StuartFZR400

Catalogue has changed, and cannot find ref to all brands etc. They still doing Brembo discs? And that leads to a general question, are they now stocking new brands etc?

Good - cheap or quality finish? Body - paint or dents or rust? Theres a highly expensive place in Coventry that does a job that leaves you looking brand new.

Wel,, if you'll consider a Civic, then surely the following too: - plenty of RX8's about going cheap, low miles etc - stretch to 7k and you'll get a 350z - Vx220 - TT's galore - C6 Corvette .... etc

this is discussed to death on here; try skimming down the Drivechain page, 1 & 2 (no further), and you'll find similar threads. Also see the Sticky. Basically if you go dropping it, and buy hte proper springs, it should be fine. However the shocks will have to work harder, and a standard shock will last less time and maybe not do the full job, so best to get sport shocks to match too; hence people buy kits or recommended partnerships.

Is piano wire much like haywire? kev...

Jim I agree, My previous C had soul. Was that because I was intimate with it, due to the requent fettling? Yes, the C is rare. It also has an active spoiler, and i cant afford a Mk2 TT. Thanks for input Ian, the TT does seem a practical answer. And I'd look silly if I broke down going to a meeting for work. Great feedback Was8v, but the noise aspect, I'd be after the 3.2 TT, so Id expect a nice burble. You're right, theres more stuff to go wrong, mech and elec.

arnau yes a 30mm drop will be less harsh than a 90mm, as long as its done correctly. Each time the car is dropped lower, the springs you buy for this car need to be stiffer/stronger - this will prevent the spring from bottoming-out and giving that crash-bang effect. Therefore the standard springs are the most comfortable. In theory, all 35mm drops would feel the same, regardless of make. I recall the standard springs doign a nice job of not too much body-roll and gave plenty of comfort. However it looks a bit 4x4. Therefore lots of people Dropp, most common is 40mm - I tried my hardest to find 30mm and failed, but from memory some people managed to find 35mm. Also remember tyres make a difference. I love 16 inch wheels and IMO they're best for teh corrado for handling and comfort, well balanced. The standard 15 wheel will mean a bigger tyre wall and thus potential for soaking up the bumps better. Go the other extreme to a 17 wheel and expect a very firm ride. The tyre brand will also play a factor, as the cheapo tyres like toyo and uniroyal have softer side walls, compared to the likes of bridgestone who have stiffer walls and in theory more stable. Runs flats - expect to feel evey tiny ant you squish. Koni, H&R are commonly liked on here. Bilstien are well known to the VW scene, VERY good, and make stuff for the C and Golf. Only consider coilovers if you're extremely pinikity over ride height and will want to do Track Days seriously; for road use you'll never adjust them, you dont seem the type of guy to go overly fiddling. Go to the Wiki to find the Tyre Bible where it tells you about all sorts of stuff about setup. Just remember that the springs primarily take the bumps, whereas the shock absorber foremost will deal with the rate the car rises back to a rest position and also deals with undulations etc; you'll need a sports shock with low springs. . If the ride is still harsh, then suspect some knackered bushes, top mounts.

ROFL Best advice ever! If you are thinking about a TT how much work on it will you do yourself? Have a really good look under the bonnet, and chat to the service guys, from reading a few threads they sound like a bit of a pig to work on, like most modern cars, a feat of packaging over ease of mechanical ingress! My heart says Corrado, my head says corrado for being able to work on it. But the C is getting so old, there'll be all sorts that could go wrong, water seals etc. I had a Golf that leaked in some unknown mysterious spot and drove me made. Flip side of the coin, iv’e a new job that so close that I don’t mind breaking down every so often. But it’s the overall feel, having test driven a TT and driven a modern car for the last 12 months, I kinda like the tight feel and cannot remember how the C felt, other than it felt old. Drove my mates Fiat Coupe Turbo this week and it felt so loose. Two Face – too indecisive!!

Yes, Passat 9a (pink) is ideal for the 16v 2.0. You really do need the codes broken down - is it not in the wiki? Tempest used to know some of the codes, but that was mostly the older G60s and relying on the Bently Manual. Scanning your test, did you mention you tried for continuity across the actual ABS sensors? Fronts located behind the discs. Rears located under the rear seat.

Hold on, theres two sticky threads within this Drivetrain section, regarding tyres. Somewhre there its been discussed at length. Also see the wiki on tyres, where there is a link to a Tyre Bible that explains slip angle etc, Here. first off it all depends on the tyre make. Cheaper ones tend to have less side wall reinforcement and thus need a higher pressure. Presonally when I was on 17-7.5j rims, with 205 wide tyres, I was happy with 31/32 pressures. But on 15-7.5j rims, with 205 wide Uniroyals, I felt better up at 36/38. Its partly personal preference, partly feel. Most manufactueres will state a range these days to avoid liability problems.

see Wiki guide for full details. The copper slip on the rear of the pads is to stop both horrible vibrating noises and rust. Do not get it on the face of the pads or discs. Use a torque spanner if you can for tightening up. You might need a breaker bar if you're taking off the carriers. When taking the caliper off the carrier, its on sliding pins from memory. ensure to use both spanner points, ie two nuts. Otherwise you might find you twist the rubber boot that protects the sliding pins, which in turn will offer no protection to the pins, which in turn lets them rust, in turn making the brakes stick on/off. Lastly, Take a photo and admire whilst they're nice and clean , lol 8)

Good ol' Henny - glad you're still here chap. Tit bit on tramlining, it can be cause by a few things and I dont think 1cm offset less will make much diff. It can be more down to things like: tyre pressure, tyre cast shape/brand and tyre size. Also a bad camber will mean you're running on the edge (inner or outer) of the tyre and thus tramming will be real bad. The only note on spacers - as you've established they should be safe, considering people trackday them - would be that you need to ensure your wheel bolts still go into some thread the same amount - dont leave yu self short. Get a piccy up soon.

ok, chains. The conversation was long and confusing with my mate and the big £ signs kept being mentioned. I did however take it with a pinch of salt and hoped an audi was as equally solid as a C. I presume its costly because we're talking big labour costs; is it engine out?

Its as if time froze; this topic was well old. Yep, its that time of year, tax and MOT are due on the bike... come on summer !!

Im back into the coupe scene and wondering if a (now affordable) TT 3.2 is in order, or a VR Corrado. Has anyone here owned the TT? I've looked for a good forum with buying tips and not found one yet; Im slightly bothered about the Quattro, and trying to research this costly cambelt malarky - for which I basically understand as doable at 60k miles for anywhere 500 to 1000 squid. Or is all n sundry going to tell me what my heart says, Go VR6 C. :shrug:

Thanks guys - a fountain as always

GAP insurance I’ve had it explained to me about GAP insurance, and it all seems unfair. I was told that if your car is written off, then if you had GAP insurance, it will pay the difference between the Write Off Pay Out and the purchase replacement cost of buying a similar car. This surely therefore means that they know insurance companies will pay out less than what a cars value truly is. How can this be fair? For me to have GAP, I must have bought it from a franchise dealer (inflated price) and pay this GAP premium. Both of which I felt I should not afford. Seems to me now, that it should be something you do automatically when insuring a car you cannot afford to loose. If GAP is something only the franchise offer, and not your own insurance company like Elephant, then it seems almost like a monopoly. The story unfolds thus. I was hit from behind by another car. They admit 100 percent fault. However the independent service acting upon my behalf is stating my car is worth less than what I know it to be worth (know – ie seen many examples on Auto Trader and also seen Glasses). How do you bridge the shortfall without GAP? Or how can you bump up the original valuation of the pre-crash car to a fair price? I feel so strongly about it, that I want this company to go buy me a car with their offer amount. I bet they cannot replace like-for-like with their offer.

each to thier own. Go sit in a few. Personally prefer interior of the later 2.0L. And had it in mind that less would go wrong... a newer car; but now they're all a bit old and subject to stuff going wrong. You want a mint VR6 ;)

Nevermind Dizzy. Butterfly. I do that journey stretch everyday, so know what you mean. Im a biker, so a bit aware of what we like to get up to; all within reason. Firsly if a car or bike moves past you and slides in front - ie into the 2 second gap you've left, ie huge really - then you let them; and back off a bit. Shouldnt hog his/her bumper. But at the end of the day, you used your horn as per Highway code and he had no right what so ever to get annoyed - if i was in his position, id feel vulnerable and get on with, squeeze the gap and pizzle off; or better still, avoid the motorways. Whats worse is how he/she has to wave at you... you could easily be a nutter and knock him off. Jim, leave them to it.

Ok, so we go for a good drive at the weekend; sun blazing, good fast A roads. Make good progress behind a mk2 MR2. Wake up today, into Auto Mode, drift along the A road to work, know Im catching traffic up, so in zero rush. Glide through a set of bends, a good 15mph less than I would in the 2.0 Corrado. And coming the other way, a Scooby waving at me. Ahh fek, whats he waving at, is plodd round the corner? No worries, I can back off, stop for a hazzard in plenty of time. Hold on a second, he wastn't waving a friendly gesture... that was the frikkin w&nker sign. Now what on earth was his problem; I was well within my side of the road, I just exited the corner nice and swiftly; quicker than most because they treat the two bends as 2, and not 1 smooth one. Im utterly shocked; I never turn any heads in my bland boring family-car since I had to sell the C (the mean-looking head turning beuty it was). What on earth has my driving got to do with him? Had he caught me following that MR2 yesterday, he'd probably not have time to wave 'cos we'd be long gone by the time he blinked. Christ, can we swap cars and let me have another go round there; I reckon a scooby could hit 3 figures. Its this attitude of people today, that feel they've got to comment/gesture. I wouldn't dare say boo to anyone, in fear of getting shot - but maybe thats the problem living near Birmingham. Had none of this nonsense in Liverpool yesterday. Secondly; does everyone in the Midlands think the National limit is 50 or what!

you mean CBT and test right; as the CBT is time limited to 2 years of something, and you have a lovely L plate, lol. So test is a must have. Dont know about being quicker and cheaper. Its a false economy. Its only going to work if you throw on some jeans and jump on and go. If you go buying the full kit, you can spend a fortune; this is not forgetting that you're paying for the bike, insurance, mot, tax, wear-n-tear (oil if a 2 stroker) over and above your car. Then once you've bought it all, you've got to put it on and off; takes 5 minutes, either end, and you've lost the time saved over using the car. If you have a laugh riding to work, you might geta sweat on; nice to arrive to work like that. You can forget going uber fast; I had the RS125 for a few years, great fun, but totally smoked for grunt, overtaking pace, etc, compared to anything bigger; overtakes are doable, but totally planned. The only reason you want to do it, is for the GRIN FACTOR.

They're everywhere. No idea why they do it; its no good trying to understand it. Its done on purpose and malicious; worst when unprovoked.

its to be expected for the age of car. If you think of the pressures involved in parts of the motor, and the degridation of rubber over time, seals break etc. You could go about replacing all seals/gaskets, but what a job - motor out. But yeh, you could do teh rocker cover gasket; a 10 minute job, but wont gurantee a perfect fit and solution. Wheres the oil coming from? Well if you can get the car up on stands; clean it off; brake wash does the job. Jack it up again after a run, or spell. Look. But its like finding a needle in a haystack. Sump gasket. gearbox seals; head gasket... list goes on. Modern cars; not come across one that doesnt eat 1ltr every 10,000 mile

50 Euros? Where are you, Ireland? Think upgrading and swapping your old calipers for reconditioned G60 ones at GSF are not much more; practically brand new. The cost comes when you add up the cost of new discs and carriers and pads. Bummer

thats bound to be number 1 reason as per Dom comment. Otherwise also check top mounts of rear suspension, a free and easy inspection for you. Whereas bushes are a nutter and expensive!?! presume you've not twiddled with wheels or tyres recently? I remember new rubber being nightmare, with 8mm of new tread wobbling all over the place. Also would note that miss-matched tyres or wheels can affect too; affecting slip angle.