StueyB

After your next drive, lock the car and wait... ;-)

Been meaning to respond to this... I've been running a Hella rad for a good 30K+ now and I've been very impressed. I went through the usual routine when searching for a replacement rad, struggled to sourced an original, didn't trust the pattern black GSF jobbies, ECP were pretty unhelpful basically saying they couldn't tell me post order what manufacturer rad would turn up. Ended up going with an independent outfit called Aaron Radiators, they are online: http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/. Very helpful bunch via email. This is what turned up: Was very happy with quality, fit and finish is excellent. I had also noticed the slight difference in thickness but have noticed no adverse effects, if anything the car runs cool as a cucumber ever since. The rad was replaced along with a a lot of cooling related components so i think the combined effort meant the drop in temps were very noticeable. Having recently taken the car off the road and started to pull it apart I've had a chance to take a look at the condition of the rad some 2 years later, all looks dry as a bone, few marks from flying debris but still in good condition. Definitely a worthy O.E. alternative to the D.M. original at a slightly cheaper price.

Falken 205/40/17's definitely come up smaller than most 205/40/17's so are a good option for a couple of mm clearance. Yoko's as mentioned tend to come up larger along with Goodyears. Bridgestones & Toyo are other brands which on the whole come up smaller than average in varying diameters. Best to go find some real life examples of each tyre and judge for yourself.

Glad to hear. Exactly what happened to mine. I think this is caused by various wrestling matches you have to have with the fuse box in order to work on. I'm guessing they get moved in such a way that the clip on the plug is pushed in and the fusebox twisted enough to release it from its location.

I'd start by checking the obvious i.e. fuses. Unsure which one controls this but a quick look on the bottom of the fuse box cover should inform you. If all ok, see if you can find a wiring diagram and confirm which plug in the back of the fusebox corresponds to this particular loom, IIRC its towards one of the sides of the fusebox opposed to in the middle. If this is all plugged in and looks ok its time to start removing some trim. I'd start by removing the a pillar trim and potentially the headliner (I know its an arse) and check the condition of the loom. This loom runs up the A-pillar and across the roof, providing power to the sunroof, interior light and sun visor light. If this looks in tact i.e. no burnt out sections or wires melted together I would then follow it back to the fusebox and ensure all looks a-ok up to this point. I had a similar problem and I did this whole process in reverse only to find the fusebox plug had popped out and I'd removed half the car and sourced a replacement loom for no reason. You learn from your mistakes. If something from the above doesn't uncover the problem then post back up and i'm sure someone on here (if not myself) can assist further. Process of elimination really.

2nd dibs on this please....for what its worth.

If you could have a check mate that would be great. Cash waiting.

N/S - sourced. Thanks Tim. O/S still required peeps.

Broken fog lamp...?

Can I ask why the ignition being on is important..?

Pm sent your way Tim.

After a pair of foglamp housings for a late spec car basically to cut up so if anyone has any with broken glass etc that I'd be very interested. Failing that just the plastic housing itself. Let me know what you have. Cheers, Stu

Got a couple of these also so will check when i get home. Pretty sure one is an A and one is a C. Be in touch.

Shape of the corrado dash really doesn't lend itself to an iPad install. IMO it would have to be mounted portrait and take up most of the centre console space which would require relocation of the heater controls and top vents aswell as losing part if not all of the cubby hole at the bottom. Would love to see it done and have it connected running various in car apps/music/nav etc but I think its rather ambitious in order to get it to fit OE looking (if that's even possible).

Stick with some 205/40's but do some research into what specific tyres look like on 8's. You'd be amazed at the variation on actual size of various 205/40's for example. Falkens tend to come up small along with Bridgestones, Yoko's tend to come up big along with Continental for example.

A slight oversized torx bit (that you potentially don't mind damaging a little) hammered into the cheese head, sorry I mean bolt head. Worked for me on many an occasion. Even when the allen key bolt head was mashed beyond recognition. I like to think of these as tricks of the trade but should only be used as a last resort.

Hello mate, Happy with rusty as long as its not bent / damaged / kinked etc. Happy for it to be sent 2nd class slow mail. Hows £15 sound posted...? Best way i've found to send things like this is to get a couple of thick postage tubes and attach them together. Keeps the item from getting bent. Stu

No worries dude, finding the whole thing quite amusing myself. I think i've always referred to them as a splitter, front spoiler to me makes me think some one has removed the their rear spoiler, flipped it upside down and glued it to the lower part of the front bumper. Conjures all kinds of crazy images in my head. I'm going to stick with splitter even tho it would appear I'm in the wrong.

Tim, Just to clarify, its not the actual splitter i'm after but the metal re-inforcing bar that attaches the splitter to the bumper. Assuming you still have this..? If so how much postage for that, again its a little difficult size wise but i've got a method for posting stuff like that i can share.

Guys, completely forgot I posted this. Thanks for the help and offers, pm's heading your way people who have offered.

Hey there, Do you still have the front splitter bar...? Assumings its in good condition, i.e. not bent or dented. How much posted...? Regards, Stu

As title. Both removed from late spec VR6's. Some how got put to one side when breaking and never sold. Both boxes have included cables and are free moving. Would be good for replacements if your heater controls have become stiff. Box 1: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180690794896&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_831wt_948 Box 2: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180690795250&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_827wt_948 ---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:19 PM ---------- Found an almost new Valeo Heater Matrix also whilst digging through some stuff. PM me if interested, don't want a lot for it.

As title. In new condition, bought to be banded, never got round to it. Perfect to roll a project around on or use as winter wheels. Link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180690792208&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_4064wt_948

Re-listed due to timewaster: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180690674140&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_6447wt_1139

Can anyone confirm that 535 813 989 A is actually the US style number plate trim piece...?