Supercharged

Yeah I think they just made those prices up... that's the sort of quote you'd give someone if you clearly didn't want to do the job!

By doing all those things at once you should save quite a bit overall - I'd have a word with a few other places...

Really the best was to do it is just drop the subframe with the engine supported from above and do the whole front in one go, I would buy the parts yourself from VAG so you know it's the good stuff and then take a box of bits round to get quotes

Yep, that's fine... if you take the reg to VW they will be able to do a dialogue check for the service history and also check it's had the recalls etc.

Inner one is obselete but fairly sure you can still get the external one

Well done mate - really coming along now!!

If it's a G60 then use nothing but the standard paper filter in the original airbox.

Might be an original part but maybe slightly bigger for the milltek.

To be honest just go to any tyre and exhaust place - they'll have something that fits or if yo want to do it your self just get one from Halfords.

They should be 50's anyway - not 45's...

I'd look at Goodyear Eagle F1's and Uniroyal Rainsport 2's - better than the above and around the same price...

Maybe yeah - depends on if it's encrypted or not...

Take it to Timpsons shoe repairers

Does anyone have a list of the lengths of all the solid brake lines on a Non-ABS car ?

Also how many are there - 8 in total?

Also, when making lines out of copper should you make them slightly longer than the originals because you cant get them completely straight?

I have 25ft of pipe (8.6m) - that should easily do a whole car I would hope...

Been wanting to do this conversion for a while as I got some calipers / carriers cheap on eBay and also bought some re-drilled 312mm discs from Badger5 - 2 existing holes used but made smaller with an insert and 2 new ones drilled.

I tried my 16" wheels on Dinkus's car a while ago to check clearance and it was close but fine so this also made sense to do even thought it's not a straight forward conversion... The other reason to do this was I am running a MK4 TDI engine which is putting out around 150BHP and these are the brakes that would be fitted to the same model of Golf. I'm already running the MK4 rear calipers so it makes sense to do the fronts too.

Now, on a VR6 (Plus suspension) you need to space out the carrier by 6mm to get the offset right, I originally hoped the carriers would just fit on a 4 stud (Base suspension) but found they needed approx 4mm taking off the mating surface to match the offset of the discs which makes sense as 'Widetrack' = 10mm per side. I got the carriers machined by a local metal precision place for £30 which I thought wasn't bad at all!

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSCF2207.JPG[/attachment:37]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35025[/ATTACH]

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCF2210.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

The Later ATE calipers that are used in this conversion use 54mm Pistons, the same as the 256/280mm Lucas / Girling setup which is handy, this means the 22.2mm master cylinder will be fine and won't give a really long pedal like the Girling-60 twin pot conversion or Brembo's which really require the slightly larger ABS master cyl or the 25mm ones from the Audi UR Quattro.

I think one of the best features of the Corrado is the progressive brake feel and this keeps it whilst giving a bit more braking power due to the massive pads and less chance of fade due to heat because of the much larger and wider discs.

I decided to also change the Master Cylinder for a new one as the car had now done 250k miles and it being the one component of the braking system that could fail and leave you with no brakes whatsoever! This was actually much easier than I thought with all the union nuts coming off fine, I drained the brake fluid bottle and also replaced this along with the line to the clutch master - a bit awkward but fairly simple job to do and made sense as I was also changing the front brake lines and calipers so would loose fluid anyway.2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCF2219.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Some of the pics are in a bit of a random order as I trial fitted the brakes a couple of weeks ago but found the carriers were a little too close to the disc on the outside of the car so decided to remove to more material from the inside of the carrier to give a bit more clearance and margin for error...

I also found one of my wheel bearings had a slight amount of play (this was noticed when the disc started rubbing the carrier at certain steering angles!!) - I was surprised by this as the 2 fronts were replaced by Stealth less than 40k miles ago but I did know they were non-genuine bearings plus the car is putting out approx 320Nm of torque - also maybe not helped by 10 laps of Castle Coombe the other week :nuts:

After undoing the hub nuts I found that bearing had practically fallen apart and the other side was also completly knackered - maybe a good test this to undo the hubnut to check these as the other side had no detectable play with a bar under the wheel before hand so probably would have also passed an MOT like that :?

Was impressed with how well the 250k mile hubs came up after 5 mins with a wire brush :)

Obviously I had them blasted before the new (VAG) bearings were pressed in but always suprised at how well nearly 20 year old parts come up! Decided against powder coating for these as it's a bit thick for a part which has so many other bits bolted to it and the paint may crack as stuff is done up.

climatronic-manual-eng.pdfDSCF2171.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Used a Zinc primer then a heat resistant Plasti-Kote - hopefully this will last as well as OEM but only time will tell!

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCF2180.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Stripping everything down was easy, already had brakes apart numerous times on this car and a Snap-On impact wrench helps get all the suspension stuff off easily!

When I did the wishbones I found bent drop links, due to the car being stupidly low I think, these are now fine but found both Ball Joint pinch bolts to be bent!

Think this is due to me seriously overtightening them last time as I was having issues with them wearing out which again was due to the low suspension I had before I think... Torque for these should be 50Nm and I think they were well over 100 as I couldn't undo by hand easily and had to use the gun :shock:

SHELSLEY_ENTRY_CLASSIC_JULY_11.pdfDSCF2183.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Hub off....

SHELSLEY_ENTRY_23RD_JULY_2011.pdfDSCF2184.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Notice the bottle jack used to keep the wishbone at that point - this is because I used a camber gauge to keep things roughly in check - will still get proper alignment done before I put the next pair of tyres on though.

Vacuum Hoses.pdfDSCF2185.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Hub looking nice and new, all threads all taped / restored to get rid of the excess paint - that bolt in the pic should be in the ABS sensor hole to keep the crud out. (non-ABS car)

Corrado Parts.zipDSCF2189.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Suspension bolts plus the new bits you get in the wheel bearing kit - you also get a torx screw for the brake disc which I can't use due to them being re-drilled and also a new hub nut but I am using the MK3/Plus ones with the built in washer. Small tube of grease for the CV splines too.

LOG-01-001-003-004.pdfDSCF2190.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Everything back in place ready to be alligned and torqued up, Suspension strut nuts to 95Nm, Ball Joint 50Nm, Track rod 35Nm and Hub Nut 265Nm (car on ground for final torque) and you must use at least new nuts with all of these.

Corrado94.pdfDSCF2192.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Copper grease used on all bolts and mating faces

Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdfDSCF2194.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Camber gauge - set adjustable bit to 0 before removing hub and then try to get to the same setting while doing up the strut nuts (these are the only things that should affect camber with what I have removed as I've not touched the 3 Ball Joint to Wishbone bolts. Picture also shows the Ball Joint tool you need to undo the track rod ends without messing up the thread or ripping the boot.

Book1.pdfDSCF2196.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

MK4 Brake splash shields (to protect brakes from water and grease from a CV boot failure) - I thought these would fit and they clear the ball joint ok but require a 7mm hole drilled where the red dot is, also on an ABS car you would need to cut across where I have put the red line for the ABS sensor to clear. Apart from that thay are a good fit!

stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSCF2199.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Always amazes me how many tools are needed for just working on such a small area of the car!!

ETKA Corrado.pdfDSCF2200.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Goodridge hoses with stainless ends - I actually fitted these with the calipers a couple of weeks ago... The Stainless ends are a must IMO and worth paying the extra for - the 4 year old ones I took off the car were corroded worse that 10-12 year old VAG ones. Goodridge should really make these standard like on the Bike kits they do.

stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSCF2203.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Corrado92.pdfDSCF2205.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Still looks quite small in the Corrado arch!

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCF2206.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

Carriers trial fitted again before taking material off the inner part of the left hand side to give more clearance - will see how these go before getting them blasted and painted. Carrier bolts done up to 125Nm and I used the standard Corrado ones - a bit long but fine for a non abs car.

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What oil is it?

Yeah - just don't park on long grass...

As mentioned already - all of them.

 

I have just had the same job done on mine (93 VR6 on 106k miles), I stayed with standard shocks & springs and rubber bushes because it is an everyday car and I need practicality/comfort over looks. But the combination of new shocks, new bushes and new top mounts has transformed the handling* (not too surprisingly) and the car feels 'tight' again, well worth the expense for me.

 

*The standard setup is in my opinion pretty impressive, from an aesthetic perspective the ride height is daft high, but the handling is excellent for an out of the box setup.

 

In some scenarios, where budget is limited, I suspect more gains are to be had by refreshing the whole suspension system than only replacing springs and shocks with an 'uprated' aftermarket system...

Really good reply that and I agree the standard setup is superb and gives the best balance between handling and ride quality.... I am running H&R blue springs on standard gas VR shocks to get the right height down and that seems to be a very good compromise.

To be honest I don't think the build quality of the Corrado interior is good enough for coilovers and poly bushes - my G60 was practically silent and rattle free until fitting a set of KW variant ones... :(

Anyway Mr Owl - depends on labour costs etc but I would consider doing the lot along with track rod ends and ball joints, replace every wearable component in one hit and you know it's all good for another 10 years or so.

Rear beam bushes aren't as labour intensive as people think with the right tools - I saw a pair swapped by a VW master tech using the proper tool in less than 45 mins - easy when you have the right kit!

Yep - probably removed as it was rattleing... if you put it back then secure it with a large jubilee clip

What car is it?

It sounds like it's the wiring to the sensor - check the plug!

Was the new sensor a genuine one?

As Jim says those switches are crap and fairly pointless, just buy a standard new one from VW and fix whatever it is that's causing high temps.

If it's the model I think it is then make sure you replace that stupid plastic housing too - they never survive a stat change

Hi there... yeah £200 a year is pretty low to be honest (for a car over 5 years old anyway) and it's likely you're going to need to spend a bit in the next year or 2 to replace the sort of stuff that wears out at around the 80 to 100k mark - ie boots, bushes, ball joints etc...

Regarding the split boot - that would never really cause the rack to wear out, if it's one of the 2 track rod boots then worse case scenario if you need to replace the whole rod with the boot - this will cost about £50 in parts. If it's the main column boot then you might need to replace the UJ and this might also explain the second issue.

The play in the column could be a worn top bearing (part of the lock housing), loose sheer bolts holding the column up or a badly worn UJ or adjustable column (if fitted) and in that case I would think about replacing it with a fixed one (search on here for info)

You'd be lucky to get a new charger for £800 Toad - they were £1200 5 years ago so probably more like 2k now, plus the last ones were made in 95 so I think I'd actually get a new one opened and rebuilt with new apex strips and a wider belt before running it...

The other thing about having a charger actually blow is you then need to clean everything in the intake / boost system thoroughly and maybe replace the Intercooler.

It's like a headgasket - best to change it before it actually goes or you're looking at twice the amount of work.

If it's a late G60 then it shares the same pump as the VR6, new ones require a different sender but Euro should know this...

Best to buy straight from VW really - they won't get it wrong!

Should be £100 ish for the pump and another £40 for the sender

Yeah just get the black ones from VAG - £50 and last ages, new batch has a better quality backing to the ones a few years ago too

As some of you may have heard - Ronnie will be competing for the rest of the season in the VW Cup!

Car 147 of course 8)

http://www.vw-cup.co.uk/news/news_aug11_09.htm

£250 ish - no patern parts available so one less thing to worry about!

They are not £45 from VW - more like a fiver!

Won't fit a Corrado - completly different mounting points and axle bushes.