-
Content Count
26,797 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Posts posted by Kevin Bacon
-
-
Corrado TDI?The conversion for tight people :D
It's amusing and different for a day, but that chuntering tractor noise and narrow power band would drive me nuts very quickly.
To those not in the know might say: "Oh look, nice Corrado, shame it sounds broken and smells like a bus" :)
Dude you serious? if that's the case something must me set up wrong!It would you know. Corrados really aren't all that in the handling stakes, especially not against modern machinery with 200% stiffer body shells! The Corrado has easily found limits, but it does handle far better than it's Golf brother, that's for sure!
-
OEM ones if you can afford them. There is no better.
-
It's worth throwing flow rate and oil pressure into the mix as well.
Oil pressure is another misunderstood aspect of the engine's lubrication system. Oil pumps do not create pressure (neither do fuel or water pumps for that matter). They create flow rate. Oil pressure comes from the resistance to flow seen at the pump's outlet (like sticking your thumb on the end of garden hose). It's clearances between the metal parts and tiny oil galleries in an engine that create oil pressure.
It's precisely because of these tiny oil galleries in VVT units and other fine oil control systems in modern engines that OEMs specify a specific oil.
If an ageing engine suffers from low oil pressure, you can throw as many new pumps at it as you like, but the fact is it's worn out and needs rebuilding / replacing.
When an engine is new, sticking to the recommended oil is a good idea. But when it gets old and the clearances get bigger, stepping up from a 40 to a 50 can help restore some lost pressure and reduce oil consumption.
Flow rate can be an issue on old engines that have been run on mineral oil all their lives. The seals can harden due to the blow by acidity and if you stick a nice thin, fully synthetic in it with a different flow rate, it can weep past the seals.
-
My ex had a nice faded green one and I attempted to adjust the tappets, which was completely futile! Then I learned the valvetrain just wears out on them and it's impossible to get them quiet again.
Didn't pull badly for a 1300 though I must admit!
-
Apology accepted :D Not that you had anything to apologise for imo! Forums are full of opinionated people and occasionally our opinions differ, but it's nothing to take personally, or try not to at least!
I wouldn't pay someone 50 quid to rub my car with a rotating piece of foam with some stuff on it, let alone £200+ :lol:
-
Half a litre per 4000 is fantastic for a VR6!
10W/50 is far from too thick and it's by far the best oil I ever put into my 12V engines.
-
Would have been worse if he said I'd got my inspiration from an Allegro :lol:
Talbot Horizon....mmmmmm. The tappiest engine known to man. You boys with 'tappey' VR6s haven't heard anything yet!
-
That's how you have to look at it. You could import a set yourself for around the same 1 - 10 price, but you'll be paying full price on the fitting and mapping.
Schimmel said the GB we did 5 odd years ago would be his last, and since then America have seen huge rises in raw steel prices (partly because of the Bejing Olympics using it all!), so they can't discount cams and things as much as they used to, or would like to.
It's austere times people. A lack of financial trust extends way beyond mortgage lenders and first time buyers. It's everywhere!
£175 saving on the the fitting and mapping is fantastic and everyone who's had it done can testify to Vince's excellent mapping skills :)
-
It's another 20 years before I get my bus pass :D
Sorry to be snobby about this, but I had the MK3 Allegro, lol -
-
lmao!Everyone has to cut their teeth on a schitt car. Young'uns these days don't know how good they've got it!
Time to change the over-used "You're not a petrol head until you've owned X, Y or Z" phrase.
It now reads: "You're not a petrol head until you've owned an Allegro or a car just as bad, if that's even possible."
-
so you got your taste for car modifying from the austin allegro! :) you don't hear that often!It's a right of passage though I reckon, messing with your first cars, I've lost wheel bolts from leaving them loose, bent valves from messing with cam belts, electrocuted myself with the HT circuit and nearly passed out from syphoning petrol (from my own car BTW!) I've not set fire to anything though...yet.
Yep, my first car :D It was Mum's and she bought a MK2 Golf CL (how I grew to love VWs) at the time of me passing my test, so rather than selling / scrapping the All Aggro, they let me have it. What a mistake that was. I don't think Mum's ever forgiven me for the puddle of oil on the block paving :lol:
Same experiences with HT shocks, swallowing petrol, getting petrol in my eye, lapping in valves so much the seats were completely ground away (PMSL!!), fitting springs and shocks incorrectly, and yep messing up cam timing, the lot!!
I'll have to try and find a picture of it with it's graduated stripes I sprayed onto it on a cold, damp winters day :lol:
It was also the car for learning about crashing into things and putting it into ditches :D
-
Hey bobby, live and learn I guess. At least you and the car are fine, like someone said previously it's only a tyre and maybe time for some different rims.... Shame though as those corvette? rims are sweet!I used to do some crazy things to my cars in my yooooof. Including a clip on Ansa tailpipe on my Allegro that fell off on the motorway and smashed through the car behind's grille and radiator, attempting to rebuild the engine myself which resulted in blue smoke so bad, it was like fog, fitting Princess wheels, fitting MG Metro hydragas units, etc etc
The car was a death trap. Guys like me are the reason why VOSA / MOT / DVLA keep trying to ban car modifying :D
-
Tasty updates!
Yeah those oil less turbos aren't cheap are they! Reading between the lines, their ceramic bearing system can be put into any turbo but the only thing that put me off was you have to periodically regrease the bearings. I'm a fit and forget man and not sure if I could be bothered with the faff!
Yeah you can get at the lower left intake bolt with a long ball ender mate.
It's coming along nicely mate!
-
I wasn't devaluing anyones craft, just expressing my amazement at there's a pot of wax for £200 !Pah, I laugh in the face of £200 waxes. I wouldn't even buff my lawn mower blades with that cheap shyte. This season, I am mostly using this - http://swns.com/news/british-businessman-launches-worlds-expensive-car-wax-costing-65000-38132/
-
Landsail, yum yum :)
Bloody cheap for a pair of 18s though!!
-
Most tyres aren't that bad but when they're asked to perform above and beyond, NangChukkas clearly aren't up to it. Bridgestone for example have MUCH stronger sidewalls and could have withstood that for a lot longer ;)
-
Not a chance in hell. They will throw the book at you.
-
I don't like yellow cars but the road would be a brighter place if people were brave enough to go for bright colours instead of recession grey and silver.
-
In my experience it works better on cars that maybe don't get looked after quite as well as maybe ours do, or those that get run on crap fuel.I don't use it all the time, just as part of my usual service routine as an extra clean. Using this deal it'll cost me an extra £1 each time for the next 6 services..... which I can just about cope with.
Edit - Dave, it's basically pure Naptha which I think someone told me is kind of like Kerosine. I used to use it by spraying it straight into air-cooled carbs and it'll clean those in a few seconds.
Naptha is also known as "brake and clutch cleaner", which I wouldn't have thought would shift anything in the tiny concentrations involved here? Soaking the injectors in it overnight with an ultrasonic bath, maybe, but 5 / 95% dilution in petrol, hmmm... I'm not convinced. As I say, imo, the red dye in Redex is oil basically and that is making the upper bores a bit more slippery.
It's another one of those "Through continued use......" cash cowing schemes.
The reason I am skeptical is because modern injected cars have very effective fuel filtration to prevent spray pattern deterioration, which causes poor metering and therefore poor emissions. A big no no since OBD1. The only thing to actually remove is maybe gums and varnishes that build up on the pintles over time, but Redex certainly wouldn't shift that.
For that you need an intensive cleaner where you disconnect the fuel pump and run a canister of cleaner directly through the fuel rail via compressed air.
-
Redex has never done anything in my experience.
I suspect the extra power came from it's upper cylinder lubrication properties. It's just like adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel, but at a much smaller concentration.
It's why cars in the 80s felt less responsive after they pulled leaded petrol. Lead was a good upper cylinder lubricant.
Shove it in by all means (especially if it's cheap) but don't expect a refreshed engine from it :D
-
Check the lobes of the 263 cams when you're there as I've seen a few sets develop pits. Poor case hardening.
-
VR6 alternator isn't quite as easy, but yes, that is what the issue is.
If you put a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running, you'll see the voltage pulse up and down slightly at the same rhythm as the light flickering. The regulator is dying and allowing AC voltage through, which DC electronics aren't especially fond of.
-
Vince told me 10 years ago that VR6s are never quiet when I took mine in for the same complaint. After 4 hours labour / parts wasted trying to quieten it, he was right.
Over the years I've had a succession of different cams, new tappets, springs etc and sometimes it's been quiet, sometimes it hasn't.
Besides which, you can't diagnose noises on a forum. Jim could be a describing a completely different noise for all we know but this is a FACT: You will never get a 12V VR6 totally quiet, so get the idea of a permanent fix out of your mind and move on :)
-
For the condenser, I used a left hand drive OEM one from the dealer, which was only about £150 when I got it. I didn't use it for A/C but it fitted the car perfectly.
Since this isn't exactly a standard Corrado system either, maybe it will work for the Climatronic retrofit. Eurocarparts sell it as well if VW don't list it anymore - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Corrado_2.9_1995/p/car-parts/car-cooling-parts-and-car-heating/air-conditioning1/air-conditioning-condenser/?222440750&1&03035ce0e0d635c412a21beaf76ebe359d4f5855&000382
Personally I think you're brave and mad! The HVAC system causes plenty of issues in MK4s, let alone conversions, especially the main flap positioning motor.
Heyday of the Corrado
in General Car Chat
Posted
Shoulds, ifs, buts, maybes.
Come back when you've got more experience and can put across a more balanced argument.