dr_mat
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Everything posted by dr_mat
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I don't remember trying to be witty...... ;) Seriously though, Neil L - what sort of flat spot? VR6s have a noticeable but slight flat spot between the big torque lump at 4000->4800 rpm and the next torque lump between 5200 and 6000, it's perfectly normal. It's not much, but it's noticeable.
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How do you "tune up" an electronically managed engine? It's either got a faulty engine sensor or it needs new plugs/leads/coil pack ..
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Almost an ex-Corrado owner!! [Whats that? All fixed? :o)]]
dr_mat replied to saysomestuff's topic in General Car Chat
See the "Corrado Recalls" thread: ( http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13717 ) VW Corrado possibility of coolant leakage into passenger compartment WVW...50.KK 000 001 to WVW...50.KK 014 927 01/08/1988 31/12/1989 If your VIN falls into this range, your car should have been recalled. If it doesn't fall into this range, you have the later fittings which are more robust. The changes made were really only designed to prevent boiling hot coolant from spraying towards the driver/passenger - they were never going to be able to prevent steam coming into the cabin, despite the obvious danger of reduced visibility... I had the same happen on my old Cavalier, ironically right in the bloody middle of nowhere (at the Stonehenge car park in fact!), and that was pretty scary too. Fortunately it only cost £50 to get fixed on that one... :) Unfortunately VW seem to think it's cool fitting a consumable, £30 part BEHIND the dashboard, requiring pretty much a complete dash removal to get the sod out... -
Funny how we're all arguing about the best course of action here and the original poster is nowhere to be seen. :roll: Perhaps he's realised he took the reading on a slope and is too sheepish to admit it...? ;)
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What, "Four Wheel Drive"? Nah, you need at least Eight Wheel Drive for that kind of power.. ;)
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Are those standard struts?
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G60 is grp 17 insurance, iirc, so marginally cheaper. Many big insurers have a cut-off at 17 though, and will offer silly prices for 18+ cars.
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Has anyone tried Costco? They only do Michelin tyres, but they're usually at fantastic prices..
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Hmm, we appear to have looped back to the beginning of this thread... It's a 1.8 16v, it's not got a CAT! :-P
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In that case we take it *all* back, it's fantastic and marvelous, and everyone should have one. I've just ordered two, they're that good! I'm sending my crappy VAGCOM back!
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Remote start, is there a kit that does this?
dr_mat replied to jedi-knight83's topic in General Car Chat
Car also come from the factory with cruise controls, but if you retro-fit one you invalidate your insurance. Point is, your remote-start thing completely defeats the purpose of having CAT1/CAT2 immobilisers... -
I'm sure it'll be fine to pootle back to the garage.. After all, maximum oil pressure is at maximum revs, so if you keep it below about 2k rpm it'll be pushing no greater oil pressure than when it's "normally" filled at higher revs. All IMHO, of course...
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They don't decode, they just tell you the code numbers, so you have to go look it up in a book. Plus they're much less flexible than VAG-COM, in terms of taking measurements etc etc, but it'll do what it says on the tin, apparently. It'll read and reset fault codes, so for those that don't need any more than that, great. If you have a laptop already though, freebie VAGCOM and a cheap cable (available on ebay for less than £40) is definitely the best all-round solution.
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I'm pretty sure I mentioned that in point 2, pablo... ;)
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If you don't know how to loosen the sump plug, you should take the car back to the place that over-filled it and insist they do it...
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Yeah, and then suck it up (and spit it out) ... ;) No, I prefer the suggestion of loosening the sump plug slightly, you should be able to get it loose enough to drain a little oil off without having it dump the whole lot on the floor, particularly if it's up to temperature.
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Bad news, you'll have to syphon it out. Make sure you've not got the car on a slope first.... ;) 1.8 16v don't have cats, so you don't have to worry about that, but it can cause over-pressure problems..
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http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... e+pressure
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Most likely a wheel sensor. Serious? No, the brakes still work, but you'll be able to lock the wheels now. Checked? Yes. Otherwise... Cost? Just reading off the error code is cheap. Fixing it depends what's wrong! Does it really matter? How annoying is the yellow light? If it comes on during the MOT it's a fail.
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Errr yes, cos it's bolted to the strut, which turns with the wheels...
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My personal opinion? Save your money. Others on here have had it done and really rate it though, so each to their own. If you want a light-feeling, revvy engine, great, go for it. But if you want more performance look elsewhere...
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Dunno jim, but I sincerely doubt it. Depends on the details of your policy. Point is if you replace a bumper with another one that's had work done on it, that's your choice. The car still only has ONE bumper on it. (And the OE was probably more expensive anyway!) But if you were to add a turbo or supercharger (or Schrick!) that's something that is additional value. Tarting a car up just makes it more stealable, because it attracts more attention, hence the increased premium.
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There is a downside, but in most cases you'll not notice, or the trade offs will be acceptable: you'll have more vibration transmitted under load, plus it'll be easier to stall the car. And as said previously, make sure they know what they're doing! Oh, and don't believe the hype. Your car will not make noticeably more bhp due to a lighter flywheel... It won't lose you torque, because it doesn't affect the way that the fuel burns in the cylinder, pushing the piston down... The engine will have less inertia, though, which feels similar..
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Erm, good question actually. I don't know who owns the car between claim-being-made and claim-being-accepted-by-both-parties. I've heard of other people storing the car themselves while this takes place, but I'd guess different insurers have different rules on that. Tell them you'll save them the storage fees if you store it yourself while this process takes place.
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The fans should be cycling on and off anytime your coolant is above 85 degrees ish, plus after the engine is turned off for up to 15 minutes. You would know about it if the fans came on! They're a massive current draw!