VEEDUBBED

I've just finished mine,i bought a green 'touring car' top tint which i bought from demon tweeks,good product but a word of advice if you're attempting this mod yourself,first i personally say that to get a first class job the tint has to fitted while the screens out of the car,the manufacturers state that it's just as easy fitting the tint without sreen removal,it's not,it's a pig of a job because 1,the corrado's screen is concave,meaning that you will have to cut a strip off the top of the tint inorder to achieve a straight edge,2,take the backing piece off the tint in a bath of water,then apply it to your SPOTLESSLEY CLEAN screen,if you fail to do this,as soon as you remove the backing plastic(already soaked in soapy water), without it being under water,minute dust particals will stick to the glued side which cannot be removed afterwards...,1 other thing,be carefull what tool you use to remove air bubbles/water,the film is very easily scratched.

I've done it,fitted a 'kr' 16v head on a 'PG' block using the G60 pistons,horribly low C/R,but i was boosting nearly 2 bar turbo press...,is it difficult?,well that's quite a loaded question,how skilled are you?,what tools do you have access to? do you have a garage?,.... 1 thing is certain,the oil ways DO line up on the 'PG' block when using a 'KR' head,it's not the actual fitting,it's all the other small things that cause headscratching/swearing etc.

I don't know the official sequence because i've got a Bently G60 manual,i usually tighten first the 2 longer bolts then work on the outer bolts,you'll see if your overtighening because the outer rubber gaskit will 'bow' out.

I've done that mod on my g60 charged 2.0 9A,i agree, i felt a small difference in torque output,1 word of advice if you are doing the job,watch those bloody half moon oil seals located under the valve cover,their very easy to dislodge and loose and they're also easy to fit wrong and get oil leaks...,same goes for the cam cover's rubber gaskit and seperate plug hole gaskit,carefull not to overtighten the cover's fixing bolts,tighten in sequence.

Yeah chippie,your right,what i don't understand is why is it that when ever i press the accelerator pedal to the floor and engauge full throttle switch does the car go lean off the scale???,yet when activated with the pedal just off the idle switch it goes rich,too rich for idle.

I had to remove a 9A 2.0 main pump off a corrado that had been standing idle for 8 years,i was working in a field...,the job was a bit of a sod but i still managed to remove the pump's retaining screws,the top 1 was a real pig because my screwdriver would'nt fit and kept fouling the petrol pipe. There is some slack but i don't think it's enough to enable you to work any easier. Remeber also that the pump's plastic casing also has 4 of those captive clips that grip the casings retaining studs very tightly,have you disengaged the plastic housing properly?

Dubcharged,yes,the meter cycles normally when idleing hot or cold,i think maybe the lamda sensor may be faulty. I also checked the full throttle switch with the engine idleing,it works because the car bogs,but it certainly does not work at full throttle,only when i lift my foot off the accelerator pedal very slightly,sometimes the meter goes rich.

Right,i drove my finished corrado today for about 140 kms,just to re-fresh,my engine is running a standard out of the packet 2.0 9A 16v mill with a G-charger,no mods exept a 'KR'engine inlet cam,C/R is original,as is exhaust,cam timing,timing,etc,ECU,chip,pulley,injectors are all OE G60. The engine has this damm annoying problem,when at normal operating temp.,and when i give the car full throttle/load the narrow band air fuel ratio meter goes lean when it should go rich(full throttle switch?),well,i notice that the red leds are all lean and the car starts to misfire and hesitate which proved quite dangerous today while overtaking...,no amount of throttle movement sends the car rich,1 thing i tried was stopping the car for a few miniuts and letting it cool down,this worked in that the meter worked again untill the next overtaking move when it started playing up again. Lambda sensor maybe?,when this fault appears,the leds never move from red any help is appriciated,cheers all,Andrew.

I'm finishing mine,going from a Turbo 16 1.8 to a 9A G60.16v is quite a change in preformance,i find the 9A engine rather noisy with the charger especially when the car's idleing,horrible whistle/drone...

Yeah,it fits 'cos i've done the same thing,the VR's gearbox mount is also a little stronger.

Which brings us up neatly to VEEDUBBED"S corrado graveyard,i've got a g60 'box already stripped WAITING for YOU to make an offer on...code='ATL''90 02A,dont like that 1?,i've got a whole '92 'CBA' G60 ' box aswell.

Loads,watch out when you remove 5th gear cogs/syncros,teeth are VERY easy to chip,don't forget the hidden casing bolt buried in between the 5th gear,casings can be positive bastids to split due to Vw's concreat like sealer,always re-new gear train circlips but be carefull because some are different thickness,measure 5th gear's pre-load before loosening the selector fork,when re-build time comes,you'll know how many mm's is needed,differential shims are real nightmares to remove without damaging the casings as is the input shaft's conical bearing,always re-new the small rubber 'o'rings fitted to the output shaft's fixing studs and all gaskits,seams obvios but you'd be amazed how many so-called mechanics save money here...,hope that helps,good luck.

I've got some spare pistons if you decide to re-build,that'sthe first time i've seen damage like that to stout G60 pistons,if your really pushing boost the first thing to go is the ring lands,unusual...

Standard pulley for now,i was thinking the same thing about the red top injectors,tell you what,let me know how much those injectors+mapped chip and postage will cost and that should settle the running issues, 1 thing that's very important is the rev limit,i need it raised to 7500 rpm,no worries about blowin the compressor as i've got 2 spare.

Hi dubcharged,i've been looking for you mate,i've had no luck getting any info on those obscure Delta IAW injectors,did you have any luck?,i'm thinking of phoning J,walley lancia down in the UK and asking them if they know how many ccs the delta injectors produce. It's ironic that an Italian produced car has so little info available even here in Rome were there are still quite a few deltas running. I still have a set of green top G60 bosch OE injectors,what do you think dubcharged?,as an emergency stop gap will those injectors be okay untill i get my chip from you?,thanks,Andrew.

I've got a problem on my 9A motored G60 engine,i can't get the engine to run stoich at idle,the engines always rich,lamba narrow band is always pegged on green even when idleing,the car starts perfectly,ecu hose is 1 meter long,black with yellow stripe,blue cts's ok,timing spot on,fuel pressure 3 bar at idle,now turned down to 2.6 bar,ditto,co pots set at 1600ohms which is theoreticly mega lean...no,still pumps out bloody black smoke,injectors are off a Lancia delta integrale,beige top weber marelli types that i can find NO info at all on those damm injectors,and i live in Italy...original digifant G60 ecu+eeprom. I've run out of ideas,any suggestions????

The 2.9 'ABV' VR6 engined corrados have at least 10 different ratio codes,just like the G60 model,'ATA','CBA','ATN','ATL','AYL'...VR6,'CDM(Golf 2.8),'CCM',export codes,Candian codes,American codes,same ratios but different R/P....

I've got a spare moddied Jetta TD turbo manifold that i used on my 1st G60 corrado,with a garret T3 turbo the preformance difference was quite something. Let me know if you need it.

Hi Dave,yep,99% sure that's a 'PG',G60 p.steering pump,you can tell the difference because the other engine's pumps have a longer shaft,the pump i sent you looks the same but my 1 was much cleaner and also contained the rear mounting alloy bracket,if that pump ever gets back to me i'm gonna tell the post office employee to eat it...

That technically isn't the rain seal,the special black sealant actually seals against the water,the seal's probably just lifted of it's plastic guide,try removing the whole strip and using a thin smear of windsreen sealant,glue the seal back on using masking tape to hold it in position.

Volvo 740 turbo,saab 9000 turbo 16v,mercedes sprinter van,sierra cos.4x4,escort cosworth 4x4,sierra rs500(huge),porsche 944 turbo....

First use the shifter tower to select 1st gear,you'll know it's 1st by manually rotating the gearbox input shaft,the lower the gear selected,the easier the shaft will be to turn,or vice versa,then remove 5th gear's selector fork first checking the pre-load applied to the fork/syncro ring,the fork's got an elongated section with a star securing bolt,mark were it is now then when you re-build the pre-load's gonna be ok. Manually select 5th by pushing down on the syncro,there you go,1 locked "box,1 more thing,those bolts holding the 5th gear cogs should be v.tight(Locktite...)-get a good quality star bit,don't use market stall garbage...

CAIOS,didn't i send you a PM about stripping down your G60 'box?,it might have been someone else..,watch out when you remove the 5th gear cogs,the teeth are VERY easy to chip and damage,also make sure you select the 2 right gears in order to lock the geartrains,i normally select 5th and 1st,by the way,i've got a spare G60 'ATA' code gearbox+R/P, already stripped out of the gearbox casings,let me know if you need it and we can do a deal.

The aerial hole on the corrado's roof is square,i thought about doing this but decided that IMO,it would look odd...

Hi Dave,the pump should be there max tuesday,it depends mostly on the Italian side of things,as usual,anyway, a few things to watch out for,the two bolts holding the pump to the alloy bracket(posted wirh pump) are bastids to re-fit,not so much the lower 1 as the 1 thats inside the flanged bit,fit the pump and alloy bracket at the same time otherwise you'll be swearing..,no need to remove pully,carefull when you tighten the short and long retaining bolts that hold the alloy bracket to the engine block,the block mounting lugs have been known to snap. Have a go yourself and let me know the the result,remember to prime the pump with Vw's hyd oil,good luck.