jekel

Plot thickens, having had proper look at master cylinder mine looks like has 3 pipe outlets from resevoir, one to clutch 2 to ABS and only 1 brake pipe from master, and 1 bleed nipple at front/back depending which way you look at it. This is nothing like all the masters everyone lists for VR6 which all have 4 outlets from master. Having quick look on here apparently these are now obsolete, but think the most common type on VR6's. Some Audi A4 ones can be fitted they reckon. Could you just fit the 4 outlet one and use 1 for pipe, 1 for bleed and blank other 2, and fit the original resevoir, assuming same size? I'd be happy to delete the whole ABS system, never liked ABS, and I'm sure like one bloke added it would work much better without, but probs too much hassle and might have probs with MOT, plus all ABS stuff works fine, unlike most. On bright side loads of people on here having major trouble getting a clutch master cylinder for VR6, the one with clip fitting for pedal, everyone lists wrong one. Rang CTS, as one 5 minutes from me, described the right one and he had it for me the next day, TRW one 105 quid, he also had an LPR one for 56, he reckoned was good, but always found TRW stuff to be top quality. Fitted perfect. Give them a try anyone that's needing clutch, always check the parts make with them first but, they do some good quality stuff, but never just go for cheapest with them, they do some total tat too.

Have just done a quick google it's saying 22.2 mm standard, and a companys selling new Meyle ones for 30 quid which sounds remarkably cheap, always found Meyle products to be good. Not sure how 23mm is an upgrade, bet that's 22.2 rounded up. Apparently a T5 Transporter one is 25.5mm which fits, but few saying bigger isn't always better. Don't take any of this as gospel, 5 minute google special.

Could do with new clutch master, having renewed slave, and clutch seems past it's best. Might as well put new brake master on at same time I'm thinking. Some are selling 23mm ATE upgrades, worthwhile? Is standard 21mm? Any other suggested upgrades? Or go standard? It's got the later Golf/Audi TT , calipers on front and bigger discs, and mk4 Golf calipers discs on back, all brand new, but think piston size is the same?

Topran's dodgy but Meyle normally ok, I had a VW set lying around and was fine. I could'nt find the rubber seal for housing to block and lucky enough had a brake piston seal (from front from memory but also had ones for back so could have been back) and fitted perfect and gave much better seal, always thought the seal they give you there is too thin, if ya've got a brake piston seal lying around use it instead much better seal to block

Thought I had the only white one in Tyne and Wear, Damn!

£108 from memory. MPG settled down to bout 28 now but I'm happy with that, Ive got a heavy right foot and it was doing 19 before and that's on a new engine, so it'll pay for itself pretty quick. This might be of interest I had a new FPR from a 1.8 turbo had lying around, 4 bar, exactly same from outside and same fit as the one that came on car, 4 bar Bosch both of them, but the hole in middle much smaller on the turbo one, i put it in couple of weeks ago, just checking was'nt an fpr problem, car ran ok, but when put new lambda in and engine back to 100% definitely felt like not opening up fully, put Corrado fpr back in and perfect loads more power when opened up. Mention this as on ebay etc. they list same fpr for 1.8 turbo, VR6 and basically anything that uses 4 bar, but looks like another one of those parts that should be VR6 or Corrado VR6 specific.

Lost track a bit now of who's got what problem but my new VW lambda arrived now fitted and everything 100%, mpg also jumped from 19 to 30, don't think prob the same, but was dying at idle and generally not running 100%, old (only 2 years old at most) one was reading dead when got out. It was a Bosch one when looked, was from Europarts listed for VR6 Corrado 94, but totally different to one from VW, part numbers and the shape/design of exhaust end bit.

Just fit a decat pipe, I've had one on for 3 years and it's sailed through emissions test on MOT first 2 years well under, and squeezed through last year but that was on old engine with a couple of worn valves, now got new engine in it. If engine's in good condition should pass no problem. Was bit of debate about this while back, someone posted up MOT regs. and my reading is all Corrado's (given age) only need to pass the emissions, the test is labelled CAT Emissions, but whether got CAT on or not is immaterial, and good nick engine should sail through. That's how my MOT place reads it anyway, if yours does'nt find a friendlier MOT place. Just taking CAT off in itself might not be improvement but with CAT removed get it remapped, and ideally a decent induction kit, and is noticeable improvement.

Was the lambda sensor by way, new VW one on way

Not sure where this is at now but if anyone needs a good Bosch ISV I've got 3 all bang on, look like new inside, had all 3 on car in last few months. Keeping one for spare, sticking the 3rd on Ebay, message me if anyone needs it.

Yes, wish I'd never changed mine, renewed everything bout year ago, sure old Lambda was fine, and didn't look that old, and proper VW/Bosch one, but there normally seized in, got to take the cat (or in my case now decat) pipe off and heat up to get out, I cut the wires to get a socket on as had new one, and threw it, otherwise I'd just put old original one back on. I'm dubious of these Bosch one's on Ebay as they seem to fit just bout every car out there if you believe them but the correct Bosch one fits VR6 and very few others I think, hence VW. I doubt it's your Lambda from symptons, not same symptons as mine, it does'nt kick in at all for first 15 secs I think so wouldn't make sense. Easily checked, disconnect it, if it runs same or worse disconnected it's not working right. The car should run fine without it, it like fine tunes the mix etc. I think, but it will default without it and run OK but not perfect, should'nt be any stalling. bad idle or anything major without. What's the MPG on the dash computer, good, bad, changed recently?

New temp sensor much improved mine, but yesterday still died couple of times after been stuck in traffic for while then running fairly constantly for a mile then stop again, just that initial lift off, plus mpg improved but not to where it was. So last night disconnected lambda and today perfect on same journey, no revs dying any circs. It'll go better again with new Lambda but they will run without any obvious faults without lambda if everything else ok. Lambda was only a year old but wasn't VW/Bosch (ordered a Bosch one but got palmed off with a FAE or something when turned up to collect from Europarts. Ordered an original VW (Bosch) one now from VW, . So: a) though most common not always the ISV b) could be combination of things c) careful where you buy Lambda's from, probs. one of those bite the bullet and go to VW ones My idle was only ever that initial dying after revs. if jumping all over place, or stalling constantly ISV probs still fave.

Yep exactly that, you can test the ohms with a multi meter, will change for diff. temps. but unless you've got an accurate thermometer too not a definite science and small diff. can make big diff. to car, so far price they are, and for dif they make I'd just get new one. Most places will stock fairly common across VW range

Deffo change the blue temp sensor if not alread done, there like a tenner and take seconds to change (you'll lose a bit of coolant but like cupful if quick). I had 2 both reading bout the same but turned out both were equally wrong, new one sorted (don't assume because have 2 and same there ok the lesson there). As a result however I have 3 perfect Bosch ISV's, I'm keeping one as a spare and was gonna ebay one, so if anybody needs message me. One's Corrado VR6 one's off a Lotus Carlton (identical bar inlet and outlet's are same size on that and as result gives stronger tickover I'd say, especially on uprated engine it was also brand new few months ago so I'll be keeping that one I think). If it's just occasionally dying at initial tickover, after had foot down, could well be temp. sensor, that's what mine waa doing, blokes who was jumping all over place, up to 1500 sounds like could well be ISV.

Eurocarparts had a cracking deal on Bosch's just before Xmas, got an S4 for bout 55 quid from memory, tey had cheaper Bosch's but got the biggest one for car (think it was S4), they also did Duracells and most others, check them out. Google Europarts offer code and there's some site that always has latest offers and code, and do the clikc and collect as it's cheaper, I got a discount on a discount, effectively.

As title really, fitted new engine so think can rule that out, and it's perfect at full throttle, but mpg dropped to like hihg teens (was 28) and wants to die when warm and pull up at junction or something, just that initial idle, after that it's fine. All sensors and basically everything else new in past year but did give it a pretty healthy short when first wired after engine so could have damaged a sensor. Not bad enough to be crank etc., have 2 MAF's, ISV's, Coilpacks all of that seems fine, 2 ECU's one remapped, was fine with standard one, ran bout 200 miles after new engine, fine with remapped one for bout 500 after that, then mpg jumped up. Don't have VAGCOM at mo. Sound like Lambda, only sensor chnaged that wasn't original VW or Bosch, and fine at full throttle?

Lilfuzzers who's on here's got my old engine in his garage, changed coz got cracking deal on a full reconned one, couple of valve guides away, but otherwise seemed perfect, even got new timing chains, and passed mot emissions with no CAT day before removed, as your geting new head might be worthwhile contacting him, sure he sell it, and better than an unknown VR6 that's sat for years, only removed couple of months back

I'll maybe buy one then and give it a go, or pop it down my mates who i'm sure's got one. Why did VW fit the large spline adapter in first place anyone know?

Hello, just got a new Mountney boss which has 74 and 70 pcd fitment so can fit a new NARDI wheel I've got (74) or revert back to the MOMO currently got, if fancy it. As soon as took out box though that looks too small and it says @remove factory splined ring@, which presumably is the big spline adapter. It's meant to be for a Corrado VR6 94, and suppose will fit if remove but 1.) heard removing this ain't no picnic, their pressed on at factory i heard and 2.) isn't there a risk of damaging the column (which is pretty new) if forcing it off and 3.) presumably VW had a reason for fitting the big spline adapter in the first place The MOMO wheel has a MOMO boss which fits on to the big VW spline. TThe NARDI is beautifully made but not sure don't prefer feel of MOMO anyway, their both 320mm's, MOMO is perfect nick anyway maybe I should just cut losses and stick with it? Anyone want to buy a NARDI, lol

Look on the thread at the start of this section, the permanent thread bit, I've just posted a bit of an add to it but the idea and thread is somebody elses. My adjustable steering column was brand new when got car and still didn't like feel, probs. only moved a mm or so but still annoying, the bolt @fix@ is much better than getting a fixed steering column as it's still adjustable, albeit that adjustment is gonna require ya getting ya spanners out, but how often ya gonna be moving it anyway? There's pics. on the thread should be obvious when view and easy job and fix. Like I say mine was new but don't see why should'nt fix ya problem totally if just the adjuster that's given trouble.(I'd use a threaded bolt all the way and 3 sets of nuts and washers like I just posted).

This is great idea, I did it quite a while back and been bang on. Only difference I did was using bolt threaded all the way and 3 sets of nuts and washers, so your clamping it both ways if ya know what I mean, that way it's more solid again, and infinitely adjustable, that adjustment does require removing cowling nd getting ya spanners out, but how many people drive your Corrado anyway, would'nt let my wife near mine, we've got another 2 cars she's welcome to use. You can adjust it on the notches and clamp it down, or adjust between the notches and clamp it.

Never tried Nology but don't use Bosch, don't suit VR6's, there's a reason a German company used foreign plugs, use the original equipment NGK's. The platinum plugs and presume silver ones or just for longer service intervals no other advantagee and your a better with standard and change at regular imtervals, your not not going to not service your VR6 for 30 000 miles I'm sure. Some people actually prefer the single electrode NGK's which can buy for nothing as you can gap them, the twins are factory set.

P.S. Meant something easily fixed not spotted, like my loose Crank Sensor as engine sounds bang on, with rebuild

Don't force or pull it at all! There's a locking sort of leaver right at the front, it's not obvious looking at it especially if yours is covered in dust dirt etc., it might be stiff if not been off for some time but until it's pulled out fully the connector ain't moving. When it's pulled out the connector releases itself, sort of L shaped, slides bout an inch or so towards front of car. Hard to describe, google or youtube it and a pic or video paints a thousand words. Probs loads of VW's and others got same plug. Post up when ya've found what problem was by way which sure you will, bet something simple.

If anyone needs a new engine I can recommend my oold one which is now in the possession of Lilfuzzer on this site. Had a couple of worn valve guides I think, had mate who had a totally reconned/rebuilt VR6 got good deal, and easier to change whole engine, but bar valves was perfect, just had MOT'd before changed, passed emissions with no CAT, MOT man thought I was mad for changing it, even said quietest nicest sounding VR6 he'd heard. I borrowed a mates VR6 with nearly 200K on it whilst changing and mine felt like a Formula 1 in comparison. Contact Lilfuzzer if interested but do allow for head/valve work (probs. just 2 guides but be stupid not to do whole head) it was mild, occasional puff of smoke after coasting down long hill. I think it was rebuilt just before I bought car bout 3 years ago, oil looked same coming out as went in at change, could see chains new, and had sump off once and like mirrors inside. He also has gearbox which is perfect, I put new rebuilt one in when changed engine and you'd be hard pushed to notice any diff between the two running. Contact Lilfuzzer and say your after Paul's VR6 from the white Corrado, as he has a few VR6's. He's from Co. Durham, down road from me