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andy

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Posts posted by andy

  3. Posted

    I reckon you may have the same problem as me then, I reckon the uprated loom has highlighted an excessive voltage. You may well have had excessive voltage output from the alternator/voltage regulator previously but not seen it at the bulbs due to the 5m of cable and associated volt-drop. Now you're running the bulbs straight off the battery effectively you are getting the full (over) voltage?

  4. Posted

    bit of a long shot but you dont slam the bonnet from a height do you. i bust headlight bulbs in my old car because i slammed it too hard! just a thought really! :p lol

    lol no, although my koni suspension is on the firm side! I don't think it's that though as the old bulbs lasted 4 or 5 years.

     

    You need to get a voltmeter on your system . S/b showing 12+ volts without the engine running and around 14+ volts when it is running. Any more than that and you have a problem.

    Yes I figured that was the next step, not sure my analogue meter is accurate enough, might have to borrow a digi one.

  5. Posted

    I recently replaced my headlight bulbs as one had blown, I put in the Phillips +80% ones recommended on here. However they have only been in a couple of weeks and they have both blown the dipped element, it went on both bulbs at the same time, just after startup. I replaced the bulbs and one of the new ones has blown the same element within 200 miles. Anyone else had this, googling it seems to suggest voltage regulator issues (overcharging). How easy are they to get at/ any idea how expensive/does this seem likely?

  6. Posted

    I've done 350 miles in mine on Christmas Eve/Christmas Day. Was bimbling along the M4 at minus 8 last night, then the A34 in dense fog at minus 5. Not exactly mollycoddled! She's properly minging now, covered in salt/grime :(

  8. Posted

    I wouldn't be worried with those symptoms either. As already said mayo is not that unusual, especially this time of year.The revs dipping is more than likely an ISV problem. (Idle stabilisaton valve). Do a search, loads of stuff on here about fixing that. Give the old girl a good run, works wonders!

  13. Posted

    Can we have the part no. for the relevant Passat Part, and the price from the stealer? Mine have broken too. I have set the heater box flaps so that generally I have air in all places, or with a careful 1/8th turn, all air to windscreen. Its workable but not a permanent solution!

  16. Posted

    Probably for the same reason I don't put a wet car in a garage...... it accelerates corrosion because there's no air flow around the car to dry it off :D

     

    Do you really believe this ?

     

    I know someone who put a very good condition car in the garage for 3 years whilst they had a company car. It wasn't the driest garage, not leaking...just damp. At the end of it they had a complete rust bucket waiting for them. Tragic. I would never put a wet car in a garage.

  22. Posted

    i'm on 194k and nothing been replaced on the engine, i think i've got the point where i think if something did happen i wouldn't be too upset at having to replace the whole engine anyway

    i'd hate to spend the time/money doing my chains, only for something else to break internally a few months later due to the mileage

     

    Exactly, I'm on 148K, original chains/tensioners, no problems yet. I know one day (possibly this winter) I'll be swapping the block for something that doesn't cause cylinders 1 and 6 to oil up (i.e. 2.8 VR6 block). Will probably put a new set of chains/tensioners on then. I've reasonable confidence the car would carry on as is quite happily for another 100k+, I'd just like to get it running a little smoother, more like new, there's nothing like a refurbed/rebuilt engine and its the only bit of the car I've hardly touched in 7 years. My tensioner pad was worn 60k miles ago when I got the car btw. It doen't mean its going to fail catastrophically.

  25. Posted

    It was fiddly...until I read on here about mullering the old switch to gain access to the screw. I got a big grippy pair of pliers on the switch, then erm... 'tappped' the pliers with a hammer. The switch practically disintegrated, leaving easy access to the screw (also removed lower dash plastic for access). I think I'll manage Lisas within an hour when I'm feeling brave!

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