Supercharged

Well we should see some plots at Stealth tomorrow and hopefully get one overlayed ontop of the old RR day one...

The water pump is in the same place as any other 4cyl VW... the only problem is on a G60 it has a bracket and supercharger bolted on top...

There was an AGU block for sale at the Pod, brand new with crank but no pistons - £100 - did anyone buy it??

Well I made that one in the first place Dom... but yeah, sorry - Starky still has it...

Yes, APC seem to be the choice for people sending heavy car parts...

Yep, get a new one asap...

The temps are usually written around the copper nut - to be honest this is one part I would always get from the dealer to make sure you get the correct one!

chrishill, only the late VR's got plastic ones? The plastic ones are held on by nuts as the top of the cylinder head is studed, to fit a plastic one you simply remove the studs, the new cover comes with captive bolts...

DutchVR6, yeah, we were going to test the chip first but he couldn't get the ECU screws undone, rang Vince and he said to fir the manifold then just take it to him to finish off as we didn't have the connector etc needed and Vince has the experience... We fitted it (easy) and he drove it to Stealth on tues for the wiring and vac unit to be sorted, the flap stuck the first time but after that it was good, all 4 screws on the ECU sheared - only on a Corrado eh?

Kev is running an uprated pump but standard ones are fine for NA use, VSR etc.. as with most aftermarket stuff they don't fit as well as the original so stick with OE if you can, less than a ton new...

Yeah thats a good price BC as it includes Discs and Pads, these alone are about £80 new from VW/GSF... Calipers / carriers usually go for about £80-£100 alone if in good condition... calipers are also only £29 exchange if you want new ones..

The tool is cheap and you'll need it in the future, the 'haynes' method is only really viable on brand new calipers... when setting up the calipers make sure you have as little play as posible between the pads and discs, this seems to be crucial for brake pedal feel even tho the calipers should self adjust... I wouold buy new ABS cages and carrier bolts too if you can...

antera309, thats good to know but I see your selling it on eBay now? Nice bit of kit these, me and a mate fitted DutchVR6's old one last weekend then he took it up to Vince to sort the wiring etc

Can't see any harm but it won't be as accurate as running the pipe from the engine bay and as you say you'll loose the MFA reading...

Pump is 4 Bar There is a procedure in the Bentley that says it should be 2.5 bar increasing to 3 when you remove the hose off the manifold from the FPR at idle...

AmbisoniK, thats because the VR6 has the 'plus' suspension setup with 205 width tyres

You can just change the lenses if you've imported a car etc...

sciroccotune, Eh? - I don't think you can do that... Where did you get G60 calipers from on there own?? I'm farily sure you need the calipers too mate then you just use the correct pads... 16v Calipers / Pads are designed for 256mm discs...

You just need standard G60/VR6 pads...

Hmmm - thats top quality stuff, nice one Dazzy!!

Welcome to the forum... VR's are cheap at the moment and good examples can be had for aound the 3k mark but I really would have to stress that you keep a grand out of your budget to spend on the car as with any 10-15 year old car things will go wrong and the VR is the most expensive on parts. Not trying to put you off but people have been known to buy a good car but still had to spend a big amount just sorting out niggles and getting it to handle like it did out the factory...

DaveVR6, Yeah - that is a very late VR and has the plastic cam cover, yours is metal... You could 'upgrade' to one of these as they are lighter and soak up engine noise but you'll also need a new gasket and remove the studs from the top of the head as the plastic ones have captive bolts to hold them on rather than bolts. You have to do a bit of work to get to it as the manifold has to come off altho this is fairly easy, remove HT leads out of way, unplug ISV etc then undo 7 allen head bolts at the front, a couple of pipes, water pipes on the TB and various vac pipes, then just unbolt the cover and lift out the way holding the fuel pipes clear... Also a good time to check condition of chains / tensioners.

Did you get a nut ('threaded bush') from VW with each mount and bearing?? - if not then thats the part thats needed...

Just noticed your numbering is back to front... 1 3 5 2 4 6

Yep, thats right - also coilpack and original leads are numbered as are the plastic guides I think.