coullstar 0 Posted June 5, 2010 Standard arches I would stick with 8in, Et30 on back and ET35 front. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 5, 2010 loving the choice of wheels :D are they 5x100? the dishes suffering from laquer peal? if they are then i strongly recomend you send the dishes to a specialist striped mine with nitromors when i got them then sent them off a guy i know. came back like this! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 5, 2010 Oh no! Really? Whats the best setup then? Dont know if it helps mate, but mine are 17x7.5 ET30 and i have an easy cm room to spare in the arches. I would have thought ET40 8 inch would fit ok but you may have to roll the arches. Cool, that does help. Currently I'm running 17x7.5 ET35 wheels all round. Lowered roughly 50mm?? Hard to tell but I have arches rolled anyway and all clear pretty well. Front (vr6 hubs/wishbones without spacers) Rear 16v rear cross member with 20mm spacers making ET15 if I understand correctly. I'm going to get some 20mm spacers and have my fingers crossed. loving the choice of wheels :D are they 5x100? the dishes suffering from laquer peal? if they are then i strongly recomend you send the dishes to a specialist striped mine with nitromors when i got them then sent them off a guy i know. came back like this! images deleted Yeah, I love the look of these wheels, yours are the rarer 4 stud versions mine are 5x100. I was going to refurb them myself but depends who did yours and how much for. Did they do the centres too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leonard 0 Posted June 5, 2010 then sent them off a guy i know. came back like this! Who's the guy? :grin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 5, 2010 no just the dishes im affraid the barrels were in real good nik had to replace the center caps too as they were fcuked! cost me 20 quid per dish to get them to a perfect mirror finish tried doing them myself but was a ball ache to get rid of the grainy lines splitting them down and refitting was fun as never done it before...turned out well though luckily-no leaks :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dukest 0 Posted June 5, 2010 i would doubt if an 8in ET40 wheel would clear the suspension. Oh no! Really? Whats the best setup then? Dont know if it helps mate, but mine are 17x7.5 ET30 and i have an easy cm room to spare in the arches. I would have thought ET40 8 inch would fit ok but you may have to roll the arches. the only reason for saying it is that an ET40 wheel will be 5mm closer to the suspension (ie. less clearance on the inner side of the wheel, not from the outer side to the arch). and then if its an 8in vs a 7.5in then it is 12-13mm wider overall, or 6+mm wider either side. so, in total, an 8in ET40 wheel will be 11mm or more closer to the suspension than the ET35 7.5in wheel. arch clearance would be fine with this, and you say they're rolled anyway, but its the other side you need to be thinking about with high offsets - ie clearance on the springs of your suspension. obviously it partly depends what tyres you're running too and if you have more than about 12mm with at least some suspension compression then you'll be ok, just saying its worth checking thats all. normal ET for an 8in wheel would be more like 32 (or halfway between 30 and 35 as Coullstar was saying.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 5, 2010 Who's the guy? :grin: Andrew Handshaw Unit 3, Metherell Avenue, Brixham, Devon TQ5 9QB 01803 882130 top bloke sure he would mind if you sent them in the post otherwise i just dropped them off in person :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 5, 2010 Will keep him in mind if i get bored of refurbing the ZW1's. Just checked my front wheel and I seem to have roughly 15mm clearance from rim and strut. Im on coilovers so I may have more clearance? I will have a think about it and figure out what adaptors to go for. Had a new part arrive today, been on the look out for one for ages and finally got one........OE centre console gauge. Will get it wired up soon but looks great in the car! :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 6, 2010 hey dude replied to your pm these are the tools i used to split the wheels....worked out great :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 7, 2010 thanks, im sure i tried a 9mm and 10mm socket but they didnt fit well and did want to risk damaging the chrome bolts. will look again later Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 7, 2010 yeah should do as long as its a spline socket :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borarob 0 Posted June 7, 2010 just to add some info re sizes and offsets. my wheels are 8" ET35, needed at least 10mm of spacing (i put 15mm on, soon to be 20mm). I'm on coils.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackflash 0 Posted June 14, 2010 Did your ZW1s come with the factory spacers? If so you should end up with et35. All ZW1s come from the factory as et60, RH just send the right adapter for the car, so if the previous owner specced them for a rado they'll be spacers which give et-25. So you end up with et35 once the adapetrs are on (et60 - 25) if that makes sense. Any more positive et than 35 and you'll start having issues with the car fouling suspension components, any more negative and the wheels will stick out of the arches quite a bit (I run et35 and the wheel face sticks out a few mm more than the arch but the car is ok legality-wise as the tyre is stretched and therefore the tread sits behind the arch line. Standard width is 8" and at this width regarding ride height you can run them pretty much fine on the back even slammed but the fronts will rub if your arches are standard and you go low. Be sensible and they'll be fine, run them like I did at Stonor and GTI Fest (see pic) and they'll rub over all bumps and even when you corner...! Hope that helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 14, 2010 Did your ZW1s come with the factory spacers? If so you should end up with et35. All ZW1s come from the factory as et60, RH just send the right adapter for the car, so if the previous owner specced them for a rado they'll be spacers which give et-25. So you end up with et35 once the adapetrs are on (et60 - 25) if that makes sense. Any more positive et than 35 and you'll start having issues with the car fouling suspension components, any more negative and the wheels will stick out of the arches quite a bit (I run et35 and the wheel face sticks out a few mm more than the arch but the car is ok legality-wise as the tyre is stretched and therefore the tread sits behind the arch line. Standard width is 8" and at this width regarding ride height you can run them pretty much fine on the back even slammed but the fronts will rub if your arches are standard and you go low. Be sensible and they'll be fine, run them like I did at Stonor and GTI Fest (see pic) and they'll rub over all bumps and even when you corner...! Hope that helps thanks Jack, they arent new and didnt come with the standard adaptors. I did just buy some rh spacer, unfortunately now after reading your info I think i may have the wrong spec. have ordered 20mm and 30mm spacer making et 40 and et 30. will just suck it and see when they turn up. My arches are rolled so may help. plus im still on 16v rear cross member which is narrower than the vr6 version so may have some slight differences to you. Must say your wheels look great against the blue. I have decided after stripping the paint off one ready for polishing to go colour coded with maybe some gold plated bolts. keeping the polished rims obv what tyre width are you using? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 14, 2010 . All ZW1s come from the factory as et60 are you sure?? mine have a 35et standard Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 14, 2010 . All ZW1s come from the factory as et60 are you sure?? mine have a 35et standard wow really? Ive always known them to be et 60 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted June 14, 2010 Pretty sure all are ET60 then the RH specific adaptors work as mentioned above. Should be fine with a 5mm spacer behind the spacer which will take you back to ET35. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wastegate86 0 Posted June 14, 2010 Hmmm thats odd im sure mine arn't et60 will have to check now when i get home :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackflash 0 Posted June 15, 2010 Did your ZW1s come with the factory spacers? If so you should end up with et35. All ZW1s come from the factory as et60, RH just send the right adapter for the car, so if the previous owner specced them for a rado they'll be spacers which give et-25. So you end up with et35 once the adapetrs are on (et60 - 25) if that makes sense. Any more positive et than 35 and you'll start having issues with the car fouling suspension components, any more negative and the wheels will stick out of the arches quite a bit (I run et35 and the wheel face sticks out a few mm more than the arch but the car is ok legality-wise as the tyre is stretched and therefore the tread sits behind the arch line. Standard width is 8" and at this width regarding ride height you can run them pretty much fine on the back even slammed but the fronts will rub if your arches are standard and you go low. Be sensible and they'll be fine, run them like I did at Stonor and GTI Fest (see pic) and they'll rub over all bumps and even when you corner...! Hope that helps thanks Jack, they arent new and didnt come with the standard adaptors. I did just buy some rh spacer, unfortunately now after reading your info I think i may have the wrong spec. have ordered 20mm and 30mm spacer making et 40 and et 30. will just suck it and see when they turn up. My arches are rolled so may help. plus im still on 16v rear cross member which is narrower than the vr6 version so may have some slight differences to you. Must say your wheels look great against the blue. I have decided after stripping the paint off one ready for polishing to go colour coded with maybe some gold plated bolts. keeping the polished rims obv what tyre width are you using? I wouldn't worry too much, just have to see when you get the spacers as you say. With rolled arches et30 should be ok and even et40 might work, but that all depends on the coilovers you're using. As Coullstar recommended though, I'd probably just put a 5mm spacer on there. My tyres are 205/40s, but I'd be interested to see if 215/35s would result in you having more/less tyre rub Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 17, 2010 well, been a bit lazy and have only stripped one RH wheel down. Took most of the paint off ready to polish up the centres but thinking I may go colour coded....still to decide. Bought some new suspension mounts/bushes today, hopefully will tighten the handling up even more. 1J0412249 - Bearing 357412331A strut mounting (vr6 version) 191512335 - rear mount 191512333 - rear mount and the following to help wire up the OE centre console 1JO972704 4 pin plug 000979133E - wire set Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 19, 2010 Replaced the leaking rear strut yesterday for the MOT later this morning. First one since the 24v swap so am apprehensive but heres hoping Took it out for a drive yesterday with the new rear bushes and the "cough" jamex rear struts. Handles much better now but is a bit too firm for my aging body so will start to consider what suspension to go for. Would need to try some out first before shedding out on a decent kit. I looked at air ride, but this comes in at £3k!! I like the idea of being low for general driving and then raise it up for bad roads and speed bumps.....may have to make my own hydraulic setup me thinks Any way, wish me luck today Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted June 19, 2010 Good luck for the mot chap. Had considered air ride for mine cause I want to lower but my estate has massive humps so struggle at the minute to clear them. So air ride was a solution but just too expensive at the minute. Anyway looks like you have done a good job on the conversion so sure no probs with that :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 19, 2010 cheers lifuzzer Well guys and gals....it failed the MOT :mad2: .....offside parking like not working!......so I went away and sorted it out, took it back and.......it passed! :clap: The guy testing was very complementary, and we chatted for a bit. A few minor advisories inc slightly corroded pipes so will put that on the list of things to sort out before the next test What I was most please is the emissions, decatted I got 0.21% CO and 231ppm Hydrocarbons. The max allowed were 3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC! So my worrying about the emission test wasnt needed. :luvlove: Still not happy with how firm the rear jamex struts are, makes the whole car ride like a go kart. any one got any good sugestions with coilovers that are close to OE comfort? :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Donjon 0 Posted June 20, 2010 I have heard good things about kw v2 if you adjust the rebound setting slightly they are supposed to be quite compliant. I have never tried them myself though! I am really going to take my time deciding which coilovers to get as i am sure you are aware fen roads are terrible on hard suspension! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 20, 2010 cheers lifuzzer Well guys and gals....it failed the MOT :mad2: .....offside parking like not working!......so I went away and sorted it out, took it back and.......it passed! :clap: The guy testing was very complementary, and we chatted for a bit. A few minor advisories inc slightly corroded pipes so will put that on the list of things to sort out before the next test What I was most please is the emissions, decatted I got 0.21% CO and 231ppm Hydrocarbons. The max allowed were 3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC! So my worrying about the emission test wasnt needed. :luvlove: Still not happy with how firm the rear jamex struts are, makes the whole car ride like a go kart. any one got any good sugestions with coilovers that are close to OE comfort? :shrug: Not sure if its what suits you, but Dukest has Koni TAs and H&R springs and the ride is more comfortable than normal, with the added bonuses of better handling and better looks. Just a thought? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites