jekel

VCDS? That's Vagcom? My local mechanic had but his garage got broken into just before Christmas and all that stuff stolen, not yet replaced, so out for mo. Basically wind it in until Dashpot is damping it but not holding the tickover yeah? i.e. as sson as wind dashpot up at idle and revs. increasing that's too far, so dashpot fully closed and throttle stop basically hitting at same time, that seems logical?

As title really, just ordered a new one, old one past it's best, there's a thread seen on here about the Bentley set up procedure but then didn't say what it is. Anyone know? It's just had a new engine, original dashpot, and it's prob. been adjusted up anyway to compensate for reduced damping over years so just adjusting where old one was would'nt do it. Cheers

Pretty much but really need it road tested to notice difference and is yours off road? If no improvement or runs worse lambda's malfunctioning, car will run happilly in garage without it though don't think if it doesn't cut out it's fine. Mines only 2 years w old but couple of valves guides slightly leaky on old engine, hence new engine, and I'm thinking might have got oiled/carbonned up, probs be fine with a clean but a pig to get out, might as well lob a new one in if going to trouble

On that link and pic. the wrong one is exactly what got, and the right one looks exactly what the Mann is, so looks like probs genuine but simply got the wrong one, I'll have look at part number when comes out, was advertised as Golf to be fair but part number cross ref. as ABV Corrado. Think ya've answered that one mate, cheers

Funny enough I've just borrowed my mates spare MAF, and put on, on face of it both fine but suspect mines not 100%, mpg just dropped a little bit, (went from bout 20 on old engine to 28-35 on new, now dropped few mpg) and feel not 100% on partial throttle, perfect on full. I tell ya if makes difference when take it out. I'd say it was more likely Lambda, but MAF only bit has'nt been brand new in last 2 years, and lot easier to change than lambda. (I'm dead picky mind when say not 100% it's probs 95 but anything that ain't perfect mechanically annoys me)

Just looked at that pic mate, straight away can see diff to the supposed VW one, that's like the MANN metal body, top etc. (aluminium think) and ya can see the metal drilled hole frame thing inside, holding the filter stuff in. My supposed VW one is plastic body and ends andd no metal retaining mesh inside. The ****ers coming straight out. Bet yours has got the valve inside. Same box! Same markings and there the similarity ends. I get one of those but these MANN's seem bang on, same quality as Hengst/VW. Think I'll only lose bout half pint of oil changing filter, having had the housing off before on old engine, so at least not full oil change again, expensive new oil in it. On bright side stole a mint NARDI steering wheel on Ebay for 20 quid, so swings and roundabouts, and I'll have a mint MOMO 320mm spare if anyone needs one when arrives.

Has it been outside all the time? I'd deffo be checking ECU plug, the standard VW covers not much cop there, also heard bout water running down wire on to MAF plug but sure ya've checked that. I'd deffo be changing fuel filter too given time car been standing, i'd do it every couple of years anyway, and that would give your symptons if partially blocked, but you'd prob. hear pump straining. Feel pump relay whhen running, is it getting too hot, should never be more than slightly warm, also pump connections under inspection plate in boot worth a look. I'd deffo have throttle body out and full clean with carb cleaner too. Should be slightly black at most and come straight off with spray off carbon cleaner

I tried but it won't show up, it's right in the middle, the supposed VW one got (I've put it in as needed car on weekend but it's coming straight back out in an hour) nothing in centre can see straight through, MANN one (old one which slung and new one) can't see through, gauze on one end (like fuel filter gauze), and metal body of valve on other. Sure previous VW and Hengst ones (which are one in same)had. If you can seee daylight through centre there's no valve, if not there is basically. Know the VR6 has non return valve in block too but sure genuine and good filters should also have. Had Golf GTi years back that sounded like bag of hammers on first start uo because a mechanic at service used a cheap filter. Mine is quiet as mouse at start up and otherwise now, but it is a brand new, well fully pro reconned and rebuilt engine, just doing firstt oil chhange at less than 1000 miles so don't want to take any risks with dodgy filters.

Think I've missed boat for first 10 but I'll have one of the next batch

I've got strut braces front and rear which I'd recommend, and make sure you've got good drop links, Meyhles are good, cheap and easy parts to change, 30 minute job, I put big beefy washers either side of the rubber too, to restict the movement a little more, good upgrade, R32 rubbers on the suspension arms a must in my book, but are a pig to fit, probs easier to buy new arms with them already fitted

Mines got the aftermarket cover panel thing, type that covers the whole scuttle panel thing , but with that can just lift the rubber strip off lift up and can get to ecu no bother. VW one should be easier, only covers bit of panel doesn't it? Bit fiddle first time but once get knack out in couple of minutes, one nut at front, slide out grommets, there's a certain angle, bracket first and it's out. Not describing that very well but hopefully be clear when try it. Most importantly don't force the ecu multiplug, there's a large plastic clip you pull towards front, might be stiff if never been off and dirty, bit of WD40 maybe, until clip all way forward it ain't coming off

Got a VW supposed genuine VR6 oil filter online. There's no non return valve in it, far as I'm aware all VW VR6 ones should have, the MANN one just took out has, and looks really well made, I've just been to Europarts and bought another one. I'm just about to complain to company but thought check my facts first. It's marked VW and Hengst etc., but sure previous VW ones sure had the valve. It's also plastic body and fitting, MANN is metal. Suspect a ropey copy.

3.5 degrees camber on front handles like a go kart, but eats tyres, and scrubs a bit on straight, tremendous turn in on tight corners, 2 degrees a good compromise I think, got that and 1.75 on back, really depends on roads/corners your looking at, but good all round, got zero toe in/ toe out. 17's with 205 40's and Koni's (very stiff)

Throttle Position Sensor, on the throttle body. Disconnect the blue temp sensor too, should default to 70 degrees, any improvement? Test the ohms, there's things on here tell you what should be at 0 degrees, 100 etc., I'd go through simple, easy and cheap things first. Fuel filter ok, pump straining at all? Fuel relay ok, 109 relay ok? ECU connector and multiplug connector ok?

Told ya it would come out go in/come out ok, I would'nt have oiled seals, bit of WD at most, if your having to force it, it needs heating. I know as I did exactingly the same as you and most until tried heat, amazing difference makes, same goes for crack pipe and anything push in rubber fit. Most common things are crank sensor and cam sensor. Crank will normally be a non starter but not always, get both out check seated right, just put new engine and every new sensor in mine, started just after numerous efforts would'nt idle, when had look at everything my mate had put crank in in bad light, a mm of the old sealing ring cracked off still in there, sensor sitting mm too far out and that was whole prob. If ya not prepared to renew every sensor, MAF, coilpack etc. like I did it'll be cheaper to have VAGcommed. The lambda doesn't kick in for bout 15 secs, does it run better for that 15 secs, unplug it does it run better? Unplug TPS, should notice big diff., but it'll still run, normally idle at about 3000, no diff. it or wiring knackered. Also fact MAF not totally kaput does'nt mean it's fine, can ya borrow another and try, lot of people keep spares. Lambda's a pig to change normally got to take pipe off, heat red hot, cut wires and get a socket on it, so I'd try the rst first, and if ya do change it check CAT isn't blocked, ideally decat it, good induction kit and remap it

If you had to force it in with a clamp pound to a penny you've wrecked the seal and hence not sitting right, heat it with a hairdryer, nothing hotter than that, pull it out, and heat the (new) seals till soft and should push straight in. If you've can't push in easily by hand there's something wrong and it'll damage. Sounds like the smaller inner seal isn't seating, outer one might stop it leaking out from fuel rail but doesn't mean it's right. They'll normally pull out OK when engine warm (warm not too hot) but will **** pressured fuel out so carefully does it, or release pressure at fuel hose

Is that one ecxactly as the picture when it arrived? Can see could easily make everything else fit ok, but what about the fit at pedal end, mines got the clip fit, not closed hook type?That looks same as the Europarts Pagid one, bout same price.

There's gotta be a one or several out there that fit. There's Delphi one LM39100 that looks right to me. So long as it'll fit the mounting holes, the clip /attachment will fit pedal, and the push rod "throw" is ok, should be fine. If have to use bolts instead of it coming with studs etc. I'm not too fussed. The old one is fine, no leaks or anything. It's more of a preventative thing, new clutch, new slave, seems shame not to renew final bit, so if got refurbished effectively throwing away a perfectly good spare.

Think I saw your post on that but really don't want to take off, send away, wait to come back etc.

Just replaced the clutch slave cylinder without any grief and thinking might as well renew the master too, and have it all new. The likes of Europarts do decent Pagid ones but it clearly looks like the 4 cylinder ones too me, it would probably fit bar my VR6 and every other I've seen has the clip attachment at pedal, this has a closed hook/loop attachment. I can find some decent quality ones on Ebay, LuK ETC. which look bang on, right attachment, no bleed nipple etc., listed for VR6 but when check the full listing catalogue as suggested, it's saying does not fit Corrado, and lists same loop attachment one, with bleed nipple for all Corrado's including the VR6. Mines a 94 VR6?

There was a bloke from East Anglia was trying to sell a green VR6 one on ebay for a while just recently, looked absolutely sweet, rebuilt engine box and ABS at Stealth, Schrick manifold and cams, thousands spent, looked really sweet honest car, wanted about 4800 or something at end which sounded absolute steal. Would have bought it like a shot had not just got new engine, box, and pretty much all new mechanicals for mine. Don't know if he sold it or just got sick and withdrew it. Search ebay under previous lisitings and should find and message him, worth a go. Think he had Schrick in title so search Schrick VR6 and won't be too many.

Looked terrible on photos, but your looking at in flesh and I'm just looking at a photo, so take your word for it, bad photo maybe. The flush wrecked your sensors ya say? What type of flush? Just put new engine in mine was going to flush whole system as matter of course, but giving it's also had new heater matrix, most of pipes, and really radiator's only bout 3 years old, and given your experience think I'll give that a miss. Sounds like your heater matrix is shafted, best change it, parts not expensive but pig to fit, can do without removing dashboard, I did, remember to take the metal bracket to left behind centre console and it'll come out, there's a thread on here somewhere that's good. You can get a caustic sode type of flush from memory but it's meant solely for radiators, when out car, that stuff might do ya sensors, though not even sure that's for public sale, think it's trade only.

The ends look nice and clean where pipe connects, presumably where been cleaned, but beyond that looks pretty nasty, has engine stood for a while are been ran with just water, I'd be giving it a pretty serious flushing of some kind, if was me.

Looking at the sliencer damper for ISV a while back looked like foam stuff inside was starting to break down, well it was'nt totally full (suppose have to look at new one to compare), anyway being a practical bloke I simply removed it and rerouted pipes so no ISV but no damper/silencer. Bit noisier but ran fine on old engine, now got new engine in it, running perfect from start, but just started giving trouble on tickover, only that initial second after taking foot of throttle when it's warm, if blip throttle to avoid that initial dying second it's fine. Anything to do with lack of silencer, does it do anything other than, well silence? Only other thing diff. at mo hasn't got a rear oil sender on filter housing, one that does the MFA, was leaking and Europarts gave me wrong one, so just got a front pressure one in unconnected purely to plug it. Have 2 ISV's tried both, both seem perfect, have spare blue temp sensor, swapped that, again both testing ok, made no diff., every sensor new on old engine within last 1000 miles and swapped onto new one, only thing slightly suspect is Lambda wanted Bosch one, gave me one that ran so rough had to disconnect, ended up with an FAE or something, never 100% happy with. MAF isn't new but never gave any sign of bother, looked newish when got car bout 3 years ago. Soon as got foot down pulls perfect. MFA is saying MPG plummetted, especially when cold, not sure it's as bad as it's reading, maybe lack of oil sensor screwing it up? With new eengine MPG was ave. bout 27, vast improvement on old eengine, mid 30's steady run, now dropped to 20-25. Any ideas?

Don't like the look of that block, never seen waterways that looks so corroded. What did you clean the end with, I'd smooth off with some 1000 grade, looks clean but very rough, and you don't want to oversize it. 1 tip heat the o ring on crack pipe with a hair dryer so it's soft and pliable and should push straight in,if your forcing it your damaging it.