oneohtwo

Yeah, I've got some chord to the release mech through behind the grill so I can release the bonnet ok and that works, so I am not completely stuck thankfully. But yes, unfortunately I didn't have the trumpet located properly, there was still a bit of slack in the cable so it only opens one side. If I want the proper cable release to work I'll have to replace it. Only way I can think of is to very carefully drill out the grub nut. Looks like it would be an absolute pain though! VW Heritage do stainless trumpets I believe, looked at them when I bought the cable but thought changing them as well was unnecessary! Edit: Just seen you were looking for these as well recently, and they are still out of stock on VW Heritage. Did you ever find any others? Spoonfedtuning do them but for such a small part it seems extravagant to ship from the US...

Well, fitted a new bonnet release cable (and only after my emergency release cord snapped, so back under the car!) and just as I was tightening up the trumpet grip bolt head shears off! if it isn't one thing... I really should have got a new one at the same time, but thought it would be fine. I am now unsure whether it's set up ok to open the bonnet, or how I am going to remove the trumpet to fit a new one... Grrr. Very frustrating. Have had to leave the bonnet open whilst I rig up another temporary opening system. Anyone any ideas on how to remove the trumpet without destroying the cable?!

Thanks, in a way it is reassuring to know those pipes go first! My old radiator was a bit poor and it used to run quite hot for a while so that may have contributed to it. Sounds like it should be an easy fix then. Will have to see what hoses are available. Half tempted to drive home as it's not far and such a small leak... but probably a bit too much of a risk. Best not to mess with the cooling.

Seem to have developed a small coolant leak which appears to be coming from the upper coolant pipe that runs into the back of the engine block. Noticed a very minor bit of steam, barely even noticeable traced it to the back of the engine bay and the casing was very wet. Initially worried that the head gasket might be leaking, but then noticed the pipe above was wet and could see where it had run down so don't think it is that bad. Coolant levels were normal when I pulled over. You can see the green spring clip around the pipe is wet. Any one have any idea why it might be leaking here? I guess the pipe is just old rubber and no longer seals well. Is there anything else it might be? Seems like it should be easy enough to fit a new pipe to fix? Unfortunately I am away from home so going to have to get it towed though! :(

Thanks, I'll look him up.

Got it open in the end with a helpful assistant (gf) as suggested, so thanks for the advice! Required reaching up with a screwdriver to lever the release by the trumpet whilst they pushed down. Have now strapped a chord around it and fed past the radiator so have a temporary emergency release until I sort a new cable.

Second the hella rad. Have a look in my member thread for how it compares to cheaper ones. Much better quality!

I've done a couple of bits on mine using this colour matched paint: https://www.refinishsystems.com/products/aerosols/mixed-colours/colour-match-aerosols Which wasn't a bad match and had a pretty good finish. Cans also have a decent nozzle which provides a narrow, long spray that you have a bit more control over. Blending is going to be the trickiest bit and I didn't get it quite right... I was have metallic so I don't know if that made a difference, but I ended up with a slight "halo" effect right at the edge of the paint. I'm not exactly sure where I went wrong, all I can assume was that it was part using rattle cans so there was fine overspray outside the area I was spraying. It might be different with a solid colour, but I can't really offer any tips on blending other than practice! Other things... obviously don't mask off any areas of paint as you'll get an edge. Rub down a good surrounding area to remove clear coat for blending. Flatten your primer but I wouldn't flatter the colour coat, this is especially true with metallic colours as you start to pull out the metal flakes and end up with different shades. Solid colour might be ok, but I am still not sure I'd advise it. Clear coat can be applied soon after the colour coat. Also, make sure you get primer and clear coat from the same system. I've made the mistake of lacquer reacting with the paint before!

Ah, no didn't have a willing helper, but sounds like it could help, thanks! I guess I'd still have to be trying to reach it from underneath as on that side the cable is free to pull through the connector and only works when there is resistance at the other end. I guess ultimately I could get the bumper off, might help access.

Right, had the bonnet release cable snap at the clip that holds it into the release handle and unfortunately the cable has disappeared up the tube which is a massive pain in the a**e! I've got the passenger (nearside) clip open easily enough - you can just pull the black tube back to reveal the cable and with a pair of pliers jobs a good'un. But the drivers (offside) has me stumped as you can't pull the cable. I've read threads and the wiki which says the offside is the easy one! And can be got at by jacking up and reaching up behind the cross member. In fairness, it's not wrong - you can reach it, just not in any meaningful way surely? I've spent a good hour with my arm jammed up behind the rad groping at the metal spring with my fingertips, but it's too far to get any sort of grip on. I've also got a screwdriver up behind the spring to try and lever it but it won't budge. I've got reasonable slim arms as well! What am I missing? Anyone got any suggestions?

Have you tried the dealer at all? I got a passenger one from them not so long ago, maybe a year or so, so they may still be available.

Haha, no I meant a little bit more than standard! 380 seems massive...

Good to hear it! Nice to know the old things can handle that much power. I'd like a little bit more I think but 380 sounds quite a lot! Can you salvage much from the old block?

Sadly not, it was at night and was a busy section of dual carriageway. When I got a chance to pull over they didn't, and I didn't get the number. Yeah, you might be right. It feels ok, and it was a relatively small coming together thankfully. They just drifted across and I managed to take some evasive action, plus as we were going in the same direction at roughly the same speed. Such a pain though! Just another thing to sort...

So this is what happens when someone doesn't check their blind spot and just pulls out on you on the dual carriageway: Could have been a lot worse I guess, but means the wing needs respraying. The stuff on the wheel I think is just rubber from their wheel, or black plastic from some trim. It seems to come off a bit when scratched and the wheel underneath seems fine so that's something. Have tried the usual car shampoos but can't really get it off. Anyone have any ideas?

Ouch! Was looking forward to seeing how the turbo worked out on this, terrible luck. I think I might have jacked it all in if that happened, good job you had the spare... Glad to hear the turbo was worth it though and you'll be back on the road. How does it cope on the corners with the extra oomph?

Don't know if you had another after, but I definitely bought it May 2010! Couldn't believe it was as much as seven years when I realised the other day... sobering. It's here if you fancy having a look anyway, still going strong: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?49765-oneohtwo-s-VR6-New-Wheels!&p=1163738#post1163738 Can't help you out with Bath I'm afraid, London based these days... Definitely think they're worth it though!

Bonus picture of the car looking shiny:

Just updating a bit. Sorted out the leather last summer: Was horrible worn and scuffed, not to mention dirty. Was really letting the care down. Got to work on it with the liquid leather cleaners and dye. Worked brilliantly, happily recommend that stuff:

I think that could well be mine! Was just thinking hold on, I bought mine about 7 years ago from a chap in Cornwall with a similar name... Anyway, still got it 7 years later. It's served me well... few bumps and scrapes along the way but is still pretty solid. I've got a thread on here if you fancy having a look, although I have to admit I'm not very good at keeping it updated.

Cheers matey! It's an odd colour I find... looks fairly dull and uninteresting when it's overcast and shows the dust easily, but as soon as it's wet or the sun comes out it comes to life.

Thanks! Nothing worse than faded plastics for spoiling the look, don't think I'll go gloss for the front grill though. Was Oval Garage, just around the corner from, er... The Oval. Seemed alright, quite a small outfit but were recommended by the vinyl wrapper. Were enthusiastic and turned it around quickly, not sure how they'd do with body panels. I've also been to a place over Charlton way to repair the sill. They didn't get the curves quite right it's quite a tricky shape and I don't think they looked at the other side and just did it by eye, which is a little annoying, but the paint finish was very good.

So 2 paintshops, 1 vinyl wrapper and countless rattle cans later I have final refitted my number plate plinth 1 year after first removing it. Has been the absolute bane of my, and the poor chap who tried to vinyl wrap it a good 4 times without success, life for the last year. I took it off to repair a crack that's been there since I bought the car thinking it would be a fairly minor thing to repair it, spray it gloss black and get it back on. Nope. One thing after another...first repair didn't take. Second repair fine then dropped and broke it whilst trying to finish it; another repair, primer, flatten it back down, prime it, get the primer nice and smooth and paint again; some weird defect appears when finishing; flatten, prime and paint again, another defect; flatten, prime paint again; defect; flatten prime paint; repair starts showing through for the first time; flatten prime paint, flatten prime paintARGGGGGG. Get fed up, take it to a bodyshop. First effort is woeful, dust and weird white flecks in paint. Get them to do it again, still bad (By the way don't use Bodyworkz in Camberwell). Try vinyl wrapping it. Bloke does it 4 times, each time it lifts and he can't understand it. Finally take it to second bodyshop... and relieeeeef. It wasn't absolutely perfect, and the finish I should have been able to get myself, but smartens the back up so fairly happy. By the time I had gone through that I could have just bought a new carbon one so... Oh and I broke off the final prong putting it back just to round off the whole experience.

Afternoon chaps, after quick second opinion for next oil change. I've been using Mobil 1 10w-60 for a while now and car seems generally happy with it but always seeking ways of improving, and seen one or two recommendations of either Motul X-cess 8100 5W-40 or Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10W-50. The engine does get through the Mobil 1 10W-60, the mileage is 175k, so I think the Motul may be too thin, likewise the Synta 10W-40. But the Fuchs might be an interesting option. There's an element of if it ain't broke, but any thoughts would be much appreciated?

It's often recommended that you support the engine when taking the bumper off as the cross member is just held by the two bolts inbetween the bumper bolts - they look a bit small in comparison to the bumper ones but they're only in tension so my feeling is it's fine without and you'd think VW would design them to hold it... but you never know so I usually prop something under the sump. If you're removing the cross member as well, then yeah, engine needs supporting. If you just want to clean the rust up on the cross member a bit I'd probably do that in-situ. The central vertical bit that is dented is part of the slam panel and comes off easily as Fla says. I am not sure about unplugging the power steering pipe as I've never had to do this when removing the slam panel and it sounds extra hassle - unless Fla meant if you take the cross member off as well.