aide

its so you can write 'HELP' on the pavement.

credit - yahoo answers.

yes it is if its running down the rear quarter seam, i've repaired rust in that position on mine, you'll be able to check it out from inside the boot as well.

looks nice. vr6 on a j reg though, must have had an engine transplant, or is it a private plate, what's on the log book?

as above they can be straightened easily enough and continue working even if there is a little eneveness, mine were/ are the same.

good show. couple of impressive items in the news section.

not what you want i don't think, but a picture saves a thousand words :)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]53949[/ATTACH]

realise its not the question you've asked, but i've cut some tweeter holes right next to the existing speakers in the plastic door pocket, hardly noticeable and almost OEM looking. no pics, but could nip out in the garage to get one if you wanted to consider it.

as above, don't do it. as well as filtration reasosn i'd vouch you'll actually lose power in some if not all the power band, drilling the box and removing the resonator tube allows induction pulses to escape, which is why it sounds great, personally i'd rather have those pulses reflected back into the induction tract to aid in cylinder charging.

no doubt more relevant to n/a applications, but no point losing them in f/i either.

welcome along :)

cheers for the mix list man

dance genre's... not a discussion i'll get into. 20 years ago you could figure it out by bpm, i was into progressive trance and Hi-nrg for years, then just plain old house, no idea what the equivalent is nowadys lol

powerfull stuff mate! will downloaded that for sure, you got a track listing?

feelin the cheesy piano transition to whhhhapppp whhhhhhappppp whoooooaaaappppp got an arrow in the knee dubstep :)

that gas fire could be vented via a chimney, but most likely via a balanced flue through the wall which supplies the fire and also vents it, similar to a gas boiler does.

before fitting an open fire or woodburner you need to know if you live in a smoke free zone, your council would be fit to tell you, and that then drives the options.

open fires/ wood burners either require a solid brick/ block chimney or a stainless flue liners that fit inside an existing chimney to line it, the stainless liners can be sectionalised or on a roll.... neither are cheap, expecially if you don't have a chimney to start with!

if you build a chimney you need it to clear your ridge line by a 1m+ off the top of my head, more if its near an openable window.

i'd go for a cosy real fire any day of the week, congrats on the purchase btw.

you either remove the plastrboard/ lathe & plaster and 75% cut and fill the joists with cavity insulation bats as Dragon Green has outlined, or you reline the entire space, either with insulation bats as before or with joists & rockwool, and then plasterboard over thus reducing space and headroom. AS DG says you must leave an air gap to reduce damp through condensation. Bear in mind you may need to extend wiring, at at 60yr old wiring will be well past its best.

blown insulation is typically used for spaces which can be filled completely, i.e. a brick/ block cavity, i've never filled a timber cavity using blown insuation.

Yeh no problem, PM me your address tonedef and i'll sort it today.

No worries over postage jay its only a few quid.

Got mine cheers Jay.

You've sent me a complete set though when I only paid for the front, are you missing one, happy to return or send on to others?

/\ oh right i didn't realise you could use mk4 calipers and carrier on just a bigger disc, liking the idea of that, take it you have to buy the conversion kit for the carrier/ disc then?

take the point about replacement parts being pricey, but for a weekend motor like mine i'd probably only need to change them in 10 years time.

extinguisher getting used at 0:55, at that stage the fire seemed to have taken hold, too little too late maybe, wonder if they disconnected the battery.

i carry a powder extinguisher for this very reason, and one of those seat belt/ window smasher hammer things, has to be worth the £25 outlay.

does it say on the you tube clip source that the manifold was unwrapped, pretty hard to determine from the video?

i think correct fitting and protection of anything surrounding is more important than heat wrapping as the wrap gets so hot anyway.

fair do's having an extinguisher handy, didn't help much though did it.

always sad to see someones pride and joy go up in flames though.

still the same doing what, lumpy, idling too quick/ slow?

welcome along, looks nice and tidy. like the radio, original? what is it?

Cheers for update Jay, look forward to posty arriving :)

if you're going to keep the valver i'd highly recommend this book, well worth the outlay. it explains the KR (and other) mechanical injection systems in good detail, providing context to a lot of stuff you read on the web.

http://books.google.co.uk/books/about/How_to_Tune_and_Modify_Bosch_Fuel_Inject.html?id=fVm0HYHJr4gC&redir_esc=y

its the idle adjustment screw, it allows air to bypass the throttle butterfly, from memory valvers idle at around 1100 when warming up then gradually settle to about 800rpm.

So got a little distracted by the holidays and a new Merc daily driver which i got in December to replace my old 250TD.

Since the last update I have managed to get the half leather recaro's fitted, i painted both the sub frames before fitting to stop rust but only took pics of the fabrication. These are only intended as a temporary upgrade until I can get the real deal, but am pleased with how they look. Bit of hassle getting the subframes fabricated, especially so these recaros sit at the same height as the original seats but enjoyed getting them sorted!

Also fitted the upgraded headlight loom bought of kur2y stuffing the relays inside a maplin box, also did the headlight switch fuse mod for peace of mind too.

:)

only use quality parts and make each loom like I'm fitting to my own car. I'm an aircraft Electrical Engineer/Technician and so have high standards.

just getting round to fitting mine and can vouch for the standards, excellent quality Zak cheers.

Exploring waterproofing options...

i'm using a box from maplins with a rubber grommit and some silicone, will use self almagamting tape too on the loom itself :)