and handling, improved steering feel, and the car feels much more planted on the road.. excellent improvement...

 

But... since the coilies were swapped a rather loud 'see-saw' type noise has appeared when I go over speed bumps at low speed, coming from the front of the car -- it definitely wasn't there before... and also if I come to a stop on a hill facing downhill, there is a kind of 'tink' noise, which starts off rapidly and then slows down.... tinktinktink.tink..tink...tink....tink... if you get my drift... that wasn't there before either.

 

Just wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this before?

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[Jammin 0]

Hi, first of all I'd just like to thank everyone on the forum. Although I've never really posted the information I have gained about corrados has been invaluable!

Right I'd thought I'd share my suspension story. After lots of research and advice from fellow corrado owners I decided to go to the Phirm who were very good and recommenced g-max suspension kit with powerflex bushes. I was very impressed and the car feels completely different. In my opinion although only a budget kit it improves the handling and looks massively and is just the right hardness!, however I couldn't recommend this suspension to anyone. February, yes seven months after it was installed both rear shocks are completely blown and the car is off the road! I told The Phirm almost two months ago. I phone them every week. The Phirm says - "we are waiting for parts g-max keeps delaying" G-max says "we have them in stock for next day delivery". Which leaves me with an underivable car that I use everyday! so i am now having to hire a car.

So in summary the set up is good, just hope it doesn't go wrong!

[Walesy 0]

I had a G-Max kit on a G60 a few years ago and tbh I couldnt believe just how bad they were in every aspect :( they were a budget kit and I certainly got what I paid for - I really cant see why The Phirm would recomend them to anyone at all :eek: , though I suppose if you were happy with your kit then maybe they've improved - I know alot of Mk2 owners seem to rate G-Max

 

If I was gonna replace suspenders with a kit of that sort of value I think id be going for Weitecs.

[Philuk 0]

i was running -40mm Eibach Springs and standard shocks, was good ride quality but looked bums

 

now running FK Highsports and ive set it how i want it and i love the ride quality and the handling is mint!

[Storm Warning 0]

I've just had KW V1s put on and I am a little concerned about them. Its sat quite low with some adjustment available and I do want to go higher ideally, what is worring is that the small helper springs are tottally compressed like a 80mm thick washer! Is this normal? I also have no boot, bonnet, doors, interior or fuel on board so the problem will no doubt get worse.

 

Pic available on my gallery thread P4... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=43642&start=45

[zak 0]

helper spring is meant to fully compress, its only purpose is to make sure the main spring does not come loose when you jack the car up and the strut is fully extended.

[Storm Warning 0]

Cool thanks for that. I very excited and scared at the same time about what the KWs will be like, its new territory for me. I'm loving the look of it now, but I want to get it up to height where its got a nice even gap around the arch.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Right i want kw varient 1's for my VR wheres the best place to get them from as the specialist near me want 840 quid for supply and fit? Also what else should be replaced at the same time top mounts ??

[vornwend 0]

Right i want kw varient 1's for my VR wheres the best place to get them from as the specialist near me want 840 quid for supply and fit? Also what else should be replaced at the same time top mounts ??

 

£600 seems to be the best price you can get if you Google (eg R-TEC Autodesign). I don't know what a good price is for fitting them but I'll soon find out as I've got some ready to be fitted :)

 

I've also ordered VW Front Top mounts and bearings from the stealers (circa £25 - £30 in total I think) I was advised by the parts department that rears don't usually need doing unless they are in a bad way already. I've heard it said that VW top mounts may not wear as well with uprated suspension and could show signs of wear after a couple of years) so you might be better off with a specialist supplier like Bonrath. (Chazrad on here has them fitted).

 

Vaughan

[Jon_vr6 1]

Ive PM'd chazrad asking where to get the bonrath top mounts from will look into R TEC 600 quid seems good! Do the top mounts come with the bearings? You dont happen to have the part numbers for the top mounts do you? Also are you replacing anything else ? Bushes?

 

Cheers

[vornwend 0]

You have to order bearings seperately. I should have part numbers tommorrow after I've picked them up. Not planning on replacing anything else at the moment - its been an expensive month!

[g60karmann 0]

I have KW Varient 1 coilovers dropping about 45 all round with standard bbs 15"s and 50 profile tyre

 

I have found these to be a perfect set up (except the speed [strike:zsudsepn]ramp[/strike:zsudsepn] mountain either side of my house) very limited body roll, smooth ride for daily driving and big pot holes aren't too cringe worthy (i think the wheel / tyre size effects this the most)

[Jon_vr6 1]

So about 45mm all round what are you going for Vornwend??

So suspension kit and front top mounts and bearings thats all that needs replacing really?

[vornwend 0]

I'm going to be fairly conservative to start with - looking at about a 2 finger gap all around. I've got BBS RXs (17inch, 7.5 and 205/40) to fit at the same time so that will be a factor as I don't want any rubbing. I had a good look around other examples at Stanford on Sunday and I think I prefer that sort of gap. I think Goldie's Storm on Solitudes had a drop of about 45mm at the front and 70mm at the rear when I compared the reported gaps to middle of arch on mine. His middle arch to floor measurements after fitting were 585mm at the front and 600mm at the rear

 

I think they may settle over time as well? so don't want to go too low right away although the whole point of V1s of course is that you can adjust :?

 

Vaughan

[Kevin Bacon 5]

A 2 finger job is the limit, but even then the wishbones are lower than parallel. 1.5 fingers and lower causes quite bad bumpsteer under power.

 

This does of course rather depend on finger size.....i.e. cocktail stick fingers, or chunky sausage fingers, or even fish fingers....and last but not least, fingers of fudge. Rumour has it one of them is enough to give a kid a treat, but I prefer to use them as Corrado ride height gauges!

 

Fear not, I am investigating a way to raise the height of the steering rack, so that we can lower our cars without the associated side effects.

[vornwend 0]

Cheesewire - What gap for parallel wishbone and what difference does it make if its not ? What is bumpsteer? (apart from being a sentence I've never written before :lol: )

 

Is wheel alignment recommended after lowering?

[Critical_Mass 10]

A 2 finger job is the limit, but even then the wishbones are lower than parallel. 1.5 fingers and lower causes quite bad bumpsteer under power.

 

This does of course rather depend on finger size.....i.e. cocktail stick fingers, or chunky sausage fingers, or even fish fingers....and last but not least, fingers of fudge. Rumour has it one of them is enough to give a kid a treat, but I prefer to use them as Corrado ride height gauges!

 

Fear not, I am investigating a way to raise the height of the steering rack, so that we can lower our cars without the associated side effects.

 

Cheers Kev, That could explain my dodgy steering since i lowered the car by 40mm all round. The steering over bumps is terrible, doesnt ride/absorb them at all. It just seems to follow the bumps. So that could be down to the amount of lowering, if the wishbones are over the parallel to the ground, right/wrong?

[Jon_vr6 1]

Right recieved an email from TOP Gear stockport and they have said i can buy the suspension separetly but for them to fit it its going to be 250 quid instead of 151 quid because they discount the fitting if you purchase with them

 

So with them supplying and fitting £840

With me supplying £600 + £250 = £850

 

So does any one know a place around the north west area that can fit suspension for a fraction lower than 250 quid?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Vornwend and Critical_Mass, bump steer is caused by the wishbone and tie rod no longer moving in a uniform arc parallel to eachother.

 

It's difficult to explain, but the simplest way I can think of is to draw the noddy sketch below :lol:

 

Does it make sense? Top is the standard ride height and shows the ideal hub movement, hence the green tick :lol:

 

Middle is what happens to the vast majority of us. A 50mm drop, or thereabouts, causes the WB to sit parallel, which then pushes the tie rod up, limiting it's arc. Therefore, when you hit a bump, instead of the hub moving up in a nice arc, it can move inwards aswell as up. Not what you want, but if you don't go too low, it's managable on the roads.

 

Bottom is obviously what happens when you slam a Corrado and it's plain to see what happens with big compressions! Hence the big red cross! As Arnie said in Terminator 1 in the Gun Shop..."WRRRUUONG" :wink:

 

So, the aim of the game is to keep the hub moving in a nice arc, that's why double wishbones were invented, but a cheaper way for us would be to A) Not lower so much, or B) figure out a way of restoring the correct arc, i.e. move the rack up, or any other ideas someone may have?

[Critical_Mass 10]

Vornwend and Critical_Mass, bump steer is caused by the wishbone and tie rod no longer moving in a uniform arc parallel to eachother.

 

It's difficult to explain, but the simplest way I can think of is to draw the noddy sketch below :lol:

 

Does it make sense? Top is the standard ride height and shows the ideal hub movement, hence the green tick :lol:

 

Middle is what happens to the vast majority of us. A 50mm drop, or thereabouts, causes the WB to sit parallel, which then pushes the tie rod up, limiting it's arc. Therefore, when you hit a bump, instead of the hub moving up in a nice arc, it can move inwards aswell as up. Not what you want, but if you don't go too low, it's managable on the roads.

 

Bottom is obviously what happens when you slam a Corrado and it's plain to see what happens with big compressions! Hence the big red cross! As Arnie said in Terminator 1 in the Gun Shop..."WRRRUUONG" :wink:

 

So, the aim of the game is to keep the hub moving in a nice arc, that's why double wishbones were invented, but a cheaper way for us would be to A) Not lower so much, or B) figure out a way of restoring the correct arc, i.e. move the rack up, or any other ideas someone may have?

 

Yup, makes perfect sense. I wouldnt say my car was that low for it to be the bottom pic. I've only dropped it 40mm all round!?

 

What symptoms would you get running your car like the bottom pic or even middle pic?

[vornwend 0]

Thanks Kev, think I understand that but don't ask me to explain it to anyone :? I Googled :geek: this as well and found loads of other explanations but yours is quite easy in comparison.

 

Plan at the monent is to lower by 40mm at the front and 70mm at the rear to give floor to middle arch measurements of 590mm and 600mm. 99% of the time I drive with both hands on the wheel so I'm not too worried about having to make the occasional bump induced correction.

 

Do we recommend wheel alignment being done after lowering?