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mooG60

Radiator Top Flange Leaking

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That's getting a bit more palatable

 

Will be a busy day on the phone tomorrow I fear.

 

Thank you chaps!!

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Like fend said though worth asking them the brand they have in stock Hella would be a big yes.

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Any idea who makes the VW Heritage version by chance?

 

My heart wants to wait and buy from there, so that way if there is any issues with the flange they have no real excuse and I can send it all back to them.

 

Having said that I don't want to possibly pay another 50 quid over the odds.

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Don’t think that if it is from VW Heritage that it is top notch some of their parts are great but some are exspensive and bottom of the range , ring that rad company and ask what brand it is . I tend to use heritage for Vw classics Germany , all other parts I try to source Febi,Bilstein, Bosch, Lemforder, Hella etc , topran and such is the last resort and parts with euro flags that don’t even tell you the source of the part or manufacturer.

Edited by Keyo

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Ok thanks for the advice Keyo.

 

I will make some calls in the morning and see what is available.

 

Thank you all!!

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When you say "crack pipe" what part do you mean mate?

 

The crack pipe as some of us call it is a plastic pipe which runs from the block to the thermostat housing. Well worth changing if the radiator is being replaced. You can’t get to it when the rad is fitted. Yours is probably old , it’s Sod’s law that when you replace one part another will break. You don’t want to fit a new rad and have to remove it again .

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The crack pipe as some of us call it is a plastic pipe which runs from the block to the thermostat housing. Well worth changing if the radiator is being replaced. You can’t get to it when the rad is fitted. Yours is probably old , it’s Sod’s law that when you replace one part another will break. You don’t want to fit a new rad and have to remove it again .

 

Yeah, would totally second all this. With the radiator off it's also easy to get at all the temp sensors, and in addition to the thermostat housing, pipe and stat, it's worth looking at the oil cooler/heat exchanger, and either replace it altogether if original or at least consider replacing the two small coolant hoses to it and the seals to the block, as these are a common source of oil leaks.

 

The parts bill will seem expensive at first, but when you consider that for access to any of these areas you need to remove the bumper, lock carrier and radiator it makes sense - and with cooling systems, once you renew one part, this seems to inevitably lead to a failure somewhere else in the chain.

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Its strange that they supply blanks to fit where the senders should go . I ordered a full kit from VW , when i went to collect it the bloke from the car parts counter put these on the desk . I said to him that i ordered the senders , he said thats what fits in the block . I had to explain to him , that they dont and that the senders fit in the block.

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Don’t think that if it is from VW Heritage that it is top notch some of their parts are great but some are exspensive and bottom of the range , ring that rad company and ask what brand it is . I tend to use heritage for Vw classics Germany , all other parts I try to source Febi,Bilstein, Bosch, Lemforder, Hella etc , topran and such is the last resort and parts with euro flags that don’t even tell you the source of the part or manufacturer.

 

If you check in the bottom right corner of the listing on each item, it tells you if its a genuine classic part or aftermarket. Worth calling as you get forum discount as well, and you won't pay shipping if ordered through them rather than direct from classic parts. The downside is that they only get their deliveries every 3 weeks or so, so dependant on when you make the order and their next scheduled shipment you could be waiting a while for it to arrive.

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Thanks you all for the good advice.

 

I will do as suggested and renew the other parts as well. Got to get my hands on a rad yet, but I got stitched at work with some long gruelling shifts and have had to put it all on the back burner for a few days.

 

I know that there is the 3 pin sender that fits in to the radiator, but is there any other water temp sensors I need to consider on the car please guys?

 

 

 

I

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Yes , there are three in the block , near the thermostat housing.

 

Again, this is a G60 is it not MooG60?

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Again, this is a G60 is it not MooG60?

 

Yes it is, G60 J reg non Air Con.

 

(Sorry for late response, been really busy with work)

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Found an AVA at £93 so that's not to bad.

 

AVA are supposed to be a decent brand (I hope). I've ordered click and collect from the argos around the corner from me. If something else turns up in it's place I will just send it straight back at them.

 

They state AVA on their item description so Ebay will have to refund if I complain.

 

Let's hope for the best. Might even buy the other one in preparation for the next project looming.

 

 

 

*Edit*

 

As expected, the Ebay seller messaged me stating the rad they received was damaged!

Edited by mooG60

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Hi keep getting the odd spurt of coolant leaking out of this flange can see it on bonnet - first fitted aftermarket- now got an original not sure if the seal is genuine so have ordered one - what torque should these bolts be please maybe I have them to tight  ? I take it I’m putting the o ring in the correct place ? Thanks red circle shows where I’m putting o ring . 

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Edited by Keyo

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I think you've got the o-ring in the right place. I always thought it was an odd place to seal as it doesn't get really clamped by the bolts.

What Rad have you got? If I recall you got one of the last available aftermarket brand ones? I had a GSF radiator at one point and it was a very poor seal... The plastic housing was slightly too big so the elbow wasn't a tight fit. When I replaced with a Hella version a couple of years ago the difference was instantly noticeable, so it could be the rad rather than the seal.

In the end all I could do was smear gasket sealant around where the two faces met.

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9 minutes ago, oneohtwo said:

I think you've got the o-ring in the right place. I always thought it was an odd place to seal as it doesn't get really clamped by the bolts.

What Rad have you got? If I recall you got one of the last available aftermarket brand ones? I had a GSF radiator at one point and it was a very poor seal... The plastic housing was slightly too big so the elbow wasn't a tight fit. When I replaced with a Hella version a couple of years ago the difference was instantly noticeable, so it could be the rad rather than the seal.

In the end all I could do was smear gasket sealant around where the two faces met.

Thanks mate it’s actually for the g60 which the devils use the same flange as a vr6 - radiator Is obsolete like that of a vr6 - rad is 5 years old and a Hella - could anyone recommend a good gasket seal if new genuine o ring fails - maybe I have the bolts too tight would love to know the torque settings - cheers  

 

im not sure why they even designed  this top rad flange - Mk2 rads are so much stronger . 

Edited by Keyo

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That is in the right place. Unless it is lubed, the dry seal tight fit can distort. Definitely worth the new genuine parts. The torque value is really low, but I am trying to survive prague 🍻 at the moment.  Happy to check the Bentley when back, but I am sure someone will post up 1st

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