VEEDUBBED

I had a vr on an engine stand, to loosen that bastid of a bolt i had to use a 4ft breaker bar with a 1 inch scquare drive, then it STILL took all my weight to get it cracked,remeber, it's a strech bolt-one use only.

Hi alan, Right, The blue/white wire normally found near the dist. is a spare wire used for an optional oil press. gauge,the wire goes to the fuse box. The brown/white wire should be for the fan/Temp. switch located on the left side of cam cover. Blue wire's for the Alt. signal to dash LED. Brown socket's for fuel temp/pressure sender located on the end of Injector rail,hope this helps mate. Regards,Andrew.

Sorry, wrong forum...

Up 'till now i'm on my 4th corrado,on all of them the brake pedal has always slowly sunk to the floor when pressed continiosly,engine running or not does'nt make any difference, the cars all had ABS,quite strange... Yes the systems all worked/braked perfectly,no air in system,no fluid loss I can understand 1 car having a defective ABS block after 15 years but 4???. Anybody else experience this?.

Hey potatonet, I've finished my 9A g60.16v motor with a g60 compressor,i've left the engine's compression ratio stock,i still haven't had time to fit it back in my car yet. Anyway,if your interested i've got loads of 1800 'KR' pistons/rods+G60 piston/rods, you could use the 'KR's' pistons and stock rods, mill 2mm of the top of the piston to form a small bowl shape then offset the small end bushes in the con-rods,you then have ~8.1CR.

Has any one else had to change their corrado's engine and gearbox mounts as often as me?, this is the third bloody pair i've had to change in little less than a year,always the same damage,ripped open bolt holes. Granted,my motors were often used in anger but why always the same thing?, the rubber parts are always sound it's the bolt holes that are found cracked... And yes they were bolted down tight.Anyone?.

Strange,i've never encountered any problems on other engines when using 84mm pistons in 81mm bores,and i'm talking about heavily boosted small engines,the difference with,say, a fiat uno turbo engine(1301cc) and a Vw 8v block oil ways,coolant galleries is not a lot,their quite similer. One could say that about trying to turbocharge an M3 bmw(new shape),that can't be done because that engine's bores are maxed out already,one has to use the 2.8 block,not the 3.2. Anyway,if you do go ahead and use these pistons the most important thing is that the boring work has to be done very accuratly prefrebly using a heated deck plate.

I've checked the clearance with a G60 metal head gasket, there's plenty of saftey margin, I used to fit Lancia Delta intergrale pistons(84mm) into fiat uno turbo engines(81mm), 1301cc into 1500cc,using a normally asp. delta head gasket with no probs,exept broken gearboxes... Struan,that you mate?, if you do decide to fit the pistons try to get hold of a deck plate, heat the block/deckplate THEN bore the block, plateau hone/flex hone etc, You will have NO oil/blowby probs. And the piston/rings will hold 1.8 bar turbo press. no problem(with correct tuning..)

Drain the filter housing first by un-doing the allen key'd metal nut located in the center of the black plastic filter housing, this avoids oil spillin out the moment you remove the canister,the metal nut is usually quite tight.Also check it's small rubber 'o'ring.

....Which reminds me,I still have a spare gear box off my 4th corrado left... If the damage turns out to be un-economical to repair consider my spare 'box off a 16valver that i bought that has stood 8 years still, 66000km(32000miles?) on the clock. I don't need it 'cos i used the engine to turn into a 16vg60,so i used a TD 'box,I can assure you it's perfect. Let me know if you need it and we can work something out.Cheers,Andrew.

A friend of mine had the exact same problem, It turned out to be a defective s.rack,the inner tie rod had developed a fair amount of play thus resulting in shaking/shimmiying of the s.wheel under braking or accelerating. Jack the car up and feel for play or clonking noises,you could also try flushing out and changing the green P.S fluid.Cheers,Andrew.

No mate, I'm sending an entire VR down to a forum user and he needs to know what the weight is so he can tell the courior service. 190 kilos seems a hell of a lot, my old gsxr-1100 weighed 200kilos and i sure as christ could'nt lift that...

The third post sounds like a crock of shiyt(the mechanics theory), why the hell would one have to change an entire gearbox+clutch for a dodgy 5th syncro?... Remember also that the 02A box's 5th selector fork IS adjustable,try that first,if no joy,try using Redline fully sinthetic 'box oil.

Hi all, Can someone tell me how much an 'ABV' VR6 engine weighs?, I read somewere that it apparently weighed 190 kilos,well today i weighed all the internal components,bare block,compleat head,cams,manifolds etc and i got 101 kilos?,I'm not covinced.... Cheers,Andrew.

By all means try first changing the power steering's oil,i'm certain it'll make a difference. Hopefull you rack's seals are ok.

And another thing to consider if your doing the ALL the work yourself, you need PLENTY of spare time,bits,small steel bushes,different belts,loads of different pulleys,washers, bolts,tensioners,were are you gonna put the alternator?,i put it under the charger,BBM and others put it at the back of the engine which, IMHO is a stupid place to put such a heat sensative component...Don't even think about doing this kind of modifiction over the weekend by the roadside. Cheers,Andrew

Hey rossy, Make sure you didn't use the wrong oil when /if you top up. Only use Vw's hyd. oil, If you need a pump, i've got a couple of spare ones left.Cheers,Andrew.

mistrall,PM sent mate.

The engine's a 9A 2 liter 16 valver, I've got all the ISVs off all models to try, i was just curios. The cluster is off a Corrado VR6.

Watch also the make of rack, TRW or ZF?, there may be differences concerning ratios between the two. Also earlier types had 36 Splines whilst later one's had 22 on the output shaft.

Breather side.

Ok Chaps, I managed to get some time off from the girlfriend and get back to serios stuff. I checked the water pump rotation by fitting a couple of spare hoses and filling up the block and head with water,span up the water pump using a high speed drill and tested,I didn't like it though,granted,the water did circulate but much slower than if the pump was turning clockwise. I was pretty much expecting something like that may happen so i went down to my mates huge scrappy and found an Audi 100,2 liter 16v and grabbed the A/C tensioner wheel and yet again modified the G60's belt route. I've also added an oil/air seperator lifted of a Alfa 164 turbo, all 16valvers definatly need one of those,by the way i grabbed that neat aux crank pulley off an Audi 80 1800 with A/C. There is a possible way to get round the water pump turning anti-clockwise,one could always add a VR6/Passat TD aux water pump and plumb it in to the head's water in/outlet?,thus making up for any circulation problems concerning the impeller's vanes orientation...

Sorry to hear that prices are so dear even over in england,get this,here in Rome, a VR6 rack(special order) costs only 520 euro...which reminds me, I still have the pipe work left over from that 29000km corrado VR6. If anyone else has the misfortune to break a hyd. pipe,let me know. if any one

Carefull mate, I had the same problem with my rack,'90 models have more spleens on the input shaft compared to '91 onwards racks,later types have 22 splines were's '89/'90 ones had 36 splines.The two aren't interchangable because you'd have to also change the two UJs that connect the rack to the steering colum,only 320euros from stealer...

Hello all, I'd like to know if i have to use the black temp gauge(Digi G60) sensor in order to operate the cluster gauge or could i just use the original 9A's 16v sensor on the head?. What about the 9A's original ISV, can it be used in place of the G60's valve?. Any help is always apriciated. Cheers.