fendervg

Just checked with VW here, deleted without replacement. But sometimes there will be some new old stock hanging around the dealer network. The hunt is on.....

What can happen with the slave is that the protective boot around the actuating rod can split, which means it will weep around the internal piston seal very slightly and into the bell housing. This can cause the clutch symptoms above and a very gradual loss of fluid without leaking out on to the ground completely.

Ah ok. Might be worth trying VAG or TPS. I have a few sources in Germane I can try as well and will let you know how I get on. Did you ask Heritage?

Did you try adjusting it?

Looking for one myself - the only one available seems to be https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/dashpot/034133283/, but some price - and a couple of second hand ones on German fleabay. It was also an Audi part, so might be worth checking a breakers, or some breaking parts cars on here might be able to help. I'm looking for a new one though - presume you are as well.

If you are having problems with a leaking slave and replace it, you will inevitably end up doing the master a few months later as the increased pressure will cause the seals on that to fail, so no harm done by having one handy. I've ended up usually replacing both at the same time to be sure.

The light should come on for the ABS self-test when the ignition comes on, and the go out, regardless of the engine cranking or not. Then it should stay off unless it detects a fault. It won't come on when ABS is engaged for example like on some newer systems. You will need an OBD diagnostics cable (usually purple plug) and a 2 x 2 adapter for the early cars, and some software such as VAG.com or VCDS. Take a look at the Ross-Tech site, they sell all the cables as well.

That's what I used in the end. On closer inspection the foam on the flaps was soaked through and when I tried to use a hair dryer to dry it out it just crumbled to pieces. I split the air box and recovered all three - all assembled and lubricated now, ready to be refitted tomorrow:

I'd say pay about £50-100 depending on condition. The real problem is that the cables and the mechanism seize and break due to lack of maintenance, and you may find that a replacement is in just the same poor condition as the one you are replacing. The repair kits are the best option, but very hard to come by.

@dox - yeah, I'm going to check the mechanism and flaps very carefully and lubricate it all and make sure it moves freely. To be honest, the foam inside looks to be in very good condition - I'm having trouble sourcing some replacement adhesive backed foam, have only found felt so far.

Cheers - not quite done yet unfortunately. I'm waiting for some replacement studs to arrive and also drying out the heater box - a nice puddle of coolant had collected in there - but the fan housing and vent were bone dry. I'd say it cracked when it overheated after my top rad hose split there recently - after that there was the tell-tale smell of coolant and a little bit of misting on the windscreen, so only a matter of time before it went completely.

After a bit of research and finding GS Bellew's write up on the Irish vagdrivers site, I decided to try it with the dash in - although in fairness it's probably only another hour's worth of labour to take the whole dash out and you would have much more access. The hardest part is getting the glove box out - it's a real pain, and once out the reason is obvious (now modified with a dremel to remove that nasty ridge on the bottom) and then I ran into trouble as one of the shouldered hex studs that secure the matrix to the bulkhead had seized - I eventually just unscrewed it on the matrix side and will hopefully get it out with a second pair of hands and a socket/spanner on each side. I also left the heater controls connected and took them out with the air distribution unit in one piece - this was easier with the centre console trim removed - there's a couple of fiddly screws in the air vents and by the ABS switch that practically vertical with very little access, but a small ratchet handle with a Phillips head bit worked a treat on them. It looks like the old matrix had already been replaced by VW at some stage - the two screws holding it in were missing and it's not like VW to forget them in the factory.

The dreaded heater matrix replacement in progress....

Just be aware that the a lot of the holes will now be bigger than they were, so using original size screws may not hold things well enough, so might be worth getting slightly larger ones. Chances are you will also be missing a lot of the metal speed nut/clips, as these tend to go AWOL quite easily.

And check the FPR

Just make sure it's a 4 bar one for the 2.9 ABV engine, not the 3 bar for the 2.8 AAA. You might have some issues with the housing and the fuel level sender as well, depending on the replacement. More info towards the end of this thread (red it from the end backwards!): http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91938-VR6-ABV-crank-position-sensor-question-now-fuel-pressure-issue&highlight=fuel

Ok - thanks - I'll put a list together and send you a mail. Thanks.

Hi Anna - I'd be interested in ordering a set of these - also need a couple of other bits, so could combine shipping. Is the windscreen kit on the web site yet? Cheers, Chris

45 - owned my VR6 since 2009

Yes, VAG.COM will work fine - I use it all the time on my 93 VR6. All Corrados were OBD1 from the factory. Compared to a modern car you will only be able to interrogate the engine ECU and the ABS system, so quite limited. For the earlier cars you will also need a 2x2 adapter cable as they were not fitted with a standard OBD socket.

You just need a 2x2 adapter cable for the diagnostics, that then plugs into the OBD cable back to the laptop.

Don't use brieze blocks please - they tend to crumble.

They don't cost a lot from VW for an OE quality one - also try Ford dealers as the VR6 was also fitted to the Galaxy.

I've just recently replaced my clutch slave to fix a sticking clutch issue (the rubber boot on the old one had completely perished and torn and fluid was seeping past the piston seal) and I now want replace the master cylinder as I know from experience that this is likely to go soon. After much searching I was able to locate a new master, part#358721388, which was listed as the correct part for my chassis number, but on closer examination, I seem to have the older type of cylinder, not 358721401, which is the longer older type, but probably 358721401B, which is shorter but still has the hook type attachment to the pedal rather than the later white plastic clip. After doing some searching here, I found out that I can use the later one if I replace the clutch pedal, using these parts: Clutch pedal 3A2721315 Mounting clip 1HO721357 (this clip is already on the new master cylinder, so won't need to order this) Guide 191721421 (what does this part do, and where does it go?) Is swapping over the pedal an easy job and is there anything to watch out for? Cheers.

I have one of the Gruvenparts pipes - you'll need to get the mating surfaces and the hole in the block where the pipe fits really clean and smooth before putting it all back together. The drain hole is an allen key screw - quite hard to access though. The OE pipe has a drain plug in the same place as well. There is some debate over whether an alloy pipe really makes much of a difference over the OE plastic, as you don't get to see it and the originals seem to last well over 100K before failure.