oneohtwo

The obvious is the crack pipe I guess! Although searching for the Gruven one did turn up this place which seems to import some US stuff from ECS and Black Forest: https://psituning.com/black-forest-vr6-12v-crack-pipe.html https://psituning.com/vw-parts/vw-corrado/engine-114667498/ecs-billet-water-pipe-silver-12v-vr6.html Not heard of Black Forest before but looks decent. Quite pricy though, so if they were produced over here could be cheaper? Some nice looking stuff on the Creation Motorsport site though, the silicon hoses are a nice price: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-2-8-VR6-7-PIECE-SILICONE-RADIATOR-COOLANT-HOSE-KIT-H0169/253599825517?hash=item3b0bba3e6d:m:mEQbwSULStx2EVbcu51yDoA They've been mentioned on here before I see, and consensus was the quality was decent. (edit: actually looking again it was the Roose hoses that everyone loved, only one person tried them and they didn't fit so sent them back by the looks of things. Might be because they are for the 2.8 as well.) Tempted by the fuel lines as well - need some replacements as mine have gone a bit perished at the end and haven't got around to looking, so that could solve that easily: https://creationsmotorsport.com/stainless-steel-braided-an-flex-hose-for-oil-fuel-hose-line-price-per-meter.html

Had a good weekend where I managed some genuine progress on the engine! Finally got the cylinder head back on, cams installed and the chains on: Getting the top chain on is a right pain in the arse. You have to leave the guide off, make sure the tensioner is in first, and leave the intermediate sprocket off until you've got the chain on - took me 3 or 4 goes to figure this out! First time forgot the tensioner, and you can't get it on because the gasket is in the way. Then if you put the tensioner in place you can't get the chains on without taking off the intermediate sprocket! You'd think they could have left a bit more room around the gasket... Something special to go in: And in: Also found the cam tool sold on Heritage isn't right... it's far too thin for the slot on the cams so it doesn't lock them in place, which is frustrating. Got them aligned with a feeler gauge to make sure they were in the right place, but they're not fixed so you have to keep checking they've not moved when you're messing with the chains. Anyway, ,hopefully onwards and upwards from here!

Yeah, tried the dealer but obsolete apparently. I've got the part number as above (I think 1H0-199-262/D appears also to be correct, rather than /K, not sure what the difference is) which turned up Topran/JP mostly, plus the Ruville and Mapco. Done a bit more digging and I think this is full list of parts manufacturers for the mount: http://www.kakapart.com/oem/partscrossinterchange/vw-1h0199262k.html Probably wouldn't use that site for anything else, but seems useful for getting a list of part numbers and manufacturers. The "known" names on the list of Febi and Lemforder don't seem to produce them any more (searched the part nos. and checked Lemforder's online catalogue). Few available here: https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1h0199262d-oen Again, not heard of most of them. Corteco appear to be American (pricey on there!) Metzger and Optimal are German. Optimal seems to be a mix of German and cheap parts, no idea on Metzger. Ruville are part of the Schaeffler Group who also own LuK and INA so I think they're probably reputable, and I may just give them a go. Vibra is an idea as I've got the front as, but ideally didn't want to spend that much!

I do: 1H0-199-262/K. Had a search on ebay which only turned up Mapco (and JP/Topran). Autodoc only has Ruville - it's odd, plenty of manufacturers do the left rear gearbox mount, like febi, Meyle, plus loads I've never heard of (Ridex, Fortune Line, Maxgear etc... ) but the right rear is nowhere to be found. I guess the left rear must have compatibility with more models, and the right rear was just the Corrado. AVS often turn up rare parts, but only have JP, you may have more luck than me though!

Yep, I was being thick... ! The top plate holds the spring on when they come off. Only after I went out and bought the two pronged ones did I realise this; the Clark ones would have been fine all along!

I'm sending a few parts back to Heritage, including the Topran right rear mount. Have been sourcing replacements, but other than Topran and JP only Ruville and Mapco appear to be available. Both German, and I believe both do OEM parts for various manufacturers so should be decent quality, but wondered if anyone had any experience of either? OEM are obsolete.

Oh absolutely! Thought people might be interested to see how they differed visually, in case they were in a similar situation. Bit of info to add to the forum resource!

All fixed down now, but this is what it looked like in the end: So hardly anything out. Anyway, took a picture of the Elring gasket compared to the JP Group one, just for reference: Hard to see any difference between them with the JP in the package, but the flame rings on the Elring appear wider, and the fibre patterning is more pronounced on the JP. The JP didn't look bad quality just on a visual inspection, but I guess hard to know what the materials are like. The Elring exhaust gasket on the left appears to have a zinc finish on it, whereas the JP doesn't so clear difference in material there. Also has a sharper bend in it. Can't really draw many conclusions from that, but thought it may be of interest.

Is it just a replacement for the stock heat shield, but rather nicer? It's quite tempting at that price...

Took the head back off and it does look a bit better. Just the rings at 1 and 6 are slightly out, but by 1-2mm. It's just the outside edge as well, so will probably stick with it. Still a bit odd... Will try and post pictures tomorrow.

Yes, you are correct - it's the rubber cam cover gasket that's the different part. I bought the kit from Murrays and checked with Vince before I bought and he confirmed there was no change in the head gasket, just the cam cover which is apparently plastic on the very late ones. Also checked with Murrays as well, and he said the same. Cheers for looking into it though, appreciate the assistance. Don't know if it's worth advising people to swerve the Elring gaskets for the time being... Anyway, will see what's what today. Vince seemed unconcerned with the one he had that didn't fit well - he put it all on and said it was running fine, so if it's good enough for Vince!

Didn't get a chance to get down to the garage today, so will have a look tomorrow. Agree it does seem a bit odd... why after years of producing decent gaskets would they suddenly get the size wrong. I'll see how it looks after I take the head back off and make a decision I think.

Spoke to Vince, and he said he had the exact same issue with an Elring gasket the other day. He said it hadn't caused him any issues, he'd just forced it on, and pushed it down when it popped up, so it sounds like might be a bad batch. He didn't seem to have the rings out of alignment though, but didn't think it was an issue as long as it didn't overhang the bore - feels a bit odd having the slight gap at the top though. His suggestion was to install the head and nip the old bolts up, leave it overnight then see if it has sorted itself out, so will give that a go.

Thanks, will check the part numbers in the morning. The listing was definitely for the 2.9, and as you say the 2.8 is the same block. The guides are brand new and checked they were seated correctly, plus the old gasket slipped on fine, so I think they are ok. Unfortunately did it too late in the day so just missed Vince when I tried to give him a call! Will have to try again on Monday.

Yeah, but was reluctant to get it out of the pack as Heritage said I can return it, and it wasn't cheap. The old gasket (Victor Reinz) slips straight on. Seems odd as it's more that it's slightly too long than distorted... Can't understand how that would happen. Pretty annoyed because went for the Elring for quality!

Right, if it's not one thing, it's another. Came to fit the head gasket today and the Elring one I bought doesn't fit... It doesn't fully align with the guides, so if you push it on it doesn't lay flat, just bows upwards. I'm guessing this isn't normal, right? Furthermore the flame rings are all slightly out from cylinder 1 onwards... so by the time you get to cylinder 6 there's a big gap. I thought about just shaving a bit off the guide hole to get it to fit, but then the cylinder rings still overlap. This isn't just me and it's supposed to be like this and somehow shrinks to fit eventually right?!

Yeah, you're right it's not a bad shout and I might have gone with it if I'd known earlier but I think I'll stick with standard - I've got the parts now and I understand the metal gaskets are less forgiving of areas of pitting of which I have plenty. I did talk through the head gaskets with Vince at Stealth and he didn't mention avoiding the old mk 3 gasket, so hopefully they can't be too horrendous

Great find there, I was struggling to get hold of the dowel sleeves for the engine block but they came up trumps. Think I'll definitely be using them more often in future, even after the lockdown - as you say my local dealer also doesn't post so you need to take a day off just to pick up parts!

No, just sticking with the original fibre one. Never really considered it to be honest - only recently discovered it was an option!

Right, given it some more thought and cleaning and got things nice and flat. Will put a thin smear of well seal in the pitted areas, but they are self contained and shouldn't be an issue. I will have to live with the odd marks on the bore, and they should be mostly above the piston ring travel anyway. Next thing I've discovered, I am missing the little insets into the bolt holes for locating the gasket and cylinder head - anyone know where these can be obtained?! Part No. is N90502601 but can only seem to find it from US stores, and one on ebay from Latvia but could do with somewhere that's going to be easier to deliver...

Gave that a go, but unfortunately the hooks are just too big to fit at the back and sides of the strut well. they fit at the front corners, but that leaves you without the third. Did grab a pair of the Hilka type from screwfix so will give them ago.

Old thread, but a bit of info to add: The Clark 3 rod spring compressors (also Teng Tools look identical) like these: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht224-3piece-coil-spring-compressor/ Don't work on the Corrado, as there's no clearance for the heads in the well around the top of the strut, and the bar is also too long. It hits the top of the well before the bottom hook is engaged. I went for these as I thought they looked a bit more substantial than the Laser/Hilka ones above, like the locking mechanism and felt having three bars was a bit more stable and safer than just the two bars.... but half an hour wrestling with them and they definitely don't fit so best to avoid. Guess I'll have to go with the type above. frustrating day!

I'm just coming up to installing the new head gasket and refreshed cylinder head, but … obvious question: how clean does the engine block face have to be? I've scraped off as much as I can of the remaining gunk that was still stuck on after getting back from Stealth, and wiped down a few times with brake cleaner but a few areas look kinda rough/pitted: There's obviously no way I can get it skimmed now or anything like that, but is that clean enough? I know it is just around the cooling jacket areas, so pretty well contained (and there are areas of pitting left on the head after skimming, from previous damage) but a second opinion would be handy as it's a critical item. All the youtube vids seem to be dealing with nice, shiny, freshly skimmed blocks! Also noticed inside the bores these marks have appeared: Any ideas? The cylinders were rebored and rehoned with Stealth, and fairly sure they weren't there before. All I can think of is tiny rust marks, but I've kept the bores oiled up and under cover so would be a bit gutted if that was the case. Obviously nothing I can do about it now though, so ah well.

Yeah, it takes bloody ages! The painting is the easiest bit... I spread the cleaning over several months, doing a bit at a time and slowly chipping away at it, because it's bloody tedious and wasn't on the critical path. I used a combo of: Dodo Juice Crudzilla Auto Finesse Eradicate Bilt Hamber Deox Gel (for rust removal) White Spirit Fibre Glass mould cleaner The last two were for removing the last residues of the wax mostly. I really like the Auto Finesse cleaner actually, has done a good job on a lot of other things. Used the Auto Finesse Caramics kit for a bit of added protection once I had finished. Also raided the gfs stock of wooden nail sticks, as they were perfect for chipping bits of hardened wax off without damaging anything under! Those would be my tips!

Ah, good news! Sent a few of the forum threads over and the guy has found someone at Eibach who knows about the problem and should be sending replacement springs next week. The guy at Extreme Carstyling has been extremely helpful, didn't argue in the first instance, got straight on to Eibach, always responded quickly and has pursued them for an answer. Would be happy to recommend them. Was a very good price on the B12s as well...