CrazyDave

Yeh, fuel temperature sure does influence performance, pretty much all the test cells we do have fuel temp conditioning to maintain a constant temperature for consistant results (diesels suffer with this much more though!). Trouble is you need a chilled water plant to make it work! Maybe fit air conditioning but use it to chill the engine air / fuel instead! :) Weather for Inters on Saturday is looking wet.... maybe I'll see how many miles of wheel spin I can clock up in a quarter mile! :lol:

Same for me Ed, saw two the other day but I was in a Mitsi pickup truck, DOH. Then today, all day out in the C around Leamington Spa etc, and not a sausage. Was kind of hoping I'd see Jim, as I have before when venturing out in that part of the world! Wow it was wet though, I had a strange squeeking screeching sound half way home on the motorway, couldn't figure it out until I got off. The alarm seems to have had to much to drink, double DOH!.

OK, I've had a quick read of the DTA manual to covert from DTA'isms to MS'isms, and MS calls this initial injector opening time. I haven't played with this much and it's currently set at 1ms. I'll try tweeking this down a little as I do have modern injectors that probably open very quickly. The reason I think it's accel enrichment is because my injector PW doesn't increase enough when I open the throttle quickly, so thats causing it to go lean momentarily until the map catches it. It's tricky to tune unless you use datalogging to see whats happening. It's all, do a run, check the results, adjust etc etc. Just takes time to get just right. Looking forward to Inters, standing quarter here we come! Last year, the standard car (and I mean standard, exhaust, paper filter the lot) did 0-60 in 7.32 and 15.706 for 1/4mile. Not bad considering I had a full tank of fuel!

Hi Benny16v, Welcome to the forum. I'm in Worcester along with a few others, keep an eye out in the event section as we do have meets at Whittington from time to time. Dave

Standing in front of the car the air box is on the left. A round hose coming out of the far end and going round the back of the engine to the throttle body has a straight round tube 3" in diameter with a plug on it. That's the MAF (mass airflow meter). Should be lots of threads around about cleaning, essentially involves carefully cleaning it with some electrical contact spray to get rid of any buildup of muck thats got past the air filter (usually problems start after fitting a K&N or similar oil impregnated element). I don't think you'll do any harm without the ISV, but it'll never be as good without. It allows more air to enter when cold starting to go with the extra fuel and also raises the idle speed slightly upon initial starting, so you might find cold starting more difficult when the weather gets colder. The idle speed is also controlled using ignition advance, the ecu advances and retards the ignition to maintain the correct idle speed. Sounds to me like you have at least two problems, because the ecu does a pretty good job with most situations, but if the ISV, MAF and throttle are all out of spec it'll struggle to cope. I'd suggest having a look at the MAF, two different types exist, the early one has a wire, the later is what looks like a thick circuit board. The MAF has a self cleaning process that it does before starting. It heats the element to several hundred degrees to burn off any contamination, but this doesn't always work, so a good clean is worthwhile. If it is dirty it won't read at the low end of the airflow range (around idle, part throttle etc). It's a critical measuring device for the engine to know how much fuel to inject. Make sure the throttle body is adjusted correctly and that the ISV is clean.

The closed loop AFR is set to be fairly slow, so I don't think its that (and it still does it when I turn it off anyway). So it looks like its when you change throttle state, when it's steady at the site it's fine, but if you open quickly it dips lean, and when you close quickly it dips rich. Think it's fine tuning of the enrichment (or EAE as it's called in Squirt). It's happening before the map sensor sees a change so it could be the map sensor filter is set to high, but on boost the sensor is a bit 'frisky', so maybe not. Minor stuff though, just me being fussy.

I must be getting used to the extra go :lol: ! Not good cos I'll be tempted to go for a bit more boost! I'm still not 100% happy with the accel enrichment, needs a bit of tweeking to prevent a little slight lean tip-in I'm getting.

Excellent stuff Kev, not sure I'm brave enough to post my settings yet! Wouldn't want anybody to kill an engine by using rough mapping from me. :) You seem to have several more degrees of ignition advance than me across the board, might give that a go on the MegaSquirt.

Sounds like the throttle body might be passing air, it should be fully shut and letting the ISV do all the work. If its cracked open the ISV will try to compensate and also if it open too much the ecu will not be registering that it's supposed to be doing idle control (cos it thinks the throttles opening). If you have access to vag-com then you can check the throttle pot feedback (should be about 6 degrees but less than 12 will be fine). The throttle stop screw should have yellow sealant on it, if not it's been messed with. If no vag-com just adjust the throttle until its fully closed (you can feel it if you slacken the screw right off and then tighten it until it just touches). You should then be able to plug the ISV back in to do it's job. Presume you've cleaned the MAF already?

The method of gearing the engine crank speed up for the compressor. V9 uses a mechanical gearbox, hence the gear whine and chatter at different speeds. Rotrex uses a planetary drive with friction coupling (ie no gears), and a special gear fluid. The gearing is much higher than the V9 and the unit is very quiet, so you'll get more boost lower down the range with this baby (can you guess this would have been my choice before going turbo!). http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/rotrex.html Diagram of the Rotrex.

http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_bovinstall.pdf Here :) . Mr Beige, well I don't get to write the code for the actual car system, just the systems that are involved in testing the car system on a rig. But I bet you get up to some interesting stuff anyway, just different stuff. 8)

Looks very nice! I always liked red, just living with it thats a pain :) Are you planning on attending any of the local meets? Bristol / Worcester etc.

World Rally cars make a new kind of noise, like a 'chirp chirp chirp' I believe this is caused by the boost control system that trys to balance the blow off together with the wastegate. It actually doesn't release all the charge air when the throttle closes, so the inlet is still pressurised, so when you open the throttle again the pipework already has pressure in it so minimal lag. That and igniting fuel down the exhaust to keep the turbine spinning (chirp.. chirp.. bang bang bang!). 8) I just like writing threads with wordy explanations of car noises :lol: Also on rally cars with the sequential shifts it only takes a nano second to change gear so not really much use in bleeding it all off anyway. Oh yes, very fast change! The electronic throttle lifts very slightly to reduce torque whilst the car is mid gear, but thats not so much of a problem these days because the gear shafts are syncronised to prevent mashing the drive dogs between gears. All good stuff!

I love the awesome delivery of torque from tickover with the G60, my mates Golf Rallllyeeee (think thats enough lll's and eee's) was very lazy to drive and BL88DY quick. For me, I like both (he says, in a sitting on the fence kind of way!).

World Rally cars make a new kind of noise, like a 'chirp chirp chirp' I believe this is caused by the boost control system that trys to balance the blow off together with the wastegate. It actually doesn't release all the charge air when the throttle closes, so the inlet is still pressurised, so when you open the throttle again the pipework already has pressure in it so minimal lag. That and igniting fuel down the exhaust to keep the turbine spinning (chirp.. chirp.. bang bang bang!). 8) I just like writing threads with wordy explanations of car noises :lol:

Imagine you've got the throttle wide open and accelerating down the road, turbo whisttling away, then back off the throttle (to change gear). The throttle body closes, the turbo / supercharger is still spinning putting pressure into the pipework (and stalling the turbo), it has to get out somewhere or the pipes will all start blowing off! So.. when the throttle closes it creates a vacuum in the inlet manifold, this sucks the diverter / blow off valve open and the excess pressure is released out of the system (and allowing the turbo to spin without load). When you open the throttle again, the vacuum disapears from the inlet manifold, the diverter / blow off valve closes (cos it's got a spring in it), and the system pressurises again and off we go! The only real difference between the two is blow off valves release the air out completley (and make a 'pssst' noise) and diverters (strangely enough) divert back into the system near the air filter somewhere (still make a 'psst' noise but not so load as it's still closed into the pipework). Hope that makes sense.

I really don't get this kind of trouble, Toyo Proxes tyres made a load of difference for me. OK so first gear is a waste of time but 2nd goes down really well in the dry. Standard box, no diff.

VR MPG is very dependant on how you drive it, mine would return 30-32 mpg on a run. Which is probably better than the Skyline but only just. G60's are great, but keep on top on the charger maintenance or it'll get expensive. Valvers run for ever and MPG is great. Stick a turbo on it for some serious fun!

Nice pics!

Up for discussion at the mo, I suggested this weekend!

I think Kev means you can apply a bit more timing at the bottom end to get more torque. But, it needs a standalone ECU or Motronic programming capability. Although thinking about it, Motronic would be less likely to pull the timing for knock with a better burn, so it might be more eager to stay put after a reset. The cars back together by the way Karl, if you fancy popping down sometime, let me know. Looks like another Worcester meet is in the pipe aswell. Cheers for the MSD info Kev, although it looks like my chargecooler is in the way, but I've seen a picture with a set mounted on top of the rocker cover, so might look at that. As an alternative charge cooler idea, I've used this little lot from http://www.chargecooler.co.uk A different approach to the Schimmel kit but seems to do the job nicely. The really nice thing about the PWR cooler is that it will fit under the bonnet without relocating the battery and it doesn't have a large water tank in the boot. It is only rated to 400hp versus the Schimmel at about 600ish if I remember correctly. Most of the cooling is acheived by running the fan on the small CC radiator all the time. The inlet air temp sits about 10 degrees above ambient even after a hard run and the cooler is always cold to touch. Pressure drop is about 1-2 psi for this size cooler (10"x4"). Most of the water volume is in the pipework and it only has a small header tank for topping up the water level. View of the cooler core. Fits under the bonnet nicely. Not sure the MSD coilpacks will fit in here? I'll have to order some and have a look. Small 10" radiator fits in front of the normal radiator with a couple of brackets that I knocked up and some rubber bobbins to isolate any vibration. It only just fits behind the front panel and I did have to modify the fan brackets a little to get it to sit back a bit. The water pump is again rubber mounted under the NS wing / front bumper off the horn bracket. Fan and pump are wired to an ignition feed via a fused supply. The best bit for me was that the whole thing only needed two M8.5 holes drilling in the front panel (for the rubber mounts), so no cutting, hacking required. At the end of the day cold air is what is needed, if you touch the boost pipe before the CC it's really hot, but the outlet is cold, job done 8) .

Get that R32 sorted with the V9 Vortech, then you could still go turbo but R32 turbo instead!! Great writeup Kev, shall I post up some alternative charge cooling stuff for a bit of variety?

Might just be the initial oil from the filter that contaminated the MAF element (especially as it's just been fitted). The later 'thick film' MAF's are much better than the old wire type, but still need a clean from time to time. I always used to run a paper element but changed it along with the engine oil (every 6000 miles). Only ever had the car stall twice and after cleaning the MAF it was fine again. Interesting what Kev was saying though, my car doesn't use an ISV for idle control anymore (I have one fitted but it's just for cold starting and warmup, then it's switched off). The TB is just cracked open for idle air, and it doesn't even try to stall.

VR's have two knock sensors. One on each side of the block. Never heard of one failing though, unless the wire or connector gets damaged? The handheld fault readers are a bit basic sometimes, sounds more like cam sensor or MAF to me. The car really needs a drive around to get the fault codes active as Motronic 2.9 doesn't remember them when the ignition is turned off. If you can get to Worcester, I have VAG-COM and would be happy to have a look for you.

Thanks for the comments guys, getting a bit bogged down with cold starting and idle things at the minute and I keep forgetting that it does go rather well! If fact on the way to work this morning, I was mulling over the 'off idle' MegaSquirt settings whilst sat in the traffic through Worcester, I cleared the traffic and had a lorry to overtake, squeezed the throttle and an instant smile appeared on my face! Forgot all about idle settings for the rest of the journey :D :D :D . Looks like MSD coils it is then Kev, I'll consult your thread for a shopping list. zider, I've got to edit the photos on the front page cos the forum won't let me edit the thread title due to the pictures being to big. Another job for the list! R32 with a V9 would be awesome! The R32 engine has loads more mid range torque than the 12V anyway, engine managment might be fun though. Emerald do a box that'll drive all the R32 engine stuff (they do supply the ecu's for Storm Developments cars).