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oneohtwo

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Everything posted by oneohtwo

  1. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Oh you're absolutely right. Felt good to sort the throttle cable, felt so much better I am quite excited to drive it again. Recommend everyone doing this, it's such an easy 5 min job to fairly transform the car.
  2. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    If anyone is still following this saga it may have resolved itself... All a bit odd. Will keep monitoring it. I did find the throttle cable was a bit slack, and I have always thought the pedal was a bit unresponsive, so I tightened that up. Surprisingly easy job, there's just a clip that holds the cable in place, don't even need any tools. That's improved things markedly and made low speed running a lot better, just picks up straight away now. So that could have been part of the issue. I also think the rest of the odd running at low speed is down to the dashpot being knackered. At low throttle it hardly offers any damping and is slow to react, so the throttle is just snapping shut.
  3. Do you get any vibration if you turn the steering wheel to the right when stationary? That would rule out power steering issues I'd have thought, if you didn't.
  4. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    One thing I have just noticed is that the RPMs on the measured blocks on VCDS don't match the tach in the instrument panel. I don't imagine the tach in the instrument panel is that accurate, but they were significantly different: VCDS Tach 800 ~600 (idle) 1160 ~1000 1600 ~1500 2080 ~2000 Then came off the throttle and idled again and had the following: 720/680 ~500 VCDS was constantly flicking between 720/680. Could this mean there is a faulty sensor somewhere so the ecu is not getting an accurate engine speed, or would this be a normal tolerance? It does converge as the revs increase, which is where everything is smoother but I have noticed it sometimes will be quite jerky at low speeds low revs in 2st or 2nd gear. The revs issue also only occurs on the initial cold start where the idle is higher. Once the idle has settled down to ~600 it seems to run fine. I pulled away straight away and was basically bouncing down the road!
  5. Think you might be right about the garage! I think I will see if I can get one of those mobile dent repairers to do the dents form now, or maybe a repair shop, and then try to fix the scrapes myself. At least then the package will look presentable and can then get a good respray further down the line.
  6. Ah so the vapour evaporates as the engine heats up, escapes through the PVC and takes some oil with it? Anyway, more tails of woe to add to the ABS and odd running issue. Some lovely person did this the other day: Typically didn't leave a note with any details. Really hacked off. It's properly bashed the wheel arch in, including the crease line so that's not an easy repair. Also that finally rounds off every corner of the car having a scrape or dent, to add to the car park knocks along the side from various people. Haven't decided what to do with it yet. I have been building up to hopefully getting a respray to sort all these issues so I could just leave it for now and hope that comes together, although will add to the expense, but part of me thinks what if this happens 2 weeks after getting it resprayed?! You'd be devastated. But also I don't want to leave it as is, because it ruins the car. And the Corrado seems to attract them... the other cars on the street are all largely scrape/dent free. How do they manage to pick out mine?! It's smaller than most! All in all not a good few weeks for the Corrado.
  7. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    And then some! Something still isn't quite right with the engine, and I am a bit stumped. Still idles OK but when, after first starting from cold, I move off the revs go nuts. I'll rev it a bit, bring the clutch in, and then the revs will drop suddenly, then come back up to where they were but then continue to bounce around, from basically 0-1000 rpm. If I come off the power they continue to do so and will either stall or eventually settle down. However, this only seems to happen on the first start. If I let it run a bit, or then turn off and on again everything seems fine. Scanned with VCDS and no fault codes, and as I had already started it from cold couldn't replicate the issue to try reading the MVBs. Throttle pot angle reading seems pretty solid and doesn't move when I hold it open, so not really sure what's going on. Bit frustrating.
  8. Small update - I had the ABS pump refurbished last year through Stealth (BBA did the refurb) after I had some brake issues (details earlier in the thread). Now the ABS light has come back on and a scan turns up the same fault code as before, but a different valve. A bit frustrating as the pump was only refurbed a year ago. Vince is on holiday so waiting to hear back from Stealth about what the warranty arrangement with BBA was. Don't really want to shell out hundreds again so soon, and also if it has failed again so quickly what's the likelihood it will do so again? Not really sure what the alternatives are, but it does feel like this could be a weak point in general going forward. Also swapped the PCV for a new one, and noticed quite a lot of oil in the pipe, such that it was dripping out (and obviously leaking). Obviously this is what the thing is for so will always be some oil through there, but I sort of expected for a newly rebuilt engine it would be minimal. Anyone got any experience here?
  9. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Don't think they have been remade unfortunately, but found a guy in Germany selling a few on ebay: VW Golf 3 VR6 2.8/2.9 Corrado Sharan Crankcase Vent Valve 021129101A | eBay Must have got hold of the last old stock and is flogging them for outrageous prices. Looks like they've put them up again from when I bought them. It is frustrating as we need these parts and it's just profiteering, but what can you do? I checked the item against the one I had and it's a genuine AF part, got the AF stamp and part number matches, so it is at least a genuine part. I also adjusted the dashpot. I don't think it was out particularly, but I set it up as per the Bentley manual anyway. I think it gets stuck occasionally as when I first pulled the throttle cable, the cam didn't move - so that could be the cause of the stalling at overrun issue. Hopefully readjusting it and fiddling with it might cure it for a bit as it's another NLA part I understand. I wonder if you can take it off and recondition it?
  10. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Just to update this, I finally managed to switch the PCV valve for the new one and that appears to have fixed the problem. Idles OK and fault codes gone from VCDS (well apart from an ABS fault that has now appeared... it never stops! 😂)
  11. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Ah that's really helpful thanks. I ran the test and the throttle angle was reading 14.1∠° And when I revved and came off the throttle it went back to 14.1 and stayed there so I guess it means that's all fine from the pot side of things? Haven't had a chance to switch the PCV out yet to rule that out.
  12. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Ta, will have to get VCDS out again and have a look. I take it by TB pot, you are referring to potentiometer? The new development, is that the issue seems to have become slightly intermittent. Drove it twice over the weekend and the problem didn't seem to be there. But then it returned this morning, after it had idled fine for a minute or two.
  13. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Cheers all for the advice. First port of call is the PCV as that needs replacing anyway. I have sourced a replacement for an eye watering amount... to be honest I didn't really want to pay the money as it's basically profiteering, but I also didn't really find another solution and don't have too much time to devise an alternative. If that doesn't fix it then will start to cycle through the options above, general leaks (Although I don't have a gas torch and not sure the neighbours would be keen!) MAF, FPR, etc... Apologies, what's MVB?
  14. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Did a scan with VDCS and returned error code: 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation (10-10 Adaption Limit Not Reached - Intermittent) Now the only detail for code 00533 on Ross tech is 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation (Adaption Limit (Add) Exceeded) I am not sure what the difference is, but the possible symptoms on Ross Tech are air: Air Leak between Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Engine Injector(s) faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator faulty Throttle Body faulty Intake Air Filter dirty So could well be the busted PCV as we though. Only other one there that could be at fault is the FPR, as the others should all be pretty new/cleaned/refurbished.
  15. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Update to this, I have a suspicion it might be the PCV. I noticed mine seems to have gone as oil is leaking out the bottom of it, and could be letting in unmetered air which has messed up the idle settings. I also stumbled on this old thread which seems to have had a similar problem. Replaced PCV and FPR on VR6. What a difference. - Engine Bay - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) Naturally it's a NLA part of course... so will need to investigate alternatives.
  16. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Just tested and I've got 12.78 volts, so all seems good there. It had some good use yesterday so the battery should be fully charged, but starting it up the same thing is happening. Unfortunately my VCDS cable is at my parents house so I can't check that either. Don't know if the replacement ICV isn't quite right, although I don't see what would be different about it and the fact it worked perfectly for almost a month with regular drives suggests it should be fine.
  17. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    It was no more than a week so I'd hope the battery was still OK. Its a good strong Varta battery that's never been an issue before, so I don't know. I too used to have problems with the battery going flat when I used to use Halfords batteries, but since upgrading years ago it's never been a problem. Engine turns over strongly as well. Presumably the maintenance pack you have has to be connected to the mains?
  18. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    The poor idle has returned for some reason. It's exactly like it was when I was having issues after swapping the ICV. It's been fine for weeks, but the last couple of times I have started the car after not using it for a couple of days the revs have been hunting, and even stalling. But as soon as I start driving it sorts itself out. I'm a bit stumped. It's almost like the ECU has forgotten all the settings in between uses. Haven't disconnected the battery, or changed anything with the engine. It just spontaneously started again. I used to have the Ross-tech/Vag-com on an old laptop so I might see if I can find that and see if there are any fault codes outstanding. Anyone else got any ideas?
  19. Ah it's gone chap! Oh I certainly don't doubt that's how yours came from the factory, my working hypothesis is they swapped over the pump design at some point in the production run for the bigger style, or just used both interchangeably. Not a biggy either way. Anyway, had a good weekend on the car. Picked it up from Longlife on Sat morning with a new exhaust. Looks pretty good and the early indication is that the drone/boom is much improved! They put a bigger mid section and back box on it, but as a bonus they cleaned up and kept the old tailpipe I had from Infinity, which saved some pennies and more importantly had some sentimental value. Couldn't fault the service either. Not much to see as it looks pretty well the same as before, but that's what I wanted. And then I got to work sorting some plastic trim. The steering wheel surrounds has been rattling about for ages, and no wonder when I got it off all the screw housings were snapped off, as well as some tabs so it was just loosely sitting there. I've found this plastic repair product called Plastex, which seems to work quite well. It's not the neatest to use, but it holds strongly: Repaired the screw housing on the left, but the one on the right was unfortunately beyond repair as it was much flimsier. Also repaired all the prongs, which the product works well on. Seems as strong as new. Then put in some foam and neoprene tape on all the surfaces it contacts something else and put it all back together and no nice and solid with no rattles! Gradually getting them all... think it's just the C-pillars that need doing now. Also used the Plastex to repair the rear seatbelt cover that a garage broke. It's hard to tell after the repair, but basically all that was surrounded in red was broken out. All of that is new material. Then gave it a spray black and it's come out pretty well, despite me drilling the hole off centre! I am pretty pleased with the results considering it couldn't go back on the car before.
  20. Ah nice. I was really surprised the BBS are 15" - I thought from a distance they were 16s until I got close. Look good. They definitely look better than the Speedlines which look a bit puny at 15". Looks good anyway. What do you have it lowered on, it's got a good stance? The other Corrado in the main car park you saw was more than likely mine. Didn't see any others and I left quite late. I'd definitely go back, was a good day out.
  21. Popped along to the Scramble! on Saturday and saw quite a nice clean 16v in the pre-90s car park. Anyone on here's? Not sure what that colour is, but don't think it's that common. Good event overall, anyone else make it along?
  22. So I took it into Longlife for the guy to have a look and his assessment is the Cat is fine. The smell was attributed to oil burning off, and the system was covered in it. I assumed before I did the engine build that the smell was oil burning from the various leaks everywhere, so I think it is still all over the exhaust from that. Plus I do still have a small leak from somewhere around the sump. He reckoned you'd really know if the cat was broken as it'd be running horribly, plus it has just flown through the MOT on emissions. So on the one hand good to know, I can keep the OE cat and it's one less expense. However, I am still not sure why I am getting so much heat coming through into the cabin. The heat shield is all intact under there and I am pretty sure the trim around the gear level shouldn't be getting hot from it. I certainly don't remember it happening when I first had the car, I only started noticing it when the engine was really worn and tired before the rebuild. It's noticeable as well, like holing a freshly brewed mug of tea. Anyone else get this?
  23. The Loctite fix seems to have done the job for now, so that's something.
  24. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Yes indeed, thanks both! I think it was certainly a case of when you're in that despondent mood immediately after something going wrong, you need a clear impartial view from someone else, and a sit down with a brew. I agree about the Canada forum, used to use that quite a bit for many jobs. I don't think I came across RW1, apart from finding the odd historic post when I am searching for something, but always sad to hear of the passing of an old stalwart.
  25. oneohtwo

    ISV/IAC valve

    Yes that's done it. I thought it needed a drive to learn the values, and if I hadn't bashed the car in front trying to pull away, which was my own stupid fault, I may have been OK. Managed a short drive with a variety of speeds - difficult to follow the procedure in the wiki exactly around London, so had to do the throttle in 2nd and 3rd instead of 3rd or 4th, what with 40mph being the maximum around here, but I think it's all worked. Runs well, idle is absolutely fine. Drops straight to about 600 rpm and sits there solidly like a rock. Felt a bit better driving slowly in 1st. Sometimes used to bounce around a bit on the revs and feel jerky, but feels smoother. So success for the part! Just a shame I had to add a scrape to my bumper in the process, and now have deal with the neighbour...
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