krnau

bad news. today I cut off the blue-white wire and apart from cracking the tachometer "plastic-glass cover", the following has happened: my power stage (is it correctly spelled?) has stopped working, because the mass wire which goes to the power stage, is this blue-white wire! very strange... I have to say that I cut the blue-white wire that goes from the radio to the spoiler ECU ... please some help!

is your mfa correctly working?

WTFG!!!! :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: 1,24& per litre???????

well the main problem is MFA does not show the following: speed total kms instantaneous consumption and anything related with km... I changed the speed sensor located in the speedo (seems like some kinda magnet ) :( could the blue-white wire be causing this MFA malfunction? I've checked all fuses in the box..

thanks! :D :D :D

:(

please I need some help :tumbleweed:

I need to say I have used the search tool so here we go with my problem: the MFA does not print anything neither in speed nor in fuel consumption. it is, that it shows "--.-" (and so is mpg ) then, obviously, the spoiler doesn't work automatically. only with the button. -> all fuse are OK! -> I replaced the speed sensor in the speedo watch (in the what? :scratch: ). it is, not sure if you know, behind the speed watch in the speedo, visible if one takes the hole module out. (yes, I am not English :pale: ) what problem is there? Using search, I found nothing about it... thanks! EDITED: Well, the question is: why does the spoiler switch have 5 pins??? As it has no "interior light", it should only have 3, shouldn't it? one for up, one for down, and one for ground??? :eek: I post it because I think my spoiler problem would come from the fu***** switch **** My MFA does show the MPG only in "cheat mode". However it doesn't read speed neither in this mode.....

mine does it as well :scratch:

well. In my case, I have placed a new sensor (the one between the airbox and the carosse ( :ignore: )), and the problem is still there. I have disconnected the cold start injector and still the same. So I think it will be the coolant sensor. I have found two of it, of 2 different marks: 1. FAE 3,8& (is said to be a s**t) 2. ?? 16& supposately the good one. next week I tell you what is going on when I change it, let's see if all together we get to fix this problem!

attached to the airbox,there is a temp sensor for cold start, like a thermosthat. could it be this what is working wrong?

hello. if someone gets the coolant sensor reference number, please post it as I need to buy it too... thanks :)

I have some problem like yours, mate :( As many have said, revise the ISV, and very important: the tubes taking the air from the air-filter box to the engine.. maybe they have a small hole or something, which makes your car go bad. I would take it to a mechanic to inspect the smoke coming out from exhaust. maybe, with it, you find the problem

well, mine, starts like 'TRAC - TRAC - TRAC - TRAC- TRAC" for about 10 seconds (in which I have to maintain the accelerator pedal), then, suddenly, stops doing this sh

the mileage is 14,000 since the engine was rebuilt. first time, temp is not that high. I mean, it is that

hello. Well sorry if I use invented - words :camp: I own a KR and some times has starting up problems. At first, it seems it works at 3 cilynders, and after 10-12seconds, wow, it works well. It usually happens when engine's oil's temperature is between 122 and 176

thanks. anyway I have both KR cams for sale..

Hello. The question today is: what difference will make it, if I replace my KR cams with 9A cams? Thanks!

IN-CREDIBLE!

No, leave it, I have it bookmarked! ok, thanks. However, I thought some one would say it was found useful...

well I see no one comments nothing about muy tutorial, maybe it is not useful? should I remove it?

you can find on ebay hong-kong, 100 blue leds at 6&inc. shipping... and only need about 7-8 resistors, since window switches (x3) don't need a resistor

well sorry if I use some non-english words :D you should take a look at this: for example, if you use a 12V DC, you have to know that maybe it goes up to 14,5V when the battery is being charged. if you use blue led ( it was my case :D ), they usually work at 3,2V (make sure of it!!), with an intensity (

could you please, or someone, tell me what product would make my rado shine "again"? thanks 8)

hello my friend! The color of your corrado is as the one of mine! with one difference: my rado's color, because of the time and the sun corrosion (I imagine that..) has lost the shining yours have! Could you please tell me what you have done, in order to make your rado shine as his first day? Thanks!