One way valve on fuel pump/pipes

[_Matt_ 26]

Hi Guys,

Has anyone got the link (or knowledge) to which pipe the one way valve (mod) is installed on the fuel pump area?

I want to check mine has gone back together right. It's currently installed on the outward flow to the engine but I thought it was meant to be installed on the return pipe to the pump. I can't remember how I installed it.

Car won't start.. 

 

 

[Cressa 43]

37 minutes ago, pfnsht said:

Hi Guys,

Has anyone got the link (or knowledge) to which pipe the one way valve (mod) is installed on the fuel pump area?

I want to check mine has gone back together right. It's currently installed on the outward flow to the engine but I thought it was meant to be installed on the return pipe to the pump. I can't remember how I installed it.

Car won't start.. 

 

 

Never done it mate. Are you sure the valve is facing the correct way in the fuel line anyway. Just a thought. 

This is on my long list of to do's.. goodluck

[_Matt_ 26]

Yeah i popped it on there before i had all thre engine work done. I used to have a warm start issue which it resolved!

I've been out messing again and rigged up a bit of pipe to the pump. The pump is a vdo item only a year old and its making lots of noise. I've come to the conclusion the car is out of fuel! The tank was dropped with the work done. The bodyshop put some in but i am hoping there is a certain amount thst needs to be put in for the the pump to pick up.

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[easypops 8]

I put mine together in the last couple of weeks, fortunately mine has worked ok. I’ll get a few pictures of what you want tomorrow if you can wait until then.

Oops, my bad, I misread, I don’t have a one way valve on mine. 
Daft question but is your fuel filter facing the right direction? 

 

Edited October 3, 2020 by easypops
Tiredness 🤣

[seanl82 23]

I think Fla put pics of the check valve setup on his members gallery. Maybe worth having a search through.

[fendervg 29]

The one way valve should go the feed line to the engine with the flow direction arrow pointing toward the engine. This keeps the residual pressure from dropping over time.

Same for the fuel filter.

Also worth checking the fuel pressure regulator.

[fla 9]

pfnsht some pics of my install - they're not the best tbh, but hope they help

 

Hasan

Edited October 3, 2020 by fla

[fendervg 29]

I think it’s on my thread as well. I’ll see if I can find it.

There’s been plenty of discussion in the past on this if you search. Originally it was a VW retrofit fix to stop leak down via the feed pipe.

There wouldn’t be any point fitting a NRV on the return, as that is the fuel pressure regulators job.

[_Matt_ 26]

Thanks guys! Yes that is my setup too. The noise I was hearing was then central locking pump. I've now tested the fuel pump and stuck a 100 relay in 167 and am getting fuel the rail.

 

No signs of starting though. I havent got a spare spark plug to test spark.

 

Worryingly my computer will not connect to the engine module. I have a swg scuttle installed so need to get it off to get at the ECU to see if its corroded etc.

 

For now though we a house move 2 weeks away the car is being sent back to the bodyshop. Unfortunately when the swg was installed the rain guard above the cabin air duct was thrown out so water has entered from there. Fortunately the car is stripped interior wise.

 

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[1xshaunx1 27]

Worryingly my computer will not connect to the engine module. I have a swg scuttle installed so need to get it off to get at the ECU to see if its corroded etc.
 

I’d be under there first. I don’t think I could sleep until I’d checked out the Ecu 

[Keyo 47]

This was my concern with an aftermarket scuttle it may do more harm then good if not tested thoroughly to see water displacement ends up- cant see how it would direct it to the ecu but who knows !  Maybe there is a reason VW didn't make a complete scuttle tray for the Corrado alike that to a Mk2 golf,

On my Mk2 golf the the ecu trim cover was missing and I had really bad issues starting up the car - Vince spotted it straight away and showed the plug connector was basically green ha - thankfully got an ecu trim cover second hand as they are obsolete and the ecu for KR are about only £30,00 second hand and always a few for sale on ebay- I think the VR ones are rather expensive second hand . 

 

Edited October 3, 2020 by Keyo

[_Matt_ 26]

Yeah the SWG definitely needs the oem cover over the cabin vent thingy - water just pours into it from the swg.

As for the ECU ill take a look tomorrow. The car hasn't been outside until yesterday but the issue was there before hand. It could be a crusty ecu connector as the car has been laid up since Feb, last run 2 months ago when it blew off the baffle box. 

Crank sensor is a culpritt for baffle box explosions. But I have swapped mine out for another bosch part. Could also be faulty. But not being able to read the engine module go me thinking ecu.

Hope not as it is remapped by stealth but we shall see.

 

[Keyo 47]

54 minutes ago, pfnsht said:

Yeah the SWG definitely needs the oem cover over the cabin vent thingy - water just pours into it from the swg.

As for the ECU ill take a look tomorrow. The car hasn't been outside until yesterday but the issue was there before hand. It could be a crusty ecu connector as the car has been laid up since Feb, last run 2 months ago when it blew off the baffle box. 

Crank sensor is a culpritt for baffle box explosions. But I have swapped mine out for another bosch part. Could also be faulty. But not being able to read the engine module go me thinking ecu.

Hope not as it is remapped by stealth but we shall see.

 

I've got a feeling its something small like the plug is not housed into the ecu fully. Fingers crossed. 

[_Matt_ 26]

Just an update really. Got soaked.

I think the ECU is OK. Clean contacts and i am getting 12v the the coil and maf.

There are loads of new parts on this car, inc the coil which has a heat spacing plate installed too. The fuel pump is new and the injectors are refurbed.

I'm going back to the crank sensor in my mind. I have two sensors. One is a topran which I bought before I had all the engine work done when trying to solve the warm start issue and the original bosch one (currently installed).

How can you test the crank sensor with a multimeter? The plug doesn't allow you to back probe it with the multi.

I guess the sparks could be gunked but again they are 2 years old but less than 1000 miles use on them.

Air lock in the fuel rail? Fuel pours out from the fuel pipe at the rail on disconnecting.

Humphhhh.

Not quite the exciting reunting with my car. The plan was to reinstall the interior and get it MOTd and finally enjoy it. But nope.



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[fla 9]

have you checked for a spark? Pull one of the plugs after trying to crank it and see if its wet with fuel or hot from ignition.  If its dry and cool it could be your ecu relay 109 which shuts power to both injectors and sparks.  So you'd still get fuel in the rail but the injectors wont be opening.  Take the relay out and apply 12v directly and see if it closes.  

Crank sensor has some resistance readings, but i'm not sure what they are - maybe someone can advise?  The alternative is to connect it to a meter and wave a piece of steel in front of it and see if you get a reading

 

Also your fuel pressure regulator - may be goosed although i doubt it would prevent firing up.  I think the first plan is to check the spark plugs after turning the engine over.  I would check and clean the sparks too -  a friend's vr had new sparks and wouldn't fire.  Turned out they were all gunked up from repeated trying and standing still for about 6 months.  Cleaned them up, gave it an Italian tune up and all back to normal..

Edited October 4, 2020 by fla

[_Matt_ 26]

Thanks fla, hopefully I'll get some to look at this before it goes back today. My relay 109 is good but defo a good shout to pull the plugs. The car has stood for a while and people have tried to start it multiple times. 

 

[_Matt_ 26]

All fixed. It was the crank sensor. My original bosch one was clearly bust as I replaced it with a cheapo topran version i had kicking about she's running.

The engine was noisey and took an hour to quiten down fully but we're back to the smooth VR6 sound now.

Thanks everyone for the help! 

Matt

[1xshaunx1 27]

Nice one Matt, when you said you couldn’t connect to the Ecu and mentioned water getting under the scuttle I feared the worst for you as well as electrical problems being notorious to pin down. Good to here it’s fixed after a few checks and your first shot at it. 

[_Matt_ 26]

Yeah i was fearing the worst too! My OBDelevan connected today so guess it was a bluetooth issue or something. 

Car is going back to the bodyshop, they're going to tack weld the handbrake (must hvae come off whilst loading) and they're going to get it MOTd for me as well. No hard feelings with my bopdyshop they've gone above and beyond. Just bad luck on on old cars.

 

[fendervg 29]

That's great to hear - yes, a broken CPS will result in no start or intermittent starting if it's only on its way out, as the ECU won't be able to tell that the engine is turning over and won't fire the injectors and ignition.  Bear in mind, that it will always show a fault if you scan with VCDS with just the ignition on and the engine not turning - it will go away when the engine is running.

[Cressa 43]

On 10/6/2020 at 12:11 PM, pfnsht said:

All fixed. It was the crank sensor. My original bosch one was clearly bust as I replaced it with a cheapo topran version i had kicking about she's running.

The engine was noisey and took an hour to quiten down fully but we're back to the smooth VR6 sound now.

Thanks everyone for the help! 

Matt

Well done in sorting 👍