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oneohtwo

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Everything posted by oneohtwo

  1. Just on 2K aerosols, avoid HB Body C496 clear coat. I used this on my slam panel and radiator support, and it now looks awful. Initial finish was very good, but apparently it just didn't harden, and has reacted with all the dirty water that gets flicked up onto that area from inside the engine bay, so much so that the stains are now embedded into the clear coat. In one area it looks like cracked wax, and overall it has since orange pealed really badly. It dissolved as soon as it came in contact with a splash of petrol and was so soft there are more chips on the bit below the headlights and grill than before I repainted it. I think it may now be hardened, and I'll have to tackle all the problems in the summer but it's deeply frustrating. I wish I had seen the reviews online before I bought several cans of the stuff as I am not the only one that has had this issue.
  2. Yeah, I've no idea why the middle one is there. Somebody obviously put it it there at some point, and there's a hole for it. At least it means i have a spare though! It's an odd design though, I don't really know why the trim can't just clip to the metal.
  3. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Yes, this is exactly the problem. It makes the system very slack, and whilst it's a small rotation at the spindle, when translated over the length of the wiper arm it's quite a big movement. I have just about set my wipers up to avoid hitting with the pillar or scuttle, but it still gives over time. I don't think the fixing into the scuttle panel is very good either. It's just a plastic collar in the hole with a thin washer on the other side. There are only 4 small tangs on the actual spindle which don't get much bearing, so there's not a lot to prevent it moving. The drivers side isn't as bad as it's braced by the motor bracket, but the passenger side it's quite flimsy. Anyway, 3D printed test part is on order so fingers crossed this will work!
  4. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Had a quote back on the CNC machining and it's a lot better than the vacuum moulding. That should make a group buy more achievable I think, perhaps around the £20 a pair mark. So what I will do now is get a prototype printed as this isn't too much and see how it fits. Then if all good I will put up a group buy.
  5. Spent a bit of time over the weekend on the scuttle area. Took the wiper trims off and cleaned everything out: Also lucked out on ebay and chanced upon someone selling 4 unbroken white plastic clips that always snap off, so now I have a full set. Still managed to break one in the process of getting the trim back on, but at least I had a spare. Also the very middle clip doesn't actually seem to be used - there's no corresponding tab on the trim, so I guess that is also a spare? Definitely a technique to getting the trim on and off, have to carefully lift at the front then push backwards. The drivers side is the trickiest, don't think the fit is as good. Whist I had the trim off I moulded a little recess to allow the TT wiper arms to rotate, and then resprayed with the U-Pol plastic paints. Incidentally, really good paint. Easy to use and the finish is excellent. Smartens up that area of the car anyway:
  6. Slam panel looks lovely, did you paint it yourself? Interesting the Aqua blue looks a bit, well Aqua in those pics. Slight turquoise tint, which would make sense with a name like Aqua Blue. Mine always has a bit more of a purple tint. Maybe just the camera!
  7. Simple answer is to move into the garage! God, I wish I had that when rebuilding my engine, lots of light, plenty of space and I bet it's fully heated as well. Just noticed it looks like you've got a cover on the windscreen wiper motor?
  8. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Right, this is where I have got to so far: Initially I tried to see if I could replace the plastic bushes/bearings with off the shelf nylon flanged bushes, with a slightly smaller diameter than the ball joint. The idea being that with a bit of heat and a vice the bush would expand over the ball joint to grip it tightly and also expand into the hole in the link arm to lock into place. Had to cut them down substantially and it sort of worked but I wasn't massively happy with it, and you'd still need to use those metal clips to lock it into place. So I looked at developing a replacement for the original plastic insert and have modelled it in 3D CAD. I thought about 3D nylon printed initially but have dismissed this due to the rough surface finish, that would also be porous. Not ideal for a bearing surface. I am currently trying to get some quotes for CNC machining the part out of nylon, which should give a reasonable finish. However, the only way this is economical, due to machine set up, is with a group buy. Looking at Nylon due to its wearing and natural lubrication properties. At a push I'd guess the originals are the same. Further things that need consideration are with actually getting the part installed. Looking at the original I am fairly sure it is stamped/moulded in place onto the link arm. There're some indents on the link arm around the holes, and these can be seen imprinted on the back of the original bushes I have removed. Trying to push a new part in could be difficult, but there's a possibility I could make the flanges a bit smaller to make this easier. Also the bushes are slightly different at each end. at the motor end the bush has two lugs, which as far as I can see stop it rotating too much on the mount. However, I don't know if these are essential. I have also had a quote for a vacuum injection process that uses a silicon mould for small batches of up to about 20. This is obviously much cheaper than full injection moulding. However, it would be in Polyurethane not Nylon and I don't know how this would compare for this application. I know you get Polyurethane bushes for suspension and drive train parts, but as far as I am aware these contain metal bearing surfaces. The cost for this would potentially work out somewhere around £50 a bush if there were 10-20 takers. Although if we were to go with identical bushes at each end this would be more like £50 a pair, which could be a bit more palatable, but still pricey. So I think my plan is, get a couple of prototypes 3D printed just to test fit. Then, if it all works OK see if the CNC machining quotes come back at all reasonable, and propose a group buy. I think these should be better than the vacuum moulding to be honest, from CNC machine quotes I have had previously. Anyway, thoughts welcome!
  9. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    By chance yes, I'm currently working on some options for replacing the bushes so hopefully will get something that works. I will report back if successful so maybe watch this space!
  10. Yeah that looks like the FCM. The wiring diagram is a bit different for the VR. There's only 1 resistor in the fan motor there rather than two for the VR, so I don't think my setup would be quite right for it. Does it say what T1v and T1x are, I don't really recognise the symbols? If you can work out the resistance of the resistor in the motor I would have thought it would be quite straightforward to connect up to replicate the OEM. Presumably there's a three pin connector on the back of the motor?
  11. Ohh yes, sorry I missed you said G60. I don't know if the OEM fan motor is the same for the G60 as the VR, but it has a smaller radiator doesn't it, so I am guessing it is different? In which case the resistors I have used might not be appropriate. Not sure how it would work without the FCM as well. Likewise unsure about the manual override. Sorry, not the most helpful post, I am not too familiar with the G60 I'm afraid!
  12. All still appears to be functioning well. No issues thus far, fans always come on and temps are kept in check. I drove to Stealth on that hottest day of the year in the middle of the heatwave and they just about kept the water temp below 110 when driving slowly. There are a couple of things I would do slightly differently if I were to repeat: 1) Find a neater way to mount the resistors and plug mounting. The resistors are tucked down the side between the battery and headlight, but it doesn't look the neatest. And where I have the plug housing I can't get the battery out without removing the fan housing, which means removing the front end. Not ideal. The Varta batteries are slightly oversized for the tray so may not be an issue with a normal sized battery. 2) I'd possibly wire speed 1 through a single bigger resistor just to neaten up the wiring. Not a big issue either way though. I quite like this setup because it replicates the OEM exactly, and all 3 speeds work as per the original. Mounting the resistors is a bit of a pain though so it's not quite as simple as the Humble Mechanic setup that ABV posted, but with my car I would rather have both fans coming on for speed 1 on balance.
  13. Missed this before, that's absolutely gutting and a worst nightmare. It's definitely a fear I had living in London. Has there been any news?
  14. Yeah you're right, there isn't really any difference between it and a 40 year old car. I use the car on occasional weekends and trips away. It's not a daily commuter or shopping car and to go to the shops I can either walk or use public transport, but London is very well connected so this makes sense. But yeah, an annoying extra cost and also admin, especially if in a hurry - easy to forget to do and land yourself with a fine. But I can live with it and not sell the car! That's a relief. Interesting documentary, although felt it was somewhat lacking and potentially misleading in the bit about the hybrids. For instance there was no attempt to address why the hybrid's engines emitted more VOCs than the diesels and nor was there a direct comparison to the other petrol engine. (They only mentioned briefly that the petrol was also worse than the diesel). After all these are still ICEs that are being tested - they hybrids are obviously not emitting the VOCs from the electric motors, so what's the difference? Is it that they smaller engines working harder - and if so, is this likely to also be the case with other smaller non-hybrid cars. And they didn't offer a comparison for overall levels of pollutants: is the increase in VOCs offset by a massive reduction in other pollutants, nor did they say what the level of difference in the VOCs was? And then in real world conditions is there a difference over the length of a journey? The hybrid will in part be running on electric motors but the diesel won't so how does that affect things? I think it raises more questions than it answers. Not to say there aren't necessarily issues around these things. I believe I have read that plug in hybrids are particularly bad because nobody bothers to plug them in, so they are just thrashing about on the tiny range extender engine instead. But that's more user error. And the bit about battery life is spot on, there's no second hand market for these cars unless you can replace the battery; it's just pointless.
  15. As I say I don't necessarily oppose it or agree with that characterisation of Mr Khan generally, but it is a shame there's no room for people like us whose cars aren't yet 40 years old and historic but still represents more of a hobby or passion than a means of transport. However, looking into it a bit further I may have the wrong end of the stick. I can't quite confirm but it might be that you only pay the charge if you drive the car, not just how long it is in the ULEZ which would seem more reasonable, and probably an acceptable trade off.
  16. Is anyone else going to be affected by the probably expansion of the ULEZ in 2023 to cover the whole of Greater London? I have only just discovered the plans in place to expand it. I am on the fringe of it at the moment, but if (as seems likely) it goes ahead I'll be well inside. It will probably mean I have to sell the car as £4 grand a year isn't really justifiable or affordable, which is more than a bit gutting. I don't necessarily disagree with expanding the scheme, and the Corrado is always looking more of an anachronism day by day, but it's still a massive personal project and labour of love with huge sentimental value that it's a massive kick in the teeth. I've only really just got the engine where I want it as well, and still had plenty of plans. I've had it 12 years and if I am honest I couldn't ever see myself selling it, but would keep it alongside a more modern daily eventually (plus classic car collection... we can but dream!) The only other option as far as I can see is to tell the gf we have to move house!
  17. The default idle on VCDS should be 720/680 (it flicks between the two), this is the accurate value and reads higher than the dash, which would show 500-600 for this. Vince upped the idle on mine with the remap as well (he said they do it as standard as it runs a bit better) so I can check what mine reads on VCDS at the weekend if I get a chance and see how it compares.
  18. Yep, it's like the Albert Hall in there now! I think those speakers have probably been like since I had the car. But in true Corrado fashion, you finish one job and another, bigger job presents itself. After fitting the dash speakers I went to swap a broken fuel line clip from the underside of the car. Got some new plastic ones and tried to leaver the old one off. About half way through I realised I wasn't pulling the plastic clip off but the body shell around the metal pin had rusted and I was actually pulling the metal away. I stopped, but there is essentially now a small hole in the floor pan. Bah. I'll have to leave it for a minute, but it's not one I can solve. Will need a body shop to look at that.
  19. oneohtwo

    dash speakers

    This is what I have done for the driver's side in the end: I have enlarged the holes in the speaker tabs so the speaker grill tabs slot through them: Second pic shows where they slot though. Had to trim off the ends of one as it doesn't quite align with the tab, but this allows the speaker to sit centrally in the hole. The 4th tab is left untouched as it is well away from anything. Then on the reverse of the speaker I sanded down the speaker tabs so that they were the same height as the spacers on the speaker grill. The speaker then drops into the hole and the cover slots in over it and secures it in place: Not a great picture as it was dark by the time I was able to fit it as had spent all day decorating. Apparently house jobs are more important than Corrado jobs. News to me! Haven't quite got it properly aligned here, but the tabs slotted into place fine and it all works. I'm sure audiophiles won't love it as the speaker isn't very isolated from the surround, but it sounds fine to my ears, and I think it's quite a neat solution. Just need to do the passenger side now.
  20. Got around to repairing the tabs on the parcel shelf mounts and refitted with new speakers last weekend. The old speakers were absolutely shot: No wonder the sound quality was awful! Such a difference. I have the front dash replacements, which I need to fit, but I almost think it doesn't need them. It's also a really nice feeling knowing all the plastic trim is in good shape, fitted how it should be and secured with all the right screws. And not jammed into place and broken by some heavy handed spanner monkey. Also found there's a slot for the seatbelt covers to slot into. Nice to have those properly secure and not rattling around! Another small job completed, gradually ticking them off.
  21. Got around to repairing the tabs on the parcel shelf mounts and refitted with new speakers last weekend. The old speakers were absolutely shot: <img src="https://am3pap007files.storage.live.com/y4mKrtIW3IwnMvVqbvw8FpuU5d-eWuGvQVyQCRmg02-Dq0ykucaZ1MEujslOOO0RsvNEoyFaheCvMEwp_HzSNU67ThdLQsWksplVLdfOd9ZPjCxfDVQln9yLUBix9eRvFhjdHsq2V97bHo1f1N66tP36FGes5YeNBs7b9UXUZfPqGScrISohuJZGHVMlyo7jt0O?width=371&height=660&cropmode=none" width="371" height="660" /> No wonder the sound quality was awful! Such a difference. I have the front dash replacements, which I need to fit, but I almost think it doesn't need them. It's also a really nice feeling knowing all the plastic trim is in good shape, fitted how it should be and secured with all the right screws. And not jammed into place and broken by some heavy handed spanner monkey. Also found there's a slot for the seatbelt covers to slot into. Nice to have those properly secure and not rattling around! Another small job completed, gradually ticking them off.
  22. That's a really nice, neat job. Something I really need to do. Every time I open the bonnet the old stuff is shedding itself all over the engine. What did you use to remove the glue of the old stuff?
  23. Ready mixed G13 for me as well. Found there was too much confusion over whether you should use de-ionised, demineralised or distilled water, so gave up. Plus keeping a few bottles handy if you need to top up avoids having to use tap water.
  24. It's a good question. My thought with these is it is probably not a problem either way - yes the anti-seize will perhaps allow a bit more clamping force to be applied but this equally might be offset by the fact that the threads are now probably a bit grubby. Dirt and corrosion in there is going to mean they are not perfectly smooth like new. Additionally, I don't think these are critically torqued bolts, or torque to yield. Different with, say cylinder head bolts, but given these are pretty hefty bolts and grade 8.8 (if memory serves) it would need a lot of torque to get anywhere near yield. Certainly more than the 80Nm odd for these. So you may get some additional clamping force, but in this application - does it matter? Probably not. I imagine there is some tolerance in there from VW as well, acknowledging the fact that torque wrenches may not all be calibrated the same and conditions will vary. On balance I'd rather be able to get the bolt out than have it rust itself in. As for the clunk MJA, I wish I could offer something but I've got no idea. I know how frustrating it is when you have an ongoing, intermittent and seemingly unsolvable problem. It did sound like the brakes were the issue - is it definitely coming from the front? Nothing to do with the rear brakes/handbrake not releasing properly? I imagine you've had a look there already but wasn't sure from the thread if it was just the fronts you looked at.
  25. oneohtwo

    dash speakers

    Thanks, that would be helpful! My current thinking is to either remove 1 tab so it fits in the recess and use the grill to clamp the other three. Or remove two tabs and then expand the holes in the other two tabs to slot the grill lugs through, clamping it again.
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