CrazyDave

Thanks, my cars never been called classy before :D I've not seen another N516 Corrado yet, could be from the same dealer perhaps? Blocks of reg numbers used to be allocated to dealers for new cars. I'll dig out the info from my car history folder. Got any pics or a gallery :?

And unlike me you remembered your tripod! Nice pics :)

Cheers guys. I did leave the bonnet up all day, cos then you can't see the front edge that looks like it's had an encounter with a shot blasting machine :lol: and my car does look rather dull unless you can see the turbo lovelyness :) The metal polish Andy let me try was amazing, the charge cooler has never looked so bright. Mmm double wax eh, theres more to this show stuff than meets the eye. It's not till I looked at the photos that I realised everybody else had cleaned the threads on the tyres as well as the side walls :? The brakes are on the list Kev, those AP's are something else, so think the 15" rims will have to go. Need a set of tyres soon anyway :) More expense :( KW's even more expense :( gonna have to wait for a bit.

Nice photo :D Think you're right though, wheels are perhaps the biggest factor in how the car is perceived. 15" rims (nice though they are) don't have much of an impact anymore. 17" rims with rubber bands hit the spot.

The only experience I've had with injectors off ebay has been a bad one. Rob (Heresites) had 8 injectors and most of them turned out to be faulty or spray patterns so bad that they were a bit like a chocolate teapot (ie not much good). I'd check the spray patterns and make sure they are good before going any further. Get the fuel rail and injectors out and use the test function in MS into some jamjars. Just be careful and have an extinguisher ready. Accel enrichment is pretty hard work, and by far the most difficult bit to get right on MS. I know exactly how your feeling right now Wayne, cos I've been through it on my motor. And a turbo motor is even harder to setup, because of the way the onset of boost changes the enrichment requirement. Not enough enrichment will cause a stutter, but too much enrichment will cause the same. It's all a bit trial and error, but I'd try and get it working with TPS enrichment, but you will need MAP based enrichment cos your running a turbo. So a blend of booth will be needed. The MegaManual explains this much better than I can, but if you get stuck take a break and think about something else for a bit, it takes some digesting. You'll be amazed at just how much you've learned when you do finally get through it. Don't get too bogged down with the numbers, if it runs better with a bigger req_fuel, use it. Where did you get your fuel rail from, cos I might get my MS setup on the valver to try and help out a bit more?

and much better than rusty red :lol: Nothing changed 'up front'. Same plan really, suspension (KW V3!), brakes, diff. Any more torque than it's already got is going to be hard work putting down so a bit of a waste IMO. A few pics of the old gal at U-Dubs this weekend 8) stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSC_0001.jpg[/attachment:3r53k1rv] Corrado92.pdfDSC_0006.jpg[/attachment:3r53k1rv] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC_0014.jpg[/attachment:3r53k1rv] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC_0029.jpg[/attachment:3r53k1rv] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC_0030.jpg[/attachment:3r53k1rv] DSC_0111.jpg[/attachment:3r53k1rv] Very pleased with how the paint came up, worth all the effort. :D

Looks like setting up a kind of holding area for cars sold due to 'current circumstances', so when you finally realise, 'I wish I hadn't sold it' you can just pick your car up again. Now I wonder who still has my mk1 Golf GTI? Seriously though Andy, very sorry to hear that it might come to that. :(

Wayne, don't give up mate. Not been about this weekend so couldn't give you a hand. I'll post you a reply later tonight....

Doing some final preparations for U-Dubs out on the drive. Next door neighbour pulled up and said,"Wow, your car looks like new!" :D

Cheers Nemesis, I tried pressure bleeding several times and that didn't work, think it depends on how much air is in the system. Vacuum sounds like a good idea thats how cars and bikes are done on production lines, but with a huge vac pump. They pull a really hard vacuum and then open valves attached to the calipers to allow the fluid in, fluid replaces vacuum, sorted 8) Well big thanks to my friend Nick. We set to bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way and sorted it last night (in the dark of course!). Loads of air still in the rears that the pressure bleeder wouldn't get out. The method that worked goes like this: Bleed the master cylinder, I did this with a pressure bleeder first. It's just a £20 Gunson thing that attaches to the front tyre and the master cylinder pot. Remove the pressure bleeder before doing the calipers. Attach bleed tube to NS rear caliper. Get mate to place large boot on brake pedal and press really hard. Open bleed nipple quickly until pedal hits floor, then nip it back up again. Repeat until fluid runs clear. Make sure the brake compensation valve is fully up before starting, put a cable tie around it. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after each session or all you hard work will be undone. Loads of pressure on the pedal is the key. Don't go half hearted at it, heave on the steering if you have too. Repeat all the above for OS rear, NS front and OS front. Then bleed the master cylinder again as above with the pressure bleeder. The pedal now feels really good and a spirited test drive confirmed that all is well 8) I must say that the brake pedal on my non-ABS valver feels much better than the VR ever has, must be all the extra pipework.

Think I have a spare sump around somewhere..... for when you cross your first speed bump :lol: PS sorry for the delayed reaction, been a bit manic lately :D

We've just picked up a small TIG set at work, it would be rather rude of me not to try it out and make sure it's a quality piece of kit :lol: Now what did I do with that stainless pipe I had left over...... Takes a bit of practice from the guys I've spoken to James. But sure you'll master it in no time :D

Excellent. That means that when some scrote breaks your window to nick 50p out the ashtray it'll cost £300 to get it replaced instead of £150 .. ! The car looks very "american". i.e. long and wide. (For the country where parking spaces are so big you have to drive across them.) Omigod, the interior looks like they nicked the left over bits of leather from the Campaign production runs...! :D

Well I think I found something positive!! It has frame-less driver and passenger door windows 8)

Wheels back on tonight and down off the axle stands. Went for a quick test drive, big grins all the way! Well apart from the brake pedal being worse than before :( Must still be some air trapped. Hoping to get hold of a vacuum brake bleeder to give that a try. Anybody tried one of these? Rear suspension feels much better with the new bushes in, seems to ride the bumps now, not crash and bang.

It's just a sales gimmic to get morons to buy a car. They aren't worried about the details of a dead end product that financially raped them! Hmm just like these cars are doing to us as owners now. :) :lol: :lol:

Usually caused by an air leak in the inlet pipework, this would also explain the low throttle position hesitation because your getting un-metered air in the engine. It's no the only cause but sounds likely. The ISV (idle stabalisation valve) is closing down to reduce the idle speed but it having to work outside its normal limit to regulate idle speed. Double check all the inlet pipes are secure and that any vac hoses arn't loose. The flexy inlet tube is prone to splitting so take that off and have a good look at it. You might also want to remove the ISV and check that it's clean, they do get clogged up and get stuck from time to time. Use brake cleaner and flush it through. Hope this helps

Interesting that the Corrado doesn't seem to be worthy of a mention in the VW timeline......Oh dear.... :( http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/volkswagen-world/heritage/timeline

Mocal it is then :) must have been another type that I'd seen which actually replaced the water HE. Something to watch out for on lesser coolers As usual Kev, point well made :D

Looks like the makings of a whole new forum thread then! I remember you telling me about that little challenge, but didn't realise it was raining and dark :) Nothing like a good challenge eh! Cheers James, when you start looking closely you suddenly realise just how much work needs doing. Need to strip the front corners down and have a good sort out, it's all looking a bit old and rusty. But thats a job for another time, don't panic! PMSL and so did Judith :lol: Works a treat and is the ultimate in anti-theft :)

Thats really coming together James, good work. It'll all be wrapped up in heat tape anyway, but I know what you mean. I was really pleased with my downpipe and exhaust, but its all buried down the back of the engine and you can't see it :( Good and strong is all thats really needed and it looks both of those.

I actually like the look of it... but think I'll reserve final judgement until seeing it in the flesh. From the pictures my initial reaction is (as many of you have said) it isn't very coupe.....

Think most of what needs saying has already been said, but just a few thoughts.... What is your water temperature running at? Obviously the standard oil cooler is using engine water to exchange heat with so if the waters hot the oil will be at least 10-15 degrees above that. For the record, my oil tends to run at 115 to 120 on a really hot summers day, thats running at a good speed on the motorway. Never seen it go above 122. And I tend to watch the MFA on hot days for my own peace of mind. In traffic it doesn't really get that hot, but my fans come in at 90 on full speed, oil tends to sit at about 105-110 (I have a single Spal instead of the VW heavy weight stuff). If you factor into all this that I'm running a turbo with a standard oil cooler, then it looks like you have something amiss with the oil cooler and or stat. Think that would be my first place to look at. 130 is way to high for normal running. I prefer the standard cooler by the way, getting the oil warm from cold as quick as poss is much better for engine wear (the engine water helps to heat it), but it's also true that keeping in below 120 degrees is better for the oil and so better for the engine. Bad low speed running is usally MAF related. Have you had VAG-COM on it lately? Good place to start.

The lengths all you show guys goto getting cars all nice a clean for people to look at. I must have spent 4 weeks now (on and off) cleaning under arches and under the back end. Feels like I haven't even started yet. Still not happy with the front arches or the floor. Really starting to appreciate how much effort goes into this stuff. Think I'll stick to fitting turbos, making 3" exhausts and custom inlet manifolds :D Anyway, tonights little project was to get the inside clean. Vacuumed all the carpets and mats (including the boot) etc cleaned the dash and all the glass inside and out. Found a spot under the front seats that doesn't look like its ever seen a rag or vac, down the side of the centre console by the handbrake, not easy to get at with the seats in.... Had a quick test with some new (well new for me!) paint cleaner. Dodo Juice Lime Prime. Really fetched all the old grime off the paint (although I only tried one panel). Next was Dodo Juice Blue Velvet hard wax, used a Megs applicator pad and worked the wax gently onto the paint. Left it to harden and then buffed clean. Looks fantastic, really brings out the metallic. Seemed to go on really easy which was quite a nice surprise :) Hopefully on Friday afternoon I'll get chance to go over the whole car to get it looking a bit better on the outside. Maybe Shaun will give me a hand :)

Nah, you'll only get mucky looking under mine :lol: