fendervg

It's supposed to do that I think. Should come on and then go off when ignition is switched on, and will do it again when starting. Is it just on during cranking?

The panel itself is only held on by four screws, two each side. It's unlikely the mechanism broke by removing it as you would simply put the roof into tilt position and undo. It might just have been about to go anyway. Be very careful with the replacement - I've seen them go straight away, so it's best to make sure everything works before going to all the trouble of the labour required to fit it. Often the second hand ones have been left sitting around for so long that the first time you try to retract them the left hand slider/cable stop snaps - which is most likely what has happened to yours, as well as the little wheel breaking. I'd recommend putting it on a bench, removing the panel and then giving everything a really good clean and lube, and then wind the motor manually with an allen key to ensure everything works as it should. If you feel the slightest bit of resistance when retracting the panel, stop immediately and check everything again.

Check for any vacuum leaks on the inlet elbow and manifold, and the PCV tubing.

I think the consensus is that "performance" panel and cone filters do absolutely nothing except give more noise, if that is your thing. For me the jury is still out on the BMC CDA, some claim a proven increase in power and response, some not. I don't think the kind of gains they might give are reliably measurable, unless under extremely controlled conditions. The BMC is not cheap either. OEM airbox and paper filter elements are a good compromise unless running forced induction etc, and even then if you look at fancy factory FI setups, they still mostly use bog standard airboxes and filters.

Hopefully they should be ok - I have 288s under the standard Speedlines and they fit fine without a problem - and these wheels are of a Mk3 VR6, and they came with the 288s, but I'll do a trial run before I go any further.

Thanks for the reply Roger - I will give this a try - I suspect I might not be getting full servo assist, or possibly have a weeping seal in the master cylinder, so this will help with my investigations.

Best of luck - it's a tricky job but can be done. Just be aware that the B3\B$ and A3 roofs use exactly the same mechanism that breaks exactly the same way - so it's not really a case that you are replacing the Corrado one with a "better" part - but it's possible to cobble together a working one from parts. Regular maintenance and lubrication is the key for long life sunroofs. VAG do't seem to yse Rockwell as a sunroof manufacturer any more - I wonder why...

Ah, no worries - didn't see them at the time. Would definitely have been interested in them had I seen them.

Now he tells us [emoji41]

Cheers - I managed to find a relatively decent set with the all important ever elusive centre caps included - they'll be going for a full refurb soonish, payday permitting! Will post photos once they're on, and then the Speedlines can go for a spot of well-deserved R&R for a while.

Great idea and a neat solution. Also look out for the rear slider bracket near the door lock end that is supposed to be glued to the glass, but is often not, and will just rattle around against the rail and the innards of the door.

Thanks easypops - the framses are all more or less the same between the Corrado, Mk3 Golf (A3) and Passat B3/B4, and the mounting ho;les will all line up. The Golf roof panel curves slightly too much, so doesn't fit or look right - some use some washers to space it, but it still looks off. The Passat moonroof panel sits perfectly. All made by Rockwell International - but now most VAG sunroofs are made by Webasto - go figure! I've had all 3 types apart at one time or another (all broken the same way, rear left cable guide failure) and I can't see any difference between the slider parts and mechanisms at all - the only things that appear different is that the solid roofs have a lifter on each side for the internal panel that moves up with the roof in tilt position, and the moonroof versions have some stop buffers on the slide rails for the internal slideing panel. The thing that kills them all is lack of lubrication and use - I'd say maybe only dealers ever followed the service check list and did it, if at all, and then any car that was serviced independently or left sitting for a while will have suffered. I've a working standard roof in my car at the moment, but would like to go the glass route for more light in the cabin and because I think it will look well with the grey paint.

Cheers Kev - all those mechs seem to be the same - complete POS. A3 and B3/B4 ones use exactly the same mechanism and cable guides. I have a few bits and pieces together and will see if I can make up a working hybrid unit from them.

Only option is to buy one or more second hand roof units in the hope they work or try making one working one from the parts.

A feel a change of shoes might be in the offing...... ;)

Good find - I think they may be from the Bentley though (correction, it is a straight scan of the Bentley wiring diagrams, I've just checked my copy and the page numbers) - I don't see any mention of a brake pedal position sensor, which was a part specific to the system fitted to UK RHD VR6s. These are for a US car.

Agreed. But somehow I get the feeling that Classic Parts are more in the business of selling off NOS that they get back from dealers and warehouses rather than make new parts. There a a number of essential and safety critical components that are long NLA with no sign of them appearing again. They have remade the roof gutters and some small bits and bobs. I know it's a big ask for limited numbers and in many cases the moulds and tooling are gone, but we should at least have everything needed for a respray, all lights, front end crash repair and brake/clutch masters available. /endrant

If the rear wheels are off the ground while you are testing, then the valve is fully closed. You need to clamp it open to give the effect of the car being on the ground and as said above, also hold it open while bleeding. If the ABS is faulty, you will still have full mechanical braking - you can test this by fooling it into fault mode by disconnecting a sensor. Did you bleed the master cylinder and the ABS pump unit after doing all the callipers? Also check your rear solid and flexi brake lines for tight connections and leaks. It might also be worth trying another brake proportioning valve to rule that out - the hardest part with those is getting the old one off, and you've gotten past that hurdle.

Afraid not, the only VR wiring diagrams are in German for a 93 car. The UK English versions have so far proven elusive - there used to be someone on here who had a stash of the dealer micro fiches and manuals, but I don't think they ever got around to scanning them all. PM me with you email address and I'll send on what I have. Did you scan the system with VCDS for fault codes at all? That kind of intermittent error with the light coming on randomly was exactly what I had, and the only thing that fixed it permanently was a new pump unit - there is a PCB and loom connector mounted to the bottom of it and this tends to get dirty, corroded and heat damaged because of its location and can lead to intermittent or temp related faults.

. Bosch part# 0986237642 VAG part# 0237520052

Ok. Have you got the part number? I think I have a thread on here with all the details if you search. On mine the plastic housing had broken off and I was getting running and starting problems, especially when hot. You could try your nearest actual Bosch distributor with the part number or see if they can refurb or exchange your old unit.

I got a new Bosch distributor on German eBay a while back - around 300 euro. I also have my old one here but it's no use to you as the hall sender is dodgy and they are not available separately.

At least it's sorted now. Roger, how did you identify the vacuum leak and which hose was it?

Poly will be easy to fit, the OE ones need a press or special tool. However, most would not recommend poly bushes on the back as they make it too stiff and allow for too little movement. The rear axle was designed to flex a bit. I've fitted OE rubber on mine again at 90k and expect they will last at least that again.

Are you sure you have the UK specific wiring diagrams? Most of the ones out there are for German or US cars. The Bentley will definitely be US only and the UK cars had an ABS system that was specific to RHD. What is the symptom you are trying to fix? I'd say it's highly unlikely that someone will have rewired the unit, and unless they've been water damaged they rarely go wrong - most ABS problems are caused by faults elsewhere along the chain, most often the hydraulic pump unit. I'll check the serials on mine and let you know what they are.