oneohtwo

Ta! I Trying to put my own personal touch on things. Bit of a shitter of a day though... was time to start bleeding the brakes. Went to undo the rear brake bleed nipple, but it was so seized it sheared off. I knew everything was going a bit too smoothly... am in a big bind as well as we are moving house on Tuesday and the new place doesn't have a garage. Was always up against it time pressure wise so couldn't afford anything like this. If I had more time I could drill it out and get a new one, but realistically think the only option is to arrange a tow to a garage and get them to do it. Bit gutted.

That makes sense. Shame there isn't a dipstick or something to let you know the level... Nothing I can do about it in reality anyway. Can't physically get any more in and I wouldn't know how much more to safely put in anyway.

Yes, exactly. There's a little plastic cap on it that's fairly loose fitting: When I was tipping it up to get to the underside a little leaked out of there. Not loads mind.

Old topic, but I've had a similar issue as this chap and was after a second opinion. Just gone to change the gearbox oil as it was old, and some had leaked out when I was cleaning the gearbox case (out of the little plastic cap on the gear shifter housing - not sure if this is meant to happen??). Poured in about 1.5l of MT-90 (300ml left in second bottle by weight) until I noticed it dribbling out - pulled out the funnel but then a good steady trickle ran out for a few minutes without the funnel there. Question is I now have 1.5 l minus x ml that has dribbled out, so I don't know how much is in there. Car is ostensibly level - I checked with a spirit level and the gearbox seemed level, although have checked again and there is an almost imperceptible tilt forwards, 2 degrees maybe which feels like it is in the realms of tolerance for most "flat" surfaces. When I undid the fill plug nothing really came out - there was a slight run mark on the case when I came back to it but nothing major. Do I assume that there is near enough 2l (whatever old oil didn't drain out plus what I put in) in there because it wouldn't have drained out otherwise? I suppose the question is more to reassure my own mind as there's no realistic way I can get that gearbox perfectly level so not much I can do about it!

Thanks! It's actually the manifold powder coated. Was trying to replicate the classic crackle finish you see on most exotic Italian cars' cam covers and some classics, but felt grey suited VW more than black or some bright red. Had the logo and lettering cut out in aluminium and stuck on to make it look like cast. Annoyingly if you look closely there is a slight gap on some letters that I should have filled in but thought the powder would do it, which slightly mars the effect!

Got all the wire and clips ready to sort and had a shroud made for the new fans. My plan is to mount the resistors on a panel fixed to the side of the mount between the upper and lower hoses: Where I have taken the shroud around under the bottom of the radiator it rests on the radiator cross member (where the green tape is, which is a bit annoying. Too late to change now, and if I cut the bottom flange off I don't think the shroud will have enough stiffness. I can't see it being a problem, but it just feels like it should be kept clear like the original?

I am very, very close to having the re-build finished! So couple of pictures to round up things up a bit: Tidied up manifolds on. Slightly scratched the inner coating on the studs when I was wrestling them on, so I guess that coating won't last long. Ah well.. Got the new bit of heat shield on to smarten up the back of the bay: And something of a pièce de résistance, that makes the VR6, the upper manifold on: Been looking forward to getting that on for an absolute age. Feels like the engine is pretty well complete and on the home straight! Fitted all the ISV gubbins, throttle body and intake bits as well: My plan was to leave all the plastic trim off the top of the block, but I forgot how untidy the VR6 looks with all the ancillary bits, like the ISV and the coil pack, stuck on. So I think I will put the side trim on, and maybe the rear. Will see how it looks. Obviously will leave the plastic cover off with the manifold done up, and probably the front wire guide as well. I am now just waiting for a couple of hoses from Roose which should be arriving early next week to finish off the engine bay. Then I need to sort the slimline fans on the radiator - got a shroud sorted so should just be a case of hooking up the wiring, and then fit the B12s on the rear once it's off the axle stands again. After that it's just a case of crossing fingers and hoping it runs!

Yeah, hard to say - like you say it has a whiff of snake oil about it to me as well. The power increase claim doesn't make sense to me, maybe peak power is sustained longer under hard driving as the air coming in stays colder in theory, but how would it actually increase it? To be honest I left as I already had the gaskets and had fitted one. Didn't really want to wait any longer to get the rest of the engine back together, but thought I'd put it out there in case anyone else wants to give it a go.

There it is! That is pretty well buried, I can see the pin for it to attach to now. Didn't realise it actually slots into the hole in the chassis leg. It's all too far gone to get to now anyway so it will remain in the box of leftovers! Still nice to know where it goes.

Couldj ust be some stock photos and not the actual part? Although a 90 degree fitting might mean it could clip into the first plastic clip better. Couple of pics of it fitted: Annoyingly the plastic lug of the top pipe clip snapped off so had to cable tie everything together to keep in nice and secure.

Well the engine is pretty well all back together and it didn't turn up as needed anywhere. Spoke to Stealth again and they confirmed it is not a VW bolt, so is something someone has added at a later date. They've also never come across a bolt of that size in a VR6 in all the engines they've rebuilt So we have come to the conclusion that someone's shoved it in somewhere as a bit of a bodge and it isn't really necessary. It is just going to have to remain a mystery. Wish I could remember where it came from just for my own interest!

It's CCK068: HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com) Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.

So I bought a new Sachs clutch slave cylinder, went to fit it and inevitably the existing union bolt is seized in the cylinder and rounds off. No more work that day! Off comes the whole clutch line. Anyway, bought a Hel replacement which arrived today: As you'd expect all looks very smart, did a quick test fit and seems fine, so should be all systems go at the weekend.

Has anyone had any experience of these Therma-tec gaskets? CORRADO VR6 - Products (therma-tec.com) I've come across a bit about insulating gaskets, the phenolic type and whilst the idea seems sound the intake manifold is still sat on top of the block so can't entirely see it would make a lot of difference. Do the standard plastic type gaskets offer some thermal insulation anyway?

My least favourite thing in the entire world. You might be able to get a chisel in the slot you've cut and go with a hammer. But as you've already tried an impact driver it might not work. From there all I can think is to drill them out, which is what I tend to just do these days. Doesn't take too long and very rarely does anything else work I find. I have never had a seized bolt unseize with penetrating fluid. You might have some luck with those reverse thread extractors, but the ones I have found just have a drill fitting and the drill doesn't have enough torque - or you can't clamp it tight enough and it spins in the chuck. They should make them so a socket fits on them so you can get a good steady leverage by hand. Good luck!

Yes, heard the same about the aftermarket headers so would always try and avoid. My exhaust is already a bit droney and I'd like to sort that, so wouldn't wantto make it worse! Just couldn't work out the stock manifolds. Interesting info about Leistritz, thanks. Not heard of them before. Managed to fit the headers - my word that's a pain in the arse. Much swearing involved! My advice is to fit the OS one to the down pipes and torque it up first, then the NS one to the downpipes, and finally you can then hook them both onto the head.

Other way around on the resistors! 0.4 Ohm 75-100w 0.1 Ohm 50-75w I couldn't find a panel mount resistor at 0.4 Ohm, nearest available was 0.47 Ohm which I was going to go for, and rerun the calcs to double check the power. I think you may need a higher current rating on the wire to be safe - Fan speed 2 is at 14.7A and on Fan Speed 3 without the resistors it would be just over 16A, for the shared part of the circuit. I was going to just try and copy the sizes for the existing cables: 2.5 mm2 for fan speed 1(red/white) , 4.0 mm2 for fan speed 2 (black/red) and 6.0 mm2 for fan speed 3 (red/green) and ground. I found these: Tri Rated 6mm 53amp Automotive Cable (cablecuts.co.uk) Tri Rated 4mm 41amp Automotive Cable (cablecuts.co.uk) Tri Rated 2.5mm 30amp Automotive Cable (cablecuts.co.uk) Which I was going to use, only downside is they are not thinwall. This place: CABLE (altecautomotive.co.uk) also looked promising for thinwall but they didn't have the 2.5mm wire but I expect you could use 3.0mm instead. Everywhere else seemed to be selling full drums of 10m+ length! I was considering using the two holes in the slam panel for the plastic fan guard to mount the resister base two (resistors on the underside) as I didn't massively want to cut new holes in the bodywork. Or possibly my preferred is to have it fixed to the fan shroud coming out perpendicularly, at the the coolant pipe end. That way it's all together in one plug and play unit. What do you think?

To add to this I have found the data sheet for the Revotec/Comex fans and the current is listed as 7.2A approx, with max 8.1A: Revotec Instructions Template Based on that 1 fan has a resistance of about 1.5Ohms. I have measured it and it is more like 1.8 Ohms, but a lower resistance gives a worst case at the resistor so We'll work with 1.5. For Fan Speed 1 the circuit therefore looks like this: Which gives the following values for R1: P = 37.5 W, V = 3.9 V, I = 9.7 A R2: P = 9.4 W, V = .97 V, I = 9.7 A And for Fan Speed 2: R2: P = 20.4 W, V = 1.4 V, I = 14.3 A (I have run these through some circuit builder software to get the values, so the values should be accurate although I have rounded. I got lost trying to do it by hand...) So I think we just need a 75 W resistor for the R1 on the fan speed 1 circuit and 50 W for R2. Little bit less than initially thought, but should do the job.

Yes, exactly! I was sure it was down there somewhere but I've spent ages looking around and can't work it out either at all. Cant see anything for it to fix to. Oh well, may as well leave it off... bit of weight saving! 😆

Have had a double check and it's an M6 unfortunately. I was hopeful for a bit! The search continues... Also found a bit of black plastic trim that I had left in the scuttle tray. Can't see where it goes - searching for the part number returns a German ebay site that lists it as cable cover protection/wiring harness cover. No obvious place that I ca see it going and it's a weird shape: VW CORRADO RALLYE GOLF 2 GTI G60 16V ABDECKUNG KABEL SCHUTZ MOTORRAUM 536971615 | eBay I left it by the wiper motor so logic suggests it's from the drivers side somewhere.

Will do! I've been fiddling about with the exhaust manifolds. Found a product from Eastwood that purports to be a heat resistant coating for the inside of the tubes, and will help keep under bonnent temps down. Could just be snakeoil but some chap on Youtube tested it with one of his manifolds, leaving the other uncoated and it seemed to have an effect of reducing temps by 50-100 degrees. Not the most scientific, but seemed reasonable. Not expensive anyway, even if it all flakes off in a couple of weeks...! It's a faff to clean out the bores, but applying it isn't too bad. It comes with an extension nozzle you stick down the bores which is supposed to give a 360 spray, but instead it sort of splutters out into a big pool at the bottom and you have to roll it around. Then it leaks out the end. Easy enough with these small manifolds, but wouldn't fancy it on anything bigger you can't see down! Also ground off some of the casting seams inside, which might help things flow a bit better - they are rough as anything. One bonus of the coating does help smooth those out a bit! Had plenty of paint left over so sprayed the outside as well to cover up the run marks. Might keep the corrosion at bay for a bit... I've seen a few reports saying the stock manifolds are pretty good compared compared to the various stainless 6-2-1 manifolds knocking about the place, but they don't look especially conducive to good flow... rinsing them out with water just shows where the flow goes, the pipes from the farthest cylinders come in at almost 90 degrees to the main flow. Also they're not really merge evenly. Some pipes seem to merge almost immediately after exiting the head, into a bigger chamber. I don't know much about these things to be honest, but thought it of interest.

UPDATE: I got the size wrong! It is an M4 bolt, not 3mm diameter. As if that makes all the difference...😂 Dipstick isn't a bad shout, and it sounds like the sort of thing I'd quickly whip off and put to one side whilst doing other bits, but I've just dug it out of the parts pile, and I think the slot is too big. Thanks for looking, it's appreciated. It really has me baffled. Beginning to think it has just appeared out of nowhere. Speaking of which, here's another riddle. Ages ago I found a small oval washer with three holes in it just on the floor somewhere. Didn't recognise it so bagged it up for later. I have now discovered where it goes - it goes on the little bonnet striker pin on the slam panel. BUT I have only just taken that off last week, and there is already one on there. So where did the second one come from?

Good start, paint looks lovely! Must have taken some effort sanding all that down. When doing the engine rebuild look out for the chain tensioner - worth upgrading this to a Mk4 golf tensioner. better design and will last a lot longer.

Thanks! Fitted the fuel lines I got from Hel. They really did a top number - there was a bit of confusion over whether they could do a hoses for the VR6, initially saying they could, but then couldn't when I sent the originals over because they are the pre-formed into shapes. So instead they sent two lengths of hoses plus connectors for free to make up for it. Fitted them and the have all gone on OK, and look smart: Certainly an option if VW originals can't be sourced. The third clip attached to the intake mani will help keep them all neat and together as well. Also think I have sorted the stripped thread on the slave cylinder bolt hole. Used Loctite thread repair: Form-A-Thread® Stripped Thread Repair Kit - 4.8-ml. syringe form-a-thread stripped th: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools Seems to have worked and the bolt is good and tight in there. Seems like a useful product to have if anyone is in a similar situation. Remains to be seen how well it will torque up, but might not go full torque on it just in case. Otherwise, I don't think I have any other options - can't get in there to drill the thread out for helicoil.

Not really sure. I had a look over it and couldn't see anywhere obvious it could go. Maybe when I am connecting the hoses and throttle cable it might appear.