dirtytorque

yeah sump.They are strong.As said,best to try and spread the weight out a bit tho with something. be careful. :salute:

at least your getting the niggles out of the way early,and in the summer when your using the C more you can maybe get the daily in good working order ready for the winter slog.

window regulator maybe?? You'll have to venture deeper inside and have a look. I had a similar problem in my golf I need to buy a new window regulator for it Can't be ar$ed at the moment but I managed to get the window back up with some jiggery pokery. Either that or your door window switch may be faulty. I'd check this first actually as it it simpler/cheaper.

Very 8)

I experienced no clutch slip with my faulty slave cylinder,just an annoying and dangerous non returning clutch pedal.

ok so on my g60 pin 24 on the ecu goes to the vdo tach input.Its a green and yellow wire that goes onto fuse/relay panel connector G1/12 Basically you need to connect two 6k ohm resistors, (small 1/4 watt is what is used) in series. The top of the two resistors goes to the coil so i wired in to pin 25. Where the two resistors meet in the middle go to the VDO tach guage so i wired it to pin24. The bottom of the two series resistors has to be connected to ground,I 4get where i picked that up from. Thats it hth. Robert.

clutch slave or master cylinder could be failing maybe.

Ok well as i said intercoolers/aquamist etc will aid fuel economy in the non aggressive areas of your engines operation.Obviously that is not what tuners have in mind when they fit them but power and effciency are flip sides of the same coin. Most road cars will have an area in their MAPS designed to allow for good fuel consumption.To attain a particular afr target the amount of fuel needed in an ignition event goes down the cooler the intake charge is. The amount of fuel increases obviously as boost pressure increases.So if you can increase your boost pressure and keeps temps down you will use less fuel to attain a particular target air/fuel ratio and torque figure. Most good mappers would not totally ignore fuel economy in a lightly/moderately tuned g60 and your target afr's would not be extremely rich under part throttle at moderate rpms. What I am basically trying to say is that Just fitting a fmic would not cause the ecu to simply dump more fuel across the engines whole working range.In fact in some areas it will use less. A colder charge is also less prone to det/knock/pinking and ignition timing will get to a more advanced state b4 the knock sensor is called into action and so better torque will be produced which again will aid fuel economy in some areas. Is it not possible that your fuel economy has simply just been getting worse slowly over a period of time? Since you have had your fmic has your driving style changed maybe? :)

u make it all sound soo easy. git. :)

earth strap doesn'affect fuel i don't think. So was it pretty night and day when the intercooler went on? how bad is it?

A cooler and therefore denser air charge will facilitate more torque than a warmer one and so it is possible for an engine to run leaner under these conditions and still do the same amount of work thus getting better fuel economy. A good engine map can take advantage of this in the non aggressive areas of the map. I agree that it is not cut and dry but i would be looking at the basics 1st.

Intercooling should make a car more economical when driven accordingly. I would put the fmic fitment aside 4 now and troubleshoot all the usual g60 fueling points that could cause over fueling. :)

I wouldn't get your hopes up. You'd not notice 5bhp difference on the road. Better to leave home ten minutes earlier every day and get cooler air into your engine - it'll make just as much difference! . :lol:

An officer of the law pulled me over and gave me a warning about speeding last year,but then he started gushing about the corrado and how nice they were etc. Turned out to be a pleasant experience in then end. :)

good start. that cam belt has seen better days. :lol:

good practical stuff. Liking it. keep on keeping on. :salute:

Many diy'er's go this route and enjoy power increases with no immediate reliability issues.Not the way to go in an ideal world but if your running moderate with the boost then you shouyld be ok to a point. I'd say the closer to 300bhp you get the dicer it will become on stock internals with stacked gaskets. If your abusing a stock engine you can't expect stock VW longevity from it. Have a read on vortex.LOADS of ghetto FI builds on there where they discuss these types of things. case in point. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184068

cheers for taking the time to post pics. Don't apologize mate,engine bay looks good to me. I really couldn't care less about bling.Did you make that boost pipe yourself? Which 20vt engine are you running then? hows she go?

Marginally quicker than the valver? and a bit more reliable maybe?!??

You have to use two resistors in a potential divider configuration as per that link I sent.You can't just put the resistor in series. Is that what you did? Let me know if you need me to be more explicit. edit: And the resistors are in the kilo ohm range too. It is still an analogue signal it just needs a bit of conditioning. hth.

its actually for a 16v engine project just need to come up with something for my engine breather to feed it back to my supercharger.

Cheers Rob. If it's no trouble. Just what to see what fittings lead off from that pipe really from different angles Rgds Rob. :)

Personally,i'd say no. Saying that I had one on mine which I experimented with a bit.To get the most of it you'd need to set it up on a rolling road. Not sure it would be worth the rolling rroad time and you will probably find that the best all around compromise is to have it set up as factory anyway.

has anyone got any more pics of that pipe and the breather setup. Maybe from a different angle too? Cheers. :)

its just a great looking car. Irreplacable for me really.