jekel

That would make sense. Mine bled fine, it's working OK, pedal fine and returns fine but from feel isn't disengaging quite as far as was. If I bleed tomorrow with pressure bleeder tonight guarantee get no air out but it'll feel perfect and improved but maybe month or two later it'll feel OK but not perfect again, which suggests to me tiny bit of air sort of moving about in there. No leaks anywhere. Prefer pressure bleeder as normally it's only my wife on hand to pump pedal who'll start whinging she's bored after bout 30 secs, and is otherwise banned from the garage anyway, and don't like idea of pumping the pedal beyond it's normal movement, admittedly that doesn't really apply to clutch, more brakes. Heard lot of old mechanics say a lip will form on older master cylinders at normal full travel, push it past that when bleed and you'll normally wreck the seals on that lip. Every part of my brakes is new bar the master cylinder, just can't get a new one anywhere for love nor money, they're obsolete.

"When I had pretty much the same problem as the thread initiator it resulted in me changing the entire ABS pump unit inside the engine bay. It turned out that the actual pump itself had become weak. It's pretty much a sealed unit, obsolete, so you'll have to find a 2nd hand ABS unit or just the pump somewhere." Wheeler Dealers recently did a Corrado VR6 and had the ABS unit rebuilt and reconned by some place was only bout 125 quid or so, can't remember exactly, deffo under 200, awful lot cheaper than new if you could find one. Most 2nd hand going to be on last legs probs. They seemed pretty competent. Details were on the programme,just google it, think it's on Youtube of not got Tivo box or similar to search.

Hello, anyone tried this? Sounds logical. Mines got new clutch, slave and master and did bleed ok wi pressure bleeder but still have suspicion bit of air left in it, feels ok, but not perfect, everthings brand new should be perfect, this was listed for a VR6 Corrado : "I think the biggest reason it is so hard to bleed the clutch system is because the bleeder valve is lower than the incoming fluid line. Gravity bleeding will work to clear the clutch line of air, but there will be a bubble left in the slave cylinder. What I found that works is to simply unbolt the slave cylinder and hold it such in a way that the bleeder valve is at the highest point, relative to the incoming line. Holding it this way, the air bubble in the cylinder will naturally float up and out by gravity, e.g. the slave will fill up from the bottom and push the air out the top. Since gravity is doing all the work, this is a one man job. When the air bubbles stop, close the bleeder and attach the slave to the bell housing."

The whole design of the later 288, and 312 mm brakes (same calipers) are much better. Slider design miles better and pad contact area something like 70% more, so much more powerful. I had a new set of standard ones on my VR and still never felt right. There's always plenty available, loads of Audi/VW used, TT, mk3 VR6, lots of Skodas I think. Can get Pagid discs and pads from Europarts, MK3 Golf VR6 97, should fit. I got brand new set on Ebay. I'd scrap the old ones and do that, also check front wheel bearings, all front ball joints etc., and CV's, personally I'd renew the lot, if they weren't dodgy probs. are now if been vibrating that bad. Bet someone on here has the calipers you need. I've got some mint Audi ones which can be fitted with mods., had fitted to mine for a bit, but really needs someone with experience and tools, wouldn't recommend getting done at local garage.

Hello, just on offchance, but I've got mint grey leather interior in mine, minus front door cards which my bull terrier literally ate before got chance to put in, sometimes Golf people buy and only want seats, if door cards end up available give me a shout please

Europarts were selling ones for like 37 quid or something month or two ago, in a sale, was going there for something else. Seemed rude not to buy one at that price so did, thinking keep as spare, but put it on to test and it's been perfect for last couple of months. Kept pretty new Bosch, and a spare Bosch in garage though, as hard to believe it'll keep going for ever at that price.

Well, tackled the job on weekend, old pump was leaking but perfect, no wear, and top quality metal impeller type, slightly twisted seal was only issue,so to cut long story short, put new seal in, put back in, and took new airtex one back to Eurparts and got refund.

On closer inspection on the photo I think it is plastic blades, one ordered, but I'm minded to go with Swiftkids advice above, especially as it's got new/rebuilt engine (used old water pump,..... yeah I know, it looked perfect though). If does go shouldn't wreck the engine and lighter mass on pulley

Europarts do Circoli and a more expensive one Airtex, I havn't heard of either, I've done a click and collect on the Airtex purely on basis the more expensive one should be better, though that's not proof positive. There both metal impellers, take point on plastic one but havn't seen any plastic ones Europarts or on internet. Airtex OK? Havn't picked it up yet.

As stated really, plenty on internet all pretty cheap, always found Meyle's good and plenty of those. Eurocarparts have Circoli's which never heard of but in stock, any good or avoid? The local CTS can normally get Meyle's so long as order specific part, and allow at least a day to order (never get what's on shelf, standard stuff is crap but normally can get Meyle, TRW etc. if ask them) Thanks,

Hello, Took the carbon canister off month or so back, just no room for it with BDA intake system and never thought it did much use anyway. Sure I read somewhere that when done you should fit a resistor of a certain spec. to the plug that went to the valve that control's the canister input to throttle body, but can't now find. Car running fine, but was a bit rich at tickover on MOT yesterday but that is without a CAT and it still passed, though friendly MOT man a must there, and has EV6 injectors which probs run a bit rich on tickover, but the resistor thing worth a try I'd think? Seems fine when on move. Thanks,

215's would'nt fit on mine, there are larger rolling circumference and wouldn't clear the arches. Not even sure the amount of lowering would make any difference, they were rubbing the front of inner arch liners from memory, and the bottom of strut. The rears tend to rub on the front lower side of arch, not where you'd think at highest part of arch. My cars very stiff, and only that stops rears rubbing if had two fat boys in back with 205's.

Mines got those brakes on and got 17 inch Audi RS4's and clear fine, it's also lowered on Koni adjustables, I'd say at least 40mm, arches sit maybe half an inch above tyres. From memory the offset is ET32 7.5 all round. It's on 205 40 17's, Toyos which have rim protectors and are grippy as hell. I've got 8 RS4's altogether but sorry keeping all 8 in case bend one or more as getting very hard to get in 17's.

They'll be bang on for you, just remove the rear abs sensors as your not using anyway and no need to modify, it'll be obvious when you get them. You need longer bolts too, 15mm longer, but there standard m8's or m10's from memory you'll get anywhere BUT make sure at least rated to original spec. which is at least 8.8 from memory, I'd go 10.9 or higher myself. They came with bolts but they gave me wrong size. They go between the axle and the hub carrier so you'll retain your original hubs, wheel bolts, centres etc. and all will fit perfect and wheel bearings won't be stressed. You'll have to get spacers for front, but half job done. I'll send them off. Stiff KONI's handle really well but sounds like you wouldn't want to drive round Rome with them. That said they are adjustable so go from factory to Race I think, so could just adjust down until bearable but still stiff enough not to rub anywhere, or adjust up if expecting a couple of fat boys in the back. Would your average Italian Constable know what wheels a Corrado came with? I'd be tempted to argue the fact that that week in 1994 all white VR6's rolled out the factory with 17 inch RS4's on them. Worth a try?

Depends how stiff car is. Mines running 17 inch RS4's with 205 40's which would be bout same rolling circ. or maybe more, you could put pretty much any size spacers and it'd never touch arches. It's lowered too, arches sit bout half and inch above tyres. It's got new Koni adjustables adjusted most of way up. The front barely moves anyway, the back will rub not where'd you'd think at highest point but towards front and lower down, axle sort of arcs forward. I'd say if it's rubbing at all it's too soft, full stop, the back should be pretty stiff to avoid tramping in my book. What's roads like in Rome, suppose that's the question? P.S. I've GOT 15MM axle spacers for rear, rather than wheel spacers which are better than wheels spacers as no strain on bearings but harder to fit, for a 5 stud car. You'll have to adapt slightly if got ABS to clear sensors. Your welcome to them if you want? Just give me shout and remind me of your address, Cheers fairly

Cheers, they sound bang on. Yes put some pics up if no bother but I'm not too bothered what they look like so long as work fine, cars built for driving not showing. How much you want for them? Where are you? I'm in South Shields, Tyne and Wear.

The outer ones take the main wear, inners very little, I'm being picky, wear is very small but noticeable, car has had new everything basically, engine, box, clutch, wheel bearings, discs, calipers, springs, shocks etc. so seems mad not to change the last non-new part. It's got very stiff Koni's and Springs which may accentuate. The actual shafts look fine, lacking a bit paint in places, but it's the CV joint that wears. Put on on full lock and reverse and listen/feel for any wear.

New cv's on each end? I'd be interested, still tempted to stay with VW ones, I'd booked into garage to have inners fitted, though I'd be happy just changing whole shafts myself. I may well be overestimating work involved in fitting inner CV's, just had new front wheel bearings fitted and they had to use 23 tonnes of pressure in massive press, and heat to get old ones out, a new record that only lasted a month when an original Audi UR quattro beat it by a couple of tonnes, with what looked like original wheel bearings in it. High torque ones only for turbo cars and such. Mines got new engine and box in, slightly uprated, bout 220 bhp tops, mine will be fine with standard?

So a good and long lived shaft despite the lack of girth your saying, haha

I just searched VR6 driveshafts, there wasn't many, in fact might have just searched VR6 inner CV's, either will show them, it wasn't a "pair" deal, one was just under £30 other one £49.99.

Hello, My inner CV joints are a little worn. As everything else is brand new seems stupid not to change them. Can get Meyle inner CV joints, Meyle are normally very good, it's already had new outer CV's recently. On trawling Ebay there's a company called J and R offering whole drive shafts, both CV's, for 80 quid the pair. Say there forged steel and many testimonials from race car owners and other singing praises. Anybody heard of them, used them? Can they be any good at that price? 2 year warranty. Try them or just renew inners on current VW driveshafts?

I've got a new in the box Febi resistor that came with a new motor I bought, didn't fit my VR6 94, but my resistor was fine, in fact blower was OK too but so got a new resistor and working motor spare, maybe it's off a G60 or earlier VR6, do you know what part number should be, or got any pics?

Hello, Which steering rack does the Corrado VR6, 94, is it identical to the MK3 Golf VR6. Are all MK3's the same or does it have to be VR6 (same question for the power steering pump). Thanks,

If you let it coast down a long hill then when put foot down after descending you get a puff of grey/black smoke, think that's a pretty strong sign it's stem seals, but maybe bores also do that, someone on here will confirm. A leaky rocker cover gasket is pretty common and will drip oil down on to the plugs, but won't cause the downhill coast test, if your very lucky, cheap easy fix. The rubber on the gasket goes hard, starts leaking etc., but should have been replaced at the rebuild. All assuming decent parts and decent job done on the rebuild.