g0ldf1ng3r

a bit of a drawn out test would be to put a temporary matrix bypass in easily done with a bit of copper piping you could then run the car for a few days & see if you still get the greasy film you describe, if you dont then it points towards a faulty matrix if the matrix has a pin hole, once it is not under pressure it shouldnt leak i would have thought

i was kind of thinking the same sean Endeegee, if you can get the carpets up & spread a little talc around it can show you a trail of where the leak comes from also, with minimum basic tools (except a hose clip tool which are a few £'s) replacing a matrix is really just a step by step job with lots of labelling. valeo matrix is the one to get if possible i have a full guide with lots of pics showing screw locations etc, if you would like a copy drop me a PM with your email address

likely not m8 best thing for you to do it whip a wheel off & look on the inside - you will see the ET stamped or embossed onto the wheel somewhere, they normally have the with in J as well eg 7.5J ET40 the specific figures are needed so as to calculate the offset etc properly

i believe you are right & that they had arrived but were not fitted - i wonder if they were sold with the car or not ;)

i think odub meant more as in the wheel spec: size, width, offset ;)

i would say you are best talking to Vince at Stealth i recal nick, who owned & turbo'd N333PPP prior to selling, had invested in a set of stronger gears for the standard box to be rebuilt with. this was in addition to the LSD had had fitted when the turbo setup was done i think it may have been Jon at Stealth who helped him source the new internals but i might say in members gallery if you can find the N333PPP thread

yup, the latter is a must too just speak to VAG-hag for his experience or look at the old n333PPP build thread

good question Jim - there was a lot of deliberating i tried to compare the cost of all options, so looked at replacing standard, 288's & 'other options' i didnt want to only replace one standard caliper as knowing luck etc the other would fail or stick soon after i also needed discs & pads so to put new, well refurbed as new as that is all you can buy i belive, standard kit on was going to be around £390 if i used the same EBC USR discs 288's i knew would fit under a 15" but again they would be a refurbed set (if i could find some), or a second hand set of which i would have no real idea about how much use i would get out of them before they needed a refurb, or buy a set & send them for refurb before fitting thus i did some educated guess work math on the 288's, calculating cost for 2nd hand set, cost for refurb, new discs/pads & new braided brake lines with banjo's then i looked into what 'new' options there were, whilst bearing in mind that dragon_green on here has HiSpecs on his rado under standard wheels as i definitely could not afford to buy new wheels as well lol i should mention that with my VR's dodgy ABS i used to have issues with locking up under heavy braking, though this was eased very much with the USR discs & green stuff pads, but i was a little loathed to replace old crap standard brakes with crap new standard brakes lol when i did the math the figures for all 3 options were not that far apart & for around an extra 150 notes i could have brand new rather than refurb calipers but also a 'proper' caliper. i say 'proper' as with the standard & 288's they are what i believe is called a floating setup rather than a 'true' caliper. IE where both sides of the caliper are static & the pistons move the pads either side onto the disc (forgive me if that is slightly wrong but hopefully you get the gist) as well as this the HiSpecs are 4 pot, giving much greater application to the pad with 4 pistons & i believe a bigger pad swept area than the other 2 options finally, due to a little vanity, i have always wanted to have yellow calipers on the VR in homage to the porsche GT2 calipers which are always yellow lol as such i now have these & these :D lol EDIT: i forgot to say, no, no plans for turbo sadly. i would like to but i am realistic in the costs & it is not just the stealth kit....very BIG brakes, bigger wheels, potential bottom end rebuild & gearbox internal strengthening has got to come out over 10K lol

how the blimey hell did you get wilwood's for that!? i had to ensure fitment under the 15" speedline so went HiSpec, brand new yes but a lot more than £120 lol

that is exactly what i thought! lol

yes m8, well, late VR's anyway as my 1990 valver didnt have one the 1st time i owned it conlog jobbies IIRC but they also have a manual disable normally in the passenger under tray

thanks fella - kinda what i thought & also what i had experienced in Oct i gave her some full beans after warming her up & she behaved for the next couple of weeks these rado's dont like to be stood doing nothing, they throw toys out the pram if not used lol

you can hear for yourself - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR6-amp-1-8-16V/page7 ;) couple of videos on there & pics on page 8 i love it though & it has gotten better with age in terms of sound in fact there are currently 2 reasons i cant wait to get the VR back.... 1. to test its new 4 pot HiSPec Billet 4's but also 2. because i have missed the burble i can get when downchanging, ooo its sooo nice!! unfortunately i couldnt get the video to capture that but it will give you an idea & then i wrote full review type details on the updates on my build pages

just to let you know Longlife in birmingham managed to fabricate a new SS on my lowered VR with everything in situ - it was £400 with hiflow cat

hi delfinis when it starts rough, having been stood for a couple of months, do you find it clears up with a good run? reason i ask is that the VR is sounding rough after starting & i am unsure if it is due to not being used since beginning of december or if i have an ISV niggle upcoming. i dropped it off at my mechanics at start of dec but it had to wait for HiSpec to manufacture the calipers & then christmas & my mechanic being ill. he said it was struggling to idle when he last moved it

a millions times these! i have ran avons, continentals, michelins & some others & for my VR i will only runs RE002's this is due to their performance, both wet & dry, but also for their wear rate. plus from what i have read, the bridgestones have a more firm sidewall which gives amuch better feel & response when driven hard example being - in past i had some avon zv5's which only lasted about 6k miles on the front - compare that to the over 15k miles i have gotten out of the bridgesstones i would also stick to the 205/50/15 where possible

ha ha i bet you looked like a dog getting air!! pmsl fortunately i fixed the matrix last summer so i have heat of some form but i didnt reline the air box flaps when i had the dash out - doh

My VR is fairly pampered but i am not lucky enough to have a garage so the paint has suffered - i used that every day for 5 years & it was nice in the winter, what with the heated seats & how quickly it gets warm in the cabin that was until i brought my valver back as that now gets used in the winter - though it has been quite a bit colder due to my hearer box flaps needing to be relined lol

ha ha i would agree with the latter sentiment Jim lol i belive the element repair is similar to how you would repair the element in the rear screen

i think they are available from Heritage but likely to be expensive. i have read about people fixing the existing elements where there is a break in them

lol that is another option :)

good question easy no part listed on GSF a quick google & i can see the fuse/load info for the galaxy heated seats... 3, Brown, 5amp ABS, ASR, ESP, Cruise, Aux Heater, A/C, Alarm, GPS, Heated Seats, - See more at: http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-mk2-fuse-information-circuit-and-rating/#sthash.ufmDQzw4.dpuf i would take an educated guess that if the rado also uses a 5amp fuse for the heated seats there is a good chance the relays would be similar if not the same as surely a relay is a relay as long as the incoming/outgoing loads are the same EDI: i can find one for a mondeo....hmmmmm

hi m8 no ive not had the seat out yet plus the VR has been at my mechanic's since before christmas & prior to that the relay wasnt playing up like it used to - i wonder if me leaving it in the 'on' position all the time helped it sort its own life out lol i think it will be a spring job now but i will try to remember to update here or my build thread once ive had a look

my VR looks lovely - if you raise the bonnet & dont look at the bottom of the wings lol

oooo go on lad :D