Kevin Bacon

No worries.

FWIW, I got my gearbox rebuilt by Stealth at the same time as adding the 3.68 and Quaife, which saved loads on repeat labour. I got the syncros replaced and the bearings etc and it felt amazing afterwards. It's not cheap obviously if you include the fitting etc, but something to consider. Or get a used VR6 box and send that up to Vince or Hotgolf for a rebuild and fit it yourself.

You can do it DIY though.

You need the crown wheel from a Corrado G60 gearbox. Vince at Stealth or HotGolf on the ClubGTI forum are your most likely sources, failing that, an entire G60 gearbox.

You will also need an ARP diff bolt kit. Or buy a Peloquins diff and it comes with the bolts ;)

Then it's a case of stripping the box down and fitting it. You do need a sturdy pillar drill for drilling out the original crown wheel rivets though and you may also need a dial gauge for setting the diff end float as well, but it's all been covered in assorted threads before, but good luck with the search as it's pants!

What size turbo and what boost pressure? I know of someone else who stripped 5th using a GT30R running around 18psi.

I used a GT35R for 60K miles and never had any issues with the standard 02A + 3.68 final and quaife.

5th is the smallest gear and at the end of the shaft, so the teeth can be chewed off it easily if the torque comes in too aggressively.

I wouldn't pay £700 for a 13" mac, let alone the £1000 rrp!

Equally well said....

That´s no excuse. When I did my motorway driving training as part of my German license, I also lived about 1 hour or so away from the nearest motorway

I also live in East Anglia but lane discipline is lane discipline. The amount of lanes is irrelevant. There are plenty of Dual Carriageways to learn on in East Anglia, including 3 lane ones.

Take the plywood back out of a bookcase and you can destroy it with little effort by pushing on one of the top corners towards its diagonally opposite lower corner

Exactly this /\.

So analysing / theorising a bit more, a straight bar spanning the struts still gives you just a virtual box with no support. If one wheel hits a bump and tries to bend the floor (as David's diagram so neatly demonstrates!), a plain bar will just move up on that side instead of spreading the force over a larger area, like a steel sheet or X brace would.

The only advantage of a plain bar is when a giant pair of hands tries to pull the struts apart laterally. How many driving scenarios can you think of where that would happen? :D

It's probably why VW Motorsport used the Vento as for it's Cup Challenge car instead of the Golf, because it has the nice sheet of steel spanning the struts :)

I have a B12 pro kit done less than 5k of you're interested Jim?

What did you think of it?

I find those Bilstein monotubes to be slightly aggressive but the pay off is very consisent damping.

Yeah Corrado shells are soggy. You can hear the door frames moving when you drive slowly over adverse cambers, reverse down drop kerbs at an angle etc. MK4s were a huge leap forward but VW reckon the MK5 is 120% stiffer than the MK4! Just a shame it rusts :D

Probably why the MK5 handles so well. The shell is super rigid so that the springs and dampers can actually do their job. Driving into a pot hole with a MK5 doesn't feel / sound like the whole car is about to collapse like it does in the Corrado, lol!

I think an X brace is best on the Corrado. Neuspeed used to do a really good rear brace for the Corrado but it's sadly no longer made. It was almost like a rear cage!

Surely it depends what you're bracing? If you're bolting onto the towers then you'd need quite a lot of metal to brace it, but if you have one of the ones that fits over the top of the struts (held down by the same nut that holds the strut into the spring plate and top mount) then it'd be taking some of the radial load out of the top mount bearing by preventing the strut from tilting inward.

 

When I was at the garage the other day I got handed a nice steel OMP one out of the bits box that looks like it'll fit nicely so I'll have to give it a go when the weather holds off for a bit :)

 

Stone

Eh? Bearing? Tilting inwards? Are we still talking about the rear turrets?! :)

What a rear brace should to is reduce lateral body twist. Because hatchbacks have no metal behind the seats, they're like a big cardboard box that flexes easily. A bar that simply goes across the two towers doesn't do anything. Ideally you want a triangulated one that bolts to the floor as well, or just a great big steel sheet to fill the gap, but that's impractical.

Or a roll cage, the ultimate chassis strengthener!

Is the thinner of them two ally or stainless , iv been thinking of making one up, iv got a tig welder bud not sure if ally is strong enough , and iv got a normal welder for mild steel but im sure it would weigh a ton out if mild

You're not talking enough weight to affect the car's performance :D

If you can weld, do it! Make a triangulated one. The single bars that span the two turrets do virtually nothing. The objective is to replicate the front bulkhead, which is what saloon cars have and a triangulated bar is the closest thing to that.

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They tried metric tyres and it failed miserably!

Yeah that's very reasonable. Corrados always feel amazing after a chassis overhaul and a Vince alignment. He uses slightly less camber (-0.8 instead of -1.2 IIRC) which makes the tyres last longer and gives it a really solid feel on the road.

I was hoping you'd try the Bilstein B12 kit!

I found 17s worked on my Corrado, providing the wheels were light and ContiSport tyres were used, otherwise yeah, crashy and shyte.

18s need elastic bands to get the rolling circumference right, so the ride quality is horrendous. Cars made to take 18s from the get go (such as R32s) get away with it and use 225/40s, so there's a decent amount of rubber around the rim, said the actress to the bishop.

I'm not a fan of overly lowered cars either to be fair, when I bought mine it was "dick head" low....never really understood that scene. Unfortunately KW1s are what I have. Although I've raised them from what it was.

Me neither. I don't think it even looks good, let alone anything else! A nice uniform gap around the arch is spot on, which the Koni/H&R combo gives you. A slammed car just looks unappealing to drive because it has zero travel and will make a right meal of tiny bumps 'normal' cars wouldn't even notice.

I went out in a VR6 with V1s set to the usual 2-3 finger gap and I was really suprised how it felt too stiffly sprung and under damped at the same time. The V3s are a world apart from that, but they're a heck of a lot more money unfortunately.

Just got a price from Vince, stupidly i sold all the spring plates, bump stops and associated bits with my last suspension, thinking i wouldn't need it again. I had bought all those bits new from VW, so need to buy them again to fit springs and shocks.

 

I am pretty certain i am going to go ahead with it.

I did the same mate. I priced it all up and it was around £600 for the konis and springs, but all the front and rear fittings I'd binned pushed it to over a grand when bought new from VW.

I assume it's a press fit and shouldn't detach itself at 7000rpm!

But the Koni/HR combo handles better because they're not low. You can't have it both ways :D

I never rated the V1s. I was surprised they were made by the same company as my V3s they were so bad.

Yeah I can't see it causing any harm mate as the input shaft doesn't extend much past the clutch friction disc, if at all. I guess the DSG boxes use the crank for lateral support.

I think there's a pic of the floor mounted pedal in my build thread too.

It is indeed :D

Ask him if the DTA S80 ECU is included in the sale, lol!

It wasn't there on my BDB engine and wasn't there on my MK4 when we did the chains either. Weird! Is your engine from a DSG car?

The clutch turns the input shaft so it doesn't technically need to go inside the crank, but it might run freely inside it when the pedal is pressed for some lateral support or something, not sure!

See this is what I mean. There's no such thing as a bolt in R32 conversion. They ALL throw up some kind of little issue that hasn't yet been documented :D

Looks like someone has used the end of a Tin can, formed it into shape and then stuck it in the hole with filler and painted over it up to the sill line with a rattle can.

 

If the previous owner who did this is on here (most of its owners were club members)

 

.......Thanks for that!

 

Jesus! Bodgery taken to a whole new level!

Tsk, that bloody purple Corrado gets everywhere on the web :D

Now if only everybody stood up for themselves like that, insurance companies wouldn't get away with shyte service.

Were there are any height adjustments on the rear dampers? Rear Koni yellow dampers have adjustable spring bases to help solve this issue. If not, that looks bloody awful for such a big name kit! Probably worth going back to the supplier to double check you got the right kit etc.

Ah yes, that's it. There's a large coated steel plate that covers all the gaps. Didn't use it on my conversion though.

Moral of the story: Don't be fooled by the low prices- it's simply not worth the hassle. Stay away from Admiral!

"You get what you pay for" has never been truer these days but sadly, premium cost is by no means a reflection on the service you'll get. Even the big players can royally f'ck people over and will always do so if they can get away with it legally. Banks and Insurance companies are morally repulsive.