VEEDUBBED

When i fitted 3 extra gauges on the dashboard i passed the wire to the oil press. gauge through a spare grommet above the brake pedal,if not you could pass the wire(s) through the main loom's large grommet,use a sharp pointed screw driver to pierce the rubber and then use the varios clips in the engine compartment to guide the sensor wire to the sender.

The butterfly disk is 68mm across.

Yeah,i just got hold of an old steel plate door for outside gas meters,scribed a line around the metal,got an angle grinder and cut away,used an 6mm drill bit and made a series of small holes around the scribed line for the inlet then i bolted the plate onto the inlet manifold using cut/filed spare bolts,i then drilled the weber throttle body's new lines onto the plate,got some long 10mm bolts and nuts,sealed the flange with silver sealant and used the manifold on my old turbo engine,it looks totally ghetto but that's the way i want it,all go and no show..

Coil=green wire+black or black/red on older '89 G60s,those are the oil press. switch and oil temp.switch,black switch=yellow wire,smaller temp. sender=black/green wire,green/black wire=brown 0.3bar switch,i hope that make's sense.

Here's my old Turbo engine all made by me using crap second hand bits,used head bolts,used G60 metal h.gaskit,used porsche 440cc injectors(free),clapped out G60 block with big lip on bores,used weber/IAW loom+ecu(free),throttle body off an Alfa 164 3.0(free),cobbled togther 2.5 inch exhaust using bits off of Iveco vans,fiat croma turbos,thema turbos,delta intergrales,by the way,the ECU off a Delta intergrale already had a internal pectal board fitted and was mapped...,T34 Garret turbo+16 turbo manifold cost ~250euro for both. The engine looks shite but i can garantee you it wiped the floor with modded Audi TT 225hp,S3s,M3s,cossies etc...(boost set at 1.8 peak and 6.8/1cr). The motor certainly smoked a bit and it drank more oil than petrol but that was my fault for putting rings off another engine in worn bores and mixing and cobbling stuff left over.

Flusted mate,read my first post,Alfas,155s,164 turbos,164 3.0 v6...

Ignore cosworths,they had a Weber t.body.

A great shame,i have a '93 'ABV' 2.9cc VR6 mill in bits,sub frame,ECU,loom(LHD),d.shafts,downpipe,front hubs/disks/pads,airflow sensor etc,that lot could get you started on your progect,i'm in Rome so the loom's is ok,i'm fed up with falling over the bits,let me know if you decide to go ahead and start your G60-VR swap. The engine's only done 32000km from new...

Yeah,under the air filter(K&N panel),boost pipe also runs in there.

Yeah mate,my pump hummed okey but when checking the cold fuel press. using an accurate manual fuel press. gauge the needle barely moved!,after the third attempt on the ign.key the damm thing started no problem...,untill the next cold start,this could also point to a faulty FPR,rare but not un-heard of. By using the brass idle screw i mean manually try and up the rpm with the engine out of cold start mode,anticlockwise raises the idle speed as far as i can remember,just clean the inner workings of the ISV,they are the components that count,just spray untill the cleaner comes out clean then dry with comp.air if you have,if not spin the bugger around on string,centrafugal force will help eject any remaining product,lubricate with WD-40 or whatever you can get.

I've got a few throttle bodys laying around,the early and later versions are the same,as is the 2.0 9A's version,the internal diameter i mean.

It could be many things,start by cleaning out the ISV with brake cleaner,carb/injection cleaner and lube with WD-40, try also re-setting the idle speed with the manual screw,blue temp sensor may be reading out of range,try swapping over the two blue/black plugs located on the water hose outlet to see if it still messes about,could be low initial fuel press. because of tired pump(s),try priming the system by first turning on/off the ignition a few times in order to raise the press,99% of the time the car will start first turn because the fuel is ready and pressurised.

I rigged up this boost return to try and eliminate the annoying whistle when remove the return or G-chargin a valver engine. The main parts used were boost pipes off golf G60s and GTDs,saab 900 turbos,varios alfas etc,all parts were free,the whistle is very faint,well worth the effort and all parts i got for free..

front view.

Dellorto throttle body...

...Or you could consider buying my spare '92 'CBA' G60 'box,no worries about fitment,ratios etc...

You want a large 1 mate?,i fitted a dellorto butterfly on my old turboed golf 2 16 valve,this was originally fitted to the old alfa 155 TS,,same component fitted to alfa's 164 turbo v6,the Vr6's butterfly is almost identical to a Lancia Delta integrale's 1, more or less the same dia.,if you want even bigger try and find a ford sierra cosworth rs500's 3inch throttle butterfly,i'll post you up some pictures i have of my spare 50mm inlet manifold still fitted on my spare turbocharged 16valve KR mill.

5th gear off a golf 3 TDI,gearbox code 'ASD',.71,if you have engine power you'll see 270+km/h,cyro treating the gearsets also is quite effective.

Does your car still have the vibration damper fitted on the front subframe?,might be worth a look.

No worrys mate,when i was building my G60 charged 2.0 valver engine i put the wrong injectors in by mistake thus blowing the ecu's drivers,i then fitted a spare unit with a different number and the engine ran i then tried yet another 1 with a stg 4 chip and a purple sticker,no problem.

Does anyone know of any shops in the London area that sells G-charger spares such as cogged belts,overhaul kits etc,i've tried contacting G-werks but had no luck,Pitstop?,dubsport?. I need a few spare charger belts and a pulley+chip upgrade,any suggestions much apriciated,thanks.

Identical pedal feel,at least on my car,if your fitting the VR's compleat clutch you could also remove the flywheel and get a small step machined on the friction face,that way the clutch has more clamping force+the uprated straps/springs on the Vr pressure plate,i did that to my corrado with both turboed and G60valver engines,no slip at all,whilst with a 4 puck sprung copper friction disk the damm thing slipped when under hard boost,go figure...

i've got a spare '91 'raddo alt+s.motor,let me know if your interested,cheers,Andrew.

TTS is located on cyl head,directly under the dist.cap,the sensor has a brown connector,the other sensor could be the fan after run therm. switch,not sure though.

It looks like a solonoid of some kind,were do those wires go?,they def. don't look O/E VAG.