redwoodkp

what model you got?? If its a vr6 the pump may be inside the tank so then that couldnt be the problem. Try doing a search for fuel + leak and see if anyone else has had a similar problem

Check the tank itself first tbh!! Maybe its cracked or got a hole in it but wouldn't have thought so as they seem pretty good quality and solid units. Then look at all the fuel lines especially the connections to the filter, these have dowty washers (copper washers with rubber internals) on either end and if the rubber in the middle is perished then they will leak believe me!! If had this trouble when I changed my fuel filter, I had to wait the whole weekend to get some washers from a motor factors. If its a lot of petrol I can only imagine its from the tank itself as the fuel lines will only leak out whats stored in them, after that its up to the pump to prime the lines again so if the car's just parked and not being primed but still leaking then fuel tank is the only option iirc?? :? Hope you find the leak :)

Ha ha I couldnt have been further away if I had just guessed!! :nuts:

The only thing I can think of in that area (that I know about) is the reverse light connector?? Check your reverse lights are coming on when in gear :)

would have thought ISV if its fluctuating revs when just idling. Try another ISV off a mates car or lend one to see if it is the problem before investing in a new one or dearer second hand one

Sounds like it could be the ignition switch they melt at the bottom as mine did a few years ago. Very annoying!! :mad2: Try wiggling the key around in the barrel before you try starting the car if its starts everytime after that then it could well be the ignition switch. Not too expensive either mine was £10ish at the time

Like i said mines an early valver so different engine I'm not familiar with the later valver engines. Go onto www.vagcat.com and register. In the catalog choose corrado and the year of your car and then choose within all the sub headings. Its easy and you get pic diagrams that are quite tough to follow but give you an idea of what area in yu bay the bits you need to look at are.

Sounds like a temp sensor!! Well worth cleaning out your idle valve aswell. Dnt know what temp sensors are on the late valver as mines an early. Could be the good old blue temp sensor but thats usually more of an issue with cold starting?! Try everything you can though before buying anything expensive e.g. vacuum pipes, isv, sensors, plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap etc.

That stat you bought wasnt a neuspeed one was it?? They do a stat that opens at 80c to start cooling earlier, the standard or after market ones are usually 90c. They sell the stat and a fan switch thats 80c to start cooling earlier but not that essential in this country (even the summers cold). I've got the neuspeed fan switch fitted and that doesn't cause any low temp coolant/oil problems but is handy to back up the system to prevent any potential overheating. Hope you get sorted :)

Take it off and test it in a bowl of hot water to see if it opens and closes as it should?? My early valver sits at 85-92 for the water and anywhere from 90-104 for the oil. So your not fair off unless the late valvers run hotter :|

Do a search mate using the words fuel + guage you will find loads on this. The fuel guages are well known for bad readings and being generally crap mine isnt too bad but one day it will be a pain in the arse!!

I pretty sure that the diagram is the standard manual/handbook that comes with the car from new!! It tells you what every fuse is for and the ampage.....

If your not losing any coolant then your right it may not be the gasket but worth checking anyway. To blow the breather off must have had some pressure in the system though?? As far as starting problems go then any of the obvious apart from what you've already changed leads, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm, ignition coil, starter itself or even the ignition switch on the back of the key chamber these do burn out :shrug:

My head gasket was on the way out before christmas the car ran at 100 everywhere and crept upwards to 110 if in traffic etc. Had the head done now and re-skimmed and it never goes over 90. Are you constantly topping up the coolant?? Also make sure the fan comes on the when gettin hot especially if your car is running 110. New fan switch or even a small leak in the system can make the car run hotter. I had the head done, metal coolant pipe and oil cooler changed and still had a small leak from the radiator bottom corner which made the car run at 95 till the fan kicked in. As for the idling issue make sure the idle valve on is the right one for the car if not you may need to tweek the idle screw on the throttle body. Not sure about the 2ltr valvers as I have an early valver but the temp sensor for the idle valve can cause idling issues especially from cold starting. Well worth getting the head checked out first and any leaks from the coolant system to establish why its running hot then it may sort out the idling of the car. Hope this helps :)

Have a look on vagcat.com mate. Its free to register and in the catalog part of the website its got some helpful diagrams might show you what your looking for :)

The control unit for the isv on a corrado kr is supposed to be behind the centre console iirc :scratch:

Right i've tried three different idle valves now to determine whether thats the problem. Only one of them actually starts the car now but still only runs at 500rpm just about ticking over. I adjusted the idle screw so the car was idling at 1000rpm then gave it a few revs and it settled back down to 1000rpm but wasn't very smooth like a few days ago. I decided to unplug the valve to see if it changed the running of the car but it stayed exactly the same!! This now means potentially all three of the isv's i have tried could all be shot or is it an electrical problem to the isv?? Just done a bit more searching and boostmonkey has a post that mentions the relay no.42 and the idle control unit?? Worth changing both of these??

When i put idles at 1500rpm, i meant it fires up on a cold day to there but pretty quickly settles to 1000rpm. It never runs at that high otherwise i would definetly being tearing my hair out!! Sorry for the confusion. Cheers for the reply david. I've got a golf/jetta haynes that covers the 16v kr engine to a certain degree will have a look through the morrow to guide me. Will definetly be changing the ISV for the right one just to make sure its not that. When the ignition is on though are you meant to hear the ISv buzz when your sat in the car with the doors shut and bonnet down or should you only be able to hear it buzz when your under the bonnet?? Just thinking if its anything like the fuel pump the louder it gets is a warning to its on its way out?? Many Thanks will keep you all posted

Car runs like a dream normally no problems. Even on start up on the coldest of days it needs no throttle help to get going just fires straight up to 1500rpm and settles when warm to just under 1000rpm. Thats why im bit confused to whats going on. Will check for air leaks but i renewwd most of the connections a while back to make sure there shouldn't be any problems in that department. Only other thing to check is the air filter (K&N) but wouldn't have thought that this would cause such a big difference if not workign properly. Gonna get another ISV to try and see if it makes a difference. The spare i had isnt exactly trusted and is 037 906 457 C. I looked on vagcat and the oem is 037 906 457 D. Cheers

I know its a well talked about topic but having searched i cant find anything to solve my problem. It all started friday night when i pulled up to my drive after 20 mins tops driving home. Idle just fell to 500rpm no noises or anything just dropped. Started it up the following morning and it ticked over sweet as a nut, even let me move it off drive with no problems. Half an hour later i came to go out, started her up with no apparent issues and went to reverse off the drive again. As soon as i got the bite on the clutch the car stalled, started her up again with few extra revs and stalled, started again and just sat at 500rpm as if it was in default mode just enough to tick over on autopilot or something. I left it running for a couple of mins at 500rpm and unplugged the idle valve it never changed a thing. Could this be the idle valve then?? Left the car all day and yesterday and tried again this morning having changed the idle valve incase that was the problem. Same again happened although i left the car running on start up five mins and then gave it some revs. As soon as it dropped from the first rev it went to 500rpm again. Any ideas?? Is it the idle valve or idle screw?? Many Thanks Kieran

Wanted to try and get a genuine VAG one but rang TPS and it was gonna cost £35+ so told them where to go!! Had seen the ones on AVS and GSF but wasnt sure bout aftermarket tanks?? What you think have you had any trouble with aftermarket ones??

Got a second hand expansion tank off an R reg polo on sunday. To find out today when im swapping it for my old one that im an idiot and the sensor connectors at the top are different?? Anyone shed some light on which cars at the scrappy will have the right one or whether its worth swapping the wires over?? Cheers Kieran

Took my rondo to my mechanics tuesday night ready for the MOT wednesday and when i got there it was overheating. Got a phone call yesterday and its my head gasket. Only changed it when i got the car four years ago this sound familiar?? Thought it would last bit longer even if it was an aftermarket??

cheers mate!!

Am i right in saying that the arrow in the pic below is pointing at the idle screw :scratch: If so am i right again in saying you get them from vw?? thanks in advance peeps!! :)