Erny

I wasn't scared to try it before I read your thread, but after Reading I was super over confident about it, I've found from all the build treads, each one has a differnt story tell,

I love awd corrados, did you realy find doin the syncro conversion as easy as you make it seem?

Corrados a heavy car for the kr, but youed be best to check your staic timing first, this guide is good http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186796 then get your fuel mixture happy This guide helps too http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195423 do ya simply need to advance your distributor? I could be set more to retard, easily to over look, hope this is some help.

The s shaped pipe goes to the pipe below and to the isv, this guide here may be a little help with distingusing weather your isv is fucked. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195423

the blue plug is the fith injector for cold starts, the vacuum from the warm up regulator goes to your isv,

Shame it was failled on the steering rack gaitor seen as you didn't have an engine in the way of it last week,

I've seen vrs in ibizas before, youed be best askin(if u haven't already) on seat forums, go check out www.mk2vr6.com and check out the parts needed and what parts you can mix up. it should give u a good idea, Sorry I can't be more help

Hard to relocate the fuseboard because all the wires are set-up for it being there,

Us spec with the sides cut off, here's a how-to to do the exact opposite, you can see in the first pictures how American ones differ to euro ones http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/MKIII/D ... od_DIY.pdf

There is a tool available to remove them, I simply cut old hacksaw blades with tin snips to make what kinda look like tweasers, they bend outta shape pretty quick tho

good to hear mate, first few weeks of that in the car are gunna be fun, just remember your sumps alittle closer to the ground now haha. have you had any problems closing the bonnet yet? was it fine or did you trim the rear engine mount down alittle?

mine only has one, but like i said both my mk2 and rado are of a similar age, so differences could have occured after, or a previous owner of my corrado could have swapped to mk2 parts for some odd reason. doubt it very much tho seemed to prefer messing with the wireing and addin as many useless electronic add ons possible, i near enuff filled a bin liner with wiring left dormant from sound systems, numerous alarms, door poppers, push button start etc, all done realy slopply, ive still not got all my dash functions running standard or running at all yet, need to get all new dash looms pretty much.haha

as dirtytorque says water pumps a nice and easy swap, make sure u get new rubber gaskets, themostats are pretty cheap too, i dunno if ive simply come across 8v with after market pumps but the ones i have all seem to have terrible impellers compared to 16v, i replaced 8v one with a spare 16v i had sat around when my friend had the exact same problem you are havin, fixed the problem straight away and has been fine since. i dont know weather 16v and 8v pumps share the same part code from what ive seen they should.

i had a quick look at the wiring for for, as david said that shouldnt stop the car from starting as it is only a wire from a sender and krs dont have flywheel position sensors, again as david says i have the what looks like the same wire tucked up doin nothing down by the oil pressusre senders, mine looks like it was zip tied back at he factory. yours in the picture appears to be by the dizzy so when i looked around there there was a slighty similar lookin wire goin to the top right of the 3 water senders by the coolant flange, bear in mind i was lookin in the dark with a mobile phone for light, as for the AA dont tell em its been converted in the future, they would never know any other way. good luck anyways pal hope it works out for ya,

the abf head isnt quite as interchangeable, i cant quite remember the specifics but my friend stumbled across a few problems when he was hopin to fit kr head to his abf block, he settled for the abf head in the end. kr and 9a heads are the same apart from the inlets, krs are slighty larger, as far as standard heads go the kr flows better than the 9a, but after a port and polish they should be the same. 9a engines are better for low down torque due to the smaller inlet tracts and 42mm inlet mani and cams, i noticed a good overall improvement when i had 50mm inlet manifold and 9a inlet cam. but a loss in low down torque wen i added a kr inlet cam to the equation, i do miss the torque, until i fit my 4branch i cant say fairly, but my mk2 with my work tools in the back would av wiped the floor with the empty corrado which i have got the weight down a fair bit. if i was to do a 16v engine swap again i think ied fit an abf on kr management my friends in his mk2 pulls amazing with little modifications, the guys on club gti do swear by 9as tho.

sounds alot like an airleak problem i had in the past, followed every pipe around the bay to find it was the one from the isv sat right right in front of me, haha

ive got one off my old mk2 on my rado,altough both were of a similar age, didnt notice any differences fitting, boiing water on the rubber helps as the power rohr is slighty larger circumference, bonnet closes fine,

did u stick with all the k-jet management and not the abf? ive swapped two 9as on kr management in the last 2 weeks and cant think for the life of me think were that wire goes. ill pop the bonnet on my car later today and have a good look around for it. did u take note of what wires went were or just pop em off and leave it to memory?

abf exaust cam and kr inlet is whats been highly recomended to me, you can also cut the pulley end off kr/9a exaust cams and use them for inlet cams, you have to put a new timing mark on 6 teeth further around, theres alot of info if u google it.

Did you find you had to do much modding to the scuttle cover? I was messing with one of the flimsy full lenght mk2 ones the other week, had to cut all the area above the wiper mech, an the rest didn't seem to fit too well

If your motor isn't broke bolt your motor onto the g60 sunroof, motor plugs differ but the splines fit just the same

New bonnet pop cables are 20-30quid from vw, somthing ridiculous like that anyways, I never felt they worked too well so I removed the handle and cable and set up, to use my own Method altogether using a bike brake cable, I'll never be locked outta my bonnet again, you could also use this alongside the normal cable strictly for emergencys. if ya intrested to know pm me and I'll try and explain it, somethings are best not shared on the Internet.

You can paint as much as u like on valvers but most of it is out of sight due to all the wires and fuel lines n pipes, If ya plan on paintin the block your aswel takin it outta the car, hammerite smooth seems to work for me, 16quid a tin from B&Q just make sure ya get all the grime n oil outta the nooks n crannys.

Bit o force mate, unlike vr ht leads valver ones are pretty strong and easier to get a good pull on

Kr cams tend to have bigger sharper teeth on the sprokets, inlet cam is the one you want cause the exaust ones measure are the same, Abf exaust cams are a good swap for kr/9a exaust cams. wouldn't hurt to change the chain whist ya at it there quite cheap, get the timing marks all lined up before u start to make thing easier, inlet off, cam cover off, make sure u put all the cam holders back on in the same place they came from, and lube em up as you go, timings real easy, there's good guides on line, defo in the 16v section on club gti, cam belt is a pain to change whilst the engines in the car, some of the cover fastenings are difficult to get to, and the crank pulley has to come off to get the bottom cover off, you can cut the cam pulley end off kr/9a exaust cams and use them as inlet cams they have a higher lift, but u will have to make your own timing mark (again there's guides online, would advise u do your research before doin this) the smaller 42 mm inlet mani should be better for low down torque but I've personally found that the 50mm one was better all round, the kr inlet cam change is noticeably different but not massively differnt. If ya wanna get into messing with heads, standard kr heads flow better than standard 9a heads.