StuartFZR400

that kind of camber could possibly give some tramlining, but surely you already felt it. I hated it, but also found that the cornering was lovely. Can also lead to inner tyre wear. As for toe, forget about it, as long as its not changed; you've not added more bhp.

correct, plug under the housing of the gearstick is for VAG-COM. For local VAGCOM owners, see the sticky thread in the Engine section. alternatively, some people on here, Tempest, know the blink codes for the older Corrados. Light coming on constantly, then off once reset would suggest its the start of a problem. VAG com will help narrow it down to that one item, rather than replacing lots of expensive parts for no reason. If you're lucky, its typically the ABS sensors - cheap at GSF.

shame yu couldn't get the low, phat Citreon with its flarred arches, lol. (we knows its hung over a kerb) MX5 seems a hoot. The new Mk is still rear wheel drive? The old ones had a 1.8 with 130bhp, on a lighter car the the C, so should be quicker than the standard 1.8's and 2.0 C's? This lightweight steering got any feedback feeling whatsoever?

looks like they fitted some spare Scirrocco wheels on that too. As for crashing the C - what a horrid thought eh. As said, think its game over at higher speeds when met with somthing much larger. Think defensive driving is the safer option. That doesnt mean to say its full proof mind.

Is anyone really surprised by the results of 5th Gears crash with a Volvo 940 and a Renault Modus? Just a bit annoying how they sold the Modus as being a super leightweight when its kerb weight is about the same as the Corrado at 1.2t and gross weight up over 1.5t. Versus 940's 1.37 kerb weight. Therefore we already knew the Modus, tested at 40mph into concrete in the N-cap, was going to do well. Obviously its sensible to choose a modern safe-rated car over and oldies of the same weight. Still think much bigger cars/trucks will punt a Clio/Saxo etc back down the road. But thats luck of the draw - there are always bigger things on the road. Now Coultards F1 car took a good head-on bashing at the weekend... ;)

Normal shocks shouldn't bottom out in all cases. Only if the shock is designed to have a high up short travel - which is not normally the case. Typically a normal shock has lots of travel; just means on a shorter spring you'd be working from point 2.5 down to 0, versus maximum point 4 down to 0, per say. Problem with a regular shock and short stiff springs, is that the rebound goes all wrong; the car bounces back up, off the very strong spring, and has no real resistance from the normal shock. Sports shocks are much slower. If you bottom out on the wrong set up, you would most likely bottom out on the normal springs too; drive slowly over the humps and avoid potholes. Running on stiff springs and regular shocks, expect them to be knackered in a short while. Also expect handling to be a bit bouncy. Best go for entire set. ..... and that doesnt mean coilies. Those are a different world again.

engine bay, needs a good clean, but in its day to day condition.

thought twice about mentioning that - different insurers state different levels for the same car - a tad confusing. Some say 16. Either way, its less than a VR more to the point. Maybe being a '94 helps too, not sure.

did you compare both front ABS set ups? who fitted the new sensor? You saw that the new sensors was housed behind the wheel. The face of the new sensor has to be in perfect position*, not too close and not too far away from the spinning ring that has holes in it. Also check the the ring that spins is not bent, broken, or the holes are clogged up with dirt. * I mention this because getting the NEW GSF sensor in can be a bit of a pig. Maybe its not in properly. Also check the wires are connected correctly - remove and put back in. Also check pads are sat straight onto the disc, the disc is straight, etc etc. And if you plugged in before - what into? Into VAG-COM ? ..... then plug in again.

It was a cheeky sales pitch and probably too far to travel. The said 16v, 2.0L, 1994, with BBS rims (ins group 17 - ie the lowest)(one of the lowest) is in the sale section of the forum... mine; also does more than 400 mile to a tank at £60-ish (that works out just over 100 mile per £15). Cheap as chips , but you're bound to find other, closer C's for sale. I'd buy the local G60 as long as its mechanically sound - think about all the expensive items... exhaust, supercharger overhall, suspension, engine work, buckled alloys, etc.

I do a lot of motorway driving at times. You're totally right, there does seem to be a new highway code, lol. The long hauls are not so bad, but Im finding its the local run thats the worst. Once upon a time dirving into B'ham everyone seemed to get a move on and there was no aggression; but now everyone is megga aggressive - young blokes and a lot of women. Its a given that a lorry will be doing 55 in lane 1, and somthing overtaking that in lane 2 at an extra 2mph (with a view to moving back overonce there is a 4 mile clear strech in lane 1) - all of which I see as a norm. In this instance I will use lane 3 to cruse along in, then swiftly move over once past, mostly to avoid attention of plod. I used to swap lanes in busy traffic, but again it gets plods attention, seeing what other people do. But the current worst drivers, in this given situation, are the ones who pull out with the quick flick of an indicator and swerve in one foul move -- from lane 2 into lane 3, at their sedate 60 and creeping up to 70 some time next week. I'm gob smacked I dont see more accidents due to these oblivious twits ! ... sometimes its blokes, and all too often its women who just dont seem to have a clue what's coming up from behind. Personally, if I saw anything coming up behind, I stay where I am in lane 2 or move outta the way from Ln 3 - the reps often boot past so fast that you end up loosing NO time what so ever. Note 2: Im still amazed at how many women i see without any hands on the wheel while on the motorway - one last night and one thismorning. Yes, sometimes its the white van man too.

Mushy, did you read the buying guide? Thats a lot of what you need to know. From what I've seen, a lot of G60's get driven hard and soooped up; say down Jabba Sport or somthing and therefore servicing of the supercharger is regular, from anywhere 40k miles and less, pending how its driven. You'll get mixed views here, as everyone drives differently. Does the purr of the VR6 not appeal? (also know of a mint 16v going too, lol) mpg - i agree 30 seems low for a deisel; on motorway I want 50 to 60. And I hear the new polo will do 70!!??!!

does this mean its not finalised? Can I plead , beg and grovel to be put into the footer photo for runners up... Got to stand strong for the Standard Corner.

can just imagine kev squirting his Odour-de-Cheese air-freshener in the Dirty Grey Old Bastid. :lol: I must admit though I do appreciate a good old rant, as our thread-starter does. I've been in the VW show room a few times, while waiting for the Parts Dept to go find this strange old item for this strange old car... what is it... Carraeodoo somthin. The Sales Women in the Cov branch meet me with hesitation, as Im dressed in my jeans, ready to work on the C. She then wonders if I want to look at the Eos, as Im pulling at bits off the GTi. Then they hurridly shove a broschure in your hand and say have a nice day, just as you're getting into the Golf to see if it feels good. They cant tell you anything about teh car, nor are they any help. Too many visits like this and I've avoided buying another VW. Maybe one day I'll return, but for now I only like my old Dubs. Halfords - ha ! "You know you can get two for one on the Halfords own brand mate" ... no thanks. "and we're doing half price on the chrome polish" .. no , really, Im not interested. "AND THEN....." lol sorry, got carried away

and my runners up pic didn't make it :( link to the SALE thread pls Dom?

Cowboys - doesnt this apply to most industries? There will always be honest/lairs, thick/clever, helpful/useless, motivated/lazy, people in this world all looking to help or scam us.

best inform the MOT test centre too, so that they note it down in the book; so when plod pulls you over for picking your nose and notices on the database its not got an MOT, you can honestly say you are on your way NOW.

Clever stuff. When they roll that onto the 'V6's, they should see a nice economy boost too. clever indeed, more efficient i guess - always the way to go. Lots of other manufacturers are doing it too now, Mazda, Ford etc. So if its Direct Injection, does that make it like a deisel? chug chug LOL :lol: only kiddin

motors do pack up - there is a thread on how to fix this somewhere - but I'd have thought it would be gradual. Was it slow to move before? Suppose you're not sure. Sounds more electrical... tried swapping fuses? Didnt accidently dislodge any wirse when fiddling with other faults?

presume therefore you need a GTI manifold and downpipe, then somehow convert into the Corrado size (if not the same size/dia), which is easily done with aftermarket stuff. Sorry, dont know East London and who does what there. Just phone around for quotes locally. I personally knew that Magnex was local to me, as to was a Supersprint place; the onlt 2 for my preferences - although ended up buying the fruity original back box, as it still sounds sweet low down, but quiet generally. You'll soon learn who does them for a Corrado, negotiating that funny over the rear beam bit. Being a pre-1992, de-CAT is fine too.

Within the engine bay wing, is that orange sticker beside the yellow engine code sticker?

I should do a How To on this sometime. Get the discs off, you can see much easier. GSF front sensors are about £25/each from memory. The old sensor is a real pain to get out, I found. Tapped the sensor out from the outside and the plastic innards fell out, leaving a steel sheeth in there still. I then deformed that and took it out with pliers. The new GSF sensor doesnt come with this metal sheeth, but doesnt need it as its such a tight fit. Remember not to hit the new sensor to get it in. I just sanded out the hole with emery to make the hole smooth and rust free.

rears should never lock up all wheels shouldnt lock up if ABS work brake oil is only black if very very very very OLD. , more likely somthing else leaking? ... not sure :shock: but yeh, and oily substance on your tyres is gonna make is snake :?

10p's worth... Without getting onto bad driving techniques etc, as that applies to ALL age ranges. I presume all this has come about due to large percentage of teenage deaths on the roads. Therefore... Disagree with your Tier system somewhat, but the basics seem good. We already have it on bikes; a learner is restricted to a sewing machine, lol, and I think (not to be quoted) under 21's are restricted a bit too. I couldn't take my direct access until I was 21, but once passed I could ride anything; personally normal joe public should keep it to a max of a 600cc bike a year or 2. So for cars I agree with a BHP limit for newly passed drivers, but only for 1 or 2 years, then onto free reign. As for the age limit going up to 18, whats that going to do? All of us know some very grown up sensible 16 year olds and some of us know some childish 18 year olds. The real problem is what these 17 year olds are setting out to achieve in thier cars... Which leads nicely onto passengers, IMO a good idea in a small way. I think the problem is that too many youngsters are driving thier mates about and getting distracted, trying to impress the new hump-buddy, etc. But the next problem after this is they race thier mates in other cars - which is already illegal. Possibly a nighttime curfew is a good idea - or more Police in proper panda cars. Re-test has been an issues for years. Not a bad idea IMO; after 10 years all of us have a couple bad habbits - 10 to 2 anyone? lol . I think the standard test is TOO EASY. Why not pass that then get re-tested one year later to a higher standard? Within this period allowing a max of 3pts; ie hoping to calm these youngsters down. Why am I FOR the 17 current age; becuase how far can we go with this increase? I know too many mates who drove at age 17 for thier jobs. Will 60bhp stop those kids racing? Maybe... maybe not. Can they still kill themselves at 30mph? I am sure they do still crash thier mums 1.0 City Metro wit hnasty results. But it maybe just enough to save a few more lives. Also, how about enforcing the P plate for that first year too. I just cant see why all these kids wanna race. Mates barely did at that age; I never did. I dont know how these kids afford these 1.6 Corsas etc, with insurance being £2k +. You'd think that'd deter them. I've heard some youngsters having tracker systems on thier car - currently to reduce insurance. Nice idea, just hope it doesnt drift over to the rest of us... ----- Bikes again... David, what are you onabout? As said, 16 year olds have to be restricted to 30bhp. If they de-restrict that, then they're breaking the law. Dont care for the stats that you mention - I studied stats at reasonable standard an know you can get them to show anything you like*. Speak to bikers or Bike Papers/Magazines and they will tell you that bike deaths are often a cause of external factors/other drivers etc. Ride a bike and find out why they say that. However to be fair to you, yes there are bound to be a good number of deaths due to poor riders ; but its a bike and not a car - consequences are huge and hence so many people choose not to ride. Its your own decision. Going back to kids on bikes - the worst I see are the Chavs on scooters who ride with thier helmets undone and carve up the general public - just an accident waiting to happen; those same kids go onto drive the Saxos. Riding a bike has made me a much safer driver; I only know of one non-biker firend who is close to being road aware as I am. * turning those stats on thier head, it reads as 8.88 percent of KSI accidents are bikes; hardly amazing considering the protection they have; whats the 'super stats' for pedal-cyclists, probably worse. At the end of the day - too many.

not sure how we figured you're on 3 studs, but yeh, all 4 needed. Check the manuals etc and you'll see the torque setting isn't all that high as you'd expect. Garages often overtighten, causing thread to stretch and even strip or bolt shearing off. The 1ft long bar that comes in the boot is plenty enough leverage for an average bloke. Also use proper decent studs too - BBS, VW, McGuard. I presume non of the thread is showing then. If say 2mm shows sticking out of the hub, you can saw a cut across the top of the broken stud and get a screwdriver on it. Or if there is more thread, then two thin nuts do a better job when locked together. Drilling out is your last, and VERY possible, option. Also note that when putting the wheel on, make sure the surfaces are clean and the wheel sits flat/straigh onto the hub/DISC. Cannot see how disc got broken ? (GSF sell Brembo for a cheap price and its easy to fit DIY.)