Bloomin' Headlight Looms

[Supercharged 2]

On both my cars I seem to have alot of issues with the uprated looms that are fitted either with the fuses going rusty or relays getting damp and eventually rusting and sticking on/off...

 

I've tried different makes of relays and they all seem to be as bad as each other, does anyone know a supplier of decent water tight relays or maybe a mounting plate for 2-4 of then in a sealed box?

[davidwort 0]

On both my cars I seem to have alot of issues with the uprated looms...

 

I've got four of the cheapest relays from Maplins only cost about 1.50 each or something, but the key thing was fitting them inside a box, again bought from Maplins and with one hole drilled in the bottom for the wires to exit, it's been on the car for over 40,000 miles and 6 years and everything is fine, I went a bit mad with the connector insulators and heat shrink too, but it's worth it. It all sits behind the passenger headlight in front of the battery.

 

David.

[nocrap 0]

davidwort, any chance of getting us the maplin product numbers for the stuff you used?

 

Cheers

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Funny should say that Steve because last week I was plunged into total darkness at 80mph on a twisty country road. I shat myself.

 

I turned the beams off and then the dipped beams came back on, WTF!!!

 

After further investigation, one of the 20 amp fuses for the main beams had melted and also fried the wire and fuse holder, eventually blowing the fuse. Looked like it had been getting too hot over time.

 

I've checked the wiring and there is absolutely nothing wrong to cause that, so maybe the supplied fuses with these kits are under rated?

 

I replaced the fuse holders and fuses and it's been OK since, but this is the 3rd time it's happened. Strange.

 

Not sure where the loom was from as it was on the car when I bought it, but it seems like a decent quality one.

[davidwort 0]

davidwort, any chance of getting us the maplin product numbers for the stuff you used?

 

Cheers

 

Kev- plunging into darkness is why I went for four relays and four fuses, left/right, dip/main only issue is perhaps using the switching feed from just the passenger side, but it's sticking relays and blowing fuses I was most worried about.

 

 

Don't take all of this as 'Scientific Fact' :lol:

but this is what I wrote down after doing mine:

 

component count/notes for relay setup

-------------------------------------

24/11/2000 D.W.

 

P=IV I=P/V - for my benefit!

 

dip beam (one side) 55W/12V = 4.58 amps

 

main beam (one side) 60W + driving lamp (one side) 60W/12V = 10 amps

 

main beam (one side) 100W + driving lamp (one side) 60W/12V = 13.3 amps (so you could uprate main bulbs to 80/100W and still be under 15A)

 

therefore: 15A relays are adequate (30 are available but less common and more expensive)

 

4 * 15A relay

dip beam left

dip beam right

main beam + driving lamp left

main beam + driving lamp right

4* inline fuses + holders rated at 15A (relays can be purchased that contain a fuse mount)

 

red and black cable rated at up to 15A, alternatively red + 2 other colours(dip,main,driving) + black or brown (relay earths) depending on location of relays etc., more than 10 metres of red (or 4m of each colour) and a couple of metres of black/brown cable is required

 

spade end connectors:

16 female for relays

8 female for fuse holders

6 female for relay to light bulbs

4 female for switching feeds (i.e. existing loom +12v feeds to bulb filaments)

TOTAL= 34

 

6 male for light bulb to relay join

4 male for switching feed to relay join

TOTAL= 10

 

Note: get far more than you need, you always make some mistakes/bugger some up.

 

plastic sheaths for above (usually male and female ones)

 

1 earth terminal round connector (roughly 4 times duty of spade connectors)

 

1 +12v terminal round connector (same as above)

 

cable wrap or heat shrink tubing, couple of metres

 

small tie-wraps

 

box to house relays (keeps things tidy if you go for a 4 relay setup)

 

good quality crimping tool

 

Phillips screwdriver (longish) - you will need to remove both headlights - easy.

 

As an alternative to the connectors above, you may be able to source male and female connector blocks and connectors (three-way), I've seen them in body-kit headlight setups, but they may be expensive and difficult to find, the connectors are a larger, less common size. The advantage of using these would be not having to cut any wires in the existing loom.

[nocrap 0]

Excellent, cheers

[Guest]

gonna have to have a look at mine, now the nights are drawing in, I've been popping bulbs on the offside, been through 3 bulbs so far over the summer, and I've hardly used them!

 

A nice water tight box is the answer, so I think i'll be ringing up Maplins :)

 

cheers for that mate

[Supercharged 2]

Funny should say that Steve because last week I was plunged into total darkness at 80mph on a twisty country road. I shat myself.

 

Thats happened to me too and it's bl00dy dangerous - there really should be better instructions supplied with these looms so people understand the consequences, the one I have cost me over £50 and it's been nothing but trouble...

 

David - cheers, thats the sort of thing i'm looking for but i'm still after a more OE solution, the plugs are the oother problem, they should be water tight and spade ends are just not good enough for critical stuff like head lights... I've ordered the VAG connectors but not sure if I can get the male 4 pin connector too (the one on the headlight itself..)

[mtc R32 0]

Talking about these looms... I itted mine recently and was a little peeved that I've lost side lights!!! Or am I doing something wrong????

 

Soon as you turn lights on (1st click) its immediate dipp lights....

 

I quite liked driving at dusk with side lights and front fogs.... :)

[Dub_nut_g60 0]

mtc R32 You need to make sure you have disconnected the Dim Dip resistor (yellow thing attached to wing infront of battery)

 

As i was told on my driving lessons (instrctor was an ex traffic cop) that you shouldnt really drive on side lights, if your going to have lights on it should really be dipped main beams. im not even going to comment about driving with fogs on when its not foggy tw@t.

 

I have the same problem that i keep melting fuse holders, am using 20amp fuses, would using higher rated ones mean more or less heat??

[mrbeige 0]

I did my own loom, the relays are mounted just under the front panel, and never had a problem with them. I used one relay for each side (dipped only) and they've never missed a beat...:?

[nocrap 0]

 

As i was told on my driving lessons (instrctor was an ex traffic cop) that you shouldnt really drive on side lights......

 

I completely agree, these lights are 'Parking Lights' and not driving lights

 

P155es me of when you see people driving in the fog with them on thinking that its ok, why not just put it onto the main dip setting!! :mad:

 

Sorry :offtopic1:

[davidwort 0]

 

As i was told on my driving lessons (instrctor was an ex traffic cop) that you shouldnt really drive on side lights......

 

I completely agree, these lights are 'Parking Lights' and not driving lights

 

P155es me of when you see people driving in the fog with them on thinking that its ok, why not just put it onto the main dip setting!! :mad:

 

Sorry :offtopic1:

 

I have to say I drive with sidelights on most of the time, particularly in daylight in winter when the sun is low in the sky.

My reason is I hate traffic in daylight with dipped beams on, they can suddenly glare but having the rear lights on just gives that bit of extra visibilty driving behind traffic heading into the sun. I know it helps me when the car in front has his rears lights on so I'd hope it's better for people behind me.

I've often found driving a low black car, that people just don't see me in their rear or side mirrors, so perhaps the sidelights at the front help a bit there too.

[davidwort 0]

...

 

David - cheers, thats the sort of thing i'm looking for but i'm still after a more OE solution, the plugs are the oother problem, they should be water tight and spade ends are just not good enough for critical stuff like head lights... I've ordered the VAG connectors but not sure if I can get the male 4 pin connector too (the one on the headlight itself..)

 

Maplins do clear plastic covers for male and female connectors, these fit tightly on 15A cable and join quite tightly too, I reckon they are almost totally watertight.

 

I cut my OEM connectors about 4" from the light back and used these to join up to the relays, so there's not really anywhere water can get in but I did cut into the OEM loom, if I have a problem with the relays I've made sure I can simply connect the switching feed straight back to the 4" of cable to the light connector block by making sure I've fitted a male and female connector in the right places on both sides.

[steveo29 0]

i mounted my relays under the slam panel and put them in a latex glove to keep em dry...on the conncetions you can use dielectric grease to keep the water from spoiling em

[dr_mat 0]

The original VW loom might be a "poor" design in terms of electrical efficiency, but it does seem to stand the test of time ..

I'm kinda glad I never fitted the dodgy looking loom I bought off ebay now!!

[Tekara 0]

Cant help with design defects, but well worth getting some self amalgamating tape to get things water tight.

[dinkus 10]

I just bought a loom off the guy on ebay in the suppliers forum.

 

I think it was £45 delivered, but it comes with pukka VAG connectors on it to connect to the headlights, water-proof fuse enclosure and I asked for bullet connectors on it to connect into the main loom.

 

(once I know it works!) I'm gonna hack the current plugs off, put bullets on the wire and heat-shrink the uprated loom in - should be nice and watertight.

 

The only issue then is keeping the relays watertight, but a plastic bag wrapped around them seems to have done the trick in the past.

[Supercharged 2]

Ooohh...

 

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/181

[Yandards 0]

Slightly different route but I have just fitted a set of xenon dip/main bulbs and some xenon main beam bulbs too.

 

Tested the main/dip beam ones last night on the way home and it was much improved, just got see how well the uprated main beam inner bulbs (H3 type) do tonight.

 

Got them from Halfrauds - the main/dip bulbs are the super brilliance range of xenons and they are on buy one get one free ATM, supposed to provide up to 50% extra brightness.

 

Probably not as good as an uprated loom but then my lights have not given up randomly either (so far....)

[Supercharged 2]

How hot do these get tho Yan? just worries about the reflectors...

[G60SC_Stoney 0]

im running 150w bulbs in my mains at the moment and 120w in the normal headlights, havent lost any reflective coating and hasnt peeled or anything, plus i dont get flashed by other drivers for blinding them!! result!

[chubbybrown 0]

I had the heart stopping mainbeam lights giveing up late one night :shock:

 

Anyway,it was caused by the fuseholder;water penetration has caused it to corrode and oxidise as well.

I went and bought sealy waterproof fuse holders from Lucas

and since then No problems.

The relays havent been a problem,I go a bit :nuts: with WD40 under the hood before winter.

I still wouldnt be without the Loom Upgrade even though it was £50.

I regret not taking the slamcover already!

 

ttfn

 

Roy

[dinkus 10]

Oh and would like to point out that the current uprated loom I have is a pile of w@!# - I lose dipped beams every time I go over a bump, no matter how much jiggering and pokering I do to the fuse holders - they're just corroded beyond help.

 

Luckily if you lift off the throttle and put it back on again quickly, it's usually enough to shake the connection back, but it's not a lot of fun randomly losing your lights. Most of my night driving is on a motorway, so it's not too bad losing lights, but I've crapped it a couple of times on country roads when the lights just went.

 

FYI if you put full-beam on, that'll still work, so you're not completely without light. Not fun either way tho and that new loom is going on as soon as I get a chance to fit it!

[colinstubbs 0]

Bought my loom from Venom 8 years ago, and the only probs I've had are a double dipped bulb failure after 3months (they were just old) and one blown fuse (hey it happens!!!) No corrosion and no overheating. Only maintenance has been a touch of WD40 every couple of years.

 

My C's previous owner had 100w spot bulbs in and it had scorched the reflectors. :bad-words: I changed the headlamps, then went 30%,and then 50% Xenon bulbs and finally the loom.

 

The loom made the biggest difference as you get the spots and the main beam element of the H4 bulbs too.

 

Get a good one and you'll not regret it. 8)