VEEDUBBED

Cracked front road spring??,it has happened...,anyone need any parts for LHD cars??,VEEDUBBED's the man.

I've never put back those 2 bolts,i once tried using 2 rocker cover 10mm bolts and studs from a fiat uno engine but was still a pain.

ME!,VEEDUBBED strikes again...,i've changed a few including a 'AGC" code VR6>16v 'AYN' 'box,i'm using a gearbox off a passat TDI'99 on my g60.16v for overall longer gears,i didn't gain much because the passat has 17 inch wheels as standard as opposed to 15 inch G60 wheels,the longest geared 'box available is the golf 3 tdi's 'box,exellent for powerfull turbocharged 16valvers. The main problem concerns the removal of the 5th gear cluster,choose your puller carefully and operate it slowly,always checking that the pullers little feet don't pull on a geartooth,garanteed,it will break..,when selecting 2 gears simultainiosly in order to lock up the tranny to undo the 5th's retaining bolts,make sure you ingauge 5th and first gears or reverse,any thing higher and you risk breaking gear teeth because of the considerable force involved while your undoing the bolts. Remember the hidden bolt inside the casing(Torx) 1 last thing,your going to have fun trying to get the bearing races out of the bellhousing,the mainshaft's conical bearing is pressed into a blind hole and there bastids to remove without damage. Look me up if you need assistence,cheers,Andrew.

I don't know if you've ever built single handedly an engine like mine mate,one thing i can assure you is there's no room for the pipes inside the engine bay,2 ways around this,do like i've done and pass the charge pipe back into the G60's OE air box and open up the round hole at the bottom of the air box,and connect the air inlet to the throttle body,you could also re-route the pipe out into the wheelarch but it will foul the tyre on full lock also,i'm running a 120amp VR6 alternator. In Rome your not even allowed to put a cone filter on a car,let alone put a 2.0 G60.16v engine in place of the original 1.8,8vG60engine,fine=380euro+impound+all the burocracy(Italian...) of getting my car back..

There ya go mate.

Engine is back in,starts first turn of key,oil pressure is 7 bar cold and 2 bar hot at idle,runs rich when hot and when idleing (OE chip),bodywork painted,dash is back in,ABS light remains on...,working in 35 degree heat+nats as big as small dragon flys...the joys of corrados...

How is it that the camshaft can still be turned 360 degrees?,whichever way you look at it some valves will remain fully open,the engines should have locked up but they didn't,and i was turning both crank and camshaft in different directions without the belt installed,strange...

Depends also on the cam's lift,on a normal 8v G60 the valve's won't touch,i know because once i tried turning over the engine whilst changing the cambelt and the crank turned freely with out hitting the open valves,also tried it on a scrapped Passat G60,same thing no interferance... If you need a compleat head let me know because i've got one left,cheers,Andrew.

Strange,i don't remember the feed wire being blue/black,it might be the spare wire Vw included for a possible oil press gauge,the wire that terminates down near the distributer/RF sheild,the feed wire is red/yellow,but i'll check for you tomorow,what kind of terminal is on the end of that wire?,female or male spade?.

Driveshafts are different,their thinner,hubs are the same as G60 versions but brake disks are a little smaller,calipers are also different,be carefull,at first glance the brake disks/calipers look the same as G60 versions.

Hey Dubcharged,any chance you can get me a no-lag SNS eprom for my 9A 2.0 G60.16V corrado?,let me know what kind of details you require regarding the inj.system,engine etc,cheers,Andrew.

Tomorow morning i'm going to start re-building the gutted car,my car is kept in a barn with no water,toilet,electricity(cheap generator keeps packing up),i've changed three engines,stripped 4 different corrados+untold other work in 34 degree heat,i've had to put up with nats,moskitos,snakes,rats,spiders everywere,i've got a horrible chinese car jack that leaks oil and does'nt lift the car enough,there's no concreate on the floor,dust dirt+a few metal planks i managed to salvage in order to at least jack the car high enough to remove the entire exhaust(has any one tried to change an entire turbo exhaust single handed?),I don't care,i love my corrado and i'll never sell/scrap it.

Right then,my G60.16valver has just been re-sprayed,i totally stripped the car just leaing the engine attached in order to get the car into the paint oven,i also removed all the car's glass. The body shop repaired a big dent in the left hand sill,welded up the rear 'corrado' badge holes+the 'Vw' badge,they also repaired a dented front wing,sprayed the roof,rear quarter panels,inside door,boot shuts and filled a small dent created by myself whilst removing the rear hatch single handedly and having the bloody thing collapse on my bonze...,the rebuilding of the entire car is my job,the body shop billed me 850euro,and the job was very well done,have i been done or is that a good price??,comments please,cheers,Andrew.

I've done that mod when i first bought my g60,i used a jetta TD manifold,kkk24 turbo off an Audi 5000 5cyl engine,made up an extra take off for the wastegate,heavily shaved the G60 inlet manifold,fitted bigger injectors,made up a custom down pipe,oil feed,sump mods,water hoses to and from turbo,oil catch tank etc,preformance was quite good,got fed up with the small turbo,added a Garret T3/4,got fed up,added a 16v head,bigger intercooler,injectors,ecu.....,like rolling a snow ball down a snowy bank...

If you can,try choosing a double pass intercooler over a single pass one,they work better IMO.

Have you counted the visable threads on the steering rack's arms?,the threads should be more or less equal on both sides,try disconecting both tie rods then remove the steering wheel and center it,after sorting the tie rod ends for correct/equal length your steering should be more or less set-up,obviosly get the front tracking/alignment checked after.

Carefull about the 4x4 cosworth intercooler,the outlets won't clear the OE G60's radiator,i've got an iveco daily TD van intercooler on my G60.16,very similer to the Mercedes sprinter unit but needs a few slam panel mods to fit. Lancia delta evo's intercoolers exellent if you own a turbo 16 with a small radiator otherwise there's no room,saab 9000 or volvo 740 turbo are also exellent alternatives.

Good luck finding a good used 1 mate,if i'm not mistaken corrados from '89 had 36 spleens on their shaft ujs and rack input shaft while '91 onwards models were reduced to 22 splines for ease of fitment. New shaft from stealers here in sunny Rome=380euro+VAT...,used shafts 99% are worn,there's no way to change the ujs either..

I've got a few spare KR motor cams for spares,i've also done that same mod on my 2.0,9A G60 charged 16 valver,i'll check tomorow morning and let you know on the part numbers,by the way,i measured the lift of both cams before installing the kr motor's version,there is only about a mm's difference between both cams,i can't see what all the fuss is about...,even the exhaust cam only has barely 2mm difference.

I'm throwing out about 8 or 9 g60 pistons in good condition,if any one is interested get in touch.

Yeah h100vw mate,your correct,i always get 'em mixed up...

Yeah they are,i've got both,you have to swap both upper and lower parts,they all bolt straight on.

Agreed,the spleened part of the rack's ujs are barsteds to get back in,i just did it on my G60,added a ZF VR6 rack and had fun getting the small steering colum shaft's uj back in AND there was also that bloody spring to contend with. One thing i noticed is that it's much easier to connect up if you also remove the whole colum,sounds like a big job but its only 2 allen head bolts+2 anti-theft sheer bolts,couple of connectors to ign. switch,stalk etc and you lift it out of the way,much quicker than faffin around loosening the subframe bolts

Yes it will seeing as the clutch and brake circuit use the same fluid resovoir,and remember that there are two cylinders to bleed,one is the slave located near the brake master cylinder and the other is the actual master cylinder located on the gearbox bell housing. Once you open the bleed bolt on the master cylinder you should be able to bleed out all the air,then your cluth pedel will return as normal.

Maybe you have a cooling system problem?,i added a turbo to my old golf 16V and that car had a radiator far smaller than the OE G60's one but it never gave any bother with cooling the engine and my car was always getting thrashed...,i've also got a 9A 2.0 radiator fitted to my 16V.G60 corrado which seems small b ut i have'nt had any issues yet. You could also try using something like Redline's 'water wetter',i've used it and i can definatly say that there was a difference in running tempratures.