jekel

They probably stole that idea looking at one of my old Capri's I could probs sue. Tell ya what might make a diff. slightly off subject, prob. got a 3.0 bar fuel regulator in it, only the VR6's, turbo'd Audi 1.8's and few performance big engined Audi's use the 4.0 bar, sold a couple of 4.0 bars to Golf lads as had few spare, straight swap, and they were singing praises of improvement, prob. more of an improvement if got intake kit, decatted etc., which think they did, but they were well impressed.

When I think about it I'm not even sure I've had Bridgestones, I'm sure I had Continentals twice, I always confuse those two, so apologies I appear to be talking bollocks there, well bout Bridgestones at least, in fact think I'll try them next, they sound pretty good, lol

Sure I've got one for a 2.8i Capri in garage and think they might be the same. On a couple of 2.8i Colgones by way, hooked that up not just as a cold start valve but as a sort of 7th injector at full or nearly full throttle, worked a treat, not sure if possible on a Corrado, simple electrics on a Capri, and nicely placed to spray evenly across intake chamber, but maybe someone might, I've never looked at a 2.0 close up but suspect layout is similar.

Interesting looking junction, few too many miles from me, Redditch is it? Bought a Broadspeed Capri from Worcester few years back, nice part of country, and lovely car, I'd thought stayed in a hotel in Bromsgrove, but remember having night out in Worcester and strolling back to it and looking on map this doesn't sound feasible, maybe Bromsgrove was another one, did have loads of Capri's and all came from the south. That would have been a nice drive back in the Broadspeed had I not been following my wifes little Seat all the way. Camber makes a diff. when think bout it, was running bout 3.5 degrees on front at one point, handled like a go-kart, unbelievable turn in but eats the front tyres, more for tight sharp corners. Running bout 2 now from memory, might be 1.75 but a decent compromise, and tyres prob. last longer

Clearly your not trying hard enough, lol. It does have bigger uprated brakes, very stiff Koni's, uprated engine (though not massively not turbo'd or anything) and mine are 205/40/17's not 15's, don't know how much diff. all that makes, but coming in or out of Shields there's a dual carriageway with small roundabouts every few hundred yards which you can fly over at a 100 if you put your mind to it and it's quiet, and it's mainly that, you think of your 2 or 3 mile journey home, on a straightish road, and think of putting 15 high speed "racing chicanes" on it you fancy doing flat, do that on a regular basis and your tyres are'nt lasting too long. So for my 4000 I'm sure ya can double that or more in most cases. Rear one's last longer.

I feel well qualified to answer this as mine absolutely eats tyres on front, 4000 miles longest lasting so far, though there are a lot of c9orners round here and I do go round them with enthusiasm you might say, I've had Yoko's, Toyo's, Continentals, Pirelli's, Dunlop Sport Max, Falkens, Bridgeestones, and think I've forgot ohne, and that's in about 3 or 4 years. Yoko's are excellent and for money best option, do wear out quickly, Toyo's not far behind, very stiff, have 1 advantage in that got puncture once and it didn't even deform, like runflats, drove couple of miles home quite easily, wear out even quicker, Falkens are abysmal literally took them off and threw them away, Dunlop Sport Max. prob. best, shade the Yoko's just but fair bit more, last a little longer, Conti's, Bridgestones, bout same, good but not as good as Dunlop's, Pirelli's maybe a notch below them

The secret is heat the seal with a hairdryer before you put it in, applies anytime really but especially in winter, just feel differences in softness of rubber, put a Topran in before, just fitted a VW one on cold day and both push straight under hand pressure when warm, never hit them with a hammer or anything else, guarantee you'll wreck seal and it'll leak. If won't push in somethings wrong or rubbers too cold and not pliable. Little bit of WD40 does no harm, a little bit. Especially applies to the fuel pressure regulator thing, impossible in or out without heat. Hairdryer normally, warm don't toast it, hot air gun for hardened rubber suspension bushes if you use them.

They've deffo got a valve in block but I'm told also got one on in filter. Just had new engine put in and lad that helped me put it in, big name on here, showed me what said was valve in the Hengst filter that came off old engine, inside the paper element, see it from the hole in middle, forgot to check new one from Europarts (don't sell Hengst anymore, got the best one they do). As engine new I'll be changing oil again very shortly and be using a Hengst or VW I reckon. Can't totally confirm or deny the valve, maybe someone on here can say 100%.

Got the new engine and gearbox in and all's very well, running mint, only thing is running very cool. In this weather 70 degrees all day long, maybe 75 if driving "with enthusiasm" and 80 in bad traffic. At what point do "choke" mechs. switch off, what is optimum running temp.? It's got a VW (Mahler) thermostat. in came with engine, had new one to put in decent FEBI think it was but as VW one looked new, and tested and working fine, used that, don't think any are as good as VW ones. MPG's great once warm, miles better than old engine, but thirsty if check MAK computer thing in first few miles

I've got a decent oil cooler if you need one, thought mine was leaking got new one, but when got off was just pipe, old one's fine and in garage, mint inside, bit bruised and battereed looking from outside but probs all are due to where they sit,

Got a VW oil filter in it, or a good one, they should have a valve in them to stop oil draining right down from tappets, I'm told cheap ones don't, if good engine could cause the prob.

We've probably done this to death but the DfT docs. that bloke posted are very black and white in that VR6's of that era don't need a CAT merely need to pass the "CAT" emissions. When thinking bout it the only thing my car has on it that most prob. don't is : a) a oil catch can, the oil breather never gets near intake, it gets fresh air and fuel only, maybe that makes a diff. b) Broquet fuel catalyst in tank, I've used these on a host of old Fords mainly Capri's since unleaded petrol came out, ran one Capri on unleaded (non hardened leaded valve engine) for good 50 000 miles with no mods. without any issues. Though all my Capri's after that had rebuilt engines always seemed to run better and very clean with Broquet. My dad started using them on every car he had since he was in RAF (they were first used to enable Spitfires to run on the incredibly rough Russian petrol during the war) and all RAF and ex RAF tend to swear by them. He ran one on an Audi ur quattro new from factory for over 100 000 and I swear it ran sweeter the day he sold it than brand new. From memory my VR6 was less than 0.1% at every test till last when it scraped under at bout .27 or .28 think, but there was deffo. something slightly worn in head area then, I'll bet it'll be way under again with the new engine. Mines got aftermarket intake, and it's remapped now, but also passed easily on standard ECU. If you've got a VR6 in really top notch nick and it's not sailing below 0.3, maybe 1 or both of the above things makes a difference.

Just had quick look at that, my reading of that is between Aug. 92 and July 95, which will be most VR6's, if can find exact match on database do a CAT Test, that means it's got to get under 0.3%, not that it's got to have a CAT, nothing on their says car needs to have CAT fitted, if it can pass the CAT test which is only defined by % CO2, not any exhaust hardware, then you've passed, so my MOT place applying correctly, mines always got well under 0.3 without a CAT, even with a couple of worn valves (though otherwise engine was mint, MOT bloke thought I was mad for changing it. Interestingly butit says if can't find an exact match on database do the non CAT test, which is 3.5%, think I heard something about this along lines of if you insist it's tested as a Corrado VR6 2.9 there's no chance it'll still be on database if ever was, they might be testing as a Golf 2.8 or Passat or something but that ain't an exact match, so worthwhile bearing in mind for anyone who's got an old, or very worn VR6 who's looking for a pass. My point with the 60 000 miler though is it should fly through just like mine always did, without CAT, so even if you scrape a pass by putting CAT on your car still ain't running right, so diagnose and fix it properly now, if you can't get under 0.3 without a CAT keep looking until it's 100%

Depends on why they fell asleep, if he/she hadn't slept for a week and jumped in car, fair play, if it's a narcoleptic who decided or forgot to take meds, fair play, if it's a non-diagnosed narcoleptic who had no prior warnings "a reasonable man" could have recognised, their off Scot free, in hands of half decent handler. The fact you obviously caused the acc. ain't in itself enough to prove negligence. The classic one, and the most used case law is stung by a wasp, so next time you plough into the back of the Bugatti Veyron mate, "wasp flew in car window and stung me in head just before acc. officer", a "reasonable man" could not be expected to maintain control in those seconds following, ohh and get out and find a wasp quick, lol

None taken mate, there are fly by night insurers out there that'll try anything on, Lloyds syndicates mainly, not normally the Co-Op, and strange as it sounds that one's not as "out there" as it sounds, it's called "agony of the moment", and in certain circs. they'd have a winnable case. Fair point on the taxes but might not win the day at next audit, lol

Well having been a Claims Negotiator for 10 years I can definitely say that one's bollocks, I'm now a Senior Civil Servant and could send the first one off to the DfT for a definitive answer but something tells me that's not an efficient use of taxpayers resources

You need a friendlier MOT tester, mines a 94 on an L with CAT removed, (and sitting in garage but never needed it), before removed MOT place told me so long as passes emissions not bothered if has CAT on and that car will fly through it's mint. I'm pretty sure legally their right, some manufacturers started putting CAT's on before law changed, there's nothing to say cars got to be as factory prior to law change, think it was about 94,95,96 ish

I'd forget about the CAT mate, a half decent running VR6 should pass emmissions with no CAT on it. Mines sailed through every year miles under, this year it passed, admittedly just, with I'm sure 1 or 2 worn valves, it was starting to very slightly misfire when warm and couple of small puffs of smoke after coasting downhill, passed MOT then drove straight in to garage and fitted rebuilt engine in it. With 60 000 miles it should be sailing through, putting the CAT on is just masking any probs., a blocked breather valve can create havoc with emissions, easy check and fix, and check all other sensors etc. people's suggested. Those emissions are sky high, if you can't get it passing easily without a CAT you havn't fixed the prob. With 60 000 it should be nothing major or expensive, sensors, MAF, something blocked or choked etc.

I've got a blanking plug in garage can't remember why, any advantage in blanking it off, or just leave dead one in wired up

120 degrees! I would have pulled over and called Green Flag before that, lol. Don't think it's ever reached 100. Thought I'd never heard fan go full blast before, other than on manual switch got fitted. By way when fitted engine forgot the fan pulley belt, doh! Is it poss. to fit this with engine and radiator in situ, heard some say is with a bit of skill. It ran whole summer with no belt, had'nt realised had twisted and flew off and never overheated, really can't be arsed to take front end off again, it's just went back on.

I've got two sets of MK4 rear calipers if ya need them, both perfect, rebuilt, new internals, cylinders, seals and handbrake mechs. one with carriers one without, been meaning to stick on Ebay. Also got set of perfect front Audi calipers for 288 mm can fit Corrado with mods, i.e. ya'll need Golf 288 carriers and right pads. (One set red powder coated, not very well, reacted in places, one standard, have had all on my VR6 briefly worked perfect, now upgraded further)

The black sensor seems dead, no ohm reading, is all this does switch stage 3 of fan on? First 2 will still go on? Got manaul override switch anyway for fan full blast so be fine for few days till new one comes? Blue and yellow bang on, and have spares for these,can't find a black spare in garage,typical. Car never overheats or runs hot, well never did with old engine, new one only done 200 miles and temp. perfect so far.

Now sorted, running sweetly, thanks for all replies. Dodgy crank sensor to harness lead, now fixed (think probs. trapped it putting engine in, and crank sensor not seated fully/properly. When tried to move it was stalling, turns out the starter motor live feed was touching gear selctor when fully in reverse or first which I'm guessing explained the strange electrical thing, fuel pump priming when flashed main beam thing. Engine, clutch box now all as new, whoohoo!

Mines a 94, got engine fired and running perfect now, both ecu's 100 but both AG's I'm afraid and pretty sure that's no good for you, mines a 5 wire MAF. Good luck, probs a Golf one your bext bet, very few Corrado 4 wire MAF's around, maybe a Sharan or a Ford Galaxy would fit and probs be cheaper?

Chuggs I've just got the remapped ecu out the garage in prep for taking through to Chris's tomorrow and it's an AG not a CP, sorry said was just going by memory, quick look on here is saying is for coilpack but AG non immobilised, CP is, so not sure if any good for you. Pretty sure thhe standard one on car now is also an AG, matched them when got the remapped one. Looking at this post also a difference on coilpack wires if this blokes got it right : Found this on another forum For UK mk3 golfs and corrado's: OBD1: 021 906 258 A, B and C is vr6 distributor 021 906 258 AF is 5 wire maf coil pack 021 906 258 AG is 2.9 5 wire coil pack 021 906 258 CP is 2.9 4 wire coil pack 021 906 258 CH is 2.8 4 wire coil pack 021 906 258 BK is also 4 wire coil pack