Dox

Mine does this too, I find its better if you have the nozzle upside down so the feed pipe is vertical, even then it won't take full flow, most of the time I give up (

There's a thread elsewhere complaining about the low prices of 4mo running gear, I've got a 10V and a 20V gearbox from V5s - the gear change is much better / shorter and a 24V head complete. The 20V V5s and 4mos suffer with cam / crank timing correlation problems indicating chain stretch, but replacing chains is not always the fix, they need the best oil and regular changes IMO to keep the VVT gear clean. Anyone got any 1/4 mile comparisons with standard VR6 and 4mo engined Corrados?

Would V5 gearboxes out of MK4 golfs be good for this swap? Or a swap into a standard VR6?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56705-my-vr6-Shed-on-Wheels-..&p=732065#post732065 I hope the owner dosn't mind me borrowing his pic Personally I don't think they look too bad (much better than a lot of aftermarket alloys IMO), I may go the refurb way now

Does said shed have shelving? Tis only ground cover until you invest in shelving to store all unwanted widgets until sometime never.

Very nice. My car is currently as it left the factory on speedlines, I have a pair of NOS 16 inch RX2s and I'm waiting to find another pair of NOS at reasonable money. I bought 4 205 50 15s on the VR6 rims but the previous owner of them paint them black - a rattle can job, including the centre caps, wheel weights and probably brake dust too. I've been through all 49 pages of this thread and not seen one fitted with them. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49630-Post-a-Pic-Only-your-best-pic-of-your-car/page49

I've just bought some tyres fitted to 15 inch BBS (RX?) wheels off a late Golf VR6, the wheels have been badly painted black, does anyone have a pic of a Corrado fitted with these wheels to help make my mind up to refurb or weigh them in. Thanks I'm surprised there isn't a wheel thread here...........

PM replied to

How come you didn't go the powder coat route this time? Are you disappointed with the speedlines finish? I used the same people to coat my Audis wheels and considering what the started with they seem to be fine (they've only been back on the car for 2 weeks and I'm asking if the finish will deteriorate). The painted finish looks spot on by the way )

Clean the throttle body and check for air leaks would be my first port of call.

Whats the problem with the engine? was it scanned with the engine running?

Hi,PM'd you several days ago with my address and asked for your paypal address, I've yet to receive it. Its no biggee, your health comes first, I just don't want you to think I'm a time waster.

Yes thats fine, paypal gift? These wouldn't happen to be the same as VDO gauge illumination bulbs would they?

I've only just seen this thread and I know it was started with good intentions, but it seems a rather good way for the unscrupulous to locate a Corrado and steal it or parts from it? I logged out and I can still see the link to the map, I wonder what an insurance company would say if someone were to have a theft claim and they were to find the car listed on an open to view database? IMO it needs some sort of security setings to prevent missuse, these cars aren't the most secure and there parts worth a great seal in some cases.

How much for 2 bulbs posted please ;o)

Stunning, inspirational even

I'm with peter best on a classic policy

You can rewire it to a switch on the dash until you can investigate further. A fused wire direct from the battery + to the horn, a wire from the - of the horn to a labelled switch on the dash, and the other side of the switch to a good earth point behind the dash. I had a volvo 740 that had the horn disconnected because the column had partly collapsed (like its supposed to do in a head on crash), there was a measurement in the haynes manual for the correct length but I only found this after replacing the column with a second hand one.

If the wire was earthing after the horn the horn would sound, IMO you're looking for a short between the fuse box and horn for it to blow - to check this out connect a fused wire direct from the battery pos terminal to the horn pos terminal and press the horn button on the wheel. HTH Sorry. I didn't read this properly, ignore my post

For around a tenner why not just change the flexi?

Has the hose collapsed internally holding the brake on? I have a pair of 280mm carriers

Strip and clean the brakes, make sure the caliper slides aren't seized or the pads seized in the carriers.

I've had similar probs with an audi cab that been sorn for a few years - the pedal went to the floor, new master and bled by the garage made no improvement, I bled them several times using the 2 man method, I then bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-Bleeding-System-Kit-VS820-/140531959466?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item20b85b86aa A cracking bit of kit, I was also advised to wedge the pedal down over night - this pressurises any air bubbles in the system and they split into smaller bubbles and are easier to get out. I bled all 4 corners ( make sure the rear brake compensation valve on the rear axle is fully open if fitted), then opened various pipe connections to see if any air is trapped. I used the car yesterday and the pedal is improving all the time

We've got a 2001 Golf GT TDi pd 115 (remapped to 140ish) at 80 MPH its doing 2200RPM - impractical for a N/A petrol engine I would say

Smooth front bumper DBP VR6? driving towards Nantwich at around 2.30PM today