VEEDUBBED

Demon tweeks mate,i live in Rome,Italy,so if i get bits sent quite often by them it must say something about their 1st rate service,really exellent company that i fully recomend,i prefer mechanical gauges to electrical versions but in the event of a possible leak 1 could end up flame grilled....

Connect a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure on cold start-up,mine did the same,when i first turned on the ignition the gauge barely moved,2nd attempt ditto,3rd time the pressure went up to required 3bar,tired fuel pump and possibly a faulty FPR.

Blocked that bill,i've junked the CC so sealed the throttle body's 2nd brass nipple,G-man,it only whistles when idleing.

How does 1 eliminate that annoying whistle coming from the throttle bypass valve when 1 builds a valver g60'd motor???,there's no room to put back the boost return on the charger. Ideas pleeze.

I bought a set of roof strips for 60euro each whilst restoring my corrado.

If you think getting the valve collets off was fun,just wait 'till tou try and lever off the old hardened valve stem seals...,virtually impossible without using the special tool.

Might seem a stupid question but have you checked the basics such as fuel pressure?,blocked fuel filter,fuel flow,injector spray pattern,line pressure,part blocked injectors,gummed-up air flow plate,binding plate,fuel meter head partially blocked internally,faulty fuel primer pump,blocked up strainer on the fuel primer pump...,anyway,if you need a spare pair of load switches let me know 'cos i've got a few spare and i'll pop 1 in the post,1 other thing,located on the air flow's arm is another kind of enrichment device that has a 3 terminal connector,i forget the name of the component,check that also works,cheers,Andrew.

Try also checking the hall sender's conections and also changing the actual hall sensor,i've recently broke a 9A 2.0 corrado valver,before stripping the car down and prepering the engine to be G60'ed,i had the same problem with the engine,just like yours,started first time cold or hot but unless i progressivly opened the accelerator pedal the car would bog down and have a big flat spot,i changed over the fuel metering head and electronic enriching device located on the side of the FMU and the problem dissapered,the car had been left standing idle for at least 8/9 years though... By the way i've got all the components left if you need any,injectors,FMU,coil(the correct 1..),ecus,hall sensors,no use to me as i'm digi 1 G60 16v 9A 2.0...

I'm 90% sure i've got a few of those hex bolts(short ones) that fix down the covers on the vr motor,i don't need them because while my now famous vr6 engine was hibernating for 13/14 years someone nicked the plastic covers...,i'll let you know.

Thanks guys,yeah, i've done all there is to do,new blue temp sender,timing at ~6/8 BTDC,1 meter hose on the correct nipple,cam timing is ok(KR inlet),changed the idle valve 'cos i've got so many spares i don't have to worry,exhaust is OE with a hollowed out CAT,fuel press is 3 bar at idle and ~4 when under load,plugs are Ngk7es and are a brown/tan colour,even after pushing the engine on motorway,air filter is OE G60,boost pressure is 0.5bar absolute,remember that the static comp. ratio is the original 10.8/1 but doesn't pink at all,huge front mount intercooler,O/E injectors and eeprom(G60),regardless of the comp.ratio,the digifant ecu SHOULD fuel enough for 0.5 boost.

TTT

I've ironed out quite a few problems concerning my corrado's G-charged 16valve 9A mill,1 problem i can't seem to rectifiy concerns the idle speed. If i start the engine cold it starts first time and has an exellent idle,fast idle is fine during warm-up,the engine accelerates like a motorbike engine,the problem starts when the lamda probe starts cycling,which is normal during idle and cruising,what i can't understand is as soon as the display on my narrow band AFR starts to sweep the engine's idle is totally shot,stumbling,missing etc,if i turn the engine off and start after a couple of seconds the engine's idle is perfect,900 rpm regardless of load,headlights,steering,hrw etc,however,as soon as the small LEDs on the meter start to cycle away from stoich-crap idle,no amount of tuning the co-pot,ign.timing etc has any effect,faulty lamda probe?,then why does the meter show that the 02 sensor works,cycling,fuel cuts when decelerating,full throttle shows rich(after digi-lag).... Any ideas would be most welcom by yours truly. Any ideas would be appriciated by yours truly,

How does 1 go about running low imp. injectors on digi1?,i've got loads of big injectors but i'm limited to using small bosch G60 green tops,i've got 4 '803' green top porsche turbo injectors that i want to use with digi. I heard that you need resitors on the fuel injector's harness,thoughts please.

Were are those TWO knock sensors mate?,i think you mean VR6 motor??.

I've got 1 spare 2.0 cat,30000miles(62000km),

No alarm fitted mate,this problem developed over the last few dayswhile the car has been standing idle for a week...

I second that stevo29,whilst building up my g60 valver engine i sprayed the rusty exhaust mani. using some high temp. spray paint,utter crap,the(treated) rust came through after a couple of weeks and now looks horrible. Por15's range of products are available through frost automotive products.

A strange problem has happened to both electric windows on my car,when i open them with the igntion on all's ok but as soon as i turn off the ignition both windows close without touching the switches!,very odd and a very annoying,what the hell is it this time??...

I've done that job 3 times by myself,no windscreen fitting companys here in Rome,i just went to my mates scrappy and cut out a screen off a scrapped corrado,i even used the old sreen surround and added a stick-on green tint. Try doing it yourself?,the tools don't cost the earth, 1 special handle to pull the wire through the screen sealent,20 meters of special steel wire,tool for inserting the wire,pull and cut sealant,buy 2 sucker pads and lift off of car frame,when installing,the sealant's nozzle is already pre-cut so you don't over doit with sealant,pre cut the all important Vw rubber spacers,glue onto screen with super glue all 7 of them,insert screen back into frame of car,adjust gaps top and bottom of screen,apply sucker cups and tension belts for 5 hours without moving the car...i make it sound soooo easy.

Is the PS belt tensioned properly?,might be slipping causing that screeching sound,why would your crank pulley wobble?,unless someone fitted it 90 degrees off its locating peg...

If you fit the rack off a VR6 golf,passat,corrado make sure you also fit the 'ZF' rack's PAS pump+pressure feed pipe aswell,i did this conversion on my corrado without fitting the VR's PAS pump and pipe and the steering was normal when you turned the steering wheel slowly but when suddenly grabbed it went hard,still driveable but not to my liking,the VR6 pump is a direct fit to the G60's mounting braket,the pipe just needs to be re-routed.

Er,what bolt seeing as the diff. has many bolts,the 1s on the crownwheel,casing,cv cup bolts(02J/m only)??.

Don't suppose you need anything like pistons,cams,head,manifolds,exhausts,crankshafts,16valve head...Turbo+manifold??,as you can see,i've got a few spares..

Loads mate,like there are loads also for G60s,valvers,2.0...,go on to vwvortex,under gearbox/transmission you'll find in the FAQ section a good write up with many avaiable codes,'ATA','CDM','CCM,'ASD','AYN','AYL'.......they go on forever.

Dist. hall sensor/conector contaminated with oil due to leaking dist seal,ecu relay not making good contact,check coil connections....