buttles

Sadly failed dismally!! Not got a 2x2 connector.

As do you!!

Or for the cost of petrol drive over to Redhill and I'll do it for free

There was a recall for the fan assy. Maybe worth checking it was done. Details on here in the wiki somewhere

Just make sure if it has broken off proud you put the disk on with the hole over the stub. Or it wont sit flat on the hub. Obvious really but a tyre centre fitter wont bother to check. Been there, done that!!

I usually just use a large flat blade screwdriver and sort of Lathe the rust off by spinning the disc with the screwdriver held against the carrier. Also no need to take anything apart. Mind you dont pinch your hand in something. Hurts and easily done!!

Have you checked the play in the bearings? If it's more noticeable under load then it might be a pad rubbing on the disc as the hub 'flexes'

Ahhh...... Caliper envy. Yup, late VR ABS ECUs should be the same

Hi Nick, if you want to come round again we can try my ABS ECU. Your relay holders looked pretty manky. Did you give them a good clean when you replaced the relay? A new scan with good relays might show the B+ code has gone and the fault has come back as the valve as we discussed. We can also check the wireing from the relay to ecu plug. Neil

I had similar when my top mount bearings wore out. Whole strut rocked laterally. Try lifting car up with hands under wheel arches.

Yup, in Merstham. OBD2 only but if it's for the Storm you will be ok! Any good then PM me..

I really am trying to help, honest. Type 'For those with hot start problems - lil update' into the search box at the top of the page and see what you get. The input into the Solenoid on the starter motor comes through the Ignition switch. If there is any dodgy/old/ knackered wireing then there is sometimes not enough juice to fully throw the solenoid (especially when hot) and get a start. The Relay mod puts new wireing in to get full 12v to the Solenoid. Print off the picture and show it to your Mechanic.

'For those with hot start problems - lil update' Relay Mod if new ignition switch fails to cure it. If you are getting a click at the starter motor then the ignition switch is doing something. And the fact that it's Ok when cold points to the Starter motor as well.

May a nudge in the Search direction be prompted!! There is quite a bit on this issue. If it does it with a brand new starter, not recon then it would point to the wireing in the car. It is usually a combination of just old age. I had it and putting a relay in the starter circuit has cured it totally as there is full battery whack to the solenoid. When was the ignition switch last changed as the switch carries the energiser load to the solenoid (not cranking load!!) There is a diagram of the relay mod on here somewhere. Never had to worry about being stuck again since. Neil

You can also tweak the Gauge to read the same as the ECU (Blue) when up to temp. Bit of a fiddle but at least they read the same when at normal temp. Small adjuster in back of unit

Cam sensor will give a power loss. I had one go slowly before it finally put it's hand up and showed failed. Crank sensor usually it won't run. If a knock sensor is giving a duff input to ECU that will also retard ignition. Also it has already thrown a code to VCDS. Hope no Eggs being sucked there!!

If it's the bracket to head you are asking about I used a plain washer under each of the three bolts. Sat true and was never an issue.

The contact ring on the steering wheel boss was dirty on mine. A clean and electro lube later and all fine. Wouldn't account for the fuse gone though.

Hmmm......just turned car off and removed keys with Headlights still on (by mistake) and heater fan still ran. Tried the same later and after a couple of seconds fan stopped. Blocks, not another ignition switch gone, or possibly load reduction relay!! I swear my car is reading this topic

Been running the Stage 1 since July as a daily and had absolutly no issues at all. Not stalled once as well so that's a bonus. Have to fight the G/F for the drive when we go out! Enjoy

They self centre to a point but I have had a variety of results! Not had an Irish Guinness for a while so not too bad and weather is ok

I've found you need to be quite careful when joining them that the flanges are mated up properly. The clamp doesn't centre the join very well and will tighten wherever you have the flanges. This can lead to reduced seal area. The mating faces in aircraft a/c pipes have a conical seal which engage in cut rings. I'll stop now as I'm boring myself. (Stuck in Shannon as not able to get into Heathrow yesterday)

Though I suspect they won't thank you when the Insurance Vultures cotton on and insist on Winters being fitted!! Maybe that 39psi has been reviewed over the years? Need a deffo figure from the Manufacturers

Out my Manual, recommended winter tyres for the VR6 are 185/55/15. On 6Jx15 rims. Inflated to 2.7/2.4 BAR. (Half load)