Fanjita

I've got c6 vrg :-)

Looks like the right ECU to match kev, one thing though I'm seeing the year of manufacture as 03-04 on that code? Is yours therefore an earlier r32 ie the audi equivalent of the mk4? Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the mk4 end in 03/04? Edit** Wait I've just seen a few other places, it looks like your engine is much newer (what build date have you?) but the ECU is from around 2004 so MK4/5 issues? Do you want to try a swap with my ecu and see if the correlation error disappears? Double Edit** Sorry I've just realised im captain obvious here, you've already said you know thats the problem. The sensor mismatch lies within the cam wheel itself, not the pickup. To get your ecu to work you'd need to change the cam sprockets. We will see if my ECU eliminates the problem on Sunday if you like, I can then hunt up the old routes i took to get hold of my ECU if it helps (and if Vince can't get you the right one) J ---------- Post added at 10:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ---------- Does the mass of torque early on lull you into a sense of disappointment with performance up the RPM range? I just feel it's not that quick! Low revs or speed and planting it does give the impression it's not your standard VR though!

What's your ecu part number Kev? Your engine is a bdb code isn't it? Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Hi, Interested in the Keyring, any chance of a pic at all?

Ok great, any chance you could meet on sat? I can take you flying as well if you want. You ok to come here? I'll pm you my number. Check this artistic shot!

Sorry for the delay I will check this for you later today. Cheers Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

That's awesome news Kev! Have you got a fully working vag vom then mate? I could do with getting mine checked! I just have the vcds lite which is hiding errors (yes I have many!) are you about this weekend/week? We need to meet up anyway to compare! Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

There was nothing wrong with the MOT Sam, it got through it fine! Don't know if you knew but these will go through the MOT with no cat? I was worried that not having a cat would mean I'd have to make special arrangements to get it through. I went through the MOT manual and spoke with the tester, it says that if there is not an EXACT (so engine code to vehicle) match to the vehicle in the emissions database, that it should be tested as a non cat. Happy days! That meant it had to meet 3.5% CO and 1200ppm HC, it did 0.8% and 172ppm, pretty good I'd say! Ill get you those details mate, it used the can wires which Mark had included in the loom for me anyway. Just needed the two wires, the feed to the clocks, and then for me to make up a permanent 12v and ground.

Just so you know guys, the Corrado sailed through it's MOT yesterday. I sorted the insurance and tax out and had a few drives in it yesterday. What an engine is all I can say! 1st gear is just spin happy, but second onwards doesn't have any immediate grip problems, could it be the wide 17" toyos? It just goes like a scalded rat and that's before I have done the SAI dummy and EVAP plumbing. What an absolute machine though, the pedal has no discernable lag and it makes some awesome noises! ---------- Post added at 9:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:03 AM ---------- [ATTACH=CONFIG]69037[/ATTACH] :D

Yeah its pretty much spot on mate! It's the CAN M8 one, I can give you all the details? I do mate, £20 plus postage sound ok?

As Peebee said, off the actual mount! Once you get the 3 bolts off the mount, it just slides out, its then a case of undoing an allen bolt (good luck!) on the underside then the mount slides apart. You are basically left with the bottom cap and inside there is a rubber cylinder with a metal shaft running through it. I then simply trimmed 15mm from the end of the rubber and then took 15mm off the shaft. As the shaft is threaded I drilled it a little deeper and retapped to allow the allen bolt to tighten up properly.

I think he's swapped it out for a bike engine, would explain the 1.3 and the quick gearshifts. Look at this page on his site: http://www.manfredkonrad.com/profil.html

Thanks :) Yeah that was for the pedal, it seems very easy to locate. I haven't quite finished that job yet however, I've been working on the EVAP solenoid. There are 3 pegs under the pedal which need holes to locate them, the top recess has a hole for a bolt to go through. The bottom two fit into two pins on a bracket you can get from the dealer. At the moment I'm cutting the carpet using a template which I made to fit the pedal as tight as poss (I made it on card, is this something I could scan and share with others?). My idea is to drill a hole for the top part to bolt down, and let the carpet hold the bottom part firmly. We will see how that works out tomorrow. That was down to trimming 15mm off the rear engine mount mate, I haven't seen how it sits without doing this but I do think it sits fine this way. Can bus converter Sam, I wired it up pretty much the day after I got it. Its James btw :)

As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine. Have a look and tell me what you think!

Temperature sensor seems fine, the only thing I did notice was the r32 sensor was reading 10 degrees warmer than my gauge. The fans ended up kicking in when the ecu was reading 105 but all the other temp references were matching. I will ask soon to add all the information I can to the 24v guide! Hopefully we can document everything so that future conversions can be done with ease.

Getting there guys! I've still got this idle issue I was wondering if anyone had a similar problem. I haven't plumbed in the SAI dummy or the EVAP solenoid yet, but I don't really think they could be the cause. Basically it starts on the button and without problem. After around 1 min of idling the engine seems to roughen slightly (is that the switch to closed loop?) and the engine idle speed drops until its on the verge of cutting out. It then fights and chugs for a short while before bringing the idle back up and working fine thereafter. I have checked for vacuum leaks, error codes don't seem significant at all, I did have a hint at a lambda problem which appeared while I was plugged in and this idle problem showed up. I noticed the lambda values on vagcom were affected too, they went from the normal 0% to something like -1%. This was on both though, so it may be something else at fault. Any ideas?

Well pedal is working as expected now, the fusebox is an absolute mess! Considering getting an electrician in maybe to fit a new alarm at the same time. Does the fusebox normally struggle to sit properly after all this work? The pegs will sit in the hooks alright but when I attempt to push the top in to fit the clip, the whole thing pops out! Might be the relay (fuel pump?) sat on top of the fusebox, does it sit in the middle on everyone elses or does it go at one end? I've also fitted the Can converter so rpm is now alive. Decided it was about time I made something to go in the service history, so I whipped up a spreadsheet. It's actually quite impressive the work I've managed in the last 3 months! Vehicle Mileage: 177,000 Parts/Work Mileage on part Manufacturer 2006 R32 engine 10,000 OEM Steering rack 5,000 OEM Track rod ends new OEM ARB drop links new OEM Custom loom new SWICT Clutch & thrust bearing new Sachs Lambda sensor x2 new Bosch Thermostat housing new Unknown(GSF) Can Bus converter new Canm8 Stainless manifold new Dubpower Stainless decat new Dubpower Alternator 10,000 OEM PAS Rack 10,000 OEM Spark plugs new NGK Oil new Castrol Coolant new OEM R32 ECU unknown OEM R32 pedal new OEM Thermostat 10,000 OEM PAS Fluid new OEM Brake & clutch fluid & bleed (dot 5.1) new OEM Gearbox fluid new OEM Exhaust manifold gasket new OEM Intake manifold gasket new OEM Oil temperature sensor new OEM Oil pressure switch (high) new OEM Oil pressure switch (low) new OEM R32 oil filter housing new OEM Oil filter new OEM Core plug new OEM SAI relay dummy resistor new Maplin Engine bay clean - - Rust removal on front crossmember - - Rust removal on front subframe - - Accessory belt new OEM Gearbox clean and fit new bushes on linkage - - Work completed 01/05/2012 - 13/08/2012

Bump still available and open to offers.

Bump

No time on the weekend to drop by at all then Kev? I'm just doing the same with mine, last few odds and ends! Looks awesome though mate, I'm a bit lost on your ecu plug layout though, mine is routed along the engine side of the bulkhead then both plugs enter the original engine loom hole! I don't think I could route my loom the way you have done yours, unless I've used the wrong path!? ---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ---------- Oh Baz, the guy who sold me that gear said there was some non standard map on the ECU, might give you a few ponies. Don't know any more than that but thought you'd like to know

Sorry are you asking me? My exhaust is the original with a dubpower manifold. Why do you ask?

Awesome, cheers mate! There's no rubber grommets on my loom for going through the firewall, I should probably get one! Although how would i fit it to a loom thats all wired up!? Should be attached before the plugs are joined up shouldnt it?

Any chance of a pic you two? You not made another hole in your bulkhead for the wires Kev? I also meant to ask, mark was saying to me I could post my ecu to him and he'd test it on a car he has in at the mo! If you're nearly sorted maybe you could help me test my ecu? It's just to work out if the loom has the connection prob or the ecu. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

I used the website meat-doria which lists part numbers and locations (just shove in the car details for your engine, it even shows you the right engine code). You can then see which part numbers fit which bank. I could only plug it in one way due to the plug shapes. Well I've narrowed it down mate, it appears to be the ecu or the plug. This was confirmed by moving the ecu around and putting pressure on the plug. It looks like my bracket doesn't sit the wiring properly so I'll need to adjust it. This is where the ecu is loosely placed and works. As soon as it's in the bracket, dead pedal. Looking at the wiring this is the way it is supposed to sit, I might have to break the welds and sit it closer to the hole in the bulk head.

I would leave it out, I have blanked off my SAI port. It takes a lot of space at the front too, Something which I don't have. You may be able to locate it in the original air filter location if you wanted it, but it's just an emissions thing anyway. Pins looked healthy, cant see anything directly obvious. I just gave up and left it earlier, left me really frustrated at it all tbh.