Why does my VR stall so much!!!

[PhatVR6 0]

OK, I used to try and get around this by bumping it off all the time, or blipping the throttle, but now that become downright annoying, and I'l SO f*cked off with it cutting out nearly every time I dip the clutch.

 

I know it's not the flywheel, as 3 guys on vortex have a 6lb flywheel with no stalling issues at all.

 

No error codes

 

coil pack is brand new

 

tried 2 different crank sensors

 

did it with the schrick, and without.

 

no air leaks

 

exhaust blows ever so slightly.

 

it's not like it just drops the revs a bit. its as if every time I hit the clutch when down shifting it feels like I've turned the ignition off, and sometimes when I go to bump it of fit's like hitting the brakes!

 

b4stard thing is doing my head in now, it's a c*nt to drive around town.

 

any clues?

 

can I up the idle speed with vag-com?

 

I have another ISV to try too.

 

[/i]

[dinkus 10]

Dead/dying MAF that's not showing up on VAG-COM?

[CazzaVR 0]

Have you tried changing the throttle bellows/dashpot thingy?

 

Think Kev did this a while back and cured his stalling.

[dazzyvr6 0]

mines the oposite,my revs drop to slow when i dip the clutch...and thats annoying to sometimes

[vr6dom 0]

Have you tried changing your ignition switch first?

 

Check the small vacuum hose that goes in to the fr/right corner of the inlet manifold/your VGI for any splits/holes.

 

Try swapping the ISV or clean yours with carb. cleaner.

 

Hopefully not a faulty MAF sensor as expensive. If just a dirty sensor from induction cone use try some carb cleaner. Think the Bentley w/manual has a check you can do I. Worth checking no damage to the wires on the connector wires or any visible corrosion on the pins when you unplug it.

 

Late '94s have the factory immobiliser but if she starts ok that cancels that one out.

 

Hope you get it sorted as can imagine you fustration :mad:

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I had the same. So many things were changed and/or checked that it's impossible to say with absolute certainty what it was , but the biggest improvement by far came when the wiring to the lambda probe was sorted out. It still threatens to stall very very occasionally, usually after a few minutes of light throttle running followed by dipping the clutch at a junction or traffic lights, but more often than not it gets caught in time.

 

Especially if it's using lots of fuel as well, I suggest you look at your lambda probe and the associated wiring.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[PhatVR6 0]

tried it with a different MAF, still stalls.

 

dashpot is adjusted correctly, and it does it's job of stopping the throttle snapping shut too.

 

hmm, ignition swithc, never even thought of that! if does feel like it's being turned off rather than stalling actually.

 

it has no factory immobiliser.

 

the lambda probe is still the 8v one, could be an issue there. also, I had to replace the connector for it, as it had been cut off the loom I used, so that definitely could be a suspect area as there's no sheilding for th last 2" of the loom up tot he connector.

 

I'll clean out my spare ISV and fit that, along with the original hose instead of the bigger diameter samco one in case that's affecting air speed at all.

[stel g60 0]

dunno if this sounds stupid phat but you said your running a standard 8v exhaust, is it a lot smaller than the vr6 one? could it be building up too much pressure?

[PhatVR6 0]

hardly, it's blowing like f*ck!! I bet there's no back pressure at all seeing as most of the gas seems to blow out where it joins the left had cat (syncro exhuast, has 2 cats).

 

it's another problem to adress though, which I shall get round to sorting.

[Scott 0]

I suspect you fix the problems you have mentioned and you'll find the cause.........

[dan 0]

Mine used to stall when I approached a junction or lights etc.. I removed & cleaned the ISV... & to my amazemen the problem was completely cured. The car runs really smooth ever since... so I'd say clean out & try your spare ISV

 

Good Luck

[vr6storm 0]

you checked the ECU relay or fuel pump relay?? also worth checking all the fuses too

[VR6 0]

mines the oposite,my revs drop to slow when i dip the clutch...and thats annoying to sometimes

 

Changed throttle cable recently?

[STORM 2 0]

it has no factory immobiliser.

 

I thought all 94 cars had factory immobilisers - unless you bypassed or removed it yourself?

[vr6storm 0]

it has no factory immobiliser.

 

I thought all 94 cars had factory immobilisers - unless you bypassed or removed it yourself?

 

 

i think the factory immobiliser was in the ECU and as Phat is using the ECU from the engine that he had previously in another motor it shouldn't be a factor

[Roger Blassberg 0]

My '94 VR6 (R coded chassis number) does not have a factory-fitted immobiliser.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[PhatVR6 0]

'95 cars have immobilisers.

 

throtlle cable was changed for brand new geuine vag one about 3 months ago.

 

I think it's the ISV. it appears to be working, but becasue the revs drop so fast due to lightened flywheel and turn2 pulley it just can't kick in fast enough to catch the falling revs.

 

I'll clean out and fit the other ISV, and put the factory hoses back on, and wind the throttle dmaper up as far as it'll go without holding the butterfly open.

 

it's alos worth nothing that the ECU relay is a different number to a vr6 one....but I don't know what that would cause?

 

typically, I manged to drive 5 miles through town yesterday and it didn't stall once. but seeming it does it at the exact same spots on my journeies to and from work each day....weird.

[Henny 0]

any mobile phone masts/ big satellite dishes close by the points it stalls at?!? ;) :lol:

[PhatVR6 0]

probably....

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Connect the ISV up to 12V and pulse the connection several times. If any of the pulses causes the valve to jam open or shut. That's the problem.

 

Overcleaning the Valves doesn't help matters. It dries them out. A bit of oil mist from the breather system helps keep it moving freely and if it's a really bad, just lose the ISV altogether. Plenty of auxillary air valves out there that can be used instead.

[Guest]

Use VAG-COM to datalog the ISV duty cycle (measuring block 005 IIRC) on as high a sample rate as possible. Then drive as normal to a point when it stalls. You should be able to discover whether the ISV is reacting correctly to a duff control input or whether it is not reacting correctly or quickly enough to a normal control input.

[craigowl 0]

For what its worth, when I finally fitted the last 2 Samco hoses of the kit of 7, there was no deterioration whatsoever in the car's performance - eg stalling or lowering idling speed.

[Guest]

Another thought - you say the exhaust is blowing close to one of the CATs? Is this break upstream of, or close to, the lambda probe?

 

While you're on open loop during DFS, it may be that excess air in the exhaust is causing the lambda probe to see a lean condition during the transition to closed loop and thus the ECU is closing the ISV too far to compensate.

 

Again, use VAG-COM to datalog your lambda values (block 006) when it stalls - if it shows a lean condtion, cross reference with the ISV duty cycle to see how the ECU is reacting.

[PhatVR6 0]

my laptop battery is dea, so I can't use vag-com right now. but i think you may be riaght in saying it's the ISV or due tot he blowing exhaust.