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buttles

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Posts posted by buttles

  3. Posted

    Right!...... First photo. Those just join together to form the control loom. Launch control and different levels of slip required.

    Second photo. The two long looms draped gracefully are the injector cables, good, you have the long ones. Those are both cut and reconnected with the white plugs to form the bypass link. Make sure you are logical and make them so they can be joined together to form a circuit if you need to remove the control box.

    Third photo. Access to the wires in the loom are on the car side of the multiplug. I have no knowledge of OBD 2 wireing so will stop here!!

    Fourth photo. No. The signal wires go into the ECU in the pax footwell by door hinge. They are neatly in a row.

     

    Peasy really!! Good luck. Neil

  7. Posted

    I just have a halfords one. If your new to soldering then it's worth practicing first. You need to be able to tin the bare wires first time to get a clean join. Can be easy to burn the insulation Trying different temperatures to find what gets the best first time results. Don't worry it's not rocketry! You will find big differences between inside and outside iron temps!! Neil

    And what Kev just said!!

  8. Posted

    Answers...!

     

    1. To bare the sensor wires on the ABS loom just use a stanley blade to expose just enough to tin. DO NOT CUT THEM! All others just what comes to hand. I use a stanley all the time (Skin on thumb quite thick now)

    2. Any generic tool for crimps. I backed up all crimps with solder. I joined the injector wires with solder only

    3. Suitable diameter heat shrink then loom tape in the engine bay.

    4. You should have a loom from Racelogic with the long injector wires to run from the pax shelf area forward into the engine bay. The red switched live lead is quite short. I just extended it with spare cable.

     

    The ABS has four wires that need to be tapped into the loom. Make sure you tap into the signal wire not the shielding wire!! The instructions are a bit vague as to which channel is which lead. It doesn't really matter as you can check and allocate that in the software.

    Have you got a wireing diagram for the injector loom? Helps alot when drawing the circuit. Keep 'em coming!!

     

    Neil

  9. Posted

    Hi, problem is ,it's all buried in the car now. (as is the car right now) Control box sticks snugly on front of glovebox, ABS wires tapped in at ecu plug and injector loom inserted just under the Rad fan control unit about 4 inches back from the engine multiplug. Bypass plugs (white) sit on top of pax shelf. Tapping for rpm signal at engine ecu plug and switched live at ignition switch. Any more info pls ask. Neil

  11. Posted

    The sandwich plate, pipework and heat exchanger become part of the normal oilway in the engine. kev, did you drain the Mocal assy back into the sump as you removed it? Same reason that you need to top up the oil when you fit a Mocal. And again, the stat closes as it warms :wink: And thanks for the gauge info

  16. Posted

    Hour and a half lunch break? Slacker!! The intercooler position is possibly blocking some forced airflow. Only the temps when stationary are odd as well. The fans at 95 only come on for 5 or 6 seconds so there is good flow through the water rad. Will have to wait till next summer to sort it as now all is within normal limits. :? Cheers

  17. Posted

    Yes, would be very surprised if timing out. New rad, main pump and several flushes. Heat exchanger gets hot so oil getting there (as above, oil has to get there cold or hot). Oil in summer was more like 100C. But very rarely got much hotter even on a hot day. Was surprised to see 115 on the drive from Stealth :eek: Ah forgot, Corrado VR6

  18. Posted

    Before the Turbo conversion (and Mocal) my water was at 85 and oil 95 on a summer motorway run. After, (with Mocal) the water was very quickly going up to 100 and oil was 115. I did have a new thermostat fitted so maybe my old one was running cool? With ambient temp now around 8deg it behaves like a summer day. I had the Stealth Turbo Stage 1 done so spacer plate. I will ask Vince of the chances of slipped timing but really recon he will have covered that.

  19. Posted

    Just whatever you do DON'T blank off the unions out to the heat exchanger. The thermo plate actually closes a bypass valve to force flow through the exchanger. The path out to the exchanger is free to flow at all times. It's a fail safe incase the thermo valve fails. Since going Turbo my temps have been higher under normal driving even with a Mocal. Yet to fathom out why.

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