Erny

Mk2vr6.com so much info on there mate, rados n mk2s share the same front end, valver fuel pump is sufficient enough, u will need a vr subframe from a rado or mk3, engine, gearbox, ecu, loom is plug n play, on mk2 u need to do a little jump d8 to d12 on the fuse board if I remember right o make the clocks work, but as corrados come with vrs, this may differ, some stuff will be dependant on weather u have a early or late valver, I imagine vr n valver front crossmembers differ, u can use the valver wish bones n driveshafts, there's prolly more but I can't remeber right now

Turns out my freshly port n polished filly re-coned head decided to drop a valve, I'm guessing a collet not quite clicked in place, managed to put a hole in the 4th piston, and ruin pistons 2 n 3, my re-honed bores survived, so the block is salvageable, the head is scrap, I'm gutted, few days wasted puttin in the new engine, drive around Babyin it stayin below 3000revs and then puttin the old engine back in, nuff money wasted, how I never heard it go is beyon me, I've not even got a stereo in the car, moral of the story, if it ain't broke don't fix it, as gutted as I am, I've still had a goodtime with me mates int garage this last 2weeks

Any signs of Mayo from the dipstick? Ied take it for a good run, like everyone above says, it's probly condensation.

I agree with the pressure test, what's the longest journeys you have been driving with it like this? When it's running and nice and warm, pop ya bonnet and try squeezing the pipes to and from the radiator, if you can't squeeze them then your system is usually pressurising, My old mk2 did this, I could drive Sheffield to Leeds or Loughborough, and loose less water than wen I was sat in traffic driving thru town, There was no loss in power witch had me thinkin it was an airlock at first, replaced my headgasket and it was fine n dandy. I'm not sayin yours is defo the gasket but It sounds alot like my problem, be aware that if this is the case you could burst a water pipe, and end up in the shit,

Drivin down the m1 the othernight my engine just died, popped the bonnet to find smoke coming from the airbox, any ideas gents? Now the car turns over but will not start. I'll get it in the garage tomorrow, I'll check all the obvious engine faults, but I'm alittle unsure how to check if it could be a fueling/metering head fault. I've a spare engine that I can swap in but don't wanna waste time putting a more tired engine in if the fault could be elsewere. Does anyone have any suggestions, point me in any useful directions.

Haha, ied not thought about the p.s rack being heavier anyways cause of the fluid, learn something new everyday,

haha we jumped most of the puddle, I shit my pants and the car shit the bed, my car wouldn't go for days after, I thought ied killed it, undo ya dizzy cap if ya got one, pull all the leads to ya plugs and leave it to dry out, mine was fine after a fewdays, get your lasses or ya mams hairdryer and give it a helping hand, On ya first drive take it easy and go give it a good long drive kinda like ya bedding a new engine in. chances of suckin water into the engine would be pretty difficult unless ya feet were also getting wet, Did ya manage to get puddles in your strut tops, cracked me up wen I saw I did.

If ya take the bumper off replace the bumper bolts with nuts and bolts, the front engine mount sits on a cross member held up by the bumper bolts, cams come out and re-time up pretty easy, when u remove the tappets it's advised to put them back the same place they came from.

Drove today with no powersteering belt, and the corrado realy is heavy to drive, I know comparing to a mk2 without powersteering isn't ideal, but the handling of the two cars is drastically different, the mk2 without powersteering wasn't all that bad to park, but the rado was real heavy on easy simple turns, a three point turn was a work out, at higher speeds it wasn't noticeable. That's with 16x6.5 wheels up front James A friend of mine has a mk2vr from up your neck of the woods, that also dunt have powersteering. It is a bit of effort to manuver incomparison to the mk2vr I had with power steering and my old mk2 valver without, after driving my valver rado without today ied hate to imagine what a vr rado without is like.

Removing the powersteering rack and using a low spec mk3 subframe(no powersteering) would gain me about an inch an half in height and maybe ten across, I should have wrote all my measurements wen I was sat were the engine usually is.

My old mk2 didn't have power steering and even with a 280 steering wheel was fine, parkin was a bit of a ballache but I generally try not to park any were difficult anyways invade some other pratts havin a hard time parkin n dings ya, I do plan to keep my power steering but I'm intreste in syncro, and squeezing an exuast in the tunel with the propshaft is gunna be a tight squeeze, I'm simply tryin to find out as much as possible to help prepare me for the headaches and help with the shoppin list,

Yeh I was also gunna ask what size wheels people had used if they had, I've seen show rados were it's been removed to tidy the bays, but that isn't why i'm intrested, more about gaining alittle extra room at the tunnel entrance

What manifolds do u use? Guessing turbo manifolds arnt as much a problem, I'm more intrested in the na exausts, all custom? is there bulkhead work? I've a 16v and a 4branch just fits as it is, The tunnel has plenty of room for the propshaft, but at the bulk head it's quite a tight squeeze between the powersteering rack gear cables and bulkhead, I plan to start hordeing all the neccesary parts as n wen I find em for sale, a little knowledge of this area might help with the shoppin list. Cheers

Does or has anyone on ere drive or drove there corrado without powersteering? If so how is or was it?

I've seen a few people who have fitted a vr and managed to keep the early wings n bonnet, I imagine they've cut down the mounts (on mk2s u have to cut the rear engine mount down a little to close bonnet) only draw back to cutting down mounts is that your sump is gunna get closer to the floor, vr sumps are already close to the floor in vr rados, bear in mind this is all under the assumption you have a early valver, you might already have the higher bonnet for all I know. Also if u do decide to go for the vr u will have to dint your driver side chassis leg for the pulleys, if u do this dont start swinging the hammer till u put the bumper back on so the chassis leg doesn't bend inwards alittle, dingin the chassis leg seems a little scru at first but it's realy not all that bad,

Mk3 front seats don't simply bolt in, and would sit too high if they ever could, but should sell for a half decent price, all the vr running gear will bolt on and give you a wider track, if u deceide to put the vr in the car it's a relitvly simple swap(mk2vr6.com has walk throughs and rado and mk2s share the same front end) and will give u 170bhp standard if obd1 or 180 I obd2. If u do decide to put the vr in tho you can use the mk3 subframe, but will need a corrado vr radiator, vr bonnet and wings, possible a corrado vr front cross member, the 16v fuel pump you have is fine and your 16v exaust is fine from the vr manifold, so in your case 300 quid gets u a car you can strip and sell body parts and interior and your 16vengine box ecu etc make ya money back and get at least 170bhp(standard) for free and have a little left over for the vr bonnet etc. Do ya have somewere to strip and store a car/parts until it's all sold, rarely Sell over night. that Same 300 would take some good bargin hunting to see you 170hp outta ya 16v. For 500 I recently bought a freshly re-honed 9a (still all stripped) had the head port n polished skimmed an fully reconditioned, bought new shells, gaskets, bolts, filters, belts, plugs, oil, coolant, etc etc. Luckily already got a decent flowing system n had a 4branch and kr cams 50mm inlet, from my old mk2. A trip down stealth 50-100£ and if I'm lucky might see 170. I can sell the 9a already in my car to get alittle back on all this. 300 won't take ya valver too far, a good bit of bargin hunting and u could see it breathing abit better, Club gti has a real good 16v section, tells ya cheap mods aswel as how to go all out, 300 for a mk3 vr is a good deal tho I sold everything needed for a mk2 vr conversion off my mk2 for £600 last month. Now I'm stuck with a mk2 shell. Haha sorry for goin on n on hope it's some help

The bumpers on the later corrrados stick out past the arches,so it was just a matter of matching them up,then i sanded the line on the bumper away so it matches the arches,hope that helps mate. :) That helps loads matey, means I can get a spare set of bumpers an take my time with the work ied like to do to em, rather than workin on the ones on my car, I didn realise quite how many differences there realy is between the early, late and vr cars. Cheers James, although I trust ya car woulda wound up in good hands elsewere I'm glad to see ya decided to keep it and finish it off,

My sunroof has been leakin, and I've swapped my dash. so whilst the cars been stripped. Decided to remove the tired old soggy sound deadening, bagged it up and it came to 15kg, now just lookin for a suitable replacement, good sound proofing/light weight/good price, If ya intrested I'll let ya know how I get on.

Yo James when you pulled the arches what did ya do to make the bumpers match, or did ya let the body shop deal with that, I wanna do the same thing soon, the more I know the less mess I'm gunna make.

From what I've read the abf head is a little differnt to the kr head, Difference in compression from what I remember, there's alot of information about all the head differnces and mixing them up on clubgti forum, it's vest to go by part numbers on the heads because vw mix n matched them alot over the years, personally I would Find an abf block and go 2.0l, you will possibly have to shave the engine mount rubber down alittle cos it's a taller block, my freind ran a stock abf block head n cams on k-jet with all the kr ancillarys and it runs real good, hell of a lot faster than our stock krs were,

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Would I be right assuming the 1.8, 2.0l and vr tanks are all the same and that the fuel pumps are the only difference? And fitting a vr pump would mean everyone with a 1.8/2.0l would be able to scrap the external pump? I know vrs can run on 1.8 an 2.0l pumps fine but would k-jet cars be fine with the extra pressure the vr pump provIdes even tho it is very little

If ya remove ya rear door cards u will find there's a inner skin what isn't in mk2s,can all be cut out if ya not too worried bout the safety of rear passengers or don't plan to have them in, imagine it will reduce stiffness. depending on how anal ya wanna be a can get a holesaw and drill/cut everywere on the car ya see fit, I lost my mind one morning and did loads(all hidden or outta sight) there's nuff stuff ya can remove ya just gotta decide how close to standard ya wanna keep the car, even valver corrados weight a lot more than mk2s gettin the weight down that much isn't too easy without it lookin like a track car. The bonnet alone weighs as much as a mk2 shell.

I got one of these on Friday, some of the mechanism isn't workin too well, I know the glass can be swapped, was curious if mech parts are similar?? So I can make the best of both, sure I'll find out tomorrow.

Bleak mate, good luck with the engine